Towing caravan today the PowerTrain light came on. Checked the manual it says it will go to limp mode, hence not overheating the turbo and to go to dealership! Bit hard, currently at Marla SA. 475 from Alice, 780 from Port Augusta.
Total care RACV with tow pack only gives us 100km free towing. No Mazda dealership in Alice. Ford can help on 4/5.
Got the tow man coming later he's at Oodnadatta but dont know what he's going to say yet.
Has anyone had this issue? I guess I'm wondering is it safe to tow? Nice man at Ford Alice said to put it in sports mode and drive slower. Don't want to be stuck with no signal and break down.
On way to Darwin
thanks Dianne
-- Edited by gooba53 on Monday 24th of April 2017 05:37:56 PM
macka17 said
05:55 PM Apr 24, 2017
How heavy is the van.
it's pretty heavy type if one in Avatar.
2 1\4 to 2 1\2 ton about it, for most Jap utes.
Safely.
And he's right about the sports mode.
Or. work on rev's and don't use heavy foot.
Let the gears do the work.
Not the fuel tank if holding higher gears.
I have 4 spd Auto D-Max.. and drop down to 3
as soon as rev's hit 2200ish.
Do have a Converter lock up fitted though
For going downhill with van.
Moonraker said
07:04 PM Apr 24, 2017
Dont have a BT 50 but based on what you say including the statement made by the Ford Mechanic your transmittion oil temperature has got too high causing the tug to go into limp home mode. This mode is to protect the tug from major engine or transmittion damage. As the mechanic has suggested you will probably be better off driving in S mode on an auto gear box. If you have 5 or 6 S mode gears then 4 is likely the direct 1:1 gear ratio which will cause less heating of you transmittion oil and the best gear to tow in. Driving speed 90 max to keep engine revs down a little especially with a heavy van near your max tow weight. Fitting a scangauge 2 with transmittion fluid temperature gauge is a very good cheap method of keeping a eye on your TFT as well as a lot of other stuff.
Of course there are other reasons you tug will go into limp home mode but this is most likely from what you say. Others on this forum may disagree so I suggest you give it a go and prove this for yourself.
Am assuming its an automatic, have you been towing in "S" sports mode ?
gooba53 said
08:44 PM Apr 24, 2017
iana wrote:
Am assuming its an automatic, have you been towing in "S" sports mode ?
Yes automatic and no, havent been towing in S mode. This was a suggestion from the mechanic in Alice Springs. We are stationery at Marla at mo
gooba53 said
08:47 PM Apr 24, 2017
Thanks Kebbin. I usually go straight to search but I guess in the frustration of the day, just forgot.
Lots of interesting ideas. Some we have already explored, lots to consider!
gooba53 said
08:49 PM Apr 24, 2017
We've towed over 70000 with this van and car and have always been so confident with the vehicle, hope its an easy fix
iana said
09:42 PM Apr 24, 2017
I know its probably too late, but the manual advises to tow in "S"mode, but its not written in the towing section, but in the transmission section, one would have thought if they were using their brains, they would at least put a reference in the towing section to this.
Water in the system may also cause this, and I know we had a Ranger that went into limp mode, I have in my minds a hole in the induction system, but can't be sure.
ballast2 said
10:57 PM Apr 24, 2017
G'day Gooba53. I have a 2013 BT 50. Had something slightly different happen to mine and it went into limp mode. After trying a few things, it was suggested that I disconnect the battery wait a small time and reconnect. I thought that it couldn't hurt so did so. After reconnecting all seemed ok and continued on without any further problems. I'm not saying it will fix yours but may be worth a try. Up to you. Good luck. Cheers.
ps I agree with towing in s mode.
-- Edited by ballast2 on Monday 24th of April 2017 10:59:03 PM
macka17 said
12:10 AM Apr 25, 2017
Another good thing to do when towing larger loads in Auto.
Is to install a "Torque Converter Lock up switch".
Specially for hills. Up and down.
Read up on them. I'm wrapped in mine.
Ron-D said
07:34 PM Apr 25, 2017
Mine goes into limp mode when it's had a lot of hard climbing it's done it 3 times in five years ,it's just a fail safe device that resets itself when you pull over and stop for a couple of minUtes,my brother inlaw has had his do the same thing,these little 2.5 to 3ltr deisils can work there backsides off and sometimes they go into protection mode makes sense does it not...
ballast2 said
09:21 PM Apr 25, 2017
G'day gooba53. Please let us know the out come of your problems. As a BT50 owner any advice on potential problems are most welcome.
Cheers.
Craig1 said
09:23 PM Apr 25, 2017
Hi Gooba, try ' ozmazda.com.au" lots of answers there,. but the disconnect the battery works for a lot of things, and definitely tow in ' S" when you get going
gooba53 said
09:26 PM Apr 25, 2017
Update and thanks to all for help.
RACV counterpart RAA arrived this morning. He had heard of this issue before but didn't have an answer. So the following was suggested by the him and decided to follow.
As suggested on here, tow in "S" mode. Checked out manual and confirmed we should have been doing that.
As suggested on here, if light comes on disconnect battery , wait reconnect etc
Tow between 85 and 90
Agree it's a fail safe device.
No fuel at Marla, not expecting mechanic to repair the submersable pump for all the diesel at all today, who knows when?
RAA didn't have any diesel do we drained the deisel out of our (travelling companions and our) deisel heater tanks and took off for Kulgera, 180km away.
Arrived safely at Alice Springs
Light didn't come on and we had good power. The revs are 200rpm higher in s mode but so far so good, fuel consumption is minimal difference.
thanks again for your help and interest.
iana said
11:38 PM Apr 25, 2017
I guess the extra fuel consumption is a minor consideration if it saves the gearbox. I tow in "S" mode, and the GPS beside me won't let me go over 90K. I have also installed a primary fuel filter, ahead of the main filter so I can keep an eye out for water, water deals a death blow to the injector pump. You had me looking up oil temp gauges for the gearbox oil, may be a worth while investment. My BT50 seems to love the load behind it. Hope you don't have any more problems.
macka17 said
10:49 AM Apr 26, 2017
You'll "probably" find the fuel consumption
will be slightly less, not more.
As less load on engine\transm. at lower speeds.
That Scanguage give Transm temp's for Patrol. Mazda.
2012 on, 5 spd D-Max.
but. unfortunately NOT the 2010 D-Max 4 cog.
Bummer.
It's good for most other readings though.
Incl, deleting warning lights.
Moonraker said
08:05 PM Apr 26, 2017
gooba53 wrote:
Update and thanks to all for help.
RACV counterpart RAA arrived this morning. He had heard of this issue before but didn't have an answer. So the following was suggested by the him and decided to follow.
As suggested on here, tow in "S" mode. Checked out manual and confirmed we should have been doing that.
As suggested on here, if light comes on disconnect battery , wait reconnect etc
Tow between 85 and 90
Agree it's a fail safe device.
No fuel at Marla, not expecting mechanic to repair the submersable pump for all the diesel at all today, who knows when?
RAA didn't have any diesel do we drained the deisel out of our (travelling companions and our) deisel heater tanks and took off for Kulgera, 180km away.
Arrived safely at Alice Springs
Light didn't come on and we had good power. The revs are 200rpm higher in s mode but so far so good, fuel consumption is minimal difference.
thanks again for your help and interest.
May I suggest that as you have been towing in D for many kms and as you have got the Trans fluid temp up high enough to kick- in the LH mode that you change the transmittion fluid at the next service. I also confirm and IMO the best $200 you can spend on a tug is to buy a scangauge 2 especially if you can use the TFT gauge. The Scangauge just plugs into the computer diagnostic socket usually located under the dash near below the steering wheel.
-- Edited by Moonraker on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 08:06:23 PM
gooba53 said
09:11 PM Apr 26, 2017
Thanks Macka and Moonraker. Wasnt aware of that guage before Macka said. Now that the stress level is down a bit , will read up on it. And we have a service booked in the next 1500km so will definately discuss this current issue and will suggest changing the transmission fluid, if it's not part of the service.
thanks again
macka17 said
02:23 AM Apr 27, 2017
GooBa.
Important.......
When you do Transm "Service" Get them to do a full "flush" over a service. (including the filter)
Service only drains pan. leaving bulk of "dirty oil" still in Converter and rest of lines.
A "flush" does that. Flushes it all out completely. Uses around 15\18 ltrs. Depending on veh.
Front up with a 20 ltr drum, it'll be cheaper.
and you'll have a coupla ltrs for topping up.
Basically.
The ONLY way to get clean RED fluid back in system again.
Look it up on GOOGLE Auto transm flushing. and why.
And Castrol \shell, whoever. Tech services on Google.
Will tell you WHICh fluid to use for your veh mod, yr.
PPS.
Book transm at Auto Transm place. Separately.
B4 service.
It'll be cheaper believe me.
They'll only do same thing and charge "handling" costs on top.
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:25:01 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:26:30 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:28:47 AM
ken thomas said
05:51 PM Apr 27, 2017
I had my ranger transmission flushed out and it only took 10 lts of oil
My powertrain light came on with loss of power and it turned out to be a split in the turbo hose near the battery. FYI in future
Ken
macka17 said
12:03 AM Apr 29, 2017
Ken.
My 2010 4 spd D-Max.
When I flushed. used near 17ltrs.
to come out real clear red fluid.
Probably used a coupla three'ish more, than total capacity.
But worth it to get FULL flush.
As long as you get it coming out,(on idle) clear red.
it'll be fine.
No matter what the volume used hey.
I do mine every 12 months too.
Transm, Brakes and steering.
They only a coupla ltrs involved so well worth it.
Symo2540 said
08:13 PM Apr 30, 2017
Like everyone has said Sports on the auto is the way to go. Just completed 7 weeks in Tasmania with BT50 dual cab over 5.5t all up.
Have a Scan Guage 11 monitoring Battery Voltage, Instantaneous Fuel consumption, Coolant Temp and Auto Transmission Oil Temp.
Very interesting watching the Auto oil and Coolant temps vary with hills and gears. Auto went up tp 110c on one climb, don't know what the limits are. Checked scan guage no codes set so must be under the limit.
Coolant temp varies about 15c without the needle moving, have to wonder.
Hope its nothing serious.
Being able to check codes may assisr if troubles happen.
Baz421 said
08:50 PM Apr 30, 2017
Symo2540 wrote:
Like everyone has said Sports on the auto is the way to go. Just completed 7 weeks in Tasmania with BT50 dual cab over 5.5t all up. Have a Scan Guage 11 monitoring Battery Voltage, Instantaneous Fuel consumption, Coolant Temp and Auto Transmission Oil Temp. Very interesting watching the Auto oil and Coolant temps vary with hills and gears. Auto went up tp 110c on one climb, don't know what the limits are. Checked scan guage no codes set so must be under the limit. Coolant temp varies about 15c without the needle moving, have to wonder. Hope its nothing serious. Being able to check codes may assisr if troubles happen.
I find it strange you monitor things like auto trans temp without knowing when to stop driving due to excess temp.
110C = 230F which is getting a bit hot see link below, to see how it reduces trans life.
According to this paper: Normal operating temperature for an automatic transmission is about the same as the engine temperature, i.e., about 195°F. The temperature inside the tIt doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion.
Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operateorque converter, while pulling a big load from a standing start, could easily rise above 350°F.
Another good thing to do when towing larger loads in Auto.
Is to install a "Torque Converter Lock up switch". Specially for hills. Up and down.
Read up on them. I'm wrapped in mine.
Macka, this post of yours is a bit short.
Cheers, John.
Aus-Kiwi said
08:37 AM May 2, 2017
Chances are it's ok . It's gone into limp mode BEFORE any damage !! Doesn't stop the valtures ripping you tho ! Lol Hope all is fine now ? Happy camping .
gooba53 said
09:36 PM May 3, 2017
update.
Sorry we've had no signal. Luckily, thankfully, strangely all is going well.
Doing as I said before, towing in sports mode and travelling approx 90kmh.
I Dianne, wasn't aware Stuart has a scan guage. It's an RACV device. It's not working. When the Racv roadside man came he plugged it in and yep not working. have emailed RACV who have sent us some trouble shooting info. Just need some time with good signal to sort it out. I'm hopeful that will assist with the queries.
Will get back to you after our service in Darwin.
Thanks everyone
Stl said
07:42 AM May 5, 2017
Hi, I have a 2012 BT and the light would come on then go off when switch motor off and not come on for a week - month-3 months. etc.(less than 20,000 klms first time) Long story short after too many times to count back to mazda, would show up as a fault but not define ! Suggestions, slow down, auto is getting hot, tow in s mode, accelerating to hard, go figure. I could never get the light to go on for them. Left it with them for a week for them to drive, no light ! Then when driving without van light came on pulled over took a photo of dash took car back to mazda showed photo. They wanted me to book it in again, I said no, it is staying with you, ( I was lucky I had picked up some casual work with a car supplied) it might as well take up your garage space as mine, drive it, do what you have to, call me when it's fixed. About 3 weeks later I get a call to say the light had came on ( they used to drive it every day) so they put it on the "machine" and low and behold it was a faulty crank angle sensor. Nothing to do with the power train.
gooba53 said
01:20 PM May 18, 2017
Currently at Corroboree Park Tavern. Had the car serviced in Darwin, there was no code recorded on our computer so left all well alone.
Hasnt missed a beat so hopefully it's all systems a go!!!!!!!!!!!!
Higsby said
10:42 AM Dec 23, 2020
I have a 2011 bt50 3.2. It started to try to stall at tick over, powertrain and heater plug warming lights came on. Changed air filter, fuel filter, cleaned inlet manifold but still the same. Read an article on RACQ site which warned of using wrong grade of engine oil. I changed both and now no problems though it did take a couple of runs to clear up completely.
when in doubt ask my Grey Nomad mates.
Towing caravan today the PowerTrain light came on. Checked the manual it says it will go to limp mode, hence not overheating the turbo and to go to dealership! Bit hard, currently at Marla SA. 475 from Alice, 780 from Port Augusta.
Total care RACV with tow pack only gives us 100km free towing. No Mazda dealership in Alice. Ford can help on 4/5.
Got the tow man coming later he's at Oodnadatta but dont know what he's going to say yet.
Has anyone had this issue? I guess I'm wondering is it safe to tow? Nice man at Ford Alice said to put it in sports mode and drive slower. Don't want to be stuck with no signal and break down.
On way to Darwin
thanks Dianne
-- Edited by gooba53 on Monday 24th of April 2017 05:37:56 PM
it's pretty heavy type if one in Avatar.
2 1\4 to 2 1\2 ton about it, for most Jap utes.
Safely.
And he's right about the sports mode.
Or. work on rev's and don't use heavy foot.
Let the gears do the work.
Not the fuel tank if holding higher gears.
I have 4 spd Auto D-Max.. and drop down to 3
as soon as rev's hit 2200ish.
Do have a Converter lock up fitted though
For going downhill with van.
Of course there are other reasons you tug will go into limp home mode but this is most likely from what you say. Others on this forum may disagree so I suggest you give it a go and prove this for yourself.
thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t62463736/bt50-owners-help-please-power-loss-when-towing/
thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t63483961/mazda-bt-50-problem/
Thanks Kebbin. I usually go straight to search but I guess in the frustration of the day, just forgot.
Lots of interesting ideas. Some we have already explored, lots to consider!
We've towed over 70000 with this van and car and have always been so confident with the vehicle, hope its an easy fix
Water in the system may also cause this, and I know we had a Ranger that went into limp mode, I have in my minds a hole in the induction system, but can't be sure.
G'day Gooba53. I have a 2013 BT 50. Had something slightly different happen to mine and it went into limp mode. After trying a few things, it was suggested that I disconnect the battery wait a small time and reconnect. I thought that it couldn't hurt so did so. After reconnecting all seemed ok and continued on without any further problems. I'm not saying it will fix yours but may be worth a try. Up to you. Good luck.
Cheers.
ps I agree with towing in s mode.
-- Edited by ballast2 on Monday 24th of April 2017 10:59:03 PM
Is to install a "Torque Converter Lock up switch".
Specially for hills. Up and down.
Read up on them. I'm wrapped in mine.
Mine goes into limp mode when it's had a lot of hard climbing it's done it 3 times in five years ,it's just a fail safe device that resets itself when you pull over and stop for a couple of minUtes,my brother inlaw has had his do the same thing,these little 2.5 to 3ltr deisils can work there backsides off and sometimes they go into protection mode makes sense does it not...
Cheers.
Update and thanks to all for help.
RACV counterpart RAA arrived this morning. He had heard of this issue before but didn't have an answer. So the following was suggested by the him and decided to follow.
As suggested on here, tow in "S" mode. Checked out manual and confirmed we should have been doing that.
As suggested on here, if light comes on disconnect battery , wait reconnect etc
Tow between 85 and 90
Agree it's a fail safe device.
No fuel at Marla, not expecting mechanic to repair the submersable pump for all the diesel at all today, who knows when?
RAA didn't have any diesel do we drained the deisel out of our (travelling companions and our) deisel heater tanks and took off for Kulgera, 180km away.
Arrived safely at Alice Springs
Light didn't come on and we had good power. The revs are 200rpm higher in s mode but so far so good, fuel consumption is minimal difference.
thanks again for your help and interest.
will be slightly less, not more.
As less load on engine\transm. at lower speeds.
That Scanguage give Transm temp's for Patrol. Mazda.
2012 on, 5 spd D-Max.
but. unfortunately NOT the 2010 D-Max 4 cog.
Bummer.
It's good for most other readings though.
Incl, deleting warning lights.
May I suggest that as you have been towing in D for many kms and as you have got the Trans fluid temp up high enough to kick- in the LH mode that you change the transmittion fluid at the next service. I also confirm and IMO the best $200 you can spend on a tug is to buy a scangauge 2 especially if you can use the TFT gauge. The Scangauge just plugs into the computer diagnostic socket usually located under the dash near below the steering wheel.
-- Edited by Moonraker on Wednesday 26th of April 2017 08:06:23 PM
Thanks Macka and Moonraker. Wasnt aware of that guage before Macka said. Now that the stress level is down a bit , will read up on it. And we have a service booked in the next 1500km so will definately discuss this current issue and will suggest changing the transmission fluid, if it's not part of the service.
thanks again
GooBa.
Important.......
When you do Transm "Service"
Get them to do a full "flush" over a service. (including the filter)
Service only drains pan.
leaving bulk of "dirty oil" still in Converter and rest of lines.
A "flush" does that. Flushes it all out completely.
Uses around 15\18 ltrs. Depending on veh.
Front up with a 20 ltr drum, it'll be cheaper.
and you'll have a coupla ltrs for topping up.
Basically.
The ONLY way to get clean RED fluid back in system again.
Look it up on GOOGLE
Auto transm flushing. and why.
And Castrol \shell, whoever. Tech services on Google.
Will tell you WHICh fluid to use for your veh mod, yr.
PPS.
Book transm at Auto Transm place. Separately.
B4 service.
It'll be cheaper believe me.
They'll only do same thing and charge "handling" costs on top.
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:25:01 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:26:30 AM
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 27th of April 2017 02:28:47 AM
My powertrain light came on with loss of power and it turned out to be a split in the turbo hose near the battery. FYI in future
Ken
My 2010 4 spd D-Max.
When I flushed. used near 17ltrs.
to come out real clear red fluid.
Probably used a coupla three'ish more, than total capacity.
But worth it to get FULL flush.
As long as you get it coming out,(on idle) clear red.
it'll be fine.
No matter what the volume used hey.
I do mine every 12 months too.
Transm, Brakes and steering.
They only a coupla ltrs involved so well worth it.
I find it strange you monitor things like auto trans temp without knowing when to stop driving due to excess temp.
110C = 230F which is getting a bit hot see link below, to see how it reduces trans life.
https://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm&h=506&w=595&tbnid=JXe7T_aVDABlrM:&tbnh=160&tbnw=187&usg=__FYLqq6PzYtYyekn1_8Su1lY0ZWM=&vet=10ahUKEwi7_7Wn_svTAhUIgrwKHcnXDFUQ9QEIKDAA..i&docid=BiC6VQFku9gHyM&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi7_7Wn_svTAhUIgrwKHcnXDFUQ9QEIKDAA#h=506&imgdii=f_C5JLIu6K-dVM:&spf=110&tbnh=160&tbnw=187&vet=10ahUKEwi7_7Wn_svTAhUIgrwKHcnXDFUQ9QEIKDAA..i&w=595
According to this paper: Normal operating temperature for an automatic transmission is about the same as the engine temperature, i.e., about 195°F. The temperature inside the tIt doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion.
Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operateorque converter, while pulling a big load from a standing start, could easily rise above 350°F.
http://scangauge.com.au/atf-temperature-a-gauge/
Hope this info helps avoid transmission problem.
Cheers Baz
Macka, this post of yours is a bit short.
Cheers, John.
update.
Sorry we've had no signal. Luckily, thankfully, strangely all is going well.
Doing as I said before, towing in sports mode and travelling approx 90kmh.
I Dianne, wasn't aware Stuart has a scan guage. It's an RACV device. It's not working. When the Racv roadside man came he plugged it in and yep not working. have emailed RACV who have sent us some trouble shooting info. Just need some time with good signal to sort it out. I'm hopeful that will assist with the queries.
Will get back to you after our service in Darwin.
Thanks everyone
Hi, I have a 2012 BT and the light would come on then go off when switch motor off and not come on for a week - month-3 months. etc.(less than 20,000 klms first time) Long story short after too many times to count back to mazda, would show up as a fault but not define ! Suggestions, slow down, auto is getting hot, tow in s mode, accelerating to hard, go figure. I could never get the light to go on for them. Left it with them for a week for them to drive, no light ! Then when driving without van light came on pulled over took a photo of dash took car back to mazda showed photo. They wanted me to book it in again, I said no, it is staying with you, ( I was lucky I had picked up some casual work with a car supplied) it might as well take up your garage space as mine, drive it, do what you have to, call me when it's fixed. About 3 weeks later I get a call to say the light had came on ( they used to drive it every day) so they put it on the "machine" and low and behold it was a faulty crank angle sensor. Nothing to do with the power train.
Currently at Corroboree Park Tavern. Had the car serviced in Darwin, there was no code recorded on our computer so left all well alone.
Hasnt missed a beat so hopefully it's all systems a go!!!!!!!!!!!!