Hi, new to this forum. I recently upgraded from a camper trailer to a second hand 2003 Viscount pop top. Before purchasing I got the previous owners to turn on the fridge to ensure it was going. It worked fine. Over Easter we gave it a trial and found the fridge would not get cold on mains power. We were able to get it work very well on gas. Since returning home we have tried to put the switch on the fridge at different positions but no joy with it working on mains power. Any advice? The fridge is an Electrolux RM2350. There is only one fuse that I can see. All other electrical things work fine (lights, powerpoints etc)
macka17 said
07:29 PM Apr 19, 2017
Last Dometic van fridge I threw out.
Mains stopped working.
$120 for new element. 10 min's to install.
Shortly after. Dump.
Sorry . I don't like the useless things.
Even after 50 odd yrs of caravaning.
aussie_paul said
07:33 PM Apr 19, 2017
macka17 wrote:
Last Dometic van fridge I threw out.
Mains stopped working. $120 for new element. 10 min's to install.
Shortly after. Dump.
Sorry . I don't like the useless things. Even after 50 odd yrs of caravaning.
Slow learner are you Macka.
Aussie Paul.
Radar said
07:49 PM Apr 19, 2017
Hey Macka the man is asking for help about possible problems with electrical side of frig, move into this modern world, for one they do work, they will keep your food cold or frozen and the wifes wine at a nice temp. So give it a rest we are talking about a 2003 frig not a 1970 frig.
Now to resolve the mans problem, not working on 240 volts, it seems like a heater element might be the trouble.
Bill B said
08:46 PM Apr 19, 2017
Check the power point the fridge is plugged into by running another item from that power point.
Three way fridges do take a long time to cool down when using 240v.
erad said
08:46 PM Apr 19, 2017
First things first:
1 Check that you have 240V to the fridge power point. Plug a drill or lead light etc in to the socket and see if it works.
2 It is most likely the heating element. If you have access to a multimeter, unplug the 240 V lead, set the selector switch to 240 and measure the resistance of the element between the active and the neutral pins (the angled pins). It should be around 25 Ohms or so, but if it reads infinity or very high, the element is probably stuffed. replacement element is not cheap - expect to pay $150 or more for it.
3 If the element is diff, it is a simple job to replace, but you will have to remove the fridge to get at it. This means disconnecting the gas line and also the 12V and 240 V connections, and then find the fridge securing screws and undo them. Slide the fridge out, and then you will see the 12V and the 240 V elements covered in a tin shield. Slide them out and you will fiond the duff element.
4 Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Make sure that you check the gas connections for leakage (using soapy water on the joint).
4 If you want to replace the fridge with a new one, you are looking at up to $1500 - they are not cheap in price.
If you are unsure of your abilities in this area, it is better that you get someone to check it for you, but the resistance check on the plug pins is easy and doesn't require any dismantling, other than clearing out the cupboard to get access to the plug.
mixo said
09:27 PM Apr 19, 2017
i must be one of the lucky ones mine works on 240 power but takes ages to get cold.
Gas works the best , it gets icy cold.
12 volts does nothing from what i have seen.
mixo
vanTas said
12:44 AM Apr 20, 2017
re ERAD's comments.
All good except:
With fridge plugged in and turned on, does a light show inside?
Put thermostat setting on mid-range. Leave half an hour.
Put hand in freezer, it should be a bit icey.
If no good, remove the outside venting panel, then disconnect from the power point, if not already done from inside the van. Try a drill in power point, as stated.
Put your multimeter on resistance , probably Rx1, or Rx10. Meter check:Touch the probes together - should get a reading of near zero ohms.
OK. The test:
Connect the probes to the angled pins on the plug of the fridge, either way around should be ok. Make good contact by a bit of a scratch if necessary.
Either use bulldog/alligator leads (Jaycar) to connect with, or get help to do next bit.
Operate the control switch from the 12v through to gas and see if the 240v position reveals itself.
The knob may be slack.
As stated 25ohms or so. But if nothing showing at all (reading infinity or close to it), then element is gone.
If no good then open the back and reveal the element wiring contacts.
(The knob is at the front, but the works are at the back, coupled by a long shaft)
MAKE SURE THE FRIDGE IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE 240VOLT SUPPLY.
Try checking the element itself, while it is in situ in the heating sleeve at the contacts onto the switch. This checks the switch itself.
If needing to replace the element, then it should slide out.
While there dust off the gas pilot reflector and viewing prism.
Re12 volt. Some models do not actually have a 12volt element, despite what is on the switch.
Ive been there and done all this myself.
Good luck.
Desert Dweller said
05:39 AM Apr 20, 2017
We have the same Dometic (Electrolux) fridge in our caravan. Last year we had the exact same problem as you (runs well on gas & 12v) but won't work on 240v.
We took it to Caravan Refrigeration Services in Melbourne & as Macka17 has said it needed a new element. It works fine now.
Cost us more than $120 to get it fitted though.
-- Edited by Desert Dweller on Thursday 20th of April 2017 05:40:33 AM
elliemike said
05:59 AM Apr 20, 2017
I have had my Fridge (RM2350) a couple of times not work on 240v. Frustratingly the first time was while doing the Great Central Road. Stayed the night at Warburton and plugged into 240v No Fridge Cooling. Could not figure it out till we got to Alice.
(This was no problem on the trip as we mostly Bush Camp and run on Gas.)
Each time it has been the plug has just worked its way out of the socket, just a little. or been knocked out while stowing gear in the seat locker.
Our fridge 240v GPO situated as it is under a seat, just having a look and "Yep" the plug is in and the switch is on, was not good enough. Physically pushing the plug in solved the problem. It had just worked it's way out of the socket so contact was lost. I have the plug secured now so it cannot work loose.
Same thing with the 12v element not working. I have had the wires come loose in the connector block. Just looking like they were still in place. Gave the positive a wiggle and it was not attached.
Fixed a camping neighbours fridge recently at Gracetown, same problem no 12 volt element. That again was wiring loose at the connector block.
-- Edited by elliemike on Thursday 20th of April 2017 06:02:43 AM
macka17 said
11:26 AM Apr 20, 2017
Radar.
I'm talking "Modern".
Well. 1998 and 2000 anyway.(last two)
The element was $120. Install was a 6 pack. and a fishing trip.
Me took him for some Barra.
On the Dometic it easy. Top Right.
Just check 240 wall plug first says he.
B4 going anywhere else.
That's the problem 60% of the time.
Either way.
If when.
ANYBODY replaces their fridge.
For ANY reason.
The 12\24\240 are comparable pricing to the 3 way.
and 1000 times better in every way.
That's my bit on it.
Only those in the Ark would still persevere with 3 way.
molly_chick said
06:52 PM Apr 21, 2017
Thanks for the advice. I believe that it is the heater element. Will be looking at getting this fixed in the next week or so.
Radar said
07:38 AM Apr 22, 2017
molly_chick wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I believe that it is the heater element. Will be looking at getting this fixed in the next week or so.
Let us all know how you went, us with similar 3 ways are genuinely interested for when and if things go wrong.
Being able to diagnosis the problem while away at camp can be a help.
molly_chick said
08:00 PM May 10, 2017
Just got the fridge fixed. The problem was the selector switch. It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position. When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense). Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired
Radar said
08:18 PM May 10, 2017
Good out come.
Thank you for letting us know.
Santa said
10:00 PM May 10, 2017
molly_chick wrote:
Just got the fridge fixed. The problem was the selector switch. It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position. When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense). Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired
Cheaper than a new fridge, well done.
elliemike said
10:00 AM May 12, 2017
molly_chick wrote:
Just got the fridge fixed. The problem was the selector switch. It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position. When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense). Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired
Hi, new to this forum. I recently upgraded from a camper trailer to a second hand 2003 Viscount pop top. Before purchasing I got the previous owners to turn on the fridge to ensure it was going. It worked fine. Over Easter we gave it a trial and found the fridge would not get cold on mains power. We were able to get it work very well on gas. Since returning home we have tried to put the switch on the fridge at different positions but no joy with it working on mains power. Any advice? The fridge is an Electrolux RM2350. There is only one fuse that I can see. All other electrical things work fine (lights, powerpoints etc)
Mains stopped working.
$120 for new element. 10 min's to install.
Shortly after. Dump.
Sorry . I don't like the useless things.
Even after 50 odd yrs of caravaning.
Slow learner are you Macka.
Aussie Paul.
Hey Macka the man is asking for help about possible problems with electrical side of frig, move into this modern world, for one they do work, they will keep your food cold or frozen and the wifes wine at a nice temp. So give it a rest we are talking about a 2003 frig not a 1970 frig.
Now to resolve the mans problem, not working on 240 volts, it seems like a heater element might be the trouble.
Three way fridges do take a long time to cool down when using 240v.
1 Check that you have 240V to the fridge power point. Plug a drill or lead light etc in to the socket and see if it works.
2 It is most likely the heating element. If you have access to a multimeter, unplug the 240 V lead, set the selector switch to 240 and measure the resistance of the element between the active and the neutral pins (the angled pins). It should be around 25 Ohms or so, but if it reads infinity or very high, the element is probably stuffed. replacement element is not cheap - expect to pay $150 or more for it.
3 If the element is diff, it is a simple job to replace, but you will have to remove the fridge to get at it. This means disconnecting the gas line and also the 12V and 240 V connections, and then find the fridge securing screws and undo them. Slide the fridge out, and then you will see the 12V and the 240 V elements covered in a tin shield. Slide them out and you will fiond the duff element.
4 Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Make sure that you check the gas connections for leakage (using soapy water on the joint).
4 If you want to replace the fridge with a new one, you are looking at up to $1500 - they are not cheap in price.
If you are unsure of your abilities in this area, it is better that you get someone to check it for you, but the resistance check on the plug pins is easy and doesn't require any dismantling, other than clearing out the cupboard to get access to the plug.
Gas works the best , it gets icy cold.
12 volts does nothing from what i have seen.
mixo
re ERAD's comments.
All good except:
With fridge plugged in and turned on, does a light show inside?
Put thermostat setting on mid-range. Leave half an hour.
Put hand in freezer, it should be a bit icey.
If no good, remove the outside venting panel, then disconnect from the power point, if not already done from inside the van. Try a drill in power point, as stated.
Put your multimeter on resistance , probably Rx1, or Rx10. Meter check:Touch the probes together - should get a reading of near zero ohms.
OK. The test:
Connect the probes to the angled pins on the plug of the fridge, either way around should be ok. Make good contact by a bit of a scratch if necessary.
Either use bulldog/alligator leads (Jaycar) to connect with, or get help to do next bit.
Operate the control switch from the 12v through to gas and see if the 240v position reveals itself.
The knob may be slack.
As stated 25ohms or so. But if nothing showing at all (reading infinity or close to it), then element is gone.
If no good then open the back and reveal the element wiring contacts.
(The knob is at the front, but the works are at the back, coupled by a long shaft)
MAKE SURE THE FRIDGE IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE 240VOLT SUPPLY.
Try checking the element itself, while it is in situ in the heating sleeve at the contacts onto the switch. This checks the switch itself.
If needing to replace the element, then it should slide out.
While there dust off the gas pilot reflector and viewing prism.
Re12 volt. Some models do not actually have a 12volt element, despite what is on the switch.
Ive been there and done all this myself.
Good luck.
We have the same Dometic (Electrolux) fridge in our caravan. Last year we had the exact same problem as you (runs well on gas & 12v) but won't work on 240v.
We took it to Caravan Refrigeration Services in Melbourne & as Macka17 has said it needed a new element. It works fine now.
Cost us more than $120 to get it fitted though.
-- Edited by Desert Dweller on Thursday 20th of April 2017 05:40:33 AM
I have had my Fridge (RM2350) a couple of times not work on 240v. Frustratingly the first time was while doing the Great Central Road. Stayed the night at Warburton and plugged into 240v No Fridge Cooling. Could not figure it out till we got to Alice.
(This was no problem on the trip as we mostly Bush Camp and run on Gas.)
Each time it has been the plug has just worked its way out of the socket, just a little. or been knocked out while stowing gear in the seat locker.
Our fridge 240v GPO situated as it is under a seat, just having a look and "Yep" the plug is in and the switch is on, was not good enough. Physically pushing the plug in solved the problem. It had just worked it's way out of the socket so contact was lost. I have the plug secured now so it cannot work loose.
Same thing with the 12v element not working. I have had the wires come loose in the connector block. Just looking like they were still in place. Gave the positive a wiggle and it was not attached.
Fixed a camping neighbours fridge recently at Gracetown, same problem no 12 volt element. That again was wiring loose at the connector block.
-- Edited by elliemike on Thursday 20th of April 2017 06:02:43 AM
I'm talking "Modern".
Well. 1998 and 2000 anyway.(last two)
The element was $120. Install was a 6 pack. and a fishing trip.
Me took him for some Barra.
On the Dometic it easy. Top Right.
Just check 240 wall plug first says he.
B4 going anywhere else.
That's the problem 60% of the time.
Either way.
If when.
ANYBODY replaces their fridge.
For ANY reason.
The 12\24\240 are comparable pricing to the 3 way.
and 1000 times better in every way.
That's my bit on it.
Only those in the Ark would still persevere with 3 way.
Let us all know how you went, us with similar 3 ways are genuinely interested for when and if things go wrong.
Being able to diagnosis the problem while away at camp can be a help.
Just got the fridge fixed. The problem was the selector switch. It appears that as the selector switch had not been moved over the years it had seized and locked on the 240V position. When we moved it to gas as it was seized the switch knob was not turning the selector (hope that makes sense). Total cost was $230 including $35 for the switch knob, thought this was a bit steep, but needed it repaired
Good out come.
Thank you for letting us know.
Cheaper than a new fridge, well done.
Thanks for the Update.