I am having a real brain rattling time trying to work out where to install a diesel heater in the van, but at the moment I am putting out the question, now that you have installed or had installed one of these heaters, where does the exhaust outlet, exhaust from your van, in hindsight, would you have put the outlet in another place, and have you had any complaints from camping neighbors regarding the fumes?
-- Edited by iana on Monday 27th of March 2017 10:34:39 PM
Landfall said
06:37 AM Mar 28, 2017
I fitted ours underneath the van, that way I did not have to worry about where to put the furnace intake or exhaust. I placed it in a box that can be purchased from the supplier for that purpose. The unit can be rotated 90degrees so the intake and exhaust are exiting from the side, this makes the whole unit and pipework ery neat and out of the way.
The only hole in the floor is the hot air inlet which I have led to two outlets. I also take the hot air from the interior and feed that back into the unit, this way I there is no risk the heater is breathing in the exhaust fumes and it is just recycling hot air.
Never had any complaints with neighbours, used it two weeks ago and our friendly neighbour said he heard it start up and asked us about it as he wants to fit one also.
iana said
07:32 AM Mar 28, 2017
Landfall, that option is under consideration for our van as well, I do feel that some of the heat generated will be lost to the outside with this type of installation. Is the box you fitted the burner into insulated? and wouldn't you need two holes in the floor, heat outlet and return air? are the heat and return air hoses insulated.
Our thoughts are to have the exhaust outlet exiting on the awning side, that being the farthest away from any camping neighbors.
Stl said
02:07 PM Mar 28, 2017
Hi Iana, I installed mine under the seat.( mainly for the wiring loom protection and out of the weather) the exhaust out the back r/h side facing back, you can run them while driving so nice and warm when you stop. the only smell is for about 10 seconds when firing up otherwise no smell at all. I wouldn't run to annex side, if annex all zipped up your filling it with fumes ????. the main thing is to rubber mount everything you can (fuel pump, fuel lines and even leads) and put the electric fuel pump as far as way from where your sleeping or relaxing as the tick tick noise when everything is quite seems to amplify????
And you can draw air from outside, whether you install the unit in the van or not, drawing air from outside sort of pressurizes the van with warm air which is great, the down side is if you have been on a dusty road then you have dust blown into van. Each to their own.
Landfall said
02:20 PM Mar 28, 2017
Hi Iana,
The box is not insulated because as far as I can see the heater unit itself needs to be cooled down, there are cooling fins in the furnace. The box is a standard accessory.
Technically you are correct in the two holes but I was able to keep the air intake hole in the vertical part of the entrance step which was accessible from underneath.
Yes I purchased from ebay through a dealer in Turkey a length of insulated cover for the ducting. This was very well made and easy to fit after the job was completed, it also is very strong protection for the ducting pipe.
Both the furnace intake and exhaust are on the awning side, the intake up front and the exhaust at the rear. Both have silencers fitted.
Note ducting insulation is on the outlet (hot air) side only.
-- Edited by Landfall on Tuesday 28th of March 2017 02:21:58 PM
-- Edited by Landfall on Tuesday 28th of March 2017 02:23:41 PM
Sorry all, I said van and meant caravan. That's a great picture Landfall, and I will shortly crawl under our "Caravan" to see how the unit may fit. My main concern is how to bring the air to be heated, and the hot air tubes up and into the Caravan.
I don't have a lounge, the bed is in the center, ensuite at rear. two water tanks and a grey water tank.
This is not an easy journey.
iana said
09:20 PM Mar 28, 2017
I have had another look underneath the caravan, and have concluded mounting the heater under the floor is not a good option, as I have nowhere to bring the supply and return air hoses from. I did wonder about grills in the floor, but that would look crappy and dirt and lint would drop down into them.
An option I have is to mount the heater in a small corner cabinet by the door, however the chassis beam (150 x 50 RHS) runs just where the exhaust needs to come out. I am considering raising the heater up off the floor 100-150mm to get a joggle in the exhaust pipe, or I have some stainless fittings which I can weld to off set the outlet as an alternative.
The down side to this plan is that I will have joints either the exhaust pipe or the stainless fittings on the inside of the van, which means I will have to pay attention to sealing the joints. I don't want exhaust fumes inside the van.
This positon allows a short exhaust, exiting into the awning area, I don't have an annex, so this should not be a problem.
Landfall said
10:08 PM Mar 28, 2017
This was the main reason apart from the noise factor that I was concerned about.
We have had one fitted into our yacht for about 7 years now and they are terrific, but can be noisy.
The exhaust gets very hot, also be aware that the pumps ticking can be loud as well, this needs to be sound proofed if possible.
If I can be of any further help, just give us a yell.
Cheers
JayDee said
05:06 PM Mar 29, 2017
We installed a diesel heater, last year. Now I have to wear hearing aids, but not at night or when the heater is on. So I hear nothing, on the other hand, Dee has good hearing and says we have no noise re our heater.
Soooo I guess that I must have done a good job in installing same.
The heater was a blessing last winter and we will be hopefully enjoy warm and snug conditions again this winter as we travel the outback of Victoria New South Wales and Queensland.
Jay&Dee
Landfall said
06:46 PM Mar 29, 2017
JayDee wrote:
We installed a diesel heater, last year. Now I have to wear hearing aids, but not at night or when the heater is on. So I hear nothing, on the other hand, Dee has good hearing and says we have no noise re our heater.
Soooo I guess that I must have done a good job in installing same.
The heater was a blessing last winter and we will be hopefully enjoy warm and snug conditions again this winter as we travel the outback of Victoria New South Wales and Queensland.
Jay&Dee
Could be the placebo effect the heater is not working, but you feel warmer save a bundle on fuel.
Nothing beats a nice warm van on a cold winter morning.
Cheers
iana said
07:12 PM Mar 29, 2017
Proposed installation. Chassis in the way, maybe able to get around the problem by making up a stainless off-set exhaust pipe so the exhaust clears. I am concerned about the heat of the pipe and heat in the cupboard. Any comments?
I mounted our Eberspacher diesel heater directly on the floor and yes you have to pay attention to sealing the floor penetrations well but you would anyway to prevent the ingress of water and dust as well as the exhaust gas. It was mounted under the sink area, from memory between the mudguard and the cupboard door, if you get what I mean. It was a tight fit worked well with a very short warm air duct.
However don't put the exhaust out under the awning and don't put it out under one of your windows.
I used a flexible exhaust pipe with a muffler and directed it to the left side of the caravan and dropped the end of the pipe down facing the ground so the exhaust hits the ground and dissipates well.
Don't forget you will always be there when you run the heater but you may not always have neighbors and as Stl says there is a slight burnt kero smell that is gone in 10 seconds or less. Even if you take it out the back you still may have rear neighbors.
We never had a complaint or comment about our heater starting or running.
I also fitted ours with an inlet silencer and ALL items were mounted on rubber with the fuel lines mounted in rubber saddles. Make Clarke rubber your friend.
The result was an absolute silent heater and comfortable caravan.
Don't despair the planning and prep time, I was asked several times how long it took to install and when my reply was 2 weeks people would look at me as though I had two heads but you only get one shot at doing it properly-it's the old story, measure twice cut once.
Good Luck.
There was never enough heat given off the heater body to cause me any concern, even mounted on the vinyl floor and the cupboard door closed at all times.
-- Edited by Sparkster on Thursday 30th of March 2017 12:15:42 PM
Moonraker said
11:44 AM Mar 30, 2017
Hi Iana,
A very definate no!
I think you should definately not fit the heat as you show in the photo. You need to ensure the exhaust pipe, diesel pipe and air intake are outside the van.
The installation manual shows how the furness must be fitted. You should follow this instruction.
Usual fitting of cutting one large hole in the floor with all the pipes outside the van. With your proposal all pipes will be inside the van where they entre the furness the result would be a high risk of fire and I would expect any resulting insurance claim being rejected.
If the chassis is in the way you need to find another location.
If you are in any doubt about how to install then get it professionally fitted it could prevent a disaster.
Moonraker said
11:50 AM Mar 30, 2017
Hi Iana,
A very definate no!
I think you should definately not fit the heat as you show in the photo. You need to ensure the exhaust pipe, diesel pipe and air intake are outside the van.
The installation manual shows how the furness must be fitted. You should follow this instruction.
Usual fitting of cutting one large hole in the floor with all the pipes outside the van. With your proposal all pipes will be inside the van where they entre the furness the result would be a high risk of fire and I would expect any resulting insurance claim being rejected.
If the chassis is in the way you need to find another location.
If you are in any doubt about how to install then get it professionally fitted it could prevent a disaster.
Landfall said
03:45 PM Mar 30, 2017
There is a genuine mounting plate for this type of installation,the plate can be viewed on the www.dieselheat.com.au site. Click on the caravan on the hhome page, then click on Belief 2kw heater, follow this down the left hand side and you will come to mounting plate heavy duty. This makes the through floor fitting very easy.
iana said
06:09 PM Mar 30, 2017
Sparkster wrote I mounted our Eberspacher diesel heater directly on the floor and yes you have to pay attention to sealing the floor penetrations well but you would anyway to prevent the ingress of water and dust as well as the exhaust gas. It was mounted under the sink area, from memory between the mudguard and the cupboard door, if you get what I mean. It was a tight fit worked well with a very short warm air duct. However don't put the exhaust out under the awning and don't put it out under one of your windows.
Yes I have a similar downward opening door under the stove, but nowhere to bring out the hot air inlet and heated air ports, also this area is also housing my emergency brake controller, not much room as you say very tight.
I used a flexible exhaust pipe with a muffler and directed it to the left side of the caravan and dropped the end of the pipe down facing the ground so the exhaust hits the ground and dissipates well. Don't forget you will always be there when you run the heater but you may not always have neighbors and as Stl says there is a slight burnt kero smell that is gone in 10 seconds or less. Even if you take it out the back you still may have rear neighbors. We never had a complaint or comment about our heater starting or running.
Taken onboard.
I also fitted ours with an inlet silencer and ALL items were mounted on rubber with the fuel lines mounted in rubber saddles. Make Clarke rubber your friend. The result was an absolute silent heater and comfortable caravan.
Taken onboard.
Don't despair the planning and prep time, I was asked several times how long it took to install and when my reply was 2 weeks people would look at me as though I had two heads but you only get one shot at doing it properly-it's the old story, measure twice cut once. Good Luck.
Thanks but this job is giving me plenty of grief.
There was never enough heat given off the heater body to cause me any concern, even mounted on the vinyl floor and the cupboard door closed at all times.
This is what I want to hear. Thanks.
iana said
06:20 PM Mar 30, 2017
Moonraker wrote:
A very definate no! I think you should definately not fit the heat as you show in the photo. You need to ensure the exhaust pipe, diesel pipe and air intake are outside the van. The installation manual shows how the furness must be fitted. You should follow this instruction. Usual fitting of cutting one large hole in the floor with all the pipes outside the van.
I have been in touch with the Australian supplier, and he suggested a modified base plate, so that the heater was raised, but the exhaust port and the fuel line were out side the van. This would mean cutting out the floor over the RHS chassis beam, not out of the question at the moment.
How ever if you were to google some diesel installations, particularly on the fold out campers, you would see all sorts of internal installations where the exhaust and fuel line is on the inside of the vehicle, not to mention trucks vans and motor homes.
With your proposal all pipes will be inside the van where they entre the furness the result would be a high risk of fire and I would expect any resulting insurance claim being rejected. If the chassis is in the way you need to find another location. If you are in any doubt about how to install then get it professionally fitted it could prevent a disaster.
iana said
06:27 PM Mar 30, 2017
Landfall wrote:
There is a genuine mounting plate for this type of installation,the plate can be viewed on the www.dieselheat.com.au site. Click on the caravan on the hhome page, then click on Belief 2kw heater, follow this down the left hand side and you will come to mounting plate heavy duty. This makes the through floor fitting very easy.
Yes a plate very similar to that is what the supplier was suggesting. It would have to be made so the flange was higher, again something to consider.
Thanks for the input.
iana said
06:33 PM Mar 30, 2017
Just to add, I have just ordered two "tight" right angle bends that will fit onto the exhaust of the heater, a fuel tank and a 24mm joiner to make exhaust adaptors if required. The rt angle bends may help me nut out a plan.
There is a possibility that the heater could go under the floor in that area, there is some space there, one of my concerns on this type of installation is the fuel line and it needing to be on a gradual upward slope. I gather this is so the fuel line "self purges", any comments on this?
The fuel line is going to be long as I plan to mount the tank in the front boot area.
Landfall said
07:57 PM Mar 30, 2017
Hi again,
This was the area I had many sleepless nights over.
I have our fuel tank under one of the seats inside the van, thus it is considerable HIGHER than the furnace. After drilling the appropriate exit hole in the floor I then went out along the bottom of the chassis rail, bolting the fuel pump at the upper level of the rail, this gave me he slight incline needed. It does not have to a continuous rise, only at the entry to the pump. My fuel line is three metres long.
For the initial purge I attached a brake bleed vacuum pump to the fuel line at the fuel pump connection and sucked the fuel through, hooked it up and pressed start. Fired up first time with no code errors.
iana said
02:30 PM Apr 7, 2017
Just an up-date, the tight right angle bends have arrived, and it looking as though I can mount the unit under the cupboard (outside) under the floor. The hot air outlet will come up into the cupboard and exhaust at a good spot inside the van. Return air via the gap between shelving and the wheel arches. Its still very tight. I am drawing it up on Acadd to see how it all fits and to design suitable supports that will be bolted to the floor.
iana said
07:38 AM Apr 26, 2017
Just an update on the project. I have mounted the diesel tank on double acting ball bearing draw runners, and attached the assembly inside the front boot of the caravan. Now by opening the side door of the boot, I can pull the tank out so any spillage when filling does not spill in the boot. I have fitted a vent that will be plumbed to outside the van, so hopefully there will be no diesel fumes coming into the van.
Fitting the two sharply angled bends, will enable me to fit the heater body under the floor. Still doing planning at this stage, I am looking at mounting the heater so that the exhaust and combustion air inlet are vertically down, I'm doing this so that any water can drain out, if the occasion arises where water may reach the unit. Mounting the heater on its side would mean water remains in the combustion chamber of the unit. I have plenty of height to work with.
I am a bit concerned about the heat of the air that will be going through the floor from the hot air outlet of the heater. Planning on cutting a 100mm hole in the floor and packing it with fire proof rope as used in slow combustion heaters, clamping it with aluminium plates each side of the floor, ho can begin.pping this will cut back the heat going into the floor, and at the same time keep ants out.
The final part of the design is now the enclosure to protect the heater unit from dust, mud and water. When this is all worked out the hole making
iana said
05:55 PM May 24, 2017
Photos of installation. Pictures showing the ducting in the cupboard, underneath the metal plate is a large hole in the floor with fiberglass rope wedged between the ducting and the floor. Same rope as used on heaters. The next pic is the outlet exiting in the kitchen area. The Snugger, fitted under the floor using tight bends.
The next pic shows the mass of things in the way of the exhaust going towards the rear, and the last picture shows the view looking forwards which is clear of obstruction, where the exhaust could run.
I have swapped back to the first post I made on this installation, as my previous post was a specific question.
For those who may be interested, I test fired the install today. I have had to redo all the battery installation and electrics, so that has held me up a bit. Anyway, the launch was successful, and as we sailed up through the earths atmosphere the vibration and smoke died away. Upon reaching a stable orbit, power was reduced to 50%, and all systems functioned normally. Still work to do though, will post some pictures soon, especially of the glowing heat shield we experienced during re-entry.
iana said
09:25 AM Jun 6, 2017
A couple of notes, when starting at 100% setting, the unit, and the heat outlet hose gets pretty dammed hot, I am going to have to insulate the "Hot air outlet" hose, as too much heat is being lost inside the cupboard, I would not want that under the bed amongst storage stuff. The exhaust pipe gets really hot, and indicates to me that using the heater at a setting over 50%, would be a waste of energy, as the heater is just passing the heat outside.
Some noise from the pump, so I am going to have to wrap some sound proofing over it. The combustion inlet also had noise, and am planning on a air filter to clean the air and silence the intake.
At 50% or less the heater performed well.
iana said
06:55 PM Jul 25, 2017
Took the van away for 4 days and gave the heater a smoke test. I insulated the hot air outlet ducting through the cupboard with some fire proof rope and the top sections of some old UGG boots (wool). This worked well and the area became only luke warm. Some noise from the fuel pump and the inlet can be heard, to be addressed. The only real complaint I have is that the heat regulating dial doesn't make sense, with arrows going in both directions, and know way of knowing what the settings are.
bergy said
02:36 PM Aug 10, 2018
Hi guys, Have just purchased a 2.2kw Tuit from Ballarat guys.
Now while i wait for the delivery i have a couple of question ( probably more to come )
Firstly i propose installing the unit in the cupboard under the dining seat.
Now i am thinking about making a timber box to enclose the unit,should i insulate the box ?
Next i am mounting the fuel tank on the rear bumper and thinking about putting the filter and pump close to the tank.Is that a issue with distance to push the fuel ?
I am thinking of blowing the hot air under the table and sucking from the end of the bed.What have others done.
Thanks
Brian
iana said
10:35 AM Aug 13, 2018
Sorry, I missed your query bergy. What I can tell you is the outlet ducting can get bloody hot. I have insulated this with the woven insulating rope, about 16mm diameter for a short distance, then used the top portion of some UGG boots (wool) to fit over the hose to insulate it sooner. The cupboard is nice and cool, and the heat is going out into the van interior where it should be. As for the heater unit itself, since I have installed it outside the van, I haven't been concerned about how hot the body gets, but an in the process of making a cover which will protect it and reduce noise further. I may insulate the inside of the cover.
I think the pump should be installed as close to the tank as possible, as it will be easier to prime. Pushing the fuel is better than sucking it.
I am having a real brain rattling time trying to work out where to install a diesel heater in the van, but at the moment I am putting out the question, now that you have installed or had installed one of these heaters, where does the exhaust outlet, exhaust from your van, in hindsight, would you have put the outlet in another place, and have you had any complaints from camping neighbors regarding the fumes?
-- Edited by iana on Monday 27th of March 2017 10:34:39 PM
I fitted ours underneath the van, that way I did not have to worry about where to put the furnace intake or exhaust. I placed it in a box that can be purchased from the supplier for that purpose. The unit can be rotated 90degrees so the intake and exhaust are exiting from the side, this makes the whole unit and pipework ery neat and out of the way.
The only hole in the floor is the hot air inlet which I have led to two outlets. I also take the hot air from the interior and feed that back into the unit, this way I there is no risk the heater is breathing in the exhaust fumes and it is just recycling hot air.
Never had any complaints with neighbours, used it two weeks ago and our friendly neighbour said he heard it start up and asked us about it as he wants to fit one also.
Our thoughts are to have the exhaust outlet exiting on the awning side, that being the farthest away from any camping neighbors.
Hi Iana, I installed mine under the seat.( mainly for the wiring loom protection and out of the weather) the exhaust out the back r/h side facing back, you can run them while driving so nice and warm when you stop. the only smell is for about 10 seconds when firing up otherwise no smell at all. I wouldn't run to annex side, if annex all zipped up your filling it with fumes ????. the main thing is to rubber mount everything you can (fuel pump, fuel lines and even leads) and put the electric fuel pump as far as way from where your sleeping or relaxing as the tick tick noise when everything is quite seems to amplify????
And you can draw air from outside, whether you install the unit in the van or not, drawing air from outside sort of pressurizes the van with warm air which is great, the down side is if you have been on a dusty road then you have dust blown into van. Each to their own.
The box is not insulated because as far as I can see the heater unit itself needs to be cooled down, there are cooling fins in the furnace. The box is a standard accessory.
Technically you are correct in the two holes but I was able to keep the air intake hole in the vertical part of the entrance step which was accessible from underneath.
Yes I purchased from ebay through a dealer in Turkey a length of insulated cover for the ducting. This was very well made and easy to fit after the job was completed, it also is very strong protection for the ducting pipe.
Both the furnace intake and exhaust are on the awning side, the intake up front and the exhaust at the rear. Both have silencers fitted.
Note ducting insulation is on the outlet (hot air) side only.
-- Edited by Landfall on Tuesday 28th of March 2017 02:21:58 PM
-- Edited by Landfall on Tuesday 28th of March 2017 02:23:41 PM
I don't have a lounge, the bed is in the center, ensuite at rear. two water tanks and a grey water tank.
This is not an easy journey.
An option I have is to mount the heater in a small corner cabinet by the door, however the chassis beam (150 x 50 RHS) runs just where the exhaust needs to come out. I am considering raising the heater up off the floor 100-150mm to get a joggle in the exhaust pipe, or I have some stainless fittings which I can weld to off set the outlet as an alternative.
The down side to this plan is that I will have joints either the exhaust pipe or the stainless fittings on the inside of the van, which means I will have to pay attention to sealing the joints. I don't want exhaust fumes inside the van.
This positon allows a short exhaust, exiting into the awning area, I don't have an annex, so this should not be a problem.
This was the main reason apart from the noise factor that I was concerned about.
We have had one fitted into our yacht for about 7 years now and they are terrific, but can be noisy.
The exhaust gets very hot, also be aware that the pumps ticking can be loud as well, this needs to be sound proofed if possible.
If I can be of any further help, just give us a yell.
Cheers
We installed a diesel heater, last year. Now I have to wear hearing aids, but not at night or when the heater is on. So I hear nothing, on the other hand, Dee has good hearing and says we have no noise re our heater.
Soooo I guess that I must have done a good job in installing same.
The heater was a blessing last winter and we will be hopefully enjoy warm and snug conditions again this winter as we travel the outback of Victoria New South Wales and Queensland.
Jay&Dee
Proposed installation. Chassis in the way, maybe able to get around the problem by making up a stainless off-set exhaust pipe so the exhaust clears. I am concerned about the heat of the pipe and heat in the cupboard. Any comments?
I mounted our Eberspacher diesel heater directly on the floor and yes you have to pay attention to sealing the floor penetrations well but you would anyway to prevent the ingress of water and dust as well as the exhaust gas. It was mounted under the sink area, from memory between the mudguard and the cupboard door, if you get what I mean. It was a tight fit worked well with a very short warm air duct.
However don't put the exhaust out under the awning and don't put it out under one of your windows.
I used a flexible exhaust pipe with a muffler and directed it to the left side of the caravan and dropped the end of the pipe down facing the ground so the exhaust hits the ground and dissipates well.
Don't forget you will always be there when you run the heater but you may not always have neighbors and as Stl says there is a slight burnt kero smell that is gone in 10 seconds or less. Even if you take it out the back you still may have rear neighbors.
We never had a complaint or comment about our heater starting or running.
I also fitted ours with an inlet silencer and ALL items were mounted on rubber with the fuel lines mounted in rubber saddles. Make Clarke rubber your friend.
The result was an absolute silent heater and comfortable caravan.
Don't despair the planning and prep time, I was asked several times how long it took to install and when my reply was 2 weeks people would look at me as though I had two heads but you only get one shot at doing it properly-it's the old story, measure twice cut once.
Good Luck.
There was never enough heat given off the heater body to cause me any concern, even mounted on the vinyl floor and the cupboard door closed at all times.
-- Edited by Sparkster on Thursday 30th of March 2017 12:15:42 PM
A very definate no!
I think you should definately not fit the heat as you show in the photo. You need to ensure the exhaust pipe, diesel pipe and air intake are outside the van.
The installation manual shows how the furness must be fitted. You should follow this instruction.
Usual fitting of cutting one large hole in the floor with all the pipes outside the van. With your proposal all pipes will be inside the van where they entre the furness the result would be a high risk of fire and I would expect any resulting insurance claim being rejected.
If the chassis is in the way you need to find another location.
If you are in any doubt about how to install then get it professionally fitted it could prevent a disaster.
A very definate no!
I think you should definately not fit the heat as you show in the photo. You need to ensure the exhaust pipe, diesel pipe and air intake are outside the van.
The installation manual shows how the furness must be fitted. You should follow this instruction.
Usual fitting of cutting one large hole in the floor with all the pipes outside the van. With your proposal all pipes will be inside the van where they entre the furness the result would be a high risk of fire and I would expect any resulting insurance claim being rejected.
If the chassis is in the way you need to find another location.
If you are in any doubt about how to install then get it professionally fitted it could prevent a disaster.
There is a genuine mounting plate for this type of installation,the plate can be viewed on the www.dieselheat.com.au site. Click on the caravan on the hhome page, then click on Belief 2kw heater, follow this down the left hand side and you will come to mounting plate heavy duty. This makes the through floor fitting very easy.
Sparkster wrote
I mounted our Eberspacher diesel heater directly on the floor and yes you have to pay attention to sealing the floor penetrations well but you would anyway to prevent the ingress of water and dust as well as the exhaust gas. It was mounted under the sink area, from memory between the mudguard and the cupboard door, if you get what I mean. It was a tight fit worked well with a very short warm air duct.
However don't put the exhaust out under the awning and don't put it out under one of your windows.
Yes I have a similar downward opening door under the stove, but nowhere to bring out the hot air inlet and heated air ports, also this area is also housing my emergency brake controller, not much room as you say very tight.
I used a flexible exhaust pipe with a muffler and directed it to the left side of the caravan and dropped the end of the pipe down facing the ground so the exhaust hits the ground and dissipates well.
Don't forget you will always be there when you run the heater but you may not always have neighbors and as Stl says there is a slight burnt kero smell that is gone in 10 seconds or less. Even if you take it out the back you still may have rear neighbors.
We never had a complaint or comment about our heater starting or running.
Taken onboard.
I also fitted ours with an inlet silencer and ALL items were mounted on rubber with the fuel lines mounted in rubber saddles. Make Clarke rubber your friend.
The result was an absolute silent heater and comfortable caravan.
Taken onboard.
Don't despair the planning and prep time, I was asked several times how long it took to install and when my reply was 2 weeks people would look at me as though I had two heads but you only get one shot at doing it properly-it's the old story, measure twice cut once.
Good Luck.
Thanks but this job is giving me plenty of grief.
There was never enough heat given off the heater body to cause me any concern, even mounted on the vinyl floor and the cupboard door closed at all times.
This is what I want to hear. Thanks.
Yes a plate very similar to that is what the supplier was suggesting. It would have to be made so the flange was higher, again something to consider.
Thanks for the input.
There is a possibility that the heater could go under the floor in that area, there is some space there, one of my concerns on this type of installation is the fuel line and it needing to be on a gradual upward slope. I gather this is so the fuel line "self purges", any comments on this?
The fuel line is going to be long as I plan to mount the tank in the front boot area.
Hi again,
This was the area I had many sleepless nights over.
I have our fuel tank under one of the seats inside the van, thus it is considerable HIGHER than the furnace. After drilling the appropriate exit hole in the floor I then went out along the bottom of the chassis rail, bolting the fuel pump at the upper level of the rail, this gave me he slight incline needed. It does not have to a continuous rise, only at the entry to the pump. My fuel line is three metres long.
For the initial purge I attached a brake bleed vacuum pump to the fuel line at the fuel pump connection and sucked the fuel through, hooked it up and pressed start. Fired up first time with no code errors.
Fitting the two sharply angled bends, will enable me to fit the heater body under the floor. Still doing planning at this stage, I am looking at mounting the heater so that the exhaust and combustion air inlet are vertically down, I'm doing this so that any water can drain out, if the occasion arises where water may reach the unit. Mounting the heater on its side would mean water remains in the combustion chamber of the unit. I have plenty of height to work with.
I am a bit concerned about the heat of the air that will be going through the floor from the hot air outlet of the heater. Planning on cutting a 100mm hole in the floor and packing it with fire proof rope as used in slow combustion heaters, clamping it with aluminium plates each side of the floor, ho can begin.pping this will cut back the heat going into the floor, and at the same time keep ants out.
The final part of the design is now the enclosure to protect the heater unit from dust, mud and water. When this is all worked out the hole making
Photos of installation. Pictures showing the ducting in the cupboard, underneath the metal plate is a large hole in the floor with fiberglass rope wedged between the ducting and the floor. Same rope as used on heaters. The next pic is the outlet exiting in the kitchen area. The Snugger, fitted under the floor using tight bends.
The next pic shows the mass of things in the way of the exhaust going towards the rear, and the last picture shows the view looking forwards which is clear of obstruction, where the exhaust could run.
I have swapped back to the first post I made on this installation, as my previous post was a specific question.
Some have asked where I got the mesh.
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?_nkw=5+x+Aquarium+Stainless+Steel+Wire+Mesh+for+Moss+Live+Plants+&_id=201096486515&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2658
Aussie Paul.
Some noise from the pump, so I am going to have to wrap some sound proofing over it. The combustion inlet also had noise, and am planning on a air filter to clean the air and silence the intake.
At 50% or less the heater performed well.
Now while i wait for the delivery i have a couple of question ( probably more to come )
Firstly i propose installing the unit in the cupboard under the dining seat.
Now i am thinking about making a timber box to enclose the unit,should i insulate the box ?
Next i am mounting the fuel tank on the rear bumper and thinking about putting the filter and pump close to the tank.Is that a issue with distance to push the fuel ?
I am thinking of blowing the hot air under the table and sucking from the end of the bed.What have others done.
Thanks
Brian
I think the pump should be installed as close to the tank as possible, as it will be easier to prime. Pushing the fuel is better than sucking it.