to grease or not to grease level riders / weight distribution hitches
shanem said
06:40 PM Jan 30, 2020
hey chappies,
I have been told that I should not grease my level rider bars as that simply collects dirt. also told not to grease the towball cup. opinions please would be welcome especially if authoritative - that is, supported by logic or other convincing stuff, not only what you think or do.
I have been told that I should not grease my level rider bars as that simply collects dirt. also told not to grease the towball cup. opinions please would be welcome especially if authoritative - that is, supported by logic or other convincing stuff, not only what you think or do.
be safe out there.
shane
I prefer to use clean section of plastic bags, a square wrapped over the ball, no grease or dirt leaving me to stay clean.
I not a user of bars but when I did a quick spray of silicone spray did the trick stopping then from squeaking.
So plastic bag is my trick.
Bobdown said
02:36 PM Jan 31, 2020
Hi Shanem,
I lightly grease the tow ball and the WDH with bearing grease. The end of the WDH bars were being scored by the movement of the bars when turning, as it was metal on metal.
A small amount of grease on the ends of the bar, top and bottom and a smear in the socket stopped the noise and the scraping marks.
Tow ball a smear as well, they grease the turntables of semi-trailers for a reason.
If only used lightly, you will only collect a small amount of dust around the edges, when you do a bit of gravel road driving, then just wipe off with a rag.
I probably only grease twice on a long trip, once when I leave home and then again about the halfway mark.
Cheers Bob
shanem said
06:21 PM Jan 31, 2020
thanks guys. shane.
Hylife said
10:15 PM Jan 31, 2020
Not grease!
That's like running your engine with no oil.
Of course you should grease them.
Anything metal to metal needs grease or it wears and grinds and makes all sorts of horrible noises.
Light grease on the ball or pin depending on your hitch type.
Back when I used to use level rides I always rubbed a greasy finger on the hitch part and the underside of the bars where the ring would slide on.
Bit like geriatric love making, it's no fun rubbing dry rods and holes together.
Just carry a box of tissues in the back to wipe them down when the journey is done.
shanem said
07:25 PM Feb 3, 2020
again, thanks
Brenda and Alan said
09:17 PM Feb 3, 2020
Definitely do not lubricate. Take a look at the Alko friction ball couplings on a lot of European vans. They are designed to reduce sway. How do you think they would work if you greased them. The added friction from a dry (non lubricated) ball coupling may be the difference between stability an swaying at your chosen tow speed.
Alan
blaze said
10:13 PM Feb 3, 2020
Brenda and Alan wrote:
Definitely do not lubricate. Take a look at the Alko friction ball couplings on a lot of European vans. They are designed to reduce sway. How do you think they would work if you greased them. The added friction from a dry (non lubricated) ball coupling may be the difference between stability an swaying at your chosen tow speed.
Alan
I am also a no grease, if ya worried you can repace them every couple of years fr a few hundred dollars
cheeers
blaze
Phillipn said
11:42 PM Feb 3, 2020
blaze wrote:
Brenda and Alan wrote:
Definitely do not lubricate. Take a look at the Alko friction ball couplings on a lot of European vans. They are designed to reduce sway. How do you think they would work if you greased them. The added friction from a dry (non lubricated) ball coupling may be the difference between stability an swaying at your chosen tow speed.
Alan
I am also a no grease, if ya worried you can repace them every couple of years fr a few hundred dollars
cheeers
blaze
I have old disc brake pads cut to size which stops the metal to metal noise and they work as anti sway control devices.
Lyndon hitch now have the same idea on their new anti sway hitches.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:09 AM Feb 4, 2020
In the days when we towed race horses in our horse float . We put a small piece of Teflon in upper cup . Replaced every 6 months or so . A dry type lube is best .
shanem said
05:16 PM Feb 4, 2020
umh?! what to do? think I will experiment and see how it goes. again, thanks guys.
blissonwheels said
06:24 PM Feb 4, 2020
Gooday,
We have a spray can of Lanolin Based lubricant OZSPRAY which is fantastic or INOX which h does the same job, just put a light spray on the Trunions and the Ball.
Hylife said
10:07 PM Feb 7, 2020
Brenda and Alan wrote:
Definitely do not lubricate. Take a look at the Alko friction ball couplings on a lot of European vans. They are designed to reduce sway. How do you think they would work if you greased them. The added friction from a dry (non lubricated) ball coupling may be the difference between stability an swaying at your chosen tow speed.
Alan
But he was not asking about friction couplings, he asked about level rides.
Even the manufacturers state on the packaging instructions to grease them.
Greg 1 said
11:03 AM Feb 8, 2020
Have always greased them with a very light smear. Only dust that collects is at the edges.
hey chappies,
I have been told that I should not grease my level rider bars as that simply collects dirt. also told not to grease the towball cup. opinions please would be welcome especially if authoritative - that is, supported by logic or other convincing stuff, not only what you think or do.
be safe out there.
shane
I prefer to use clean section of plastic bags, a square wrapped over the ball, no grease or dirt leaving me to stay clean.
I not a user of bars but when I did a quick spray of silicone spray did the trick stopping then from squeaking.
So plastic bag is my trick.
I lightly grease the tow ball and the WDH with bearing grease. The end of the WDH bars were being scored by the movement of the bars when turning, as it was metal on metal.
A small amount of grease on the ends of the bar, top and bottom and a smear in the socket stopped the noise and the scraping marks.
Tow ball a smear as well, they grease the turntables of semi-trailers for a reason.
If only used lightly, you will only collect a small amount of dust around the edges, when you do a bit of gravel road driving, then just wipe off with a rag.
I probably only grease twice on a long trip, once when I leave home and then again about the halfway mark.
Cheers Bob
That's like running your engine with no oil.
Of course you should grease them.
Anything metal to metal needs grease or it wears and grinds and makes all sorts of horrible noises.
Light grease on the ball or pin depending on your hitch type.
Back when I used to use level rides I always rubbed a greasy finger on the hitch part and the underside of the bars where the ring would slide on.
Bit like geriatric love making, it's no fun rubbing dry rods and holes together.
Just carry a box of tissues in the back to wipe them down when the journey is done.
Definitely do not lubricate. Take a look at the Alko friction ball couplings on a lot of European vans. They are designed to reduce sway. How do you think they would work if you greased them. The added friction from a dry (non lubricated) ball coupling may be the difference between stability an swaying at your chosen tow speed.
Alan
I am also a no grease, if ya worried you can repace them every couple of years fr a few hundred dollars
cheeers
blaze
I have old disc brake pads cut to size which stops the metal to metal noise and they work as anti sway control devices.
Lyndon hitch now have the same idea on their new anti sway hitches.
Gooday,
We have a spray can of Lanolin Based lubricant OZSPRAY which is fantastic or INOX which h does the same job, just put a light spray on the Trunions and the Ball.
But he was not asking about friction couplings, he asked about level rides.
Even the manufacturers state on the packaging instructions to grease them.