Lift kit, suspension, weight distribution hitch, levelling..What to do????
Stenno said
09:19 PM Feb 21, 2017
Hello everyone,
We've got a 2015 GXL 'standard' Prado and we love it! We just upgraded our Goldstream Goldstar camper to a full size caravan about 2300kg. It doesn't sit too badly, but it is sagging a little in the rear, we are heading to Uluru in July and think it best to get it level for obvious reasons travelling a good distance. Different people have different ideas of course and seeking views and experience whether we lift the Prado, get a hitch, do both. We are genuinely not sure and the advice from our 2 van places locally are polar opposites...Any help or ideas would truly be welcomed! Thanks in advance!!
Hetho said
10:23 PM Feb 21, 2017
Hi Stenno.
Just to clarify, is the van sagging at the rear or the Tug?
Regards.
Hetho.
brickies said
11:17 PM Feb 21, 2017
I also have a Prado and use a WDH , You get those for and against on here has well .
The Belmont Bear said
07:31 AM Feb 22, 2017
Hi, Stenno I tow a van around 2600kg (loaded) with a Pajero Sport using a HR WDH but I wasn't happy with the way that it was bouncing over undulating surfaces. We have just returned from our latest trip after fitting air bags to the rear coils which I inflated to only 12 PSI while still using the WDH - a whole lot better. The best thing about the air bags is I can let the air out and soften the ride again when I'm not towing, might not work for everyone but it seems to work for me.
KevinC said
08:13 AM Feb 22, 2017
G'day Stenno, Welcome to the forum.
The WDH will get some weight back on the front wheels of the tug, pretty important for steering and braking, but a WDH is not for fixing suspension problems. Mine seems to reduce porpoising when the road surface is undulating, but not everyone experiences this. If your suspension doesn't take the load then fix that with a suspension upgrade. I think the Belmont Bear is on the money with his setup.
Good luck.
Stenno said
01:22 PM Feb 22, 2017
Really appreciate everyone coming back with ideas-thank you! I've got a WDH now, not sure of the brand, however, I can't 'lift' the bars high enough to take the load as there is no chain left to pull up....,ð Hope this makes sense. Will keep on thinking it through. Thanks again gents.
KevinC said
01:41 PM Feb 22, 2017
Stenno wrote:
I've got a WDH now, not sure of the brand, however, I can't 'lift' the bars high enough to take the load as there is no chain left to pull up
I have to say there are hundreds of possibilities for your problem so without a bit more detail we are guessing. Maybe it's time for a photo to show us exactly how the WDH is configured.
It could be possible to tilt the WDH housing slightly backwards so the back ends of the bars point lower towards the ground. Thus the chains would need to be loaded more to enable them to reach. If I've misinterpreted your explanation, then by tilting the housing slightly forwards, the back ends of the bars will point higher enabling the chains to reach. On the Hayman Reese design, there are spacers in the housing allowing this simple adjustment.
Could it be that the ball on the Prado is too high, making the WDH ineffective?
Many, many, many possibilties.
macka17 said
01:53 PM Feb 22, 2017
Hi.
BEFORE you go anywhere. Find some scales and weigh both the van and the car. Preferably at home. and do two. One with them empty and later with them loaded. INCLUDE the drawbar weight with both sessions.
When loaded find level ground. Put them together, in line BUT not hitched. Is the car level?? If a Tandem, Is the van level with jacks UP? WITH a sensible drawbar weight.
Internet. 2 x bathroom scales and a piece of timber can do that.
If over\under. level\even the internal load there first. B4 worrying about water tanks, spares, jerry cans etc externally.
Do same with car.
Measure the wheel arch internal top face, to TOP or bottom of wheel rim. NOT ground. Front and back.
Load car so it sitting fairly level and arch measurements pretty even.
Couple them up. look along the bottom line of them both. are they pretty much a straight line?
A small variation can be easily controlled by WDH chain adjustments.
Basically tighten chains till CAR wheel arch measurements are within (preferably) 1\2 in to 1 inch of each other.
and Gross combined weights within YOUR limits. With CAR heavier than tow by as much as possible for safety.
The car you can take down to scales by itself to cover that weight.
A Tandem van sitting level and with decent drawbar weight is safely balanced usually. I like a heavy drawbar (350kg plus on a 3 ton van. And around 150 to 250kg on smaller vans depending on vans weight.
Try NOT to go BELOW 120\150kg though, with any van. You NEED the weight ON driving wheels ear of tug.
There are plenty of diagrams and figures on Net and van forums.
Just remember. a rig with heavier tug than tow. is a LOT safer.. Regardless of legalities. than one level weight to or lighter than the tow. I like to keep a minimum of 400kg's heavier than any tow I have. This van is around 850kg lighter than ute. Prev Patrol with 6.5mtr van varied from 430 to 850 kg heavier than van. usually travel with EMPTY water tanks.(3 x 90ltrs is a lot of weight. just take a 20 ltr can in rear of car.
Be careful with "Airbags".
The next veh with bent chassis won'tbe the first.
I have my coil suspensions set up for touring.towing.
With "Progressive rate" coils. one size up from std.
They give softer springing in first coupla inches.
then the main body of coil takes weight of full rear load,
with\without tug.
With leaf springs. I have a good set of leaves.
Then add a half leaf helper set to rears for van\trlr loading.
Allows normal springing for normal use , and takes extra load of trlr etc.
-- Edited by macka17 on Wednesday 22nd of February 2017 02:16:44 PM
Big Mal said
05:45 PM Feb 22, 2017
A picture would be the place to start otherwise everyone is stabbing in the dark...............especially one of yoour WDH set up as something is not right.......
I always prefer to upgrade the suspension first then go to WDH...............
macka17 said
02:52 PM Feb 23, 2017
Whoops.
IF when you line them up on the flat. THEY are level, and the ball BASE.. not in line with the flat of cup on van.
Get that right first.
Adjust height of ball on car.
Bryan said
03:37 PM Feb 23, 2017
I agree with Belmont Bear and have used air bags on my last two tugs, both with rear coil suspension. The only bent chassis I've seen are when air bags are fitted to utes with leaf springs. Reasons stated by others are that the top of the curve in the chassis is not reinforced as it is not designed to carry a load.
macka17 said
11:17 PM Feb 23, 2017
Airbags inside coils ok. But I preferred the prog rate coils
After trying both ways.
Personal choices.
With the leaf springs.
Airbags are ok. IF. you reinforce the sect of chassis rail t'ween hangers to take stress.
Half or full length. "Helper springs" do a more even spread of load.
sharing it between the three points of the leaf susp.
Nothing on rails.
Stronger. OR pump up shocks can do the extra if needed.
While Sticking to the factory designed einforced mounting points.
I've seen a few torn\Blown Airbags. (Specially Firestone)
on corrugations and rough dirt roads.
John Kay said
09:53 PM Feb 28, 2017
Hi Stenno, You can get yourself a DVD from Hayman Reese how to set up a WDH, or watch it on You Tube. Cheers John.
meetoo said
11:28 PM Feb 28, 2017
Hi Stenno, once you are able to start making some sense of all this, try one thing at a time, instead of going the whole hog with everything at once.
Cheers, John.
Bello said
07:59 AM Mar 1, 2017
G'day, I tow an 2500kg offroad type 'van with a 2008 Pathfinder. The 4b has aftermarket suspension giving it a 50mm lift, the change was done for towing not for the lift, also airbags, I use a maximum 25psi, this is not to "lift" the rear,it is just to stop the bounce, and I use Haymen Reese WDH.
All has been weighed, and leveled and tows great. You do need a little weight on the ball. I have travelled a lot of K's around our country with this rig, goes great.
You need to do what suits your vehicle and where you go and what you do.
Good luck , make it safe.
Bello
Stenno said
01:03 PM Apr 3, 2017
Thank you everyone for your help, I got the hitch all sorted out and it has lifted perfectly. Really appreciate everyone's comments. Cheers.
Hello everyone,
We've got a 2015 GXL 'standard' Prado and we love it! We just upgraded our Goldstream Goldstar camper to a full size caravan about 2300kg. It doesn't sit too badly, but it is sagging a little in the rear, we are heading to Uluru in July and think it best to get it level for obvious reasons travelling a good distance. Different people have different ideas of course and seeking views and experience whether we lift the Prado, get a hitch, do both. We are genuinely not sure and the advice from our 2 van places locally are polar opposites...Any help or ideas would truly be welcomed! Thanks in advance!!
Hi Stenno.
Just to clarify, is the van sagging at the rear or the Tug?
Regards.
Hetho.
The WDH will get some weight back on the front wheels of the tug, pretty important for steering and braking, but a WDH is not for fixing suspension problems. Mine seems to reduce porpoising when the road surface is undulating, but not everyone experiences this. If your suspension doesn't take the load then fix that with a suspension upgrade. I think the Belmont Bear is on the money with his setup.
Good luck.
Hi.
BEFORE you go anywhere.
Find some scales and weigh both the van and the car.
Preferably at home. and do two.
One with them empty and later with them loaded.
INCLUDE the drawbar weight with both sessions.
When loaded find level ground. Put them together, in line BUT not hitched.
Is the car level??
If a Tandem, Is the van level with jacks UP? WITH a sensible drawbar weight.
Internet. 2 x bathroom scales and a piece of timber can do that.
If over\under. level\even the internal load there first.
B4 worrying about water tanks, spares, jerry cans etc externally.
Do same with car.
Measure the wheel arch internal top face, to TOP or bottom of wheel rim. NOT ground.
Front and back.
Load car so it sitting fairly level and arch measurements pretty even.
Couple them up. look along the bottom line of them both. are they pretty much a straight line?
A small variation can be easily controlled by WDH chain adjustments.
Basically tighten chains till CAR wheel arch measurements
are within (preferably) 1\2 in to 1 inch of each other.
and Gross combined weights within YOUR limits.
With CAR heavier than tow by as much as possible for safety.
The car you can take down to scales by itself to cover that weight.
A Tandem van sitting level and with decent drawbar weight is safely balanced usually.
I like a heavy drawbar (350kg plus on a 3 ton van.
And around 150 to 250kg on smaller vans depending on vans weight.
Try NOT to go BELOW 120\150kg though, with any van.
You NEED the weight ON driving wheels
ear of tug.
There are plenty of diagrams and figures on Net and van forums.
Just remember. a rig with heavier tug than tow.
is a LOT safer.. Regardless of legalities.
than one level weight to or lighter than the tow.
I like to keep a minimum of 400kg's heavier than any tow I have.
This van is around 850kg lighter than ute.
Prev Patrol with 6.5mtr van varied from 430 to 850 kg heavier than van.
usually travel with EMPTY water tanks.(3 x 90ltrs is a lot of weight.
just take a 20 ltr can in rear of car.
Be careful with "Airbags".
The next veh with bent chassis won'tbe the first.
I have my coil suspensions set up for touring.towing.
With "Progressive rate" coils. one size up from std.
They give softer springing in first coupla inches.
then the main body of coil takes weight of full rear load,
with\without tug.
With leaf springs. I have a good set of leaves.
Then add a half leaf helper set to rears for van\trlr loading.
Allows normal springing for normal use , and takes extra load of trlr etc.
-- Edited by macka17 on Wednesday 22nd of February 2017 02:16:44 PM
I always prefer to upgrade the suspension first then go to WDH...............
IF when you line them up on the flat. THEY are level, and the ball BASE.. not in line with the flat of cup on van.
Get that right first.
Adjust height of ball on car.
I agree with Belmont Bear and have used air bags on my last two tugs, both with rear coil suspension. The only bent chassis I've seen are when air bags are fitted to utes with leaf springs. Reasons stated by others are that the top of the curve in the chassis is not reinforced as it is not designed to carry a load.
After trying both ways.
Personal choices.
With the leaf springs.
Airbags are ok. IF. you reinforce the sect of chassis rail t'ween hangers to take stress.
Half or full length. "Helper springs" do a more even spread of load.
sharing it between the three points of the leaf susp.
Nothing on rails.
Stronger. OR pump up shocks can do the extra if needed.
While Sticking to the factory designed
einforced mounting points.
I've seen a few torn\Blown Airbags. (Specially Firestone)
on corrugations and rough dirt roads.
Hi Stenno, once you are able to start making some sense of all this, try one thing at a time, instead of going the whole hog with everything at once.
Cheers, John.
All has been weighed, and leveled and tows great. You do need a little weight on the ball. I have travelled a lot of K's around our country with this rig, goes great.
You need to do what suits your vehicle and where you go and what you do.
Good luck , make it safe.
Bello