hi hope someone can help. I have a vitrifrigo dp150 fridge and not sure that is working correctly. Temp is ok but it's drawing 6-7 amps and cycles for about 9 minutes on and then 5 minutes off is that correct?
tks Ross
Yuglamron said
10:00 AM May 17, 2017
I can't help but I will be interested to hear any replies. I have the same fridge and it started doing the same but more frequently. Switched on for ten seconds then off then straight back on. Continuously cycling every few seconds.
It blew the $250 CTek Charger/Supply unit. I replaced that with a dedicated 240 Volt to 12 Volt power supply. Same problem so I bought a new thermostat at $97 Fitted that so it wasn't the thermostat.
It's in a MotorHome so will rip it out and get it checked. Looks like a Bugger of a job just to get it out.
So I will be interested to read any replies. Lots of Cluey Tech people around so they may help.
Don't want to buy a new one they are not cheap units to replace.
Aus-Kiwi said
11:11 AM May 17, 2017
I wander if condensation etc has got into circuitry ? Creating a high load ??
wasn_me said
01:32 PM May 17, 2017
Yuglamon, possibly you could have a auto reset circuit breaker doing its job. (Protecting the circuit ). If so you would have to find what's overloading the circuit.
Could even be a faulty breaker.
Cheers Pete
Wanda said
01:47 PM May 17, 2017
Hi Ross
We had, possibly the same model or very similar in our old Trakmaster for almost 10yrs before selling the Van
When working (not on start up), it would draw around the 4-5 amps consistently whether in hot or cold conditions.
Ours was getting quite old(12yrs) and feel it probably needed re-gasssing towards the end as it would cycle on for quite long periods depending on outside temps.
From memory I think, on for 15mins then off for only a few(2-3) minutes. In the hotter climates often would cycle even longer before cycling off, so there was something not right, we sold and upgraded problem went with the van. Like I said wored ok but probably needed to re gas.
I hope this helps Ross
regards
Ian(now have a 215lt Evakool...huge!)
AJC said
02:52 PM May 17, 2017
Hi Ross,
Both the current draw and cycle times seem about right. Around 7 Amps is typical for these compressors, and the cycle-time of about 15 minutes (one on-cycle to the next) seems ok too.
Cheers
AJC
-- Edited by AJC on Wednesday 17th of May 2017 03:02:35 PM
AJC said
03:11 PM May 17, 2017
Hi Yuglamron,
Now yours in an interesting one - so first some questions:
- how long had the fridge been working normally?
- have there been any wiring changes recently?
The reason I ask is that the fast on-off cycling you describe is typical of wiring that's too skinny, or due to loose connections (fuse, breaker, connector-block, plug, socket, etc). Blowing a charger also points to a loose connection that sparks through intermittently and causes this kind of damage.
Be interested to hear more details.
Cheers
AJC
Wanda said
03:11 PM May 17, 2017
Hi again Ross
The Vitrifrigo 150lt, is this the single door model with small freezer compartment inside the fridge!!(this is what our old one was)
Depending on how old yours is, but ours did not draw anywhere near 6-7amps, not even on start up from being turned off.
We had the Morningstar Prostar 30amp controller which monitored all electrics on the Van, I spent many hours looking at this monitor, while free camping, watching what power I was using, including solar coming in charging, and can definately verify our fridge, even as old as it was, was still working fine and only used between 4-5 amps. I still think yours is too high for the size of that fridge! The cycle times sound ok
my thoughts only
cheers
Ian
Ross638 said
04:38 PM May 17, 2017
Ok on the amps but mine cycles on for 10 min then off for 5 min didn't know if that was right?
msg said
04:52 PM May 17, 2017
Son has been looking at mine over the last few days. Mines only a 90ltr though. He suggested that the wiring (maybe needs heavier) or the distance from the batteries may the problem. Should only use 4amps. Will cycle on and off due to the thermostat switch on the cold plate. Apparently its very sensitive. My thought: maybe the seals on the door are not as good as they were and warm air seeps in.
AJC said
04:54 PM May 17, 2017
Hi Ross,
Yep, so on for about 2/3 of the time (in total), and off for 1/3 of the time, on average. At night the on-time should come down, I'd guess to half the time or less.
That's also why it's good to measure fridge consumption over a full 24 hour period, to get an average that includes both daytime and nighttime.
Cheers
AJC
-- Edited by AJC on Thursday 18th of May 2017 04:46:24 PM
Mike Harding said
05:32 PM May 17, 2017
> Temp is ok but it's drawing 6-7 amps and cycles for about 9 minutes on and then 5 minutes off is that correct?
Could be?
Out of 14 minutes it's on for 9 so:
24 hours / 14 = 1.7 * 9 = 15.4 on-time per day
15.4h * 6A = 92Ah per day
I have a 12V 60lt fridge/freezer - two separate compartments - which I run at +2C and -12C.
With an ambient of around 20C it uses about 28Ah and with an ambient of 33C it uses 50Ah per 24 hours.
Your fridge/freezer is 150lt with a 30lt freezer 2.5 times the size of mine... 92Ah does not seem unreasonable.
As others have suggested: door seals and low gas are possibles.
Give the suppliers a call.
PS. Run the freezer at -12C - that will keep food perfectly OK for at least three months.
Hylife said
09:32 PM May 17, 2017
Ross638 wrote:
hi hope someone can help. I have a vitrifrigo dp150 fridge and not sure that is working correctly. Temp is ok but it's drawing 6-7 amps and cycles for about 9 minutes on and then 5 minutes off is that correct?
tks Ross
Depends on what temp you have got it set for, and what is the ambient temp, and how often you open the door, and whether you keep it really full or half empty.
Set lower temp = more power used. Higher ambient = more power used Open the door more often = more power used Really full fridge = less power used.
On for 9 off for 5 = 64% cycle
6amps X 64% = 3.8 amps per hour
Night time power draws are completely different to daytime use due to lower ambient and not opening the door.
macka17 said
04:40 PM May 18, 2017
Don't know about all that tecnical stuff up above. But When I installed my first Waeco. Danfoss comp fridge in van. Higher I turned it. worst it worked.
Local fridge tech (Agent for Waeco and that swing comp unit). Said. Turn it down.
I went from 6-7 to 3-3.5. and it ran perfectly. on temp. till I sold van 8 or 9 yrs later.
Shrug. Try it.
PS.
I always run a separate Heavy wire under van.
From battery or fuses to fridge input point.
NO drop in voltages there.
They NEVER install heavy enough wiring for fridges on long runs.
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 18th of May 2017 04:43:21 PM
BAZZA44 said
04:58 PM May 18, 2017
Hi Ross, we have the same two door fridge and it uses about 6 - 7 amps on startup for a while and gradually uses less as it come down to temperature. Actually I did a test on ours a couple of weeks ago by setting the victron battery manager to show amps used over a 20 hr period and was pleased to see it was 72 amps = 3 . 6 amps per hr. So don't be too alarmed at seeing 7 amps for a while. But obviously if it does not reduce then something is not correct
We have ours set to have 4 degrees in fridge and minus 18 - 20 in freezer.
Do you have any sort of monitoring system that can show amps used.
hi hope someone can help. I have a vitrifrigo dp150 fridge and not sure that is working correctly. Temp is ok but it's drawing 6-7 amps and cycles for about 9 minutes on and then 5 minutes off is that correct?
tks Ross
I can't help but I will be interested to hear any replies. I have the same fridge and it started doing the same but more frequently. Switched on for ten seconds then off then straight back on. Continuously cycling every few seconds.
It blew the $250 CTek Charger/Supply unit. I replaced that with a dedicated 240 Volt to 12 Volt power supply. Same problem so I bought a new thermostat at $97 Fitted that so it wasn't the thermostat.
It's in a MotorHome so will rip it out and get it checked. Looks like a Bugger of a job just to get it out.
So I will be interested to read any replies. Lots of Cluey Tech people around so they may help.
Don't want to buy a new one they are not cheap units to replace.
We had, possibly the same model or very similar in our old Trakmaster for almost 10yrs before selling the Van
When working (not on start up), it would draw around the 4-5 amps consistently whether in hot or cold conditions.
Ours was getting quite old(12yrs) and feel it probably needed re-gasssing towards the end as it would cycle on for quite long periods depending on outside temps.
From memory I think, on for 15mins then off for only a few(2-3) minutes. In the hotter climates often would cycle even longer before cycling off, so there was something not right, we sold and upgraded problem went with the van. Like I said wored ok but probably needed to re gas.
I hope this helps Ross
regards
Ian(now have a 215lt Evakool...huge!)
Hi Ross,
Both the current draw and cycle times seem about right. Around 7 Amps is typical for these compressors, and the cycle-time of about 15 minutes (one on-cycle to the next) seems ok too.
Cheers
AJC
-- Edited by AJC on Wednesday 17th of May 2017 03:02:35 PM
Hi Yuglamron,
Now yours in an interesting one - so first some questions:
- how long had the fridge been working normally?
- have there been any wiring changes recently?
The reason I ask is that the fast on-off cycling you describe is typical of wiring that's too skinny, or due to loose connections (fuse, breaker, connector-block, plug, socket, etc). Blowing a charger also points to a loose connection that sparks through intermittently and causes this kind of damage.
Be interested to hear more details.
Cheers
AJC
The Vitrifrigo 150lt, is this the single door model with small freezer compartment inside the fridge!!(this is what our old one was)
Depending on how old yours is, but ours did not draw anywhere near 6-7amps, not even on start up from being turned off.
We had the Morningstar Prostar 30amp controller which monitored all electrics on the Van, I spent many hours looking at this monitor, while free camping, watching what power I was using, including solar coming in charging, and can definately verify our fridge, even as old as it was, was still working fine and only used between 4-5 amps. I still think yours is too high for the size of that fridge! The cycle times sound ok
my thoughts only
cheers
Ian
Ok on the amps but mine cycles on for 10 min then off for 5 min didn't know if that was right?
Hi Ross,
Yep, so on for about 2/3 of the time (in total), and off for 1/3 of the time, on average. At night the on-time should come down, I'd guess to half the time or less.
That's also why it's good to measure fridge consumption over a full 24 hour period, to get an average that includes both daytime and nighttime.
Cheers
AJC
-- Edited by AJC on Thursday 18th of May 2017 04:46:24 PM
> Temp is ok but it's drawing 6-7 amps and cycles for about 9 minutes on and then 5 minutes off is that correct?
Could be?
Out of 14 minutes it's on for 9 so:
24 hours / 14 = 1.7 * 9 = 15.4 on-time per day
15.4h * 6A = 92Ah per day
I have a 12V 60lt fridge/freezer - two separate compartments - which I run at +2C and -12C.
With an ambient of around 20C it uses about 28Ah and with an ambient of 33C it uses 50Ah per 24 hours.
Your fridge/freezer is 150lt with a 30lt freezer 2.5 times the size of mine... 92Ah does not seem unreasonable.
As others have suggested: door seals and low gas are possibles.
Give the suppliers a call.
PS. Run the freezer at -12C - that will keep food perfectly OK for at least three months.
Depends on what temp you have got it set for, and what is the ambient temp, and how often you open the door, and whether you keep it really full or half empty.
Set lower temp = more power used.
Higher ambient = more power used
Open the door more often = more power used
Really full fridge = less power used.
On for 9 off for 5 = 64% cycle
6amps X 64% = 3.8 amps per hour
Night time power draws are completely different to daytime use due to lower ambient and not opening the door.
Don't know about all that tecnical stuff up above.
But
When I installed my first Waeco. Danfoss comp fridge in van.
Higher I turned it. worst it worked.
Local fridge tech (Agent for Waeco and that swing comp unit).
Said. Turn it down.
I went from 6-7 to 3-3.5.
and it ran perfectly. on temp. till I sold van 8 or 9 yrs later.
Shrug. Try it.
PS.
I always run a separate Heavy wire under van.
From battery or fuses to fridge input point.
NO drop in voltages there.
They NEVER install heavy enough wiring for fridges on long runs.
-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday 18th of May 2017 04:43:21 PM
We have ours set to have 4 degrees in fridge and minus 18 - 20 in freezer.
Do you have any sort of monitoring system that can show amps used.
Barry