Hi Peter. Not sure how far you want to go? ONLY USE 12V when testing. On the PCB there is 3X black wires 12V neg & 2X white wires 12V Pos, should have power here. Check track side of board for vaporised copper tracks. There is 2X 3term Regulators. On IC1 7810 there should be 12V, middle pin is Gnd & other pin should have 10V. On other reg 7805 on one side 12V & other pin 5V. At this stage see how you go. Daryl
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 18th of May 2010 11:47:47 AM
possumyvonne said
08:22 PM May 18, 2010
hi daryl, i dont wont to sound stupid but do i pull the whole fridge apart. i have remembered that the tecnision said something about the rectorfier being blown and he could tell if it was on a generator when it blew up. is it true what he says. i will try and have a look at it and let you no how i go, kind regards peter
possumyvonne said
08:34 PM May 18, 2010
hi daryl, just wondering ,if i could give you a ring to have a chat if so, please send me a PM. thanks regards peter
-- Edited by Webmaster on Monday 24th of May 2010 09:00:34 PM
jimricho said
08:41 PM May 19, 2010
Hi possumyvonne,
Just a suggestion, I hope you don't mind, but I consider it a better idea to use the private message (PM) facility to pass on emails and phone numbers rather than post them here for "all and sundry" to view and possibly misuse.
kindest regards,
Jim
possumyvonne said
10:27 AM May 20, 2010
thanks jim will do regards peter
PeterD said
12:34 AM May 21, 2010
possumyvonne wrote:hi daryl, just wondering ,if i could give you a ring to have a chat if so can you email your ph no to me at . . . . again thanks regards peter
Peter - I suggest you edit this message pronto to remove your details before they get on too many lists. Remember this is an open forum.
possumyvonne said
06:42 PM May 22, 2010
thanks daryl for all your help on my fridge it works really fine on 12v. with out you my fridge would still be in the spare room, and nice chatting with you also .to poeple out there if you need advise listen to him as he does no what he is talking about .again many thanks, this is what friend ship and clubs like this one are all about. helping each other when they can regards peter(possumyvonne)
03_troopy said
09:33 AM Oct 10, 2010
I also have a problem with one of these fridges. It started out with the display reading rediculously high readings and the fridge running continuously. Now the fridge doesn't cool at all.
DeBe said
05:03 PM Oct 10, 2010
Hi 03Troopy, Is the compressor running? There is a slide switch marked Emergency over ride & Normal use. If you put it on Emergency over ride the compressor should run & will freeze as it over rides the electronic temp control. Try this first then get back. Daryl
03_troopy said
09:18 PM Oct 15, 2010
Hi Daryl, I have only just been able to get back online, so I will try that in the morning and see what happens. Thanks mate.
03_troopy said
12:15 PM Oct 17, 2010
OK.. just been checking the Fridge out and here's what I have found.
Originally the temp display started to climb up to about 70deg, and fridge was getting very cold to freezing. Then fridge would run but not get cold. At times I'd get an error light flashing, but don't remember how many flashes.
NOW
Plugged into 240V and thermostat set to -04 deg :-
The compressor runs (very quiet), but cooler is not getting cold. The display is reading 13 degrees. The compressor ran for quite a few minutes, but now seems to run for a minute then cuts out (with a clunk noise) and the error light flashes 3 times then a pause for a few seconds then flashes 3 times again. It does this for a couple of minutes then error stops flashing and the compressor cuts back in.
The run time for the compressor is getting erratic, from a few minutes, to sometimes only about 20 secs now, after the fridge has running for about 15 mins. The Display still reads 13 and the temperature in the machine is about 17dec with no sign of cooling when placing my hand on the cooler element. The compressor is only warm to touch, and the fan has not come on yet after now 20 minutes.
The resistance of the thermister is about 13K ohms.
Bob
DeBe said
02:38 PM Oct 17, 2010
Hi Bob, The thermistor is about the right res for that temp. But 3 flash fault is motor start error, locked rotor or to high head pressure. Since the compressor can be heard running it has to be toohigh head pressure. I suspect the filter drier or capilliary tube is blocked or badly restricted. The only fix will be to get a Frigie to hook up gauges to confirm this, then get filter/drier replaced, which will mean a re gas. Daryl
DeBe said
02:54 PM Oct 17, 2010
Fault codes Waeco. 1 flash, supply voltage out of range. 2 flash,excess fan current load more than 1Amp. 3 flash, motor no start rotor jamed or pressure differential in system too high. 4 flash, compressor speed to low if cooling system is over loaded the minimum motor speed of 1800Rpm cannot be maintained. 5 flash over heating of electronic unit. Daryl
03_troopy said
07:31 PM Oct 17, 2010
OK, thanks for that Daryl, I'll give a local mob a ring and arrange to get it looked at. I suspected it may be a compressor problem or similar, but I thought may have somehow been damaged when it was seeing 70deg on the thermostat and was running too hard to maintain cold. But then again, they are designed to be a freezer as well so that really shouldn't worry it should it?
Cheers mate Bob
DeBe said
07:55 PM Oct 17, 2010
Hi Bob, The compressor will handle running continously if every thing is working ok. Yours is runing & then shuting down as the electronic module is sensing that there is too high a head pressure then has a timeout period & has another go, then will eventually flash a code. (Self preservation). Cheers Daryl. Ps like to know what the eventual outcome is.
possumyvonne said
08:30 PM Dec 11, 2010
hi daryl, hows things
i would like to ask you a question about my 35 waeco, the one that i only have 12volt on
as you no im using the 40lt as a fridge and the 35lt as a freezer.
but the 35lt seems to be taking a long time to reach freezing as ive had it on all day and at the moment its up to -05c but its set to -10
does it take a long time to get that cold as i only have frozen stuff in it
could you please give me any advise please
regards peter
03_troopy said
10:31 AM Feb 10, 2011
DeBe wrote:
Hi Bob, The compressor will handle running continously if every thing is working ok. Yours is runing & then shuting down as the electronic module is sensing that there is too high a head pressure then has a timeout period & has another go, then will eventually flash a code. (Self preservation). Cheers Daryl. Ps like to know what the eventual outcome is.
Well been ages since i was on here and I eventually decided against getting the weaco repaired. I figured that since it was second hand when I bought it for $500, and it is likely to cost in excess of $300 to repair it with no guarantee it won't happen again in a few months time, I'd rather put the money towards a new bigger fridge. Ended up buying a 60L Engel with cover new for $1500 (had a friend in the business). Still not sure what to do about the Weaco, dump it? advertise to see if anyone wants it as a freebie for the case maybe (has a cover too)? But I am also thinking another small (around 25L to 35L) fridge would be good for shopping trips or to use as a dedicated freezer on long trips away. Thanks for your help DeBe, sorry I couldn't let you know the cause of the fault though. Bob
DeBe said
05:13 PM Feb 10, 2011
Hi Bob good to hearfrom you, You should be happy with your new fridge & atleast its got warranty on it. Just a pitty you are so far away with the old fridge as ime sure there is salvagable parts in it. Cheers Daryl
Krakka said
01:26 AM Feb 13, 2012
Hi DeBe, We get a problem now and again with our 110lt Waeco. We get the 3 flashes, only now and again, only on 12V and by moving the small red switch over to the left the fridge starts again and I flick the red switch back to the right again and all seems well again. I have read what you posted above but is there an easy way to tell which problem I have got of the two possible problems.
Tends to happen when the weather is hot also.
Regards
DeBe said
01:47 AM Feb 13, 2012
Hi Krakka. With a fridge that size i would be suspicious of low voltage. Try leaving the small red switch on the left (Low). If that fixes it check wiring. How have you conected to the power? i dont trust cigarete plugs. Daryl
Krakka said
02:13 AM Feb 13, 2012
Thanks Daryl, fridge is hard wired directly to the battery, albeit it is in the rear of my Cruiser but on a dedicated power source. Sorry, got the switch positions mixed up, trouble when you rely on your memory. Switch to left is usual position, when I have the said problem I flick the switch to the right and the fridge starts, then flick switch back to left position. I will try and remember to check the voltage at the fridge next time.
Regards Peter
alcatrav said
07:10 PM Feb 27, 2012
I had a fellow come into the shop last week with his fridge pulled apart trying to fix a thermo issue. The instructions here helped us work through it together and get him up and running again. Thanks for the info!
DeBe said
05:19 PM Mar 17, 2012
To test if the compressor & module are ok, remove wires from C & T . Then bridge them out with a jumper wire, the compressor should then run. The test was done on 12V. if using the 240V powersupply then it will be 24V. The best place to check the running voltage is on the top 2 thicker wires.
I know this is an old thread but it still seems relevant, I have a waeco cf35 which works perfectly on 240v but doesnt do a thing on 12v (no error or any activity).The fridge is about 4 - 5 years old and has the danfoss compressor and is the one with the "set" button on the control panel.I have plugged it into 240v and set it to low voltage to try and rule out a voltasge drop issue.
I have tested the voltage on the anderson plug, fridge plug and inside the fridge and it's reading 12.89v.I have also tried setting it to emergency use "the red slide switch" but still no go.There is a glass fuse on the circuit board which I checked with the multi meter and seems to be fine.I also noticed there is three black wirs coming from the pcb and all of these seem to have the 12v.
Can anyone assist me in diagnosing the problem.
Thankyou in advance.
DeBe said
04:48 PM Dec 9, 2015
-- Edited by DeBe on Wednesday 9th of December 2015 04:49:30 PM
This is the circuit of the 240V powersupply only do testing with it NOT connected to 240V. The main suspect will be the little relay in the photo. The Red wire is the 12V DC feed in. The White wire is the feed to the compressor. This will have 24V DC when powered on 240V AC. It will have 12V DC when the fridge is powered from 12V DC. So the relay is the change over from the powersupply to the 12V. With no power suplied to the fridge there should be continuity from the red wire to the white wire, using a multimeter set on Ohms.
dfwcomputer said
05:27 PM Dec 9, 2015
thanks for the quick reply, im a little lost, is that the pcb at the front that the main 240v and 12v power plugs connect to.
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 18th of May 2010 11:47:47 AM
-- Edited by Webmaster on Monday 24th of May 2010 09:00:34 PM
regards peter
regards peter(possumyvonne)
Originally the temp display started to climb up to about 70deg, and fridge was getting very cold to freezing. Then fridge would run but not get cold. At times I'd get an error light flashing, but don't remember how many flashes.
NOW
Plugged into 240V and thermostat set to -04 deg :-
The compressor runs (very quiet), but cooler is not getting cold. The display is reading 13 degrees. The compressor ran for quite a few minutes, but now seems to run for a minute then cuts out (with a clunk noise) and the error light flashes 3 times then a pause for a few seconds then flashes 3 times again. It does this for a couple of minutes then error stops flashing and the compressor cuts back in.
The run time for the compressor is getting erratic, from a few minutes, to sometimes only about 20 secs now, after the fridge has running for about 15 mins. The Display still reads 13 and the temperature in the machine is about 17dec with no sign of cooling when placing my hand on the cooler element. The compressor is only warm to touch, and the fan has not come on yet after now 20 minutes.
The resistance of the thermister is about 13K ohms.
Bob
Cheers mate
Bob
Bob
I have read what you posted above but is there an easy way to tell which problem I have got of the two possible problems.
Tends to happen when the weather is hot also.
Regards
Hi Krakka. With a fridge that size i would be suspicious of low voltage. Try leaving the small red switch on the left (Low). If that fixes it check wiring. How have you conected to the power? i dont trust cigarete plugs. Daryl
Regards
Peter
I had a fellow come into the shop last week with his fridge pulled apart trying to fix a thermo issue. The instructions here helped us work through it together and get him up and running again. Thanks for the info!
Kind Regards Peter
Waeco CF-40 VER.A Circuit.
I know this is an old thread but it still seems relevant, I have a waeco cf35 which works perfectly on 240v but doesnt do a thing on 12v (no error or any activity).The fridge is about 4 - 5 years old and has the danfoss compressor and is the one with the "set" button on the control panel.I have plugged it into 240v and set it to low voltage to try and rule out a voltasge drop issue.
I have tested the voltage on the anderson plug, fridge plug and inside the fridge and it's reading 12.89v.I have also tried setting it to emergency use "the red slide switch" but still no go.There is a glass fuse on the circuit board which I checked with the multi meter and seems to be fine.I also noticed there is three black wirs coming from the pcb and all of these seem to have the 12v.
Can anyone assist me in diagnosing the problem.
Thankyou in advance.
-- Edited by DeBe on Wednesday 9th of December 2015 04:49:30 PM
This is the circuit of the 240V powersupply only do testing with it NOT connected to 240V. The main suspect will be the little relay in the photo. The Red wire is the 12V DC feed in. The White wire is the feed to the compressor. This will have 24V DC when powered on 240V AC. It will have 12V DC when the fridge is powered from 12V DC. So the relay is the change over from the powersupply to the 12V. With no power suplied to the fridge there should be continuity from the red wire to the white wire, using a multimeter set on Ohms.
thanks for the quick reply, im a little lost, is that the pcb at the front that the main 240v and 12v power plugs connect to.
mine looks different