I have a 2005 Nissan Patrol with 4.2td motor (original hubs), towing a 2.5 tonne dual axle caravan.
What are the experts thoughts on using low range to take off when Ive been forced to stop on a steep hill. Not talking about long distance driving in low range, just using it to take off on hills then back to normal driving
Wanda said
08:36 AM Apr 6, 2022
If you are only talking a few metres(10-20mts) it should be fine with that make and year of vehicle, assuming you are talking about bitumen road surfaces!
Cheers
Ian
bratboy said
09:45 AM Apr 6, 2022
Can't see a problem . I had a MN Triton and they were notorious for being high geared and had dodgy clutches . I used to use low range to take of almost all the time with the van on .
bruceg said
10:26 AM Apr 6, 2022
My tow tug restricts range changing to below 25kph, but with a really heavy load I'd want to do it around 15kph, if I went that route. I sometimes use low range for tight manouvering, at very low speeds in tight caravan park sites, but I don't need it for take off.
But I don't use low range for hill starts or heavy load take offs, instead I got the engine management computer remapped to give more torque at lower revs which also works fine across all the gears resulting in smoother and much easier towing. Now at 95kph, which in my tug is 1800RPM in top gear, there is now 100% of the factory set max torque available if needed, with another 15% above factory available with a flick down a gear.
The sages who say all 'standard' tow vehicles should tow at or below 90kph are more-or-less correct for the engine torque settings comming out of the factory, but very wrong for a remap to a proper towing profile. At 90kph I loose lots of speed in a climb, but starting in at 95kph (the remap 'sweet' spot) often allows remaing in top gear. Have a look at some of the remap sites like Berrima Diesel, etc.
This type of remap will use more fuel when NOT towing, but greatly reduces towing strain, wear and tear, etc by getting all the hard work done quickly and easily then using the momentum gained along with the extra low down oomph to reduce gear changes at speed. Many modern remaps provide push button selection of factory, economy and tow maps so the best of all worlds are just a click away.
At around $1500 its not cheap, but the changes to the driving experience are worth every cent. I towed before and after the remap and the difference is enormous. Easy start off, effortless cruising on the flat and confidence when climing. Anything that reduces stress while towing is a GOOD THING. Just my 2c.
bye.
Keith P said
05:58 PM Apr 6, 2022
I did this pretty much all the time in my 97 GQ Patrol diesel...but only where the clutch was likely to take a bit of a hiding with van ...ie ..uphill...reversing onto sites...anywhere that I could to lengthen clutch life. After all...the clutch can be the most abused and ill treated component in a manual dive line... The trick is to get from low range first or second into high range first without really polishing the gear set teeth....took a bit of practice .....but I got it every time....and my clutch thanked me for it every time I reckon.
That truck is now gone ...and I fondly believe that I will never own another one like it. The bloke who bought it is wrapped....and I hope it will give him as good service as it gave me.
Cheers Keith
deverall11 said
06:28 PM Apr 6, 2022
shakey55 wrote:
I have a 2005 Nissan Patrol with 4.2td motor (original hubs), towing a 2.5 tonne dual axle caravan.
What are the experts thoughts on using low range to take off when Ive been forced to stop on a steep hill. Not talking about long distance driving in low range, just using it to take off on hills then back to normal driving
Wrong place to ask that question IMHO. A Nissan forum would have more real information.
landy said
09:22 PM Apr 6, 2022
I sometimes do it on steep take offs. I normally go first and second in low range and then double the clutch from second low range to second high range but this will depend on the spread of gear ratios on your vehicle. Landy
Greg 1 said
11:03 PM Apr 6, 2022
Keep in mind that driving more than a few metres in 4wd on bitumen can cause transmission windup and irreparable damage to the whole driveline unless you have a centre diff like a Range Rover.
Really not recommended.
rgren2 said
03:11 AM Apr 7, 2022
Greg 1 wrote:
Keep in mind that driving more than a few metres in 4wd on bitumen can cause transmission windup and irreparable damage to the whole driveline unless you have a centre diff like a Range Rover. Really not recommended.
Or you have your hubs unlocked.
Peter_n_Margaret said
08:14 AM Apr 7, 2022
Some are tougher than others.
I would happily drive the OKA around the block in 4WD, high or low range. I reckon a Nissan Patrol would be fine too.
The wind-up can be relieved by reversing a few metres.
Cheers,
Peter
Onedodger said
10:31 AM Apr 7, 2022
Most 4.2 Patrols have auto hubs on the front and will engage each time 4wd is activated and movement is initiated, this can quickly cause wind up if a turn is made. On my GU Patrol I changed the hubs to Aisin hubs a simple swap over . However this meant that if I needed 4wd then the hubs had to be locked manually. But when unlocked allowed me to reverse my van into tight spots at very slow pace. It also helped when taking off when towing up a steep incline allowing the use of low range until the vehicle get up the slope then shift to high range.
Whenarewethere said
11:58 AM Apr 7, 2022
Greg 1 wrote:
Keep in mind that driving more than a few metres in 4wd on bitumen can cause transmission windup and irreparable damage to the whole driveline unless you have a centre diff like a Range Rover. Really not recommended.
& they have auto transmission so one doesn't have these tedious issues.
Cupie said
12:34 PM Apr 9, 2022
For the last 20+ years I have been using 4WD Low range in my GQ Patrol to reverse my 2.4ton van into its parking spot beside the house with no troubles.
I start by reversing on about 10M of bitumen in 2WD, over the angled gutter & then turn about 90degrees to reverse up a slight grassy incline, this is where I engage 4WD. This involves a bit of both grass & bitumen & trying not to ride the clutch.
The last section is about 16m of grass that usually involves a bit of back & forth, mostly on grass in 4WD, until the van is correctly positioned. Sometimes it involves a final mostly straight 4WD push with the front wheels back on the bitumen for a bit.
I adopted this method after almost burning out a clutch reversing (& slipping the clutch) the van down beside a Relo's house at Castlemaine on our first long trip. Nothing worse than that smell of a burning clutch.
KJB said
12:49 PM Apr 9, 2022
Cupie wrote:
For the last 20+ years I have been using 4WD Low range in my GQ Patrol to reverse my 2.4ton van into its parking spot beside the house with no troubles.
I start by reversing on about 10M of bitumen in 2WD, over the angled gutter & then turn about 90degrees to reverse up a slight grassy incline, this is where I engage 4WD. This involves a bit of both grass & bitumen & trying not to ride the clutch.
The last section is about 16m of grass that usually involves a bit of back & forth, mostly on grass in 4WD, until the van is correctly positioned. Sometimes it involves a final mostly straight 4WD push with the front wheels back on the bitumen for a bit.
I adopted this method after almost burning out a clutch reversing (& slipping the clutch) the van down beside a Relo's house at Castlemaine on our first long trip. Nothing worse than that smell of a burning clutch.
I am like you - "4WD Low Range" is there to be used - it is not a decoration....... KB
landy said
10:58 PM Apr 9, 2022
KJB wrote:
Cupie wrote:
For the last 20+ years I have been using 4WD Low range in my GQ Patrol to reverse my 2.4ton van into its parking spot beside the house with no troubles.
I start by reversing on about 10M of bitumen in 2WD, over the angled gutter & then turn about 90degrees to reverse up a slight grassy incline, this is where I engage 4WD. This involves a bit of both grass & bitumen & trying not to ride the clutch.
The last section is about 16m of grass that usually involves a bit of back & forth, mostly on grass in 4WD, until the van is correctly positioned. Sometimes it involves a final mostly straight 4WD push with the front wheels back on the bitumen for a bit.
I adopted this method after almost burning out a clutch reversing (& slipping the clutch) the van down beside a Relo's house at Castlemaine on our first long trip. Nothing worse than that smell of a burning clutch.
I am like you - "4WD Low Range" is there to be used - it is not a decoration....... KB
I have a 2005 Nissan Patrol with 4.2td motor (original hubs), towing a 2.5 tonne dual axle caravan.
What are the experts thoughts on using low range to take off when Ive been forced to stop on a steep hill. Not talking about long distance driving in low range, just using it to take off on hills then back to normal driving
Cheers
Ian
My tow tug restricts range changing to below 25kph, but with a really heavy load I'd want to do it around 15kph, if I went that route. I sometimes use low range for tight manouvering, at very low speeds in tight caravan park sites, but I don't need it for take off.
But I don't use low range for hill starts or heavy load take offs, instead I got the engine management computer remapped to give more torque at lower revs which also works fine across all the gears resulting in smoother and much easier towing. Now at 95kph, which in my tug is 1800RPM in top gear, there is now 100% of the factory set max torque available if needed, with another 15% above factory available with a flick down a gear.
The sages who say all 'standard' tow vehicles should tow at or below 90kph are more-or-less correct for the engine torque settings comming out of the factory, but very wrong for a remap to a proper towing profile. At 90kph I loose lots of speed in a climb, but starting in at 95kph (the remap 'sweet' spot) often allows remaing in top gear. Have a look at some of the remap sites like Berrima Diesel, etc.
This type of remap will use more fuel when NOT towing, but greatly reduces towing strain, wear and tear, etc by getting all the hard work done quickly and easily then using the momentum gained along with the extra low down oomph to reduce gear changes at speed. Many modern remaps provide push button selection of factory, economy and tow maps so the best of all worlds are just a click away.
At around $1500 its not cheap, but the changes to the driving experience are worth every cent. I towed before and after the remap and the difference is enormous. Easy start off, effortless cruising on the flat and confidence when climing. Anything that reduces stress while towing is a GOOD THING. Just my 2c.
bye.
That truck is now gone ...and I fondly believe that I will never own another one like it. The bloke who bought it is wrapped....and I hope it will give him as good service as it gave me.
Cheers Keith
Wrong place to ask that question IMHO. A Nissan forum would have more real information.
but this will depend on the spread of gear ratios on your vehicle.
Landy
Or you have your hubs unlocked.
I would happily drive the OKA around the block in 4WD, high or low range. I reckon a Nissan Patrol would be fine too.
The wind-up can be relieved by reversing a few metres.
Cheers,
Peter
Most 4.2 Patrols have auto hubs on the front and will engage each time 4wd is activated and movement is initiated, this can quickly cause wind up if a turn is made. On my GU Patrol I changed the hubs to Aisin hubs a simple swap over . However this meant that if I needed 4wd then the hubs had to be locked manually. But when unlocked allowed me to reverse my van into tight spots at very slow pace. It also helped when taking off when towing up a steep incline allowing the use of low range until the vehicle get up the slope then shift to high range.
& they have auto transmission so one doesn't have these tedious issues.
For the last 20+ years I have been using 4WD Low range in my GQ Patrol to reverse my 2.4ton van into its parking spot beside the house with no troubles.
I start by reversing on about 10M of bitumen in 2WD, over the angled gutter & then turn about 90degrees to reverse up a slight grassy incline, this is where I engage 4WD. This involves a bit of both grass & bitumen & trying not to ride the clutch.
The last section is about 16m of grass that usually involves a bit of back & forth, mostly on grass in 4WD, until the van is correctly positioned. Sometimes it involves a final mostly straight 4WD push with the front wheels back on the bitumen for a bit.
I adopted this method after almost burning out a clutch reversing (& slipping the clutch) the van down beside a Relo's house at Castlemaine on our first long trip. Nothing worse than that smell of a burning clutch.
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