Chriss as an electrical Techie umpteen years ago and know nothing about your WB, all I can suggest is that if you do not already have a circuit diagram of your motorhome electrics get one asap, then as you track down problems you update the circuit diagram or alternatively come up with additional diagrams for each circuit eg lights, water pump, 12v/24v power, solar etc etc.

We have had minor teething problems with the vans we have purchased, at the time they seem big, but as you settle into the lifestyle its just another situation to resolve.

All the best in your travels

Peter

OK, like most men, I dont like being stumped by a mechanical thing, but apparently when you have all the amenities of a home on wheels its going to happen.  It still doesnt set well with a guy who makes his living as an HVAC & Electrical Contractor

This is our first long trip {over two weeks} since we bought this beast in November of 2011 and weve had a multitude of issues.  I wont go into the new tire we needed after she tired driving in a large parking lot {$600}, especially because I broke the Splendid® washer/dryer handle trying to be a big helper {$70}.  I wont even talk about the windshield wiper motor that had a mechanical failure in the first rain we hit and shorted out the Smart Wheel computer controller thats part of the Wizz-Bang gadgets on the steering wheelobviously not too smart of a controller.  That cost us spending a week in Memphis waiting on parts and our $500 deductible.

Now, weve had the drivers side head light go out about a week back and because we rarely are on the road at night I havent given it the attention it deserves.  So, fighting my manly inadequacies, I decided to tackle this easy problem. 

If I havent completely bored you to death thus far please read on and see if you can be of some assistance

We have a 2007 Winnebago Vectra® with a Freightliner chassis and a Cummings® 400 HP Diesel Pusher.  The bulb was good {I checked it in the passenger light socket} and I found the plug that connects to the head lamp to the light bulb had a burnt terminal.  Checking backwards, the plug that all the drivers side lights plug into also had the same burnt terminal.  Its the black wire which I would assume {big mistake I know} would be the ground.  I was able to improvise an electrical connector for the plug that attaches to the head lamp itself and cut and wire nutted the black wire around the plug that feeds everything on the drivers side.  No way to really improvise that one, but still no workey.  Continuing backwards the next plug had no indications of overheating or burns.  What to do?

As a sidebar, before all the real wizards reply, the spotlight on the top of the coach, which our RV Tech said  that he was surprised to see working in our walk-through, has worked { a guy has got to have something to play with}.  However, the light decided to stay on a few days ago {too many towns for any exact timetable}.  I replaced the batteries in the remote which is the only way to control the spot light, but still no workey.  I wasnt too concerned because we have either been running the engine, generator or plugged into a camp ground.  With that part of this novel being said, after my expeditions with head lamp, the chassis battery would not start the engine.  I thought that the spot light being on all the time might have discharged the chassis battery, but after reading the Freightliner owners manual, when were running the engine, generator or plugged in everything 12 volt DC should be ran off the converter and not kill the batteries. 

I tried the Battery Boost to start the engine, which is supposed to let the coach batteries jump the chassis batteries, but no luck again.  The coach batteries were reading 13.2 volts and chassis batteries were reading 11.9.  No fuses are bad.  No breakers are tripped.

So I know Ive given you more details than real diagnostic specifics, but I sitting in Philipsburg, Montana hoping to get to Glacier National Park, Yellow Stone and on to Bad Lands of Dakota before heading back to Florida.  By the way, not much to do in Philipsburg

I cant tell you how much I would appreciate someone helping me save my first real road trip and my manhood.

Thanks for any help you can be and may God Bless your testosterone!

Chris 

harvvectra2012 wrote:

---

 

OK, like most men, I dont like being stumped by a mechanical thing, but apparently when you have all the amenities of a home on wheels its going to happen.  It still doesnt set well with a guy who makes his living as an HVAC & Electrical Contractor

 

This is our first long trip {over two weeks} since we bought this beast in November of 2011 and weve had a multitude of issues.  I wont go into the new tire we needed after she tired driving in a large parking lot {$600}, especially because I broke the Splendid® washer/dryer handle trying to be a big helper {$70}.  I wont even talk about the windshield wiper motor that had a mechanical failure in the first rain we hit and shorted out the Smart Wheel computer controller thats part of the Wizz-Bang gadgets on the steering wheelobviously not too smart of a controller.  That cost us spending a week in Memphis waiting on parts and our $500 deductible.

Now, weve had the drivers side head light go out about a week back and because we rarely are on the road at night I havent given it the attention it deserves.  So, fighting my manly inadequacies, I decided to tackle this easy problem. 

If I havent completely bored you to death thus far please read on and see if you can be of some assistance

We have a 2007 Winnebago Vectra® with a Freightliner chassis and a Cummings® 400 HP Diesel Pusher.  The bulb was good {I checked it in the passenger light socket} and I found the plug that connects to the head lamp to the light bulb had a burnt terminal.  Checking backwards, the plug that all the drivers side lights plug into also had the same burnt terminal.  Its the black wire which I would assume {big mistake I know} would be the ground.  I was able to improvise an electrical connector for the plug that attaches to the head lamp itself and cut and wire nutted the black wire around the plug that feeds everything on the drivers side.  No way to really improvise that one, but still no workey.  Continuing backwards the next plug had no indications of overheating or burns.  What to do?

As a sidebar, before all the real wizards reply, the spotlight on the top of the coach, which our RV Tech said  that he was surprised to see working in our walk-through, has worked { a guy has got to have something to play with}.  However, the light decided to stay on a few days ago {too many towns for any exact timetable}.  I replaced the batteries in the remote which is the only way to control the spot light, but still no workey.  I wasnt too concerned because we have either been running the engine, generator or plugged into a camp ground.  With that part of this novel being said, after my expeditions with head lamp, the chassis battery would not start the engine.  I thought that the spot light being on all the time might have discharged the chassis battery, but after reading the Freightliner owners manual, when were running the engine, generator or plugged in everything 12 volt DC should be ran off the converter and not kill the batteries. 

I tried the Battery Boost to start the engine, which is supposed to let the coach batteries jump the chassis batteries, but no luck again.  The coach batteries were reading 13.2 volts and chassis batteries were reading 11.9.  No fuses are bad.  No breakers are tripped.

So I know Ive given you more details than real diagnostic specifics, but I sitting in Philipsburg, Montana hoping to get to Glacier National Park, Yellow Stone and on to Bad Lands of Dakota before heading back to Florida.  By the way, not much to do in Philipsburg

I cant tell you how much I would appreciate someone helping me save my first real road trip and my manhood.

Thanks for any help you can be and may God Bless your testosterone!

Chris 

---

 I'm sorry I had to enlarge the print, I was going crosseyed trying to read it.

Chris, as a general rule of thumb with electrics, a burnt plug/connection is normaly from either a loose/ dirty / corroded connection.

A bad connection causes resistance, inturn creats heat, results in burning &/or meltdown.

As for the low battery problem, not knowing the systems you use over there we would only be guessing.

Cheers;

JC.