Sheba wrote:

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 but you used to have to be careful with "Positive" and "Negative".

Cheers,

Sheba.

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 you still do,

jetj wrote:

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Hi Patrolst,

Thanks it it does help. I have the 2 red battery lights and the load light only, I'm missing the charge light. I have removed the 2 load leads. I am wondering if the wires from the two panels are connected to the controller properly now. I wonder if this would cause the no charge light or the smoke has done damage. The wires from the load clamps are blackened.

Thanks

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 Two red lights would indercate the battery is 2/3rd charged, look at the tappered graph above the lights.

The leads from the panells have a pair of push together plugs, a male & female on each lead, these are apposed on each lead so you cannot connect them the wrong way. simply the leads from the panel have a male plug on one & a female on the other, same from the controler so can only go one way.

The two red lights means the controler is reading battery level, thats ok. No charge light leads me to think you have damaged the controler as stated earlier.

The charge system could be checked with a multi meter, but if you have no knowledge of these then thats a bit hard for you.

If you were here then I'd do it for you but you are possibily on the other side of the country. LOL

If you have some one who has a meter & can use it then we can advise you on how to do it.

JC.

Thanks Just Cruising,

I do have a multimeter but when I used it on the battery and the controller I kept getting sparks and thought I had blown that up too. I worked out though that the red + was in the wrong hole and I then went out to the battery and got what I think is a correct reading of 12.55 volts.

I haven't left the panel attached for too long on each occasional unless I do more damage, maybe I need to leave it attached for a while and see if the charge light does come on, I'm thinking it may need time for the panel to start charging at a rate strong enough to show the charge light.

Failing that I've stuffed the controller I reckon. Live and learn. Thanks for posting, I'm near Sydney.

Thanks

Hi Janette

Can you open up your battery box to check if there is a fuse in the setup.

If the panels are in the open light the load light should come on, the period of time you have it out for will determine how much charge you will receive.

Sorry, couldn't resist the dig about the country, lol. Seriously though, I purchased a folding 80W panel for my site at the local dam from e-bay & found that the leads on one side were incorrectly connected & marked. For your checks, put your multimeter on Vdc 20 or 30 V range, then check across the two solar panel screws (red - +, black - -) on the regulator with the panel leads connected & confirm that you have something better than a 12V reading. Once that is confirmed, check for voltage across the battery screws on the regulator with the battery disconnected making sure that the two battery leads are not touching. Then check across the two load screws on the regulator. Obviously all this requires the panels to be facing the sun. Let me know your results please & I might be able to work out whats wrong from them.

Darrell

Thanks Darrell and Patrolst, you're both very kind.

My battery box does have a fuse for sure, I wrecked the push button light thingy that shows how charged the battery is, it stays on now and won't turn off. I might have to cut the wires to turn that off.

I haven't had a chance to try again today.

When I had my recent renos done on the van I got the man to put a 12V outlet on the van connected to the battery and a 12V plug on the solar panel, so all I have to do is plug the panel in.  Haven't tried it out yet 'cos I am mainly staying in caravan parks on this trip - but the  panel is in the car just in case. Helen

Thanks Darrell, I will give that a go tomorrow. Appreciate your help. I would rather drive to Gulgong than from here to Sydney anyday.

Helen, I hope to hook up an Anderson plug at the solar panel and one at the battery so that I can connect and disconnect easily. That's if I can get it working.

Hi Darrell,

No current at all on those solar panel connection screws in the controller with the battery connected, load light on and charge light off.

Thanks for your help.

Edit

Just tried the panel without battery connected and multimeter is getting a reading of 19 volts on the  solar panel controller screws in shade and the charge light is on and load light off. Connect battery no reading and charge light off, load light on.

I don't have instructions but one of members sent me a copy from a similar unit. That says 12.6 that it should start to charge.

Thanks Darrell.

Also has this

Data:

OK, can nearly guarantee the regulator is buggered. I had one similar supplied with the panel out at the dam - failed after a few weeks. I replaced it with this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-LCD-Solar-Charge-Regulator-Controller-12v-24v-/300590818174?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item45fc9be37e which has been running continuously with no problems for the last two years plus allows me to modify the settings. If that one is a bit expensive, this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-Solar-Charge-Controller-Regulator-12V-24V-Autoswitch-720W-Solar-Panel-/110913844855?pt=AU_Solar&hash=item19d2faf677 should be OK as well

Darrell

Darrell,

Thanks so much for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Do I need a 30 amp or would a 20 be ok? I bought a 20 on ebay yesterday incase it was no good similar to the second link. Also would I glue one of these to the panel or keep it remotely from the panels and extend the wires somehow?

Thanks again for all your help.

The twenty should be fine.  I wouldn't glue it to the back of the panel due to heat reasons but rather fit it somewhere close to the battery. I see no reason why you couldn't put a plug arrangement on the existing panel cables with the matching socket on a new pair of cables going to the panel connections on the regulator and leave the battery permanently connected to the regulator. For the current concerned a twin 4mm automotive cable up to about 10 metres would easily suffice for the connection to the panel. Voltage drop shouldn't be a problem as the panel puts out 19 volts on no load. Be very careful when making the connections to the regulator that no cable strands short across to the adjacent terminal. Good luck & pleased I could be of assistance. It is vital that the socket section be fitted on the cable to the regulator, not the one to the panel as the battery is live all the time whilst the panel is only live while outside.


Darrell

Your measurements of 19v at the solar terminals and 2.7v at the battery out were the sort of figures I was after with my post the other day.

Agree with Darrell, your Panels are OK but controller is R/S.

Replacing your controller with a larger unit is a good move.

The best way to set up your new system would be to have the controller close/next to the battery, and a long leads (heavy duty eg 6B/S) to the panels. The controller could be mounted next to be battery, and Anderson plugs connecting a long lead to your panels. Probably need to get an Auto electrician to set it up for you.

 Edit: See Daryl posted as I was typing re setting up your new system and I agree

Thanks Darrell and Ron and Shirley, sorry the other day I had the multmeter on the wrong settings and thought I'd ruined it.

I'm thinking that an Anderson plug at the solar panels (hope it is possible to connect the two + and two - leads from the panel into one plug), a 6 B&S extension lead from Ebay with the anderson plugs connected both ends and an anderson plug connected to my battery might be the way to go. Somewhere near the battery for the controller.

oldboar wrote:

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Sounds like your battery has more charge than the cut-in setting on the regulator. To confirm it could you let me know two readings, please. The voltage reading with the battery disconnected and then again with the battery connected. Please take both readings across the battery terminals on the regulator.

Darrell

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 Darrell 12.55 with battery connected, 2.74 without. Battery reading at battery not connected is also 12.55

oldboar wrote:

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OK in the regulator manual it should tell you how to read what the cut-out voltage is as well as how to adjust it. Could you let me know the setting please? If it's less than 14.4V adjust it up to that, please. Bit curious about the 2.74 without battery connected. Is that genuine or a typo?

Darrell

Thanks so much Darrell that is genuine.

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Yes Darrell has been really wonderful, I can't thank him enough. Also Patrolst as well, has sent me instruction for the controller.

I hope it does help others too.

I would have the controller directly wired to the battery, gets rid of the alligator clips.

Then a short lead from the solar input terminals of the controller to an Anderson plug.

Then it is just a matter of connecting the extension lead from the panels Anderson plug to the Anderson plug permanently connected to the controller.

Thanks Ron and Shirl. That makes sense, might get an auto sparky to do it, I'd be tempted to have a go but don't want to risk blowing up another controller. lol

Happywanderer wrote:

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I have been following this thread closely. I will know where to return to if I have problems when I get arlound to using mine.

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 It would be a much smarter move to set it up at home & make sure it works before you go out some where to find if  it has a problem or not, because that leaves you out there with no solar & no help.

JC

Happywanderer wrote:

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Where are you parked at the moment Jim. I will come and park next to you. lol

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HW.

We are at home at the moment just north of Brisbane. (Am I the Jim you meant and not JC)?