We have 120w folding solar panels ,and was wondering what is the best chain, to secure them to the front draw bar of Van, to stop stick fingers from walking off with them
( don't want to use the one we used to pull tractors out of the bog)
robol said
09:04 AM Oct 25, 2016
Masterlock have a plastic coated cable made up of multi strand stainless steel which is very hard to cut. They are a one piece unit, lock and cable and can be bought at Bunnings. Nothing is really that secure anymore with battery powered angle grinders.
Cheers Rob.
elliemike said
09:25 AM Oct 25, 2016
Cowboy7307 wrote:
We have 120w folding solar panels ,and was wondering what is the best chain, to secure them to the front draw bar of Van, to stop stick fingers from walking off with them
( don't want to use the one we used to pull tractors out of the bog)
I have never had anything stolen while camping. Never Chained My solar Panels or Sat Dish. Suppose there's always a first time for everything. Ellie and I have camped, using tents, cars Kombi, Motor home, Caravan, camper trailers extensively in Europe, North America, Australia, and NZ, over about 50 + years on and off. Never had a problem. Probably lucky I suppose.
But do use a Bicycle lock and wire rope or chain on my fuel Jerry Cans when I carry them.
Dougwe said
11:14 AM Oct 25, 2016
How, David,
I use stainless steel cable purchased from the big green shed, a loop made each end and a nice big padlock with a strange looking key. Just ask the shed man for the fitting that is for the loops (Crimps). I use a cole chisel and hammer to close them instead of buying the tool. Works well for me. Naturally anything only stops the passer by, a real thief will come prepared.
-- Edited by Dougwe on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:55:20 PM
Treecrest14 said
11:24 AM Oct 25, 2016
Our son lost his Solar panel while free camping a few years ago. Now I use a long stainless steel wire with loops (like Doug) and have the lock on the panel with the loop thru the drawbar. I know it wont stop a very determined person who has a battery powered grinder, but it does deter the opportunist.
Cowboy7307 said
11:32 AM Oct 25, 2016
thanks for replies and info
Tony Bev said
12:24 PM Oct 25, 2016
Hello Cowboy7307
It may pay to put your rego number on the panel, as well as a locked cable, when in a camp close to civilisation
Many years ago on a ride called employment in remote areas, it was very inconvenient when the light finger people would do their magic stuff, and make tools such as portable drills/angle grinders etc, disappear The serial number of these tools was on a sticker which is easily removed.
When we started to engrave the tools with the serial number, the magic suddenly stopped
Therefore in my opinion (so I could be wrong)
A well marked solar panel may not stop the professional thief, but it may deter the opportunity type thief
Hope this info is useful to you
T1 Terry said
12:30 PM Oct 25, 2016
Agree with the stainless cable and crimp to form the loops. We ran the stainless cable along side the 6 B&S cable secured with bits of heat shrink every 500mm so the two roll up together. A loop at each Anderson plug, one end to the drawbar or bull bar and the other end a cable and loop from each panel with a padlock linking them all together. You won't stop a determined thief, he will steal the solar panels off the roof rack if he really wants them, but the bulky package locking all together just makes it a difficult operation to simply walk off as the solar panel cables must be cut along with the stainless cable, lots of sparks and noise so hard to do without anyone hearing the noise and checking it out and the bundle as a whole would require quite a bit of team work to pick up and walk off. The idea is to make it too hard for an easy grab and run, thieves won't the easy way so they will look for an easier target. Certainly gets lots of lookers and attention and that is the real key to security, lots of eyes watching
T1 Terry
macka17 said
12:55 PM Oct 25, 2016
Folding panels . in reality. give "not worth the trouble" more output than flat fixed.
Just rivet them down and forget.
I had coupla 40 watters yrs ago. (ex yacht) after a while of in/out. up/down. Move/move. Forget it.
You've got to be seriously keen to be moving round 120watters. Stick 'em on the roof mate. Like near everybody else.
Just fit a coupla oversize pistons or springs if a pop top.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:57:17 PM
Folding panels . in reality. give "not worth the trouble" more output than flat fixed.
Just rivet them down and forget.
I had coupla 40 watters yrs ago. (ex yacht) after a while of in/out. up/down. Move/move. Forget it.
You've got to be seriously keen to be moving round 120watters. Stick 'em on the roof mate. Like near everybody else.
Just fit a coupla oversize pistons or springs if a pop top.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:57:17 PM
Fairly obvious this opinion is not base on actual testing. Fact is the input is approx. 50% to 80% more correctly angled to the sun compared to flat mounted if average throughout the day. If you were moving them every 30 mins or so the improvement would be even better, but 3 or 4 moves from sun up to sun down will see a very large improvement in solar harvesting.
Naturally the wiring needs to be heavy enough for the job and the regulator mounted at the battery, not on the solar panel, otherwise it is a complete waste of effort and fix panels with suitable wiring would give a better performance.
T1 Terry
macka17 said
05:04 PM Oct 25, 2016
Like I said. For the normal person. just stick an extra panel up there. (which helps in cloudy conditions too) and you won't notice anything worthwhile.
We've been using panels since the '70's. fixed. solid, Flexible. cone. double sided (They ain't bad, raised with reflector plate under them.) You name it. on Houses. yachts and mobile.
I've still got a 24v Marine wind genny, with 9 ft post in shed.
Even the old Solarex. BP etc when they get old. One side breaks down ( 2 x 6v bridged) couple 2 together in boatyards, gives 12v. or 4 x 6 for 24 v. Just Utilising the throwaway stuff.
I used to get them from Solarex Factory in North Adel for $20 ea. 40-50w was biggest. 25 to 30 yrs ago.
When I started. 5 w and less. were the biggest on market. Telstra bush phones panels were the first "available" units in those days.
One bike trip a couple of us were on. we came upon a stockpile Telstra had parked there. for installs. Around 40/50. and us on 250/400 dirt bikes. Bummer.
Fixed. Mono with NO shadow will give as much as anything. over a 12hr cycle. in that periods variable cloud/sun/temp outputs. It's NEVER constant for long..PLUS.
Good heat insulation INside the van Add Heatproof paint like me.
and I park van in sun to get full rediation on panels.
Paint and reflections from, keep van cool.
The little actual less on a good day
is covered by the extra one or two panels. and as said. they pay for themselves in cloud and sun variances.
Just bolt them down. and like myself have an 80/100w on roof of car/ute for extra battery's and plug to help van when needed. Much more practical. I never worried about paper figures. Just what actually works in real life over time.
And whichever way you go. Enjoy it and wear your tyres out OK.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 05:06:43 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 05:10:49 PM
Aus-Kiwi said
08:36 PM Oct 25, 2016
Thought of painting orange ? Or Pink ? I often wire or tie things together . Being motorhome we leave table etc behind to keep our place . In 4 years I've been theft free . Now I've said that !! Lol . Sorry for posting on EVERYTHING . I'm home now !! Lol begging to get back out there ! Aha
Hylife said
04:02 PM Oct 26, 2016
Without getting into the debate over fixed or portable panels, I'll answer the OPs question.
Forget about chains. They are too easy to cut with a set of small bolt cutters unless they are some bl00dy heavy duty chains.
We have 120w folding solar panels ,and was wondering what is the best chain, to secure them to the front draw bar of Van, to stop stick fingers from walking off with them
( don't want to use the one we used to pull tractors out of the bog)
Cheers Rob.
I have never had anything stolen while camping. Never Chained My solar Panels or Sat Dish. Suppose there's always a first time for everything. Ellie and I have camped, using tents, cars Kombi, Motor home, Caravan, camper trailers extensively in Europe, North America, Australia, and NZ, over about 50 + years on and off. Never had a problem. Probably lucky I suppose.
But do use a Bicycle lock and wire rope or chain on my fuel Jerry Cans when I carry them.
How, David,
I use stainless steel cable purchased from the big green shed, a loop made each end and a nice big padlock with a strange looking key. Just ask the shed man for the fitting that is for the loops (Crimps). I use a cole chisel and hammer to close them instead of buying the tool. Works well for me. Naturally anything only stops the passer by, a real thief will come prepared.
-- Edited by Dougwe on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:55:20 PM
thanks for replies and info
Hello Cowboy7307
It may pay to put your rego number on the panel, as well as a locked cable, when in a camp close to civilisation
Many years ago on a ride called employment in remote areas, it was very inconvenient when the light finger people would do their magic stuff, and make tools such as portable drills/angle grinders etc, disappear
The serial number of these tools was on a sticker which is easily removed.
When we started to engrave the tools with the serial number, the magic suddenly stopped
Therefore in my opinion (so I could be wrong)
A well marked solar panel may not stop the professional thief, but it may deter the opportunity type thief
Hope this info is useful to you
T1 Terry
Folding panels . in reality. give "not worth the trouble" more output than flat fixed.
Just rivet them down and forget.
I had coupla 40 watters yrs ago. (ex yacht)
after a while of in/out. up/down. Move/move.
Forget it.
You've got to be seriously keen to be moving round 120watters.
Stick 'em on the roof mate. Like near everybody else.
Just fit a coupla oversize pistons or springs if a pop top.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:57:17 PM
Fairly obvious this opinion is not base on actual testing. Fact is the input is approx. 50% to 80% more correctly angled to the sun compared to flat mounted if average throughout the day. If you were moving them every 30 mins or so the improvement would be even better, but 3 or 4 moves from sun up to sun down will see a very large improvement in solar harvesting.
Naturally the wiring needs to be heavy enough for the job and the regulator mounted at the battery, not on the solar panel, otherwise it is a complete waste of effort and fix panels with suitable wiring would give a better performance.
T1 Terry
Like I said.
For the normal person. just stick an extra panel up there.
(which helps in cloudy conditions too)
and you won't notice anything worthwhile.
We've been using panels since the '70's. fixed. solid, Flexible. cone. double sided
(They ain't bad, raised with reflector plate under them.) You name it.
on Houses. yachts and mobile.
I've still got a 24v Marine wind genny, with 9 ft post in shed.
Even the old Solarex. BP etc when they get old. One side breaks down ( 2 x 6v bridged)
couple 2 together in boatyards, gives 12v. or 4 x 6 for 24 v.
Just Utilising the throwaway stuff.
I used to get them from Solarex Factory in North Adel for $20 ea.
40-50w was biggest. 25 to 30 yrs ago.
When I started. 5 w and less. were the biggest on market.
Telstra bush phones panels were the first "available" units in those days.
One bike trip a couple of us were on.
we came upon a stockpile Telstra had parked there.
for installs.
Around 40/50. and us on 250/400 dirt bikes.
Bummer.
Fixed. Mono with NO shadow will give as much as anything.
over a 12hr cycle. in that periods variable cloud/sun/temp outputs.
It's NEVER constant for long..PLUS.
Good heat insulation INside the van Add Heatproof paint like me.
and I park van in sun to get full rediation on panels.
Paint and reflections from, keep van cool.
The little actual less on a good day
is covered by the extra one or two panels. and as said.
they pay for themselves in cloud and sun variances.
Just bolt them down. and like myself have an 80/100w on roof of car/ute for extra battery's and plug to help van when needed.
Much more practical.
I never worried about paper figures.
Just what actually works in real life over time.
And whichever way you go.
Enjoy it and wear your tyres out OK.
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 05:06:43 PM
-- Edited by macka17 on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 05:10:49 PM
Without getting into the debate over fixed or portable panels, I'll answer the OPs question.
Forget about chains. They are too easy to cut with a set of small bolt cutters unless they are some bl00dy heavy duty chains.
Instead google 'Motorcycle disk lock alarm'.
https://www.google.com.au/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=0zYQWKbwENPr8AfF9qSIAg&gws_rd=ssl#q=motorcycle+disk+lock+alarm
Bunning have them for $33 each.
A simple small 8mm hole in the aluminium frame and you clip it on.
Any movement results in very loud warning chirps. Continued movement results in an earsplitting 110db alarm.