Hi, hoping someone can answer a couple of questions re Rhino boat loaders. I recently installed a secondhand Rhino boat loader on my LC 100.
Loading the 3.75 tinny appears to be fine using the hand winch however when unloading, the boat moves backwards a few feet and then slows to a halt due to the winch rope becoming loose on the winch roller and starts to "bunch up". I followed the installation instructions as best I could and cant figure it out? Any suggestions?.
Apart from a slight dome on the topside front of the tinny there is no other obstruction to the rollers as the gunnels are flat the whole length. I checked the balance point of the boat and rope length fitting instruction so all should be fine there.
Also apart from using two tie down straps across the boat to secure to the rack would it be wise to also tie down the front of the boat to the bull bar?
Oh yes, last question, the blue manual winch on the side incorporates a safety ratchet when winding the boat up but not when lowering to the ground as I found out when I let go of the handle by mistake and the boat fell to the ground. Is there a "double" ratchet winch out there? Regards RR
Rheo47 said
02:57 PM Jul 1, 2013
Hi Road Runner. Ive had the Rhino boat loade for 14 years now. I did upgrade to the electric winch shortly after purchase . Your problem is common. With mine when backing the boat down to unload and it stops I stand on the tow bar and grasp the carry handles of the boat ot the rear (transom) and apply downward pressure , this alows the gunwhales of the boat to grip the rollers and away it goes. Apply this pressure when the ropes start to slaken.Dont be concerned when the boat starts to tip, it can only go so far. Depending on where you have placed your rollers on the tug, you may have to apply slight back pressure on the gunwhale to keep the rear going as it can stop, leaving the boat in the verticle position. Dont worry everything is very safe. I have forgoten how the reverse winch worked,
John"o
-- Edited by Rheo47 on Monday 1st of July 2013 02:58:18 PM
banjo said
11:19 PM Jul 1, 2013
Had the same trouble with mine, but as John said just a gentle pull as it came off and all was good.
Mine also occasionally twisted somehow when loading and ended up skewed to the rack, but again a push and pull as it did it and it was fine. Think its just the quirks of a roped system, but a good bit of kit all the same.
Mine was the electric drill operated one, so I just used to stop and walk around and do what it needed then carry on.
ROAD RUNNER said
03:45 AM Jul 2, 2013
Thanks men, I put the question to a Rhino retailer this afternoon and pretty well got the same answer so glad its not something I did wrong. Havent had a chance to use the boat as yet as Ive been busy making a suitable carry rack for the 15hp Merc on the front of the van and little bulld dog trailer for the rear bar. So far so good and keen to see how the tinnie performs. Thanks for your interest and reply, Eddy
justcruisin01 said
04:35 AM Jul 2, 2013
ROAD RUNNER wrote:
Also apart from using two tie down straps across the boat to secure to the rack would it be wise to also tie down the front of the boat to the bull bar?
DO NOT tie a tight rope/strap to the bull bar.
The chassis & bullbar move at different intervals to that of the body, so a very tight rope will put undue strain on both your boat , roof rack & most of all the roof of the vehicle. We used to see this done a lot in the past but not so much now, maybe they are learning.
Same result when a boat is bolted/clamped to the roof rack, in rough conditions the body flexing is absorbed through the boat & results in stress cracking.
Also with todays stringent regulations the law may see this as a vision obstruction.
JC.
Rheo47 said
09:55 AM Jul 2, 2013
JC,
I agree with you 100%. I travelled around Australia twice without the front rope. (Including 1000 odd Klms dirt roads, Gulf of Carpentertia) Tinnie hasnt moved at all. with regards to the A frame mounted outboard. Same thing. Made a t bracket, mounrted the 15HP 4 stroke Yamaha and it hasnt moved once. Just a tip. I have fitted hydrofoil wings to the shaft.. I had to remove the forward one as when I turned tightly backing into A Van park it touched the rear bumper corneer of the L/Cruiser and put a large dent in the bumper bar. With the help of a hot air gun gently heated the plastic and pushed out the dent. Like new again.
Hope this all helps guys.
-- Edited by Rheo47 on Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 09:58:18 AM
ROAD RUNNER said
04:32 AM Jul 5, 2013
Thanks for your advice blokes and makes sense, I wasnt keen to use a front rope as it would probably be irritating on the eyes after a while so will take your advice, regards Eddy
Hi, hoping someone can answer a couple of questions re Rhino boat loaders. I recently installed a secondhand Rhino boat loader on my LC 100.
Loading the 3.75 tinny appears to be fine using the hand winch however when unloading, the boat moves backwards a few feet and then slows to a halt due to the winch rope becoming loose on the winch roller and starts to "bunch up". I followed the installation instructions as best I could and cant figure it out? Any suggestions?.
Apart from a slight dome on the topside front of the tinny there is no other obstruction to the rollers as the gunnels are flat the whole length. I checked the balance point of the boat and rope length fitting instruction so all should be fine there.
Also apart from using two tie down straps across the boat to secure to the rack would it be wise to also tie down the front of the boat to the bull bar?
Oh yes, last question, the blue manual winch on the side incorporates a safety ratchet when winding the boat up but not when lowering to the ground as I found out when I let go of the handle by mistake and the boat fell to the ground. Is there a "double" ratchet winch out there? Regards RR
Hi Road Runner.
Ive had the Rhino boat loade for 14 years now. I did upgrade to the electric winch shortly after purchase . Your problem is common. With mine when backing the boat down to unload and it stops I stand on the tow bar and grasp the carry handles of the boat ot the rear (transom) and apply downward pressure , this alows the gunwhales of the boat to grip the rollers and away it goes. Apply this pressure when the ropes start to slaken.Dont be concerned when the boat starts to tip, it can only go so far. Depending on where you have placed your rollers on the tug, you may have to apply slight back pressure on the gunwhale to keep the rear going as it can stop, leaving the boat in the verticle position. Dont worry everything is very safe. I have forgoten how the reverse winch worked,
John"o
-- Edited by Rheo47 on Monday 1st of July 2013 02:58:18 PM
Mine also occasionally twisted somehow when loading and ended up skewed to the rack, but again a push and pull as it did it and it was fine. Think its just the quirks of a roped system, but a good bit of kit all the same.
Mine was the electric drill operated one, so I just used to stop and walk around and do what it needed then carry on.
DO NOT tie a tight rope/strap to the bull bar.
The chassis & bullbar move at different intervals to that of the body, so a very tight rope will put undue strain on both your boat , roof rack & most of all the roof of the vehicle. We used to see this done a lot in the past but not so much now, maybe they are learning.
Same result when a boat is bolted/clamped to the roof rack, in rough conditions the body flexing is absorbed through the boat & results in stress cracking.
Also with todays stringent regulations the law may see this as a vision obstruction.
JC.
JC,
I agree with you 100%. I travelled around Australia twice without the front rope. (Including 1000 odd Klms dirt roads, Gulf of Carpentertia) Tinnie hasnt moved at all. with regards to the A frame mounted outboard. Same thing. Made a t bracket, mounrted the 15HP 4 stroke Yamaha and it hasnt moved once. Just a tip. I have fitted hydrofoil wings to the shaft.. I had to remove the forward one as when I turned tightly backing into A Van park it touched the rear bumper corneer of the L/Cruiser and put a large dent in the bumper bar. With the help of a hot air gun gently heated the plastic and pushed out the dent. Like new again.
Hope this all helps guys.
-- Edited by Rheo47 on Tuesday 2nd of July 2013 09:58:18 AM