Hi Dean,
Just read your post. We have a Jayco Journey DX Outback Poptop. The description of yours sound similar to our van.
Just checking, is your additional solar as foldup panels ie not fixed to the roof?
If they are foldup, what is the physical size and weight of the folded group of panels?
I am unfamiliar with all the electric stuff about solar, did you get an upgraded charging controller fitted to the van to utilise the extra solar?

Just read your post. We have a Jayco Journey DX Outback Poptop. The description of yours sound similar to our van.
Just checking, is your additional solar as foldup panels ie not fixed to the roof?
If they are foldup, what is the physical size and weight of the folded group of panels?
I am unfamiliar with all the electric stuff about solar, did you get an upgraded charging controller fitted to the van to utilise the extra solar?

Hey watsea...

In answer, I have two portable fold up type 200w solar panels (allegedly) that I used to use with the camper trailer. They measure 680mm x 780mm closed x 70mm.  They weigh 9.2kg's each. Not all that big and can be carried in the van easily.

I may later consider another 160w on roof but have shied away at this point as we have only had the van a couple of weeks and are yet to go away. I have been busy getting things right and adding my touch. The consideration of adding another 8kg's odd with another panel would add to the roof lift weight so haven't done so...yet.

What I have done is have fitted another 30amp MTTP solar regulator near the  batteries that will take 500w of panels, and an Anderson plug at the front attached to the external toolbox for ease of use.  The van already has the J35 B BMS fitted to handle the 240v input and distribute the 12v, but only has capacity for 320w of solar it seems. Being there is 160w already there with the roof panel, it does leave capacity for another 160w...maybe another roof panel we'll see.

I have connected the new MPPT directly to the batteries, I have read that if you attach the negative input via the existing BMS it may read the additional input through the ""JControl" monitor...will try that out later.  The two regulators will be run together, they just need to "see" each other so that I don't end up with under charged or potentially over charged batteries. There are ways in setting up to ensure they do "see" each other, but using this setup also means monitoring the system which is no big deal for me as I check the battery charge morning and evening anyway.

In my van the batteries are fitted under the dinette not under the bed at the front where I have seen some. There is very little room left with the existing BMS and now 2 x 140w AGM batteries. (The wheel mudguards are in this area as well)  I have had to utlise the drawer that is under the dinette adjacent to the fridge to fit the other MPPT, I left a bit of free cable so I can just pull the drawer open to see what that MPPT is doing.

As far as the solar panels go, I removed the PWM type controllers that came fitted to the panels, they are in the wrong place anyway, merely there for convenience for some users. I have fitted MC4 connectors with an extra cable between so I can run just run one panel, or both in parallel or series depending on what I want. I usually run the panels in series as it does give a better result imo...especially if the panel are 20 odd metres away in sunlight..I utilise 8awg cabling to achieve the least voltage drop.

My calculations did tell me that the 1 x 160w panel and the 1 x 100amp battery that came standard would be fine for most users for a day or two off grid for lights & TV or radio while running the fridge and water heater on gas. I may run my extra portable freezer outside from time to time which will need additional capacity, as well as I will be fitting an inverter.

I had a 1500w inverter in the camper which was great to run the coffee machine or hair dryer or what ever, with the above panel set up.  I also ran a 60L fridge and a 45L freezer and never ran out of power. ( Though I carry a generator just in case) This time around I am going to fit at least a 2500w inverter, as one day I'd like to be able to run the air conditioning off grid if need be without using the generator. (I'd need at least double the solar that I have now to do that).

Trust this assists...

Tvans are designed to be set up by 'lazy' people. Personally I think minimising such tasks well worthwhile. A Tvan will go just about anywhere the vehicle towing it can go. We can 'set up' in 30 seconds, & often do. There are a variety of extra awnings all increase the weight carried & the setup/pack up time. We are minimalists in that respect & leave most of the awning options we have at home & just use a single 4wd type awning. Three things make the Tvan what it is. A basic design which is hard to beat for convenience, a solid build which takes the punishment & keeps taking it but most of all it's long travel Asymetric suspension - it's the best in the business on off road campers.

They are not cheap, but they hold their price exceptionally well. As a rule of thumb used ones sell for much the same as they cost when new. In my view the older ones are better, only because the newer ones come with so many extra bells & whistles that the weight has increased. Off road towed weight is the enemy. Ours (2010 Mk 2) in fully stocked travel mode (we trqvel full time) weighs in at around 1200kg with a tow ball weight of 110kg. Some later models can increase towball weight to well above double that.

-- Edited by Cuppa on Saturday 10th of September 2022 07:50:31 PM

We explored much of Aust with a Trakmaster Kimberley offroad poptop caravan. It only measured 14 feet inside length but we lived quite adequately in it full time for 3 years, then for lengthy periods subsequently, totalling some 9 years of van life. Towed it with Landrover Defender. We carried a tent and camping gear (gas stove, Chescold fridge etc) and at times left van in storage and used tent for places we couldn't tow e.g. Simpson Desert, or didn't want the hassle of towing e.g Cape York. The van would have stood up to it, but The Driver didn't want to tackle things like the OTL Track with van on. 

We didn't have a bathroom on board - we were younger then, and didn't want to "waste" the potable water we carried in the van. Made do with night bucket, solar heated shower bag and a tarp that could be rigged for privacy, etc. Friend has a 16 foot Kimberley with en suite that would go all the places we took our van. 

Trakmaster vans were very solidly built and used ones do become available, although sometimes only by word of mouth amongst Trakmaster Club members. 

Whatever you finally decide on, I think having a fridge that is compressor driven, 12v or 12/240v is a must - avoid 3 way ones. Another useful feature of our rig was having Defender wheels on the van when it was built. That meant the same spares fitted both van and tow vehicle. When we went places like the Simpson, could put van spare up on roof rack and thus have 2 spare tyres.

I would strongly counsel caution in terms of equipment and "bling". The less weight and length (and height) of your rig, the more places are accessible. 

A friend recently considered buying a hybrid and we looked at various ones available. Expensive, heavy, mostly built in China. Looked good from the outside though.

We have gone for a No tow option via a slide on on a small car licensed truck that still allows us to occasionally seperate our accommodation from our vehicle. We find we dont take it off much whilst travelling as we like moving on not camping in one spot for extended periods and can get to supermarkets, out of the way attractions and the like as a complete unit.  Just an alternative thought.

Total package new would cost about the same as a friends new landcruiser tow vehicle. We purchased the slide on near new secondhand and the truck brand new 18 months ago and are still under $90,000 with mods to both.