I've never owned anything other than the humble motor car and only ever had petrol ones at that - so, the idea of getting into a diesel MH is more than a little daunting. I'm no mechanic either and no doubt have that preverbial tattoo stamped across my forehead that reads "SUCKER" that all mechanics and used car dealers can see and exploit at every opportunity.
Are there any rule-of-thumb things I should look for in particular or be wary of?
I understand that a lot of it comes down to common sense, things like rust and obvious leaks or potential leak problem points. But I'm sure there are many more experienced owners out there that are aware of at least some of the more common *gotchas* when it comes to these kinds of vehicles.
Being a long standing RACQ member, I would probably employ their expertise in a final inspection before buying, but I don't think that service is as cheap as it once was so I'd prefer to limit it to a final catch-all type inspection.
Any tips/advice for a noob?
Thanks in advance
~Xen~
Xennon said
01:14 PM May 29, 2012
Scotty01 wrote:
But as I said the most important is to have someone impartial that knows what they are looking at with you!
Thanks Scotty01, the magnet idea is a good one and one I've used in the past. As for having a expert or near expert with me, not possible unless I pay someone to tag along and pray they're honest with their assessment. I don't know anyone else personally who has any acceptable (aka genuine) knowledge about any of this - my best option is to do the RACQ inspection once I've isolated something that I find is 99% right for me.
Thanks for your input.
~Xen~
ps: As for QLD having a lot to choose from, so far all the ones i've seen appear to be down in the southern states and B'all up here.
-- Edited by Xennon on Tuesday 29th of May 2012 01:26:20 PM
Scotty01 said
01:45 PM May 29, 2012
Hi Dave! I have just been through all this looking at dozens of MH trying to decide just what I wanted and trying to find the right one :( A lot of time spent. At least in Qld you have a very huge amount on offer up there. As in everything you only get what you pay for and that can be governed by your bank balance. As you freely admit you dont know anything about what your looking at always take someone who DOES know with you! True motor homes can be very expensive to repair if you get it wrong! Diesel would definatly be the way to go. Someof the older Coasters, Mazdas etc have a real lot of K's on them and rust is always a problem. When looking always carry a magnet with you. But as I said the most important is to have someone impartial that knows what they are looking at with you!
beiffe said
04:08 PM May 29, 2012
With a bus one of the things to be aware of is if there is a roof type aircon where it runs down the top sides of the bus, be very wary if there is signs of rust either inside or outside in this areas as often the condensation for continual use of the aircon has left water in this channel and it rust through from the inside so not visible till it breaks through. Often can be seen in any screw holes inside such as curtain tracks etc. Take a screw driver and remove a few if they are there and check the screws for rust.
All old vehicles will have some rust but you have to be aware. Make sure there is no rust around the main frame and make sure there is no cracks in the brackets holding the body to the chassis.
I have just sold my old Mazda and it was a great bus and I had 4 years in her full time. My biggest problems was the mechanic who I got to do the service before I left and he forgot to add oil and blew the motor while doing the test drive before delivery back to me. Cost ME heaps and I had lots of problems caused by his poor workmanship in the motor change. Stripped bolts, seals not seated properly, wrong pieces such as fuel pump, faulty alternator etc and then the added frustration of getting them all fixed on the road.
Find a good mechanical friend to look it over and then perhaps the local RACQ inspection.
You should find something that suits and I find the bus style good as it usually gives a better ride especially it was a coach.
Best of luch in your search.
Regards Brian
billeeeeeee said
05:45 PM May 29, 2012
Howdyeeeee Look for a good one,,,,,stay excited,,,,,,,,,,,Billeeeeeeeee
... You should find something that suits and I find the bus style good as it usually gives a better ride especially it was a coach.
Wow, that was pretty rough with your mechanical issues or should I say "mechanic" issues.
Thanks for the tip on the aircon/rust issues - I'll remember that.
~Xen~
Xennon said
08:23 PM May 29, 2012
billeeeeeee wrote:
Howdyeeeee Look for a good one,,,,,stay excited,,,,,,,,,,,Billeeeeeeeee
lol - Actually, having done a bit of old Qld'er reno that thing might not be as nasty as it 1st appears + I already have the tools to reno it.
Keith19837 said
04:00 AM May 30, 2012
Hi Xennon. What I've read here is good stuff. There are a heap of variables and it's best to have someone with you that can at least sort the wheat from the chaff. The R.A.C. (in it's various forms Vic Qld etc) are pretty good but you're going to have to spend money on each report which could add up to many hundreds if you get them to report on every vehicle you like the look of. What I'ld do is make a small list (say 10) of those you wish to look at due to size, extras etc and go have look. There are a number of 'tricks which can help to sort the potentials from the duds. Illiminate the obvious duds in all your inspections, then you could use R.A.C. to help sort out the best. To give you a list of 'tricks' will take up space here and of course there will be many more hints as the thread goes on. Remember too that higher Ks on a diesel is usually better than on a petrol motor and diesels have less engine electrics. Having said that, diesel mechanics often charge more. If all the filters have been changed regularly on a diesel, they usually outlast the petrol. I've just bought a diesel (non turbo) 330,000 on the clock, 14 years old and two previous owners. I looked at many on the net, phoned a lot and physically checked on about 8. I got my brother (diesel mechanic) to sort the last few for me. For what it's worth.
Xennon said
05:03 AM May 30, 2012
Keith19837 wrote:
There are a number of 'tricks which can help to sort the potentials from the duds.
Ahhh! .. those *tricks* are exactly what I and I'm sure most other non-experts hunger to know. I suggest you compile a comprehensive list of these tricks and post it on the forums as a sticky so we can all avoid the pitfalls that ignorance carries with it. In fact, the idea may even warrant a dedicated thread of its own fo noobs like me and other can puruse and absorb all in one place.
Cruising Granny said
05:08 AM May 30, 2012
Ex-rentals seem to be a good way to go. They have low mileage, they've been serviced and should be pretty tidy. My friend bought an Iveco dielsel in Brisbance. I think you can go motorhome shopping on the internet before you set foot in a salesyard and face confrontation of a salesperson.
Xennon said
05:56 AM May 30, 2012
That's exactly what I'm doing but there does not seem to be much around in the private market - I'm unsure about dealers - I don't trust them. Of course private owners are no less devious, but may be more open to negotiation than dealers.
beiffe said
03:38 PM May 30, 2012
If you have the time and you are looking at a secondhand rental there is a good option to try before you buy if you have some time.
Most companies have a system where they need rentals returned to a base and you can register and bring a van of choice either back to your state or deliver on to another place and then either bring another back or fly back, your choice.
By memory it is $1 a day or similar and you have 7 days to complete the transfer and you pay for the fuel. Not sure if has changes since I looked at it but another option to try out or just get from one state to the other. Time frame has to be fariable as you have to wait till one a return is needed and perhaps the vehicle you are interested in.
This sites has some options http://www.standbyrelocs.com/ and another http://www.britz.com.au/relocatevehicles and most others do the same you just have to search around once you have an idea if these are what you are looking at.
Kea also have list of ex rental MH's on the internet.
Cheers
David
Xennon said
12:26 AM May 31, 2012
Thanks David and Brian - I'll look into both recommendations. I'd also be interested in learning what might be the key points that are most likely to be problematic in motorhomes - rust around the aircon has already been mentioned as has cracks around the body/chassis mount point.
I know very little about mechanics and even less about diesel. I know that big diesel mileages is not unexpected, but what's the average lifespan of the diesel motors that drive most motorhomes? ie at what mileage does one start to think it's approaching its use-by date? And - as a follow-on from that, how expensive might the *average* reconditioning of an old motor be?
What about transmissions? Do they die at around the same time as motors or do they last longer or less?
Are there any other BIG money pits apart from engine and transmission that we need to be conscious of?
I know that I'm probably asking how long is a piece of string here - but I'm only looking for general figures from people with experience in these things.
As a general rule - how much money should be budgeted for annual running costs, repairs and services? (excluding fuel)
Roving-Dutchy said
05:10 PM May 31, 2012
Hi Xen
Its very hard to know just how long is the life of the engine and transmission it can very much depend on the driver and the use.
Some very expensive items on a modern diesel can be the fuel pump at around the $6000 mark this can depend on the brand of vehicle another pricey item are the injectors at $2000 each again depends on the make of vehicle, they do wear out or you can be unlucky with the fuel pump and pick up water in the fuel which gets to the pump, goodbye pump.
All in all I think it is impossible to know just what you might encounter down the track with repairs and to estimate in a 2nd hand vehicle what problems you may encounter, in all its just a case of luck.
You will get recommendations re buy Toyota they are bullet proof, I have owned one and it must have lost its armour, no make of vehicle is without its troubles from time to time.
I do hope that when you make your final decision you have many years of trouble free travelling and if you do encounter problems that they are only little ones.
I've never owned anything other than the humble motor car and only ever had petrol ones at that - so, the idea of getting into a diesel MH is more than a little daunting. I'm no mechanic either and no doubt have that preverbial tattoo stamped across my forehead that reads "SUCKER" that all mechanics and used car dealers can see and exploit at every opportunity.
Are there any rule-of-thumb things I should look for in particular or be wary of?
I understand that a lot of it comes down to common sense, things like rust and obvious leaks or potential leak problem points. But I'm sure there are many more experienced owners out there that are aware of at least some of the more common *gotchas* when it comes to these kinds of vehicles.
Being a long standing RACQ member, I would probably employ their expertise in a final inspection before buying, but I don't think that service is as cheap as it once was so I'd prefer to limit it to a final catch-all type inspection.
Any tips/advice for a noob?
Thanks in advance
~Xen~
Thanks Scotty01, the magnet idea is a good one and one I've used in the past. As for having a expert or near expert with me, not possible unless I pay someone to tag along and pray they're honest with their assessment. I don't know anyone else personally who has any acceptable (aka genuine) knowledge about any of this - my best option is to do the RACQ inspection once I've isolated something that I find is 99% right for me.
Thanks for your input.
~Xen~
ps: As for QLD having a lot to choose from, so far all the ones i've seen appear to be down in the southern states and B'all up here.
-- Edited by Xennon on Tuesday 29th of May 2012 01:26:20 PM
Hi Dave! I have just been through all this looking at dozens of MH trying to decide just what I wanted and trying to find the right one :( A lot of time spent. At least in Qld you have a very huge amount on offer up there. As in everything you only get what you pay for and that can be governed by your bank balance. As you freely admit you dont know anything about what your looking at always take someone who DOES know with you! True motor homes can be very expensive to repair if you get it wrong! Diesel would definatly be the way to go. Someof the older Coasters, Mazdas etc have a real lot of K's on them and rust is always a problem. When looking always carry a magnet with you. But as I said the most important is to have someone impartial that knows what they are looking at with you!
All old vehicles will have some rust but you have to be aware. Make sure there is no rust around the main frame and make sure there is no cracks in the brackets holding the body to the chassis.
I have just sold my old Mazda and it was a great bus and I had 4 years in her full time. My biggest problems was the mechanic who I got to do the service before I left and he forgot to add oil and blew the motor while doing the test drive before delivery back to me. Cost ME heaps and I had lots of problems caused by his poor workmanship in the motor change. Stripped bolts, seals not seated properly, wrong pieces such as fuel pump, faulty alternator etc and then the added frustration of getting them all fixed on the road.
Find a good mechanical friend to look it over and then perhaps the local RACQ inspection.
You should find something that suits and I find the bus style good as it usually gives a better ride especially it was a coach.
Best of luch in your search.
Regards
Brian
Howdyeeeee Look for a good one,,,,,stay excited,,,,,,,,,,,Billeeeeeeeee
Wow, that was pretty rough with your mechanical issues or should I say "mechanic" issues.
Thanks for the tip on the aircon/rust issues - I'll remember that.
~Xen~
lol - Actually, having done a bit of old Qld'er reno that thing might not be as nasty as it 1st appears + I already have the tools to reno it.
Hi Xennon. What I've read here is good stuff. There are a heap of variables and it's best to have someone with you that can at least sort the wheat from the chaff. The R.A.C. (in it's various forms Vic Qld etc) are pretty good but you're going to have to spend money on each report which could add up to many hundreds if you get them to report on every vehicle you like the look of. What I'ld do is make a small list (say 10) of those you wish to look at due to size, extras etc and go have look. There are a number of 'tricks which can help to sort the potentials from the duds. Illiminate the obvious duds in all your inspections, then you could use R.A.C. to help sort out the best. To give you a list of 'tricks' will take up space here and of course there will be many more hints as the thread goes on. Remember too that higher Ks on a diesel is usually better than on a petrol motor and diesels have less engine electrics. Having said that, diesel mechanics often charge more. If all the filters have been changed regularly on a diesel, they usually outlast the petrol. I've just bought a diesel (non turbo) 330,000 on the clock, 14 years old and two previous owners. I looked at many on the net, phoned a lot and physically checked on about 8. I got my brother (diesel mechanic) to sort the last few for me. For what it's worth.
Ahhh! .. those *tricks* are exactly what I and I'm sure most other non-experts hunger to know. I suggest you compile a comprehensive list of these tricks and post it on the forums as a sticky so we can all avoid the pitfalls that ignorance carries with it. In fact, the idea may even warrant a dedicated thread of its own fo noobs like me and other can puruse and absorb all in one place.
Most companies have a system where they need rentals returned to a base and you can register and bring a van of choice either back to your state or deliver on to another place and then either bring another back or fly back, your choice.
By memory it is $1 a day or similar and you have 7 days to complete the transfer and you pay for the fuel. Not sure if has changes since I looked at it but another option to try out or just get from one state to the other. Time frame has to be fariable as you have to wait till one a return is needed and perhaps the vehicle you are interested in.
This sites has some options http://www.standbyrelocs.com/ and another http://www.britz.com.au/relocatevehicles and most others do the same you just have to search around once you have an idea if these are what you are looking at.
Regards
Brian
Regards
Brian
Hi Xen
There are many Motorhomes advertised in the CMCA magazine for sale by members, well worth becoming a member if just for the magazine, or you can see the ads online http://www.cmca.net.au/pages/members_market/MembersMarket-July.php
Kea also have list of ex rental MH's on the internet.
Cheers
David
I know very little about mechanics and even less about diesel. I know that big diesel mileages is not unexpected, but what's the average lifespan of the diesel motors that drive most motorhomes? ie at what mileage does one start to think it's approaching its use-by date? And - as a follow-on from that, how expensive might the *average* reconditioning of an old motor be?
What about transmissions? Do they die at around the same time as motors or do they last longer or less?
Are there any other BIG money pits apart from engine and transmission that we need to be conscious of?
I know that I'm probably asking how long is a piece of string here - but I'm only looking for general figures from people with experience in these things.
As a general rule - how much money should be budgeted for annual running costs, repairs and services? (excluding fuel)
Hi Xen
Its very hard to know just how long is the life of the engine and transmission it can very much depend on the driver and the use.
Some very expensive items on a modern diesel can be the fuel pump at around the $6000 mark this can depend on the brand of vehicle another pricey item are the injectors at $2000 each again depends on the make of vehicle, they do wear out or you can be unlucky with the fuel pump and pick up water in the fuel which gets to the pump, goodbye pump.
All in all I think it is impossible to know just what you might encounter down the track with repairs and to estimate in a 2nd hand vehicle what problems you may encounter, in all its just a case of luck.
You will get recommendations re buy Toyota they are bullet proof, I have owned one and it must have lost its armour, no make of vehicle is without its troubles from time to time.
I do hope that when you make your final decision you have many years of trouble free travelling and if you do encounter problems that they are only little ones.
Cheers
David