Hi, I have a truma hot water that's 6 years old now.( 2011 concept van) The problem is when I run it on 240 volt the water is very hot, I cant see an adjustable temp control. It actually leaks out what I would call the gas exhaust vent on the out side of the van. Just a slow drip, could even be condensation? Doesn't leak running on gas only on the 240. Gas either runs on 60 or 70 degrees, the electric a lot hotter.
I've asked 2 caravan places and they insist I bring it in.
Has any one replaced one of these?
Do they have a temp control for 240?
Do they come out from the inside ( pull the cupboard to bits)
Do they come out from the outside ( take the cladding off)
Any one and every ones feed back would be much appreciated and I know it has to be connected by licenced electricians and gas plumbers.
Santa said
04:15 PM Feb 27, 2017
I suspect the slow drip you refer to is coming from the pressure relief valve on the side of the unit, this is meant to be activated regularly to ensure it is functioning correctly.
-- Edited by Santa on Monday 27th of February 2017 04:17:40 PM
C00P said
04:19 PM Feb 27, 2017
I'm not qualified. However, I suspect there are separate thermostats for gas and electric and it seems the thermostat for the 240V heater is faulty- or may not be working at all. The leak you refer to is probably the pressure relief valve allowing some water to escape as it expands when heating up. More heat- more expansion, so more has to be released. I'd be surprised if it was necessary to remove the entire unit to replace the 240V thermostat, but I guess it depends on how it is installed in your van. Cheers
C00P
PS Having looked at the manual supplied by Santa,seems the electric element has a built in over-heat cut-out. I'd contact the manufacturer (maybe by email?) and get their advice. The cut-out may not be working, and if this is the case, the water could get very hot indeed- maybe even boil.
-- Edited by C00P on Monday 27th of February 2017 04:35:06 PM
Stl said
08:12 PM Feb 27, 2017
Hi Coop & Santa. Thanks for the replys. It's not the pressure relief valve, that works fine. It could be the over heat cut out, or thermostat if it has one, but as to where they are ???? which still dosent explain the leak. My unit is in - under the cupboard next to the bed. I don't think a Minnie contortionist can get to it. To get it out to even look at it is pull the bottom cupboard out or take side off van? The caravan - trauma reps say bring it in. $90.00 inspection fee. ( I had already read the trauma manual and no where it says they have a thermostat for the 240 volt only it should be around 70 degrees?.)
Ron-D said
05:48 PM Feb 28, 2017
I have had a few problems with my hot water system as well and fixed them myself, firstly what santa has said is correct in my view, its the pressure relief valve that's leaking ,the only other way would be a blown hose and that would be really obvious big time.
my water temperature is very hot in the sink, not so hot in the shower because of temp control valve that lets cold water mix with hot in the bathroom, the thing that was causing all my grief was that the pressure reducing valve was full of silastic and not seating so instead of being limited to caravan pressure of 350kpa, mine was copping full mains pressure load ,anything from 500kpa to up to 900kpa,all my problems disappeared by replacing that valve...
Santa said
10:44 AM Mar 1, 2017
Stl wrote:
Hi Coop & Santa. Thanks for the replys. It's not the pressure relief valve, that works fine. It could be the over heat cut out, or thermostat if it has one, but as to where they are ???? which still dosent explain the leak. My unit is in - under the cupboard next to the bed. I don't think a Minnie contortionist can get to it. To get it out to even look at it is pull the bottom cupboard out or take side off van? The caravan - trauma reps say bring it in. $90.00 inspection fee. ( I had already read the trauma manual and no where it says they have a thermostat for the 240 volt only it should be around 70 degrees?.)
Guess you have a decision to make Stl.
Stl said
09:37 AM Mar 2, 2017
Hi, thanks for input. It turns out I have a pin hole in the tank. The way to remove is take bed out, remove panel bottom of cupboard and hot water service unit is then removed out under the bed.. the new ones apparently have a panel on the outside??? and the old ones when out the wall can then be cut. You have to have them out due to wires and pipes
Buz said
12:41 PM Mar 3, 2017
Hi there. We had the exact same problem with water dripping from the gas vent from our truma. Turns out the tank had a split (8 years old, lots of use,). End result...new unit! Was not worth fixing.
Stl said
03:19 PM Mar 6, 2017
Hi Buzz,
Did you do it yourself?
VK5TBC said
03:10 PM Aug 18, 2018
bTruman Boiler Model B 10 B14 repair:-
Yes they have a Temp' sensor near the 230V heater...easy to replace but check water temp' first at around 85C to 65C depending on that larger white sensor.
ALSO.....
Slow leak caused by metal fatigue to Top of Boiler - 120mm split on weld.
This repair is not for the faint hearted and one needs to have a basic electrical and plumbing engineering background and at all times ensure power is disconnected and Gas bottles turned off.
Steps with photos :-
* WARNING -Take lid off and cardboard surround/enclosure.
* Prior to pulling out PCB Touch metal boiler with hands to discharge static electricity that could damage PCB, then disconnect plugs at top of EHT (High Voltage PCB) and store PCB in a paper or conductive plastic bag. Do not handle PCB carelessly or touch components of PCB - this may damage PCB IC's.
* Undo Gas connection with 10" adjustable spanner.
* Unscrew circular clamp holding kettle in place as there is a rubber seal located between the SS Kettle/boiler and main galvanized metal surround e.g. ID the surround, is where 230v heater leads come out of elliptical hole.
* Externals- unscrew/pull exhaust gas cover and metal plate, using a screwdriver 3mm blade and free up bottom drip pipe from surround prior to pulling Boiler free.
* Kettle can only be pulled up and out after removal of side aluminum exhaust chimney.
* Unscrew 230Vac heater and 3 x thermo devices together and remove from metal tunnel, and lay to one side.
* Now the kettle can be removed from galvi surround, inspect where leak is and buff up and clean away old rubber and take kettle to a SS welding business and make sure it is pressure tested prior to re-assembly.
* Reassemble is in reverse and pay particular to thermo' devices and re-grease with minimal thermo' grease (obtained from Jaycar) and replace failed 'Rubber Sealing Ring' type 70000-14100 at $50 (good to 100C maybe).
I am replacing my Sealing ring with a 1200mm of TPS sheathing cut to length using 10A house wire from Bunnings and strip away 3 wires along edge of TPS and using the sheath only. (good to 160C)
see photos.
Best luck VK5TBC.
-- Edited by VK5TBC on Saturday 18th of August 2018 03:14:59 PM
-- Edited by VK5TBC on Saturday 18th of August 2018 08:53:03 PM
Stl wrote:I've asked 2 caravan places and they insist I bring it in.
I don't condemn them for not offering a solution if you only provided the information that you have provided here. They are open to too much criticism if they give an incorrect diagnosis. If you want someone to give a firm diagnosis then get a mobile repairer to come and have a look at it.
Hi, I have a truma hot water that's 6 years old now.( 2011 concept van) The problem is when I run it on 240 volt the water is very hot, I cant see an adjustable temp control. It actually leaks out what I would call the gas exhaust vent on the out side of the van. Just a slow drip, could even be condensation? Doesn't leak running on gas only on the 240. Gas either runs on 60 or 70 degrees, the electric a lot hotter.
I've asked 2 caravan places and they insist I bring it in.
Has any one replaced one of these?
Do they have a temp control for 240?
Do they come out from the inside ( pull the cupboard to bits)
Do they come out from the outside ( take the cladding off)
Any one and every ones feed back would be much appreciated and I know it has to be connected by licenced electricians and gas plumbers.
I suspect the slow drip you refer to is coming from the pressure relief valve on the side of the unit, this is meant to be activated regularly to ensure it is functioning correctly.
Manual here, extract below. https://www.truma.com/downloadcenter/boiler_installation_operation_aus.pdf
Danger
Failure to operate the relief valve easing gear
at least once every six months may result in
the water heater splitting.
Continuous leakage
of water from the valve may indicate a prob-
lem with the water heater!
Water may drip from the discharge pipe of
the
pres
sure relief device and this pipe must
be left open to the atmosphere
-- Edited by Santa on Monday 27th of February 2017 04:17:40 PM
I'm not qualified.
However, I suspect there are separate thermostats for gas and electric and it seems the thermostat for the 240V heater is faulty- or may not be working at all. The leak you refer to is probably the pressure relief valve allowing some water to escape as it expands when heating up. More heat- more expansion, so more has to be released.
I'd be surprised if it was necessary to remove the entire unit to replace the 240V thermostat, but I guess it depends on how it is installed in your van.
Cheers
C00P
PS Having looked at the manual supplied by Santa,seems the electric element has a built in over-heat cut-out. I'd contact the manufacturer (maybe by email?) and get their advice. The cut-out may not be working, and if this is the case, the water could get very hot indeed- maybe even boil.
-- Edited by C00P on Monday 27th of February 2017 04:35:06 PM
Hi Coop & Santa. Thanks for the replys. It's not the pressure relief valve, that works fine. It could be the over heat cut out, or thermostat if it has one, but as to where they are ???? which still dosent explain the leak. My unit is in - under the cupboard next to the bed. I don't think a Minnie contortionist can get to it. To get it out to even look at it is pull the bottom cupboard out or take side off van? The caravan - trauma reps say bring it in. $90.00 inspection fee. ( I had already read the trauma manual and no where it says they have a thermostat for the 240 volt only it should be around 70 degrees?.)
I have had a few problems with my hot water system as well and fixed them myself, firstly what santa has said is correct in my view, its the pressure relief valve that's leaking ,the only other way would be a blown hose and that would be really obvious big time.
my water temperature is very hot in the sink, not so hot in the shower because of temp control valve that lets cold water mix with hot in the bathroom, the thing that was causing all my grief was that the pressure reducing valve was full of silastic and not seating so instead of being limited to caravan pressure of 350kpa, mine was copping full mains pressure load ,anything from 500kpa to up to 900kpa,all my problems disappeared by replacing that valve...
Guess you have a decision to make Stl.
Hi, thanks for input. It turns out I have a pin hole in the tank. The way to remove is take bed out, remove panel bottom of cupboard and hot water service unit is then removed out under the bed.. the new ones apparently have a panel on the outside??? and the old ones when out the wall can then be cut. You have to have them out due to wires and pipes
Hi Buzz,
Did you do it yourself?
Yes they have a Temp' sensor near the 230V heater...easy to replace but check water temp' first at around 85C to 65C depending on that larger white sensor.
ALSO.....
Slow leak caused by metal fatigue to Top of Boiler - 120mm split on weld.
This repair is not for the faint hearted and one needs to have a basic electrical and plumbing engineering background and at all times ensure power is disconnected and Gas bottles turned off.
Steps with photos :-
* WARNING -Take lid off and cardboard surround/enclosure.
* Prior to pulling out PCB Touch metal boiler with hands to discharge static electricity that could damage PCB, then disconnect plugs at top of EHT (High Voltage PCB) and store PCB in a paper or conductive plastic bag. Do not handle PCB carelessly or touch components of PCB - this may damage PCB IC's.
* Undo Gas connection with 10" adjustable spanner.
* Unscrew circular clamp holding kettle in place as there is a rubber seal located between the SS Kettle/boiler and main galvanized metal surround e.g. ID the surround, is where 230v heater leads come out of elliptical hole.
* Externals- unscrew/pull exhaust gas cover and metal plate, using a screwdriver 3mm blade and free up bottom drip pipe from surround prior to pulling Boiler free.
* Kettle can only be pulled up and out after removal of side aluminum exhaust chimney.
* Unscrew 230Vac heater and 3 x thermo devices together and remove from metal tunnel, and lay to one side.
* Now the kettle can be removed from galvi surround, inspect where leak is and buff up and clean away old rubber and take kettle to a SS welding business and make sure it is pressure tested prior to re-assembly.
* Reassemble is in reverse and pay particular to thermo' devices and re-grease with minimal thermo' grease (obtained from Jaycar) and replace failed 'Rubber Sealing Ring' type 70000-14100 at $50 (good to 100C maybe).
I am replacing my Sealing ring with a 1200mm of TPS sheathing cut to length using 10A house wire from Bunnings and strip away 3 wires along edge of TPS and using the sheath only. (good to 160C)
see photos.
Best luck VK5TBC.
-- Edited by VK5TBC on Saturday 18th of August 2018 03:14:59 PM
-- Edited by VK5TBC on Saturday 18th of August 2018 08:53:03 PM
I don't condemn them for not offering a solution if you only provided the information that you have provided here. They are open to too much criticism if they give an incorrect diagnosis. If you want someone to give a firm diagnosis then get a mobile repairer to come and have a look at it.