We have an older model Thetford Cassette Toilet, C402
The red light which lets us know the cassette is nearing full is not operating.
I did contact Thetford but became even more confused.
They did however instruct me to take a magnet and hold it over the reed switch, if there is no pull then the problem with the light is the reed switch.
I have looked online and the reed switch for this model does not appear to have anyway of connecting the red wires.
I tried to gently pull the two red wires from the old switch, didn't budge.
I have exhausted my search of You Tube and Google, absolutely nothing on replacing this reed switch of this model.
Maybe I am missing something that is hopefully obvious to you more experienced people.
If I had to cut and rejoin the two red wires it would be rather tricky given the area to work in; that's if you can get a red switch with two red wires connected to it.
I have included two photos of the C402 reed switch.
Not much help, but just my thoughts. We have had a Thetford cassette toilet in the cvan for 12yrs. The reed switch light stopped working 10 yrs ago.
More trouble than its worth to try to fix it.
You will soon be able to tell when you need to empty it.
Regards,
Ian
Scubadoo said
09:39 PM Feb 9, 2024
Ditto
Our now 14 year old C400 is in daily use. I have never seen any LED operate. We don't ever let is get that full. The tilt switch may or may not work? Never tested. I must check one day.
Possum3 said
10:46 PM Feb 9, 2024
Silly question but have you ensured that the "Float" inside canister is not jammed in down position.
I believe there is a blade fuse where red wires are, change that fuse even if it looks OK. Give area a liberal dosing of WD40 to eliminate any moisture in fuse aperture.
As Nomadz said empty often, don't wait until "Full" and Warning light actuated.
gypsy2600 said
06:20 AM Feb 10, 2024
Hi,
Nope, not a silly question.
I cleaned the cassette, checked the float by filling the cassette with water.
All good.
Will try changing the fuse and giving the area a spray with WD40, NOTHING TO LOSE.
Thank You.
Possum3 said
07:34 AM Feb 10, 2024
gypsy2600 wrote:
I cleaned the cassette, checked the float by filling the cassette with water.
All good.
Did you "Physically" look at float by unscrewing the top off the cassette? (Dinner plate sized portal)
gypsy2600 said
09:20 AM Feb 10, 2024
Hi,
I sure did.
Noticed the removal of the dinner plate on a You Tube Video.
Cheers
Cupie said
11:19 AM Feb 10, 2024
As has been mentioned previously, I never let the cassette fill to the stage where the light might come on. But I must admit that late one night several years ago I was advised that there was a strange light on the toilet.
About 15 years ago when I used to rely on the light, it failed. In my case i think that it was because I was too vigorous in shaking the cassette when cleaning after emptying it. The float pendulum had 'jumped' over a ridge of plastic that was supposed to restrict its movement thus preventing its operation. To fix it I just gently bent the arm a bit & levered it back into the correct position. Perhaps it is still working.
Is it not possible to cut the wires further back at an accessible point and solder (or crimp join) & shrink wrap longer pieces to make it easier to refit the new switch? Often switches come without wires connected. In these cases connection is made by just removing the insulation & pushing the bare wire into the hole where a couple of sharp scissor like fingers grab it. If the switch comes with wires already connected is it possible just to lengthen them for connection at a more accessible point in the wiring harness?
gypsy2600 said
01:44 PM Feb 10, 2024
Hi,
That was one of the issues I have, the supposed replacement reed switch has no wires connected.
The original one has two red wires as shown in the photo, but they don't appear to come out, maybe they are siezed/rusted in there.
There were a couple of places where you can buy the reed switch but whoever is answering my question re the red wires never addresses this issue just confirming its the right switch.
As someone person mentioned earlier, spray with WD40, spray the fuse(have replaced with a new one) and it may loosen up the red wiring which may or may not come out.
Cheers
Cupie said
02:40 PM Feb 10, 2024
gypsy2600 wrote:
Hi,
That was one of the issues I have, the supposed replacement reed switch has no wires connected.
The original one has two red wires as shown in the photo, but they don't appear to come out, maybe they are siezed/rusted in there.
There were a couple of places where you can buy the reed switch but whoever is answering my question re the red wires never addresses this issue just confirming its the right switch.
As someone person mentioned earlier, spray with WD40, spray the fuse(have replaced with a new one) and it may loosen up the red wiring which may or may not come out.
Cheers
It is a common practice to manufacture devices with the sorts of connectors that just require the stripped or even not stripped wire into the hole & the 'scissors' cut through the insulation or just into the bared wire, whatever the case is. Makes it easier for manufacture/assembly.
Many of these don't allow you to withdraw the wire but others have a small release 'lever'.
When I encounter these sorts of connectors I always remove the insulation on the replacement component just to be sure.
Sometimes you can withdraw the old wires using brute strength. Might work or it might just damage the connector ruining the component.
gypsy2600 said
09:44 AM Feb 11, 2024
Hi,
I did think of that but decided not to.
I may have to go to plan Z; ha ha.
Cheers
Ian G said
01:50 PM Feb 11, 2024
Why don't you just buy another reed switch, it may have the wires permanently attached and you have to find the other end to connect/ disconnect.
Possum3 said
01:53 PM Feb 11, 2024
Thetford in Brittain very good at answering queries through their on-line chat-bot, also very keen parts pricing and great delivery (outperforms local suppliers).
gypsy2600 said
02:34 PM Feb 11, 2024
Hi,
That is the main issue, they don't have any wiring.
I can't tell by the photos of the switch if it is possible to connect my wires to it, even if I have to extend the wiring slightly.
I have e mailed two separate suppliers and all I get is that the switch they are selling is the correct one, nothing about my wiring question.
Hi,
We have an older model Thetford Cassette Toilet, C402
The red light which lets us know the cassette is nearing full is not operating.
I did contact Thetford but became even more confused.
They did however instruct me to take a magnet and hold it over the reed switch, if there is no pull then the problem with the light is the reed switch.
I have looked online and the reed switch for this model does not appear to have anyway of connecting the red wires.
I tried to gently pull the two red wires from the old switch, didn't budge.
I have exhausted my search of You Tube and Google, absolutely nothing on replacing this reed switch of this model.
Maybe I am missing something that is hopefully obvious to you more experienced people.
If I had to cut and rejoin the two red wires it would be rather tricky given the area to work in; that's if you can get a red switch with two red wires connected to it.
I have included two photos of the C402 reed switch.
Hi,
Not much help, but just my thoughts.
We have had a Thetford cassette toilet in the cvan for 12yrs.
The reed switch light stopped working 10 yrs ago.
More trouble than its worth to try to fix it.
You will soon be able to tell when you need to empty it.
Regards,
Ian
Ditto
Our now 14 year old C400 is in daily use.
I have never seen any LED operate. We don't ever let is get that full. The tilt switch may or may not work?
Never tested. I must check one day.
I believe there is a blade fuse where red wires are, change that fuse even if it looks OK. Give area a liberal dosing of WD40 to eliminate any moisture in fuse aperture.
As Nomadz said empty often, don't wait until "Full" and Warning light actuated.
Hi,
Nope, not a silly question.
I cleaned the cassette, checked the float by filling the cassette with water.
All good.
Will try changing the fuse and giving the area a spray with WD40, NOTHING TO LOSE.
Thank You.
Did you "Physically" look at float by unscrewing the top off the cassette? (Dinner plate sized portal)
Hi,
I sure did.
Noticed the removal of the dinner plate on a You Tube Video.
Cheers
As has been mentioned previously, I never let the cassette fill to the stage where the light might come on. But I must admit that late one night several years ago I was advised that there was a strange light on the toilet.
About 15 years ago when I used to rely on the light, it failed. In my case i think that it was because I was too vigorous in shaking the cassette when cleaning after emptying it. The float pendulum had 'jumped' over a ridge of plastic that was supposed to restrict its movement thus preventing its operation. To fix it I just gently bent the arm a bit & levered it back into the correct position. Perhaps it is still working.
Is it not possible to cut the wires further back at an accessible point and solder (or crimp join) & shrink wrap longer pieces to make it easier to refit the new switch? Often switches come without wires connected. In these cases connection is made by just removing the insulation & pushing the bare wire into the hole where a couple of sharp scissor like fingers grab it. If the switch comes with wires already connected is it possible just to lengthen them for connection at a more accessible point in the wiring harness?
Hi,
That was one of the issues I have, the supposed replacement reed switch has no wires connected.
The original one has two red wires as shown in the photo, but they don't appear to come out, maybe they are siezed/rusted in there.
There were a couple of places where you can buy the reed switch but whoever is answering my question re the red wires never addresses this issue just confirming its the right switch.
As someone person mentioned earlier, spray with WD40, spray the fuse(have replaced with a new one) and it may loosen up the red wiring which may or may not come out.
Cheers
It is a common practice to manufacture devices with the sorts of connectors that just require the stripped or even not stripped wire into the hole & the 'scissors' cut through the insulation or just into the bared wire, whatever the case is. Makes it easier for manufacture/assembly.
Many of these don't allow you to withdraw the wire but others have a small release 'lever'.
When I encounter these sorts of connectors I always remove the insulation on the replacement component just to be sure.
Sometimes you can withdraw the old wires using brute strength. Might work or it might just damage the connector ruining the component.
I did think of that but decided not to.
I may have to go to plan Z; ha ha.
Cheers
Hi,
That is the main issue, they don't have any wiring.
I can't tell by the photos of the switch if it is possible to connect my wires to it, even if I have to extend the wiring slightly.
I have e mailed two separate suppliers and all I get is that the switch they are selling is the correct one, nothing about my wiring question.
Cheers
Hi,
Now that sounds interesting, will check it out.
No luck here or on You Tube or Google.
Cheers