We are new at this and my wife and I just bought a 1999 Toyota Hiace Camper Van. It's basic but will suit our needs. Has anybody got any knowledge how this contraption below works. I know it's for a Dual Battery System. I've followed the leads and the Positive is connected to the Positive on the car battery. The On/Off switch has me beat, How does it work? Do I turn it....pull it....do my nut and hit it with a hammer? Will I be constantly draining from my main battery. We bought a secondary Heavy Duty battery to run lights as we don't have a fridge. We have a fold out awning with a LED light bar and don't want to drain the main battery. Missus is not to impressed about having to push start me if we go flat. No sense of humour. We bought an Anderson Plug and wire that the guy at REPCO recommended. So can set that up to the second battery. Any help on this thing appreciated.
The two pole grey/white item at the bottom left is an Anderson connector and is *probably* (check before plugging anything in to it!) for an external battery charger.
The switch works by inserting a 'T' handle with a sticky-out-bit (technical term) on the base into the switch and turning. The handle should be retained by the shiny spring clip in the centre... which it isn't :(
robol said
07:52 AM May 13, 2017
That looks the same as I had in an ex Telstra van I once bought, It was part of a sink and water heating unit for workers washing hands. You will need a key to turn it on/off.
Of course that doesn't mean it isn't wired for something else.
Good Luck Rob.
Jaahn said
08:04 AM May 13, 2017
Hi robol,
Here is a link to see what the handle look like for that switch.
You can see they are simple enough. You should be able to find them locally.
I hope the battery you bought as a second heavy duty house battery is deep cycle ?? If it is not a suitable type it may have a short life.
I cannot see what the two round "live" things are? power sockets for powering things ?
Jaahn
PeterD said
09:20 AM May 13, 2017
Franglen wrote:
We are new at this and my wife and I just bought a 1999 Toyota Hiace Camper Van. It's basic but will suit our needs. Has anybody got any knowledge how this contraption below works. I know it's for a Dual Battery System.
As said above, it looks like the camper was originally a Telstra service vehicle. That box would be a control box for their power needs and would most likely not have been a dual battery system. If there was a previous dual battery system then you could possibly upgrade that. If not then I would suggest you should start afresh installing your new dual battery system if the previous owner did not have one in it. If you do start afresh you will know the system.
You have found that there is a heavy lead going straight to the battery. What other leads go into it? If there are any then chase them to see where they go. If there are none then you have little to worry about phantom loads on the starter battery. If you have no use for the box then it could be removed.
Bill B said
10:05 AM May 13, 2017
Have you asked the vendor how it works/what it is ?
Franglen said
11:06 AM May 13, 2017
It is indeed an ex Telstra van guys. The Log book has the original sales docket in it.
Hi Bill B, Tried finding the website for the manufacturer but not much joy I'm afraid.
The people we bought the van off said they saww thee unit there but never tried to use it.
Will have a look tomorrow and see if I can find any other wires in the thing..
Gotta watch the spending as we've spent a fair bit on extras already and I might be living in this thing permanently according to the missus if you get my drift.
Thanks for all of the help every one.
Frank.
KFT said
11:25 AM May 13, 2017
I am thinking the two round connectors are "Merit" sockets for plugging merit plugs into
Frank
madaboutled said
05:44 PM May 13, 2017
KFT wrote:
I am thinking the two round connectors are "Merit" sockets for plugging merit plugs into
Frank
Merit sockets smaller than that, comparing the hole size to the fuses I think they more like standard Cig type sockets. Also, Merit sockets are ussually rated 10 to 15 amp and Cig sockets are up to 10amp.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Saturday 13th of May 2017 05:46:57 PM
Franglen said
06:24 PM May 13, 2017
I think KFT may be correct with 'Merit' sockets madaboutled. They are way too small to be standard Cigarette sockets.
My brotherinlaw said the Anderson plug is most probably for a second battery. And the On/Off switch may be a cut out so that the car can not be knocked off. I talked with the chap at AUTOPRO in Gatton who seems to know a bit about dual systems etc and this has got him bamboozled.
I might do what PeterD suggested and pull the box out and have a look behind it and see what gives. I need to be a lot smaller to get into the engine compartment in this thing to see where any other wires go.
If the Anderson plug Is indeed for a 2nd battery then I may just get a battery isolator so that I am not sucking the guts out of my main all of the time.
The unit came with a new ANNKE 8000mAh Battery jump Starter. But rather than take the chance of killing the main I'll try isolating the 2nd.
Does that make sense at all?
Just have to make sure the colours go in the right places. Seriously Colourblind which the wife reminds me of continuosly.
Thanks again for the assistance guys.
Frank
Jaahn said
08:31 AM May 14, 2017
Hi Frank
My suggestion is to use a VSR. Like this one or similar; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-140-Amp-VSR-Dual-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive-Relay-4x4-Camper-Camping-/252477455461?hash=item3ac8d43c65:g:3YAAAOSwXYtYx15B
I use a similar one in my bus. The second battery charges while you drive and then when the engine stops it isolates it. Easy as you can get. With that one shown you can also switch it to 'jump start' the main battery if needed (to save annoying the missus)
I also have a solar panel for when we do not start the engine. Pretty easy too. I suggest you keep the fuses and perhaps the sockets and plug and chuck the rest after a bit of rewiring. Get that 'no sense of humor missus' to check your wiring as you go.
Jaahn
Franglen said
04:00 PM May 14, 2017
Thanks Jaahn,
That's a good thought.
We Had a little Datsun 1000 years ago that burnt out the electrics under the bonnet. Couldn't afford a sparkie so I had the missus stand beside me while I rewired the the whole darned car. Must have been right because it ran for years after that.
Have a good one
Frank
Mike Harding said
05:11 PM May 14, 2017
>My suggestion is to use a VSR. Like this one or similar;
I suggest you ask them what its quiescent current is as it will be drawing power 24/7. It's probably quite low (it should be) but they don't publish it on eBay or in the manual.
Tony Bev said
11:01 PM May 15, 2017
Hello Franglen
I am not an Electrician
From what others above have said, your picture is something that was originally in the Telstra vans
Perhaps next time you see a Telstra van, somewhere on the side of the road, ask the driver what it is used for, (in his van)
What it is used for now, depends on exactly how it is wired up
Hopefully I have got the terminology correct in the picture below, if not, then hopefully someone will put us wise
Hi,
We are new at this and my wife and I just bought a 1999 Toyota Hiace Camper Van. It's basic but will suit our needs. Has anybody got any knowledge how this contraption below works. I know it's for a Dual Battery System. I've followed the leads and the Positive is connected to the Positive on the car battery. The On/Off switch has me beat, How does it work? Do I turn it....pull it....do my nut and hit it with a hammer? Will I be constantly draining from my main battery. We bought a secondary Heavy Duty battery to run lights as we don't have a fridge. We have a fold out awning with a LED light bar and don't want to drain the main battery. Missus is not to impressed about having to push start me if we go flat. No sense of humour. We bought an Anderson Plug and wire that the guy at REPCO recommended. So can set that up to the second battery. Any help on this thing appreciated.
The two pole grey/white item at the bottom left is an Anderson connector and is *probably* (check before plugging anything in to it!) for an external battery charger.
The switch works by inserting a 'T' handle with a sticky-out-bit (technical term) on the base into the switch and turning. The handle should be retained by the shiny spring clip in the centre... which it isn't :(
Of course that doesn't mean it isn't wired for something else.
Good Luck Rob.
Hi robol,
Here is a link to see what the handle look like for that switch.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAIR-12V-BATTERY-100AMP-CUT-OFF-KILL-ISOLATOR-SWITCH-SPARE-KEYS-CAR-BOAT-RALLY-/271465225479?hash=item3f34969d07:g:ezYAAOxylpNTWONH
You can see they are simple enough. You should be able to find them locally.
I hope the battery you bought as a second heavy duty house battery is deep cycle ?? If it is not a suitable type it may have a short life.
I cannot see what the two round "live" things are? power sockets for powering things ?
Jaahn
As said above, it looks like the camper was originally a Telstra service vehicle. That box would be a control box for their power needs and would most likely not have been a dual battery system. If there was a previous dual battery system then you could possibly upgrade that. If not then I would suggest you should start afresh installing your new dual battery system if the previous owner did not have one in it. If you do start afresh you will know the system.
You have found that there is a heavy lead going straight to the battery. What other leads go into it? If there are any then chase them to see where they go. If there are none then you have little to worry about phantom loads on the starter battery. If you have no use for the box then it could be removed.
It is indeed an ex Telstra van guys. The Log book has the original sales docket in it.
Hi Bill B, Tried finding the website for the manufacturer but not much joy I'm afraid.
The people we bought the van off said they saww thee unit there but never tried to use it.
Will have a look tomorrow and see if I can find any other wires in the thing..
Gotta watch the spending as we've spent a fair bit on extras already and I might be living in this thing permanently according to the missus if you get my drift.
Thanks for all of the help every one.
Frank.
Frank
Merit sockets smaller than that, comparing the hole size to the fuses I think they more like standard Cig type sockets. Also, Merit sockets are ussually rated 10 to 15 amp and Cig sockets are up to 10amp.
-- Edited by madaboutled on Saturday 13th of May 2017 05:46:57 PM
My brotherinlaw said the Anderson plug is most probably for a second battery. And the On/Off switch may be a cut out so that the car can not be knocked off. I talked with the chap at AUTOPRO in Gatton who seems to know a bit about dual systems etc and this has got him bamboozled.
I might do what PeterD suggested and pull the box out and have a look behind it and see what gives. I need to be a lot smaller to get into the engine compartment in this thing to see where any other wires go.
If the Anderson plug Is indeed for a 2nd battery then I may just get a battery isolator so that I am not sucking the guts out of my main all of the time.
The unit came with a new ANNKE 8000mAh Battery jump Starter. But rather than take the chance of killing the main I'll try isolating the 2nd.
Does that make sense at all?
Just have to make sure the colours go in the right places. Seriously Colourblind which the wife reminds me of continuosly.
Thanks again for the assistance guys.
Frank
Hi Frank
My suggestion is to use a VSR. Like this one or similar; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-140-Amp-VSR-Dual-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive-Relay-4x4-Camper-Camping-/252477455461?hash=item3ac8d43c65:g:3YAAAOSwXYtYx15B
I use a similar one in my bus. The second battery charges while you drive and then when the engine stops it isolates it. Easy as you can get. With that one shown you can also switch it to 'jump start' the main battery if needed (to save annoying the missus)
I also have a solar panel for when we do not start the engine. Pretty easy too. I suggest you keep the fuses and perhaps the sockets and plug and chuck the rest after a bit of rewiring.
Get that 'no sense of humor missus' to check your wiring as you go.
Jaahn
That's a good thought.
We Had a little Datsun 1000 years ago that burnt out the electrics under the bonnet. Couldn't afford a sparkie so I had the missus stand beside me while I rewired the the whole darned car. Must have been right because it ran for years after that.
Have a good one
Frank
>My suggestion is to use a VSR. Like this one or similar;
I suggest you ask them what its quiescent current is as it will be drawing power 24/7. It's probably quite low (it should be) but they don't publish it on eBay or in the manual.
Hello Franglen
I am not an Electrician
From what others above have said, your picture is something that was originally in the Telstra vans
Perhaps next time you see a Telstra van, somewhere on the side of the road, ask the driver what it is used for, (in his van)
What it is used for now, depends on exactly how it is wired up
Hopefully I have got the terminology correct in the picture below, if not, then hopefully someone will put us wise
Hope that the info is helpful to you