I would be getting it sorted out before I go on any long distance,as if the worst happens on some of that section of road you will be travelling it would be even a dearer experience than what appears to be wrong with it now...if you have it fixed here it may save you a lot of $$$ down the track... Even if you have brake down coverage a lot of the area you will be in has hit and miss phn coverage and not all those small towns don't have a brake down recovery service they have to come from miles away...I waited once for 5 hrs once between Burke and some little place ( the name just escapes me at the moment )..as the brake down service had calls to attend to before my time and the temp out there at the time was around 41c.
-- Edited by herbie on Wednesday 2nd of October 2013 08:26:49 PM
Happywanderer said
11:55 PM Oct 2, 2013
Took Myrtle in for a service today after coming back to Biggy for some final chores.
He tells me he suspects one of the valves is burnt out.
Should be ok for the trip back to Vic so I can get the original people to look into it.
What more can I say.
neilnruth said
12:28 AM Oct 3, 2013
Oh dear. Hope he's right about getting back OK. Take care HW. Don't get stuck anywhere along the way.
Dougwe said
12:39 AM Oct 3, 2013
Take it slow and easy Marj.
jules47 said
12:44 AM Oct 3, 2013
Take it easy and careful Marj - when do you hope to leave?
rockylizard said
12:45 AM Oct 3, 2013
Gday...
Bugger (and other unpublishable phrases and expressions)
I do hope the mechanic is right ... and it is 'possibly burnt valve'
This may make good reading so you are aware of what is involved ... might help when talking to other mechanics etc
Better to be forewarned than caught short. All the best - thoughts are with you
I'm out of here this Friday , but will be taking it real slow. Might take me a couple months as this could be my last trip.
Might be parking up at Greens permanently.
Dougwe said
12:51 AM Oct 3, 2013
I could think of worse places Marj, hope it doesn't come to that though.
Happywanderer said
12:58 AM Oct 3, 2013
Interesting John. I had no problems going down to Vic in June and coming back up in August. Also the mechanic here had not noticed anything untoward when he serviced it before I left in June.
He also asked if I knew about valve protector additive to put in fuel. Yes I have been doing that all the time.
The reason I am not doing anything about it up here is because I had the motor completely rebuilt/reconditioned 2 yrs ago this month in Echuca..probably out of guarantee, the local mechanic said usually 12 months or 20 thousand ks. Whichever comes first..
I've done roughly 15,000 ks.
jules47 said
01:00 AM Oct 3, 2013
Greens is lovely - even with 140k per hour winds, intermittent rain, and a bit cool!!!!! Looks gorgeous at the moment!!!!
Happywanderer said
01:04 AM Oct 3, 2013
I bet it does. Look foward to spending some months there while working out what happens next.
justcruisin01 said
02:43 AM Oct 3, 2013
Happywanderer wrote:
Took Myrtle in for a service today after coming back to Biggy for some final chores.
He tells me he suspects one of the valves is burnt out.
Should be ok for the trip back to Vic so I can get the original people to look into it.
What more can I say.
If he is correct then no way would I drive a vehicle that far.
The possibile damage that could be done as a result of a long trip could be far more expensive than the cost of having it checked here.
IF you have any warranty left contact the people that done the job & ask for an ok to have it looked at where you are.
A vehicle of that era may still have a manual adjustment setting of the clearance between the valve stem & rocker (thats the bit that opens & closes the valve).
IF this has been set incorrect then it causes the valve to be held open slightly, giving the same sound effect & a miss in the motor.
IF this is the case & you catch it quickly you may just save the day, depends how long it has been happening for.
Its not a real big job just to check the adjustments if this is the system fitted.(the other system is called hydraulic)
Worse case of a long trip, damage to cylinder head, chance of a section of valve burn/break off & get crunched up by the piston which will render damage to that as well.
DOLLAR WISE; Have it looked at ASAP.
JC.
jules47 said
02:49 AM Oct 3, 2013
Good advice there Marj!!!
Bryan said
03:03 AM Oct 3, 2013
jules47 wrote:
Good advice there Marj!!!
Agreed
Happywanderer said
04:39 AM Oct 3, 2013
Thanks. Will go back and see him tomorrow.
Baz421 said
05:04 AM Oct 3, 2013
Marj just an idea.
We use Repco Authorised Service Centres now as they an Aust wide warranty,,, maybe worth considering and from my limited experience with interstate motoring organisations I believe most Repco ASC's are endorsed by them.
Also if compression test shows leakage don't drive to Vic,,, get it fixed.
Hope this helps,,, good luck.
Sheba said
05:24 AM Oct 3, 2013
Marj, if you're in the RACQ, or equivalent, [ each State usually has reciprocal deals] why not get them to check it out? Just a thought.
Cheers,
Sheba.
Happywanderer said
05:31 AM Oct 3, 2013
Hi Sheba, I'm with RACV and the service centre here in Biggy where I get all my work done is the registered RACQ for the area.
Will go and see him tomorrow and run him through all the suggestions here and see what happens
shekon said
05:51 AM Oct 3, 2013
Do take care Marj. I would also be nervous driving that far if a possible problem. Get myrtle sorted so we can do a tag along sometime. Be careful and stay safe.
Kiwi-as said
06:03 AM Oct 3, 2013
Not a good month for us Kiwi's, eh Marj.
Aus-Kiwi said
06:27 AM Oct 3, 2013
Yep check tappet clearance.. Chances are there's a tight valve ??
Dougwe said
02:27 PM Oct 3, 2013
Glad to see you have taken good advice given by all Marj. JC must have changed his mind about "Wizbangs" to give you such great advice that he did
_wombat_ said
02:37 PM Oct 3, 2013
sorry to hear about Myrtle, if she is sick then she needs a medical asap to sort her out before she get's any worse.
beiffe said
03:17 PM Oct 3, 2013
It may be some carbon on a valve seat.
I have used a small amount of diesel in a petrol motor to clear carbon from valve faces etc.
In bad cases I have dribbled neat diesel through the carby. Start the motor as normal and then with the air cleaner off dribble diesel out of a syringe. If there is carbon you will hear when it lets go as the motor will pick up.
In my boat with an old motor I used to run about a cap of diesel per tank of fuel to keep the carbon at bay. if I missed it for a few trips it would start playing up but the adding of a bit of diesel all was OK.
I would expect the mechanics will either confirm or deny it but it is a cheap method to try and you never know it may work for your vehicle and cant do any harm.
Regards
Brian
Happywanderer said
05:11 PM Oct 3, 2013
Myrtle back at service centre. He's going to do compression test and test a few thing including the clearance etc.
One way or other he will either reassure me she will be ok for trip to Vic or its a disaster and I won't be going anywhere.
Duh said
05:37 PM Oct 3, 2013
We'll keep our fingers and legs crossed for you! Let's hope it's something that won't be too much!
jules47 said
05:38 PM Oct 3, 2013
Fingers crossed Marj - hope it is nothing serious - best to get it done up there though!
QueenKombi said
05:39 PM Oct 3, 2013
Happywanderer wrote:
Myrtle back at service centre. He's going to do compression test and test a few thing including the clearance etc. One way or other he will either reassure me she will be ok for trip to Vic or its a disaster and I won't be going anywhere.
Not sure what kind of engine you have, alloy head of cast iron, but if it's a Jap engine probably alloy.
We have had lengthy discussion in our VW circles about using "valve saver" in our vehicles, some for, some against. One of our regulars is a well know expert on all things VW and a mechanic by trade. He says he would never use it. He says it eventually builds up under a valve seat and prevents the valve from closing properly. Once the valve is held open, uncontrolled heat due to combustion pours through it like a blow torch and quickly burns the valve away. Also, as early as these VW engines are, they were originally set up to run on lead free fuel because of the European design even though super was recommended in Australia, however we always use the highest octane fuel we can get hold of. The engines run cooler and we actually get better economy too. On his advice, I stopped using the valve saver some time ago and so far haven't experienced any problems.
The above (of course) relates to early air cooled VW's, but I'm wondering if the same principle applies to other alloy head engines. I know alloy heads handle gas better than the old cast iron varieties because they were already fitted with hardened valve seats which is the same principle as using fuel without super. The lead additive only supplied a cushion for the valve seats in older cars. There's no lead in either gas or ULP.
Hopefully it's just a matter of a "tight" vale adjustment and you'll be back on the road soon. Please keep us informed. I'd be very interested in the outcome.
barina said
05:43 PM Oct 3, 2013
I hope it can be sorted for you at minimal $$$$'s
justcruisin01 said
05:49 PM Oct 3, 2013
Happywanderer wrote:
Myrtle back at service centre. He's going to do compression test and test a few thing including the clearance etc. One way or other he will either reassure me she will be ok for trip to Vic or its a disaster and I won't be going anywhere.
A compression test is one thing, only gives you a the difference in compressions between cylinders.NOT the cause of the prob.
He needs to do a air pressure test in each cylinder, that is a air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole,piston on top dead centre of compression stroke & apply air pressure, this will tell weather its a inlet or exhaust valve or a damaged piston/rings.
I would be getting it sorted out before I go on any long distance,as if the worst happens on some of that section of road you will be travelling it would be even a dearer experience than what appears to be wrong with it now...if you have it fixed here it may save you a lot of $$$ down the track... Even if you have brake down coverage a lot of the area you will be in has hit and miss phn coverage and not all those small towns don't have a brake down recovery service they have to come from miles away...I waited once for 5 hrs once between Burke and some little place ( the name just escapes me at the moment )..as the brake down service had calls to attend to before my time and the temp out there at the time was around 41c.
-- Edited by herbie on Wednesday 2nd of October 2013 08:26:49 PM
Took Myrtle in for a service today after coming back to Biggy for some final chores.
He tells me he suspects one of the valves is burnt out.
Should be ok for the trip back to Vic so I can get the original people to look into it.
What more can I say.
Gday...
Bugger (and other unpublishable phrases and expressions)
I do hope the mechanic is right ... and it is 'possibly burnt valve'
This may make good reading so you are aware of what is involved ... might help when talking to other mechanics etc
Better to be forewarned than caught short. All the best - thoughts are with you
http://www.ssch.com.au/trade-news/a-basic-guide-to-engine-valve-failure/
Cheers - John
Might be parking up at Greens permanently.
He also asked if I knew about valve protector additive to put in fuel. Yes I have been doing that all the time.
The reason I am not doing anything about it up here is because I had the motor completely rebuilt/reconditioned 2 yrs ago this month in Echuca..probably out of guarantee, the local mechanic said usually 12 months or 20 thousand ks. Whichever comes first..
I've done roughly 15,000 ks.
If he is correct then no way would I drive a vehicle that far.
The possibile damage that could be done as a result of a long trip could be far more expensive than the cost of having it checked here.
IF you have any warranty left contact the people that done the job & ask for an ok to have it looked at where you are.
A vehicle of that era may still have a manual adjustment setting of the clearance between the valve stem & rocker (thats the bit that opens & closes the valve).
IF this has been set incorrect then it causes the valve to be held open slightly, giving the same sound effect & a miss in the motor.
IF this is the case & you catch it quickly you may just save the day, depends how long it has been happening for.
Its not a real big job just to check the adjustments if this is the system fitted.(the other system is called hydraulic)
Worse case of a long trip, damage to cylinder head, chance of a section of valve burn/break off & get crunched up by the piston which will render damage to that as well.
DOLLAR WISE; Have it looked at ASAP.
JC.
Agreed
Marj just an idea.
We use Repco Authorised Service Centres now as they an Aust wide warranty,,, maybe worth considering and from my limited experience with interstate motoring organisations I believe most Repco ASC's are endorsed by them.
Also if compression test shows leakage don't drive to Vic,,, get it fixed.
Hope this helps,,, good luck.
Marj, if you're in the RACQ, or equivalent, [ each State usually has reciprocal deals] why not get them to check it out? Just a thought.
Cheers,
Sheba.
Will go and see him tomorrow and run him through all the suggestions here and see what happens
Glad to see you have taken good advice given by all Marj. JC must have changed his mind about "Wizbangs" to give you such great advice that he did
sorry to hear about Myrtle, if she is sick then she needs a medical asap to sort her out before she get's any worse.
I have used a small amount of diesel in a petrol motor to clear carbon from valve faces etc.
In bad cases I have dribbled neat diesel through the carby. Start the motor as normal and then with the air cleaner off dribble diesel out of a syringe. If there is carbon you will hear when it lets go as the motor will pick up.
In my boat with an old motor I used to run about a cap of diesel per tank of fuel to keep the carbon at bay. if I missed it for a few trips it would start playing up but the adding of a bit of diesel all was OK.
I would expect the mechanics will either confirm or deny it but it is a cheap method to try and you never know it may work for your vehicle and cant do any harm.
Regards
Brian
One way or other he will either reassure me she will be ok for trip to Vic or its a disaster and I won't be going anywhere.
We'll keep our fingers and legs crossed for you! Let's hope it's something that won't be too much!
Not sure what kind of engine you have, alloy head of cast iron, but if it's a Jap engine probably alloy.
We have had lengthy discussion in our VW circles about using "valve saver" in our vehicles, some for, some against. One of our regulars is a well know expert on all things VW and a mechanic by trade. He says he would never use it. He says it eventually builds up under a valve seat and prevents the valve from closing properly. Once the valve is held open, uncontrolled heat due to combustion pours through it like a blow torch and quickly burns the valve away. Also, as early as these VW engines are, they were originally set up to run on lead free fuel because of the European design even though super was recommended in Australia, however we always use the highest octane fuel we can get hold of. The engines run cooler and we actually get better economy too. On his advice, I stopped using the valve saver some time ago and so far haven't experienced any problems.
The above (of course) relates to early air cooled VW's, but I'm wondering if the same principle applies to other alloy head engines. I know alloy heads handle gas better than the old cast iron varieties because they were already fitted with hardened valve seats which is the same principle as using fuel without super. The lead additive only supplied a cushion for the valve seats in older cars. There's no lead in either gas or ULP.
Hopefully it's just a matter of a "tight" vale adjustment and you'll be back on the road soon. Please keep us informed. I'd be very interested in the outcome.
I hope it can be sorted for you at minimal $$$$'s
A compression test is one thing, only gives you a the difference in compressions between cylinders.NOT the cause of the prob.
He needs to do a air pressure test in each cylinder, that is a air fitting that screws into the spark plug hole,piston on top dead centre of compression stroke & apply air pressure, this will tell weather its a inlet or exhaust valve or a damaged piston/rings.
JC.