Unfortunately the 12 volt side does not run properly. I have since found that I can have it running well on 240 volt. I then switch off 240 and disconnect, connect 12 volt. The compressor will then run for 5 second and then all power will drop off. While I took Photos of the wiring before disconnecting from the Black power supply regulator for bridge testing the compressor but due to poor photo vision am not sure I have reconnected properly. Could this be the issue or is something else wrong in the 12 volt system
Kenm4 said
11:51 AM May 5, 2017
Unfortunately the 12 volt power does not hold long. I can run no worries on 240, then power off disconnect 240 power up 12 volt and it will run for 5 seconds before the 12 volt supply drops off. I have checked the wires I reconnected after the bridge test and think I have them right. Is it the case that the 240 supply holds in a relay for a few seconds after power is disconnected, thus allowing 12 volts to flow temporarily to the compressor.
DeBe said
03:27 PM May 5, 2017
Is your controller a 101N0500 with the 240v supply built in? If it is there is no relay, it uses a solidstate switching device (MOSFET) to change over supplies.
Kenm4 said
11:15 AM May 6, 2017
Yes it is the 101no500 does that mean that I have stuffed it.
DeBe said
01:19 PM May 6, 2017
It doesn't look good for the controller. The controller I have the 240V side is burnt out, so I just use it on 12V.
Kenm4 said
01:53 PM May 6, 2017
I saw somewhere that a new controller is approx. $300, and I would like to run it on 12 volts if I can. Question 1 If I disconnected 240v supply to the controller and bridged the C and T on the controller would the thermostat and other controls work normally. I have an old Ups that I can hook to my van batteries to run the waeco on 240 volts and suffer the conversion loss. Question 2 is would the UPS be pure sine wave, keeping in mind they were designed to keep PCs running on a power shut down
DeBe said
02:40 PM May 6, 2017
If you bridge C & T you are bypassing the thermostat & it will run continuously. If you fit an external electronic thermostat that is where you connect it to. Now not all UPS are sinewave a lot are squarewave. Yes the controller is around $300.
Kenm4 said
03:21 PM May 6, 2017
Thank you until I determine the UPS will not hurt the waeco electronics I will run it through My onboard Pure sine wave inverter in the Van. May have to bite the bullet later and pick up a controller.
kev071 said
10:39 AM Aug 5, 2018
Hi All,
I have the same controller as Noremac01 has (101N0500) but mine isnt working on 240v, 12v is working good.
There is 240vac and 330vdc at the bridge rectifier but I dont know where it goes to from there.
i would of thought it should step down prior to going to the bridge rectifier, could it be the step down transformer, if so which one is it?
Before I pulled it apart when on 240v the panel and error light would flicker (not flash) but not compressor or fan starting.
It will be quite a challenge to repair the 240v part of the controller. You are dealing with a Switch Mode Power Supply. Posted the block diagram of the unit & pictures of the board that I have marking the 240V side. I found its easier & cheaper to just use the unit on 12V dc & use a 240v/12v dc powersupply if you want to use it on mains.
-- Edited by DeBe on Sunday 5th of August 2018 04:36:34 PM
Hi have the same issues. 12 volts on my cf 60 stopped working. Since a couple of days 230volt doesn't work either anymore. Only emergency mode. What do I need to do? Pls help me out. I'm on my travel next week again and need it fixed.
Cheers Florian
DeBe said
03:15 PM Mar 2, 2020
If it works on emergency then the compressor & its controler is ok. But will need a picture of the other board, to see which type it is & does the display light up?
Harrer94 said
01:43 PM Mar 3, 2020
So cleaned the board with degreaser, wd40 and a toothbrush. 240v working again, but still issue with 12volts
landy said
09:56 PM Mar 5, 2020
Hats off to you Debe. That's a great job your doing there. My fridge is working fine but it is always good to see somebody that has the skills giving their time to help people in need, Well done mate. Landy.
-- Edited by landy on Thursday 5th of March 2020 09:56:51 PM
Chrs_tof said
11:15 AM Nov 11, 2020
Hi guys, its my turn for my waeco cf50 to only work on 240v. I have the danfoss 101n0500 board. New fresh battery 12v cable connected directly to the danfoss board on the compressor... no power on display at all, no noise nothing. Tried bridging terminals C And T no such luck.
Any other suggestions?
Thank you kindly
DeBe said
01:39 PM Nov 11, 2020
So it works on 240V but not on 12V? Does the display work on 240V?
dabbler said
05:00 PM Nov 11, 2020
My Waeco CF has a habit of altering settings when it shuts down on DC. It then stops working on DC OR drops the temps to freezer level but okay on AC. Not every time but often enough to learn a solution. On AC, cycling through the settings and changing the preferred low voltage cutoff to something something else THEN cycle again this time changing to the preferred low voltage cutoff value. Sounds crazy I know but when you're off grid you and have a dodgy fridge you try all sorts of things.
Chrs_tof said
10:06 AM Nov 12, 2020
DeBe
To answer your question only on 240v does the display come alive. 12v I get absolutely nothing not even and error code
Thanks
DeBe said
06:56 PM Nov 12, 2020
Hope these are the same as your boards. The circuit board has a 3 terminal regulator. Check that there is 12V where marked & 5V. Do this test only on 12V as theres 240V AC on this board if pluged into the mains.
DeBe thanks again for your reply. Yes the boards look the same. I seem to be getting 12.8v across right across that voltage regulator on the board. Also getting 12.8v at terminals A and C.
Would this suggest the voltage regulator is cooked?
DeBe said
06:21 PM Nov 13, 2020
12V at A & C is correct. But there should be 5V betwean GND & 5V, not 12V.
Chrs_tof said
07:35 PM Nov 13, 2020
I replaced the voltage regulator and still the same. Unless there is a short in the board somewhere. I was even getting 12v on the middle pin which is meant to be ground?
DeBe said
10:17 PM Nov 13, 2020
Sounds like theres a missing ground to the board. There should be near 0 ohms from the reg ground to 12V Ground.
Chrs_tof said
10:37 PM Nov 13, 2020
Any suggestions to check where may be missing the ground?
DeBe said
10:56 AM Nov 14, 2020
Check for continouty betwean GND on the Reg to each of the points circled in yellow.
So I'm not getting continuity on the
12v negative terminal on the danfoss board and the D port on the smaller board all other highlighted terminals had continuity.
Could this mean there may be a fault in the danfoss board?
Chrs_tof said
06:39 AM Nov 16, 2020
I just noticed you didn't actually circle terminal D on the smaller board. So the only pin I'm not getting continuity on is the negative pin in the 12/24v on the danfoss board. Sorry for the confusion there.
DeBe said
08:43 AM Nov 17, 2020
On this board there should be continuity from the REG GND to pin C 12V neg. The switching MOSFET that i have marked connects the 12/24V NEG pin to C, when the unit is powered by 12/24V.
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 17th of November 2020 08:45:21 AM
Unfortunately the 12 volt side does not run properly. I have since found that I can have it running well on 240 volt. I then switch off 240 and disconnect, connect 12 volt. The compressor will then run for 5 second and then all power will drop off. While I took Photos of the wiring before disconnecting from the Black power supply regulator for bridge testing the compressor but due to poor photo vision am not sure I have reconnected properly. Could this be the issue or is something else wrong in the 12 volt system
Unfortunately the 12 volt power does not hold long. I can run no worries on 240, then power off disconnect 240 power up 12 volt and it will run for 5 seconds before the 12 volt supply drops off. I have checked the wires I reconnected after the bridge test and think I have them right. Is it the case that the 240 supply holds in a relay for a few seconds after power is disconnected, thus allowing 12 volts to flow temporarily to the compressor.
Is your controller a 101N0500 with the 240v supply built in? If it is there is no relay, it uses a solidstate switching device (MOSFET) to change over supplies.
Yes it is the 101no500 does that mean that I have stuffed it.
I saw somewhere that a new controller is approx. $300, and I would like to run it on 12 volts if I can. Question 1 If I disconnected 240v supply to the controller and bridged the C and T on the controller would the thermostat and other controls work normally. I have an old Ups that I can hook to my van batteries to run the waeco on 240 volts and suffer the conversion loss. Question 2 is would the UPS be pure sine wave, keeping in mind they were designed to keep PCs running on a power shut down
Thank you until I determine the UPS will not hurt the waeco electronics I will run it through My onboard Pure sine wave inverter in the Van. May have to bite the bullet later and pick up a controller.
Hi All,
I have the same controller as Noremac01 has (101N0500) but mine isnt working on 240v, 12v is working good.
There is 240vac and 330vdc at the bridge rectifier but I dont know where it goes to from there.
i would of thought it should step down prior to going to the bridge rectifier, could it be the step down transformer, if so which one is it?
Before I pulled it apart when on 240v the panel and error light would flicker (not flash) but not compressor or fan starting.
any ideas?
-- Edited by DeBe on Sunday 5th of August 2018 04:36:34 PM
Landy.
-- Edited by landy on Thursday 5th of March 2020 09:56:51 PM
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 17th of November 2020 08:45:21 AM
I had the same problem. The 12 v lead where it plugs into the fridge buggars up. $ 20 at Vidcam for a new 12v lead fixed the problem.
Test the lead with a multi meter and it will read OK, The plastic fitting spreads and losses contact.