Our motorhome has 3x100amp house batteries. These are now 6 yrs old and thought we might change them to 3x 130amp batteries. The 130's will fit no problem.
My question is: Can I just disconnect the 3 batteries and swap them over and reconnect the new ones or should I isolate the house from the engine battery using the isolation switch?
Thanks for all and any help
B+E
patrol03 said
04:09 PM Aug 27, 2016
to be on the safe side Iwould isolate the start battery.
PeterD said
07:07 PM Aug 27, 2016
Check to see if there is a device to disconnect the house battery from the vehicle electrical system when the motor is not running. The batteries should be installed that way, if not you can be left without a way to start your motor if you run all the batteries down.
Cruising Cruze said
07:35 PM Aug 27, 2016
@ B&E
Maybe install an DC-DC charger as well ( I know $$$ )
Cheers John
macka17 said
12:55 AM Aug 28, 2016
Hi.
Normally a rig will have one Starter battery. and several(to suit) house battery's
Set up separately.
I'd have a separate starter batt.(85-100 a Extreme or similar.)
with the two Golf buggy etc 130a Housebatt's on completely separate circuit.
Mayb an electronic splitter under bonnet.
I also carry a Generator and 40a Smartcharger in tray and 25a charger in van
that can link to ute if necessary.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:26 PM Aug 28, 2016
Is there a relay or contactor between the house and motor battery ? Tape or use red paint to ID + terminal . Best done with no load ..
Tony Bev said
12:16 AM Aug 29, 2016
Hello Bas + Eve
I am not an electrician
If there is a mechanical isolation switch between the Engine and House Batteries, then always turn it off
When you remove the house batteries, always remove all the negative leads first, before you remove the positive leads
When fitting the new house batteries, always fit all the positive leads first, and the negative leads last
Then switch on the isolation switch
Hope this info helps you out
oldtrack123 said
11:34 PM Aug 29, 2016
Cruising Cruze wrote:
@ B&E
Maybe install an DC-DC charger as well ( I know $$$ )
Cheers John
WHY???
His batteries have lasted 6 years ,so I doubt he has a charging problem!!!
All that a dc /Dc charger will do is limit the max charge current to it's rating,20 or40A ,instead of the full alternator amps being available
To the OP ,do as others have said ,remove the neg lead from the crank battery
Connect all new l battery pos together, then connect the pos cables load & charger ,etc cable , next all the neg including load etc cables,
then the house battery earth cable finally refit the crank neg cable ,
that reduces the chances of some big sparks if you accidentally earth something
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Monday 29th of August 2016 11:43:47 PM
Murraman said
07:51 PM Sep 11, 2016
If you have solar panels either do it when it is dark or throw a blanket over them when connect/disconnect the house batts, I do the latter to be sure.
robol said
10:53 AM Sep 12, 2016
Hi Allan.
I connected a couple of High Current DC Circuit Breakers from Jaycar. One for the negative cables and the other for positive cables coming from solar panels, before the regulator. These are switchable on/off, so saves me the trouble of covering panels if I need to. Only around $23 each and have come in handy so far, much easier than climbing up on the roof.
Cheers Rob.
Our motorhome has 3x100amp house batteries. These are now 6 yrs old and thought we might change them to 3x 130amp batteries. The 130's will fit no problem.
My question is: Can I just disconnect the 3 batteries and swap them over and reconnect the new ones or should I isolate the house from the engine battery using the isolation switch?
Thanks for all and any help
B+E
Maybe install an DC-DC charger as well ( I know $$$ )
Cheers John
Normally a rig will have one Starter battery. and several(to suit) house battery's
Set up separately.
I'd have a separate starter batt.(85-100 a Extreme or similar.)
with the two Golf buggy etc 130a Housebatt's on completely separate circuit.
Mayb an electronic splitter under bonnet.
I also carry a Generator and 40a Smartcharger in tray and 25a charger in van
that can link to ute if necessary.
I am not an electrician
If there is a mechanical isolation switch between the Engine and House Batteries, then always turn it off
When you remove the house batteries, always remove all the negative leads first, before you remove the positive leads
When fitting the new house batteries, always fit all the positive leads first, and the negative leads last
Then switch on the isolation switch
Hope this info helps you out
WHY???
His batteries have lasted 6 years ,so I doubt he has a charging problem!!!
All that a dc /Dc charger will do is limit the max charge current to it's rating,20 or40A ,instead of the full alternator amps being available
To the OP ,do as others have said ,remove the neg lead from the crank battery
Connect all new l battery pos together, then connect the pos cables load & charger ,etc cable , next all the neg including load etc cables,
then the house battery earth cable finally refit the crank neg cable ,
that reduces the chances of some big sparks if you accidentally earth something
-- Edited by oldtrack123 on Monday 29th of August 2016 11:43:47 PM
I connected a couple of High Current DC Circuit Breakers from Jaycar. One for the negative cables and the other for positive cables coming from solar panels, before the regulator. These are switchable on/off, so saves me the trouble of covering panels if I need to. Only around $23 each and have come in handy so far, much easier than climbing up on the roof.
Cheers Rob.