I have a weaco 50litre fridge, I need some advice regarding a back up battery. I have not got any room in car for a dual battery system and looking at a jump start 1900a unit. What can you suggest
Regards
Howpar
Peter_n_Margaret said
08:40 PM Apr 19, 2017
A "jump start" is for starting and is very expensive for what you want to do with it.
Better to simply buy a good quality AGM deep cycle battery and put it in a box. You will get lots more capacity for your money.
Cheers,
Peter
macka17 said
01:53 AM Apr 20, 2017
What car.
Landfall said
07:27 AM Apr 20, 2017
macka17 wrote:
What car.
His car
Aus-Kiwi said
09:29 AM Apr 20, 2017
Roof racks. & solar panel ?
Dick0 said
04:42 PM Apr 20, 2017
Landfall wrote:
macka17 wrote:
What car.
His car
I was going to buy His car but could not find one so I bought That car.
brickies said
05:03 PM Apr 20, 2017
The OP will think we are all Wangcars
Dick0 said
05:08 PM Apr 20, 2017
brickies wrote:
The OP will think we are all Wangcars
Or Dinky Trucks.
dogbox said
07:53 PM Apr 20, 2017
never a silly question only silly answers
Bass said
08:09 PM Apr 20, 2017
Left my 50lt weaco on for 7 hrs by accident, v8 diesel started up fine they don't use much power and have a low voltage shutoff. If you are concerned get a thumper they are great.
Cheers Bass
Tony Bev said
10:09 PM Apr 20, 2017
howpar wrote:
Hi All
I have a weaco 50litre fridge, I need some advice regarding a back up battery. I have not got any room in car for a dual battery system and looking at a jump start 1900a unit. What can you suggest
Regards
Howpar
Hello Howpar
I have quoted your post, so that you will realise that I am not a member, of the silly answer brigade
Not exactly sure what you are saying, so I will make some assumptions
If you are going to use the jump start 1900a unit to run your Waeco fridge, it will not last as it will not like being over discharged
If you are going to run the Waeco fridge off the engine battery, with the vehicle stopped, and use the jump start 1900a, to start your vehicle, then it is a bad idea, as the engine battery will also not like to be over discharged
I agree with Peter n Margaret, you should have a deep cycle battery to run the Waeco fridge
As you say that you do not have the room to fit a dual battery system, the the advice from Aus-Kiwi, of a solar panel to charge the deep cycle battery, is worth looking at
Hope that this advice is helpful to you
Dick0 said
04:02 PM Apr 21, 2017
howpar wrote:
Hi All
I have a weaco 50litre fridge, I need some advice regarding a back up battery. I have not got any room in car for a dual battery system and looking at a jump start 1900a unit. What can you suggest
Regards
Howpar
Hi howpar,
How about fitting a roof rack for solar panel/s and trying to make space for a deep cycle battery...somewhere in the vehicle?
Otherwise, connect solar to vehicle battery through appropriate solar controller?
Alternatively, use portable solar panels and connect to vehicle battery?
Many options could be available.
Pam_Chris said
10:04 PM May 25, 2024
I can run my 50ltr weaco fridge off the caravan battery using a hella/merit plug without problems but is starting to get a bit heavy lifting in and out. I've tried running out of the rear of Ute through a redarc battery isolator running at 14.5v but it fails to start. Does the weaco have an over voltage cut off? Nothing I can find in the manual. Yes I have tried various fuses (10, 15, 20 amp).
I will be setting up a battery and box soon but in the meantime......
-- Edited by Pam_Chris on Saturday 25th of May 2024 10:05:57 PM
Dougwe said
07:41 AM May 26, 2024
I have one of these For my Kings 45lt fridge. I run it on car In the canopy area of the Collie while driving then when stopped change over the Kings Battery. It will last all day OR all night. Some say they get 24 hours out of it. I run the fridge on 1c for fridge or -10c for freezer. I strapped it to the side wall under the canopy so it is safe. It can be charged via 12v or 240v. Takes about 4 hours from 1 out of 5 lights to charge.
Edit....Ooops, I just noticed this thread was way back in 2017 so probably the OP would have it all sorted but I'll leave my comment here for others. I'm off to Specsavers now.
-- Edited by Dougwe on Sunday 26th of May 2024 07:46:19 AM
Whenarewethere said
07:44 AM May 26, 2024
Screenshot of the Danfoss data sheet. 12v's maximum voltage is 17v.
Interesting, I'm getting 1amp reading off the multimeter but only an error reading on the fridge. Have tried a kings 60ltr fridge on both the Ute and van with the same result. Have checked for shorts back to the isolator but that's clear, nor is the plug socket faulty and cables are OK as they work on the van.
Thanks for the info from Danfoss
rgren2 said
10:53 AM May 26, 2024
Are your cables too long for their gauge? Voltage drops when you apply a load and available current diminishes.
Pam_Chris said
11:11 AM May 26, 2024
Have used 4awg to isolator and 8 awg (6m) frm isolator to hella plug.
No voltage drop
Whenarewethere said
09:21 PM May 26, 2024
I have done a bit (endless) of testing on the Waeco 28L fridge. 3 days 24 hours a day testing amps & voltage at high ambient temperature heating a room winter with 3 oil heaters.
The 50L fridge compressor uses a whisker more power than the 28L fridge.
The fridge has a soft start. So no stress on the battery. Probably about 4.5amps (3.8amps for 28L fridge) on starting dropping to 4.0amps on a typical on part of the cycle for the 50L model.
Have you measured voltage of the fridge while it is trying to start. Measuring voltage will no typical load at the end of the cable is of no use.
If the fridge works connected directly to the battery (or another battery directly) & voltage double checked, then there is a problem in the network.
Not to forget that the 2m 12 volt standard plugin cable with fuse has a voltage drop of about 0.17 volts.
Another bit of voltage drop on the one's "long wiring loom". Why I put an Anderson plug on the fridge, to remove the BS cable. Also rewired the fridge internally as the wiring was too thin.
Pam_Chris said
04:25 PM Jun 3, 2024
Have now identified the problem. Cable and everything have checked out OK. The problem was the earth, I was getting a reading of 14.?v but the ampherage was virtually non existant. Once I moved the earth to a new location all things wonderfully happened. Both fridges are now working to spec.
Thanks all
Whenarewethere said
06:33 PM Jun 3, 2024
Sounds the same as early model Land Rover issues. Fixed with a second earth.
Pradokakadudavid said
03:55 PM Jun 16, 2024
I just fitted a 120AH lithium battery in a battery box on the cheap for around $1000 from itech. Not the best gear in the world I know but it does the job keeping my 75 litre fridge freezer cold relatively cheaply. I haven't bothered to do the DCDC charger thingo yet as my Patrol spends most of the time in the garage. I just charge the battery up using an anderson plug type battery charger and it keeps its charge for a few days. I plug the fridge into my cigarette lighter socket when travelling and this works well also. This was the cheapest way I could find to do it and it has worked very well so far. I can give you the exact specs and pics if you wish.
Cheers.
David
-- Edited by Pradokakadudavid on Sunday 16th of June 2024 03:55:41 PM
-- Edited by Pradokakadudavid on Sunday 16th of June 2024 03:56:15 PM
Whenarewethere said
07:43 PM Jun 16, 2024
Be careful using cigarette sockets. Plugs have a habit of working their way out, even on Sydney roads, let alone the outback. Also very poor electrical connection on the back end.
Arcing due to too thin material.
Replaced cigarette socket with Anderson plug so fridge actually stays plugged in.
Replaced standard 16awg two metre cable with 12awg cable to minimise pointless voltage drop due to cost cutting manufacturing.
Also put circuit breaker in the fridge (red button just visible above original plug).
Hi All
I have a weaco 50litre fridge, I need some advice regarding a back up battery. I have not got any room in car for a dual battery system and looking at a jump start 1900a unit. What can you suggest
Regards
Howpar
Better to simply buy a good quality AGM deep cycle battery and put it in a box. You will get lots more capacity for your money.
Cheers,
Peter
His car
I was going to buy His car but could not find one so I bought That car.
Or Dinky Trucks.
Cheers Bass
Hello Howpar
I have quoted your post, so that you will realise that I am not a member, of the silly answer brigade
Not exactly sure what you are saying, so I will make some assumptions
If you are going to use the jump start 1900a unit to run your Waeco fridge, it will not last as it will not like being over discharged
If you are going to run the Waeco fridge off the engine battery, with the vehicle stopped, and use the jump start 1900a, to start your vehicle, then it is a bad idea, as the engine battery will also not like to be over discharged
I agree with Peter n Margaret, you should have a deep cycle battery to run the Waeco fridge
As you say that you do not have the room to fit a dual battery system, the the advice from Aus-Kiwi, of a solar panel to charge the deep cycle battery, is worth looking at
Hope that this advice is helpful to you
Hi howpar,
How about fitting a roof rack for solar panel/s and trying to make space for a deep cycle battery...somewhere in the vehicle?
Otherwise, connect solar to vehicle battery through appropriate solar controller?
Alternatively, use portable solar panels and connect to vehicle battery?
Many options could be available.
I can run my 50ltr weaco fridge off the caravan battery using a hella/merit plug without problems but is starting to get a bit heavy lifting in and out. I've tried running out of the rear of Ute through a redarc battery isolator running at 14.5v but it fails to start. Does the weaco have an over voltage cut off? Nothing I can find in the manual.
Yes I have tried various fuses (10, 15, 20 amp).
I will be setting up a battery and box soon but in the meantime......
-- Edited by Pam_Chris on Saturday 25th of May 2024 10:05:57 PM
I have one of these For my Kings 45lt fridge. I run it on car In the canopy area of the Collie while driving then when stopped change over the Kings Battery. It will last all day OR all night. Some say they get 24 hours out of it. I run the fridge on 1c for fridge or -10c for freezer. I strapped it to the side wall under the canopy so it is safe. It can be charged via 12v or 240v. Takes about 4 hours from 1 out of 5 lights to charge.
Edit....Ooops, I just noticed this thread was way back in 2017 so probably the OP would have it all sorted but I'll leave my comment here for others. I'm off to Specsavers now.
-- Edited by Dougwe on Sunday 26th of May 2024 07:46:19 AM
Screenshot of the Danfoss data sheet. 12v's maximum voltage is 17v.
Interesting, I'm getting 1amp reading off the multimeter but only an error reading on the fridge. Have tried a kings 60ltr fridge on both the Ute and van with the same result. Have checked for shorts back to the isolator but that's clear, nor is the plug socket faulty and cables are OK as they work on the van.
Thanks for the info from Danfoss
No voltage drop
I have done a bit (endless) of testing on the Waeco 28L fridge. 3 days 24 hours a day testing amps & voltage at high ambient temperature heating a room winter with 3 oil heaters.
The 50L fridge compressor uses a whisker more power than the 28L fridge.
The fridge has a soft start. So no stress on the battery. Probably about 4.5amps (3.8amps for 28L fridge) on starting dropping to 4.0amps on a typical on part of the cycle for the 50L model.
Have you measured voltage of the fridge while it is trying to start. Measuring voltage will no typical load at the end of the cable is of no use.
If the fridge works connected directly to the battery (or another battery directly) & voltage double checked, then there is a problem in the network.
Not to forget that the 2m 12 volt standard plugin cable with fuse has a voltage drop of about 0.17 volts.
Another bit of voltage drop on the one's "long wiring loom". Why I put an Anderson plug on the fridge, to remove the BS cable. Also rewired the fridge internally as the wiring was too thin.
Thanks all
Sounds the same as early model Land Rover issues. Fixed with a second earth.
I just fitted a 120AH lithium battery in a battery box on the cheap for around $1000 from itech. Not the best gear in the world I know but it does the job keeping my 75 litre fridge freezer cold relatively cheaply. I haven't bothered to do the DCDC charger thingo yet as my Patrol spends most of the time in the garage. I just charge the battery up using an anderson plug type battery charger and it keeps its charge for a few days. I plug the fridge into my cigarette lighter socket when travelling and this works well also. This was the cheapest way I could find to do it and it has worked very well so far. I can give you the exact specs and pics if you wish.
Cheers.
David
-- Edited by Pradokakadudavid on Sunday 16th of June 2024 03:55:41 PM
-- Edited by Pradokakadudavid on Sunday 16th of June 2024 03:56:15 PM
Be careful using cigarette sockets. Plugs have a habit of working their way out, even on Sydney roads, let alone the outback. Also very poor electrical connection on the back end.
Arcing due to too thin material.
Replaced cigarette socket with Anderson plug so fridge actually stays plugged in.
Replaced standard 16awg two metre cable with 12awg cable to minimise pointless voltage drop due to cost cutting manufacturing.
Also put circuit breaker in the fridge (red button just visible above original plug).