I have done a search and found some info but some also talked about too much pressure or not enough to fit a Pre-diesel filter (second filter). I have been reading about one advertised in the 'Grey Nomad Times'. Flash-Lube Diesel Filter and sounds like it is what I am talking about.
Has anyone got one and what do you think of them. If not what do you use etc. I use the Flash-Lube Diesel Additive about every 10,000km.
I have a 2014 RG Colorado Twin Cab Ute 2.8 Diesel.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there everyone.
iana said
05:14 PM Jun 5, 2017
I have fitted a pre filter to our ute, not the same brand (probably the same , re badged). Mainly for "water in the fuel" insurance. The issue as I understand it about the filters, is that when the motor is running, a percentage of fuel is used to cool the injectors. This fuel is returned to the tank, in my case also through a heat exchanger. When fitting an extra filter, this filter can restrict the fuel used for cooling, so one has to be careful what micron the filter is. Since I am mainly interested in water separation, and sighting contaminated fuel before damage occurs, I fitted a 30 micron pre-filter, with a clear bowl for visual checks. The post filter install is for extra filtration of the fuel after the factory filter, and would need to be if it is to do anything, be of a finer micron, and therefore could restrict the low pressure fuel pumps output and effect cooling.
CC Bear said
06:00 PM Jun 5, 2017
Hi Doug I just fitted a prefilter to the new tug was a Fuel Manager 100 series from Diesel Care Australia and every thing iana said is what I would say so saved a lot of typing.Will check again in the morning for you. Cheers
Moonraker said
08:37 PM Jun 5, 2017
I also confirm that diesel fuel is used to cool the injectors on modern diesel engines as stated by Iana. I havent fitted a second filter for this reason I dont want to restrict the fuel flow. There is an alarm should the OEM filter need replacing so IMO it is better to carry a few OEM filters and change if needed. Carrying 2 or 3 spare filters should allow you to get to a service station should you have a tank of contaminated fuel. I change the fuel filter on my tug every 15000kms and each time I have changed it I have noticed that it was still clean enough. I think you will find fuel is clean and free of water at the pump although I will not fill up if a tank is unloading fuel at the station unless I have no choice. More likely to get comtamination including water in fuel from a secondary source such as your jerry cans then I use a Funnelfilter to decant fuel into the tug.
Woody n Sue said
08:56 PM Jun 5, 2017
Hi Doug, I to have given this subject some thought, for a filter to be added and yet not restrict the flow, one should only need to fit one large enough that it has sufficient capacity to allow full flow without restricting the return flow even if it has a much finer filter size, therefore not causing a cooling of the injectors problem.
Another option although probably not as effective in protecting the fuel system in the first instance after filling up with fuel would be another filter on its own circuit with a simple electric fuel pump running all the time, or maybe a switch to turn it off after a suitable time after filling up each time .
The flash lube one you are looking at is a water filer at 30 micron so shouldn't cause a flow problem unless full of gunk.
No i don't have one fitted yet
Woody
macka17 said
12:14 AM Jun 6, 2017
I've tried a few filter systems.
Pre\After and in replacement of.
Unless You living touring in High humidity areas.
I reckon the original filter is fine.
As above. I carry coupla spares,
and every time the car serviced I change the filter too.
Extra $30 a pop ain't gonna kill you.
I reckon my spare 20 or 40 ltrs I carry in jerry cans when bush
is more important.
Radar said
05:04 AM Jun 6, 2017
Dougwe wrote:
How,
I have done a search and found some info but some also talked about too much pressure or not enough to fit a Pre-diesel filter (second filter). I have been reading about one advertised in the 'Grey Nomad Times'. Flash-Lube Diesel Filter and sounds like it is what I am talking about.
Has anyone got one and what do you think of them. If not what do you use etc. I use the Flash-Lube Diesel Additive about every 10,000km.
I have a 2014 RG Colorado Twin Cab Ute 2.8 Diesel.
--------------====================
Hi Dougwe
I was not going to make a reply on this subject as your post you asked has any one used this type of filter. A big no.
I found on my reseach a little bit of negative about using them on modern common rail diesel engines, my own service person said no as we change our diesel fuel filter at 10000ks and use high turn over of fuel styled servos makėng it very unlikely of having a fuel problem that the genuine diesel filter would not handle.
I do carry a spare diesel filter but shy of asking on my red thingy where the fuel filter is, my young nephew service person would never let me forget I needed to ask. "Oh Uncle Ralph, you drive it on the right side."
iana said
08:29 AM Jun 6, 2017
I know a fellow who about 12 months ago, hooked up his new van (1st trip) and headed north inland from Perth. I don't know where he refueled, but that was the end of his annual leave trip, over $2000 later, getting his Prado and van trucked back.
Contaminated fuel.
At my last work place we had two Rangers get water in the fuel here in Perth, replacement pump and work done to clean out the tank, not much change from $1800 each.
Your choice.
woolman said
12:10 PM Jun 6, 2017
One good quality fuel filter is all that is required. It will block with any contaminant and engine will not go.. I fail to see how a fuel system can be damaged if the correct fuel filter is installed. Just carry spare filters because one bad load of fuel will often take more than one filter change to get back to normal.
The worry is are you getting a good quality filter. The vehicle manufacturer will have a micron specification required so if you meet or finer all will be good. Filters are cheap in the scheme of things. Petrol filters generally are not fine enough for diesel engines.
Neil
Dougwe said
03:21 PM Jun 6, 2017
Thanks everyone for your input. I have taken on board all input with interest and will now sit back and take it all in for a final outcome, hopefully a good one.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there.
macka17 said
03:43 PM Jun 6, 2017
Unless an emergency.
I always plan to top up. ONLY at truck Stops when travelling.
and never fill anywhere, if delivery truck unloading diesel.
Neil.
Hence as I said. I carry a coupla spares.
In the last 35 yrs I've never had a fuel problem with filtration.
Injection and split pipes, Yes.
and around 28\9yrs ago coming South through Camoweal.
I picked up a bad load at the Ford servo.
Only one EVER.
Hylife said
03:00 PM Jun 7, 2017
Modern Toyota filters clean down to 3 microns and there are pressure sensors in the filter housing measuring the differential pressure between inlet and outlet which inform you on the dash if you need to change the filter.
Why waste money on a second or pre filter? Just buy reputable OEM filter cartridges in the first place, they only cost about $60 each and are designed to last up to 80,000km with a specified changeover at every 60,000km service.
The aftermarket industry has folks buying so much sh!t you don't need.
-- Edited by Hylife on Wednesday 7th of June 2017 03:01:30 PM
River Rat said
01:13 PM Jun 10, 2017
agree with Ian, a 30 micron pre-filter with glass bowl is a good idea
while I am yet to find any water in the bowl, for interest sake I cut open the last one I changed at 40,000km (normal use interval for my Navara)
In case Dougwe, has not taken action yet, this article in a caravan magazine caught my eye, and I thought it may be just what you're after. Its called "waterwatch" looks like it send a signal when water is detected. Go to www.waterindiesel.com, it maybe just what the doctor ordered.
Dougwe said
04:36 PM Jun 10, 2017
Nothing final yet Ian, thanks for the link.
ST391GQ said
04:45 PM Jun 10, 2017
I fitted a Lucas water trap filter to mine a long time ago. It is the type that has a clear bowl ...with a reasonably fine gauze strainer (about 70 micron I think)...and has a spinning type action as fuel moves through it. I also fitted an electric lift pump that flows fuel at 180 litres/hour at 4-6psi pressure...which does a great job at keeping positive flow at injector pump and keeping fuel cool. Only a handful of times I have had to empty a small amount of sludge out of drain tap on watertrap...mostly on the coast in smaller towns. This is done by turning the key on and having pump running while undoing trap tap...not letting any air in. I change my main fuel filter at 10000 km intervals....and have never had any crap of any sort come out of them..due mainly to having the water trap fitted. Plus the L/P makes bleeding a new filter soooo easy...lol.
Having seen first hand the damage water can do to a common rail engine....my thorts are that fitting a primary coarse water trap filter with either a glass or warning system is an absolute must ...and compared to the cost of repairs....damn cheap as well.
Cheers Keith
Aus-Kiwi said
05:33 PM Jun 10, 2017
I would consider a water seperator type if one is not fitted . A filter alone is not fail safe !!
Jaahn said
08:56 PM Jun 11, 2017
ST391GQ wrote:
I fitted a Lucas water trap filter to mine a long time ago. It is the type that has a clear bowl ...with a reasonably fine gauze strainer (about 70 micron I think)...and has a spinning type action as fuel moves through it. I also fitted an electric lift pump that flows fuel at 180 litres/hour at 4-6psi pressure...which does a great job at keeping positive flow at injector pump and keeping fuel cool. Only a handful of times I have had to empty a small amount of sludge out of drain tap on watertrap...mostly on the coast in smaller towns. This is done by turning the key on and having pump running while undoing trap tap...not letting any air in. I change my main fuel filter at 10000 km intervals....and have never had any crap of any sort come out of them..due mainly to having the water trap fitted. Plus the L/P makes bleeding a new filter soooo easy...lol.
Having seen first hand the damage water can do to a common rail engine....my thorts are that fitting a primary coarse water trap filter with either a glass or warning system is an absolute must ...and compared to the cost of repairs....damn cheap as well.
Cheers Keith
Hi
IMHO this is a good statement of what is required. I would do this if I had a new type of engine that is so sensitive to damage. I ordered optional water drain filter cartridges for my old motorhome. They have a water drain tap fitted. A glass bowl would be even better.
It is OK to say a good quality OEM filter will last 60-80000Kms but take my word for it that it will last 100 Kms or less after you buy a load of rubbish fuel with water and rust in it. It may protect the injection system or it may not !! Just the luck of the draw really. If you believe in other types of insurance then I would put this in the same category. Just in case !!
Twice in my years I have had to clean out a petrol tank in my cars when we received a bad load with water bought in the city. I would hate to see what problems a modern diesel would have given.
Jaahn
Pariss said
06:04 AM Jun 12, 2017
I have been using the Fuel Manager system with the 30 micron filter since 2014 in our 2014 Mazda BT50. It was recommended to me by a very good and very experienced diesel expert mechanic. Living and traveling in Tropical far nth Qld, where we get flooding wet seasons and high humidity this pre filter is a must have. The Flashlube filter replacement filters are a CAT Diesel product, top quality.
Dougwe said
10:01 AM Jun 12, 2017
Thanks everyone again for all your input.
I am now not sure what way to go really as I agree with both sides No use going to Holden to ask as I have lost all confidence in their "Technicians" and they will probably say they don't know anyway. You don't get to speak to a 'Mechanic' any more, you only get to speak to a service 'Advisor', everything is second hand info. I will look for a 'GOOD' diesel mechanic here in down town Townsville and get their thoughts. Anyone know one?
I haven't had any problem yet and hope not to, just a thought on my part.
The 'Flash-Lube' filter I read about in the latest edition of 'Grey Nomad Times' is a 30 micron and from what has been said so far should still be ok for the Injector's etc but I am still a little confused. Yeh I know, that's easy for me.
The other thing I have been thinking about doing is, the Collie gets a book service every 15,000km but now out of warranty so thinking of maybe every 10,000km and change the fuel filter each time, currently it gets changed every 30,000km (every second service).
Thinking, thinking, thinking.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:22 AM Jun 12, 2017
Lol . Like everything . It's ok till things go wrong. Often more than one thing . Often two or three things stuff up or cause mager issues !! We are pushing some power through turbo diesels these days . Making similar or more power than engines more than twice their size . Example my 6.5 turbo diesel Chev has 200 hp and around 480 torque . A 3 litre single rail can make that easy now !! Just durability if things go west !!
JackoFJR said
11:44 AM Jun 12, 2017
I have a prefilter under the tray of my Dmax , do I really need it who knows , I hope not but it's there anyway .
Google Baileys Diesel Service and Berrima Diesel , lots of info on extra filters there , also many others , YouTube have a lot of info about extra filters for CR-Diesel Motors , it might help you decide what to do .
deverall11 said
04:04 PM Jun 12, 2017
Dougwe wrote:
How,
....... I use the Flash-Lube Diesel Additive about every 10,000km.
I have a 2014 RG Colorado Twin Cab Ute 2.8 Diesel.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there everyone.
Hi Chief,
No comments on second fuel filter, however, I always use BP, Caltex or Shell. Never an independent. Nothing against them but fuel can be questionable at times. If a refuelling truck is in the servo, ask if dumping diesel. Always carry a spare fuel filter.
Use mineral two stroke oil instead of Flashlube. ration 200:1. That works out to about 240mls per 120l of fuel.
Good luck
OutbackMK said
09:15 PM Jun 12, 2017
This thread moves ever onwards.. I have a 13um filter in an FM100 unit before factory filter. If you give the tug a shake everytime you fill-up you can spot any water in the sight glass. (a cut-away photo posted in this thread shows the amount of grunge caught that would have wiped out my factory filter real fast)
If there's water in the fuel you have about a 50-100ml buffer in the pre-filter, my main filter is nominal 5um and has a water sensor as standard so it is the last line of defence.
Each fill I add about 100ml of DieselPower or Fuel Doctor additive, both are reputed to stop the growth of algae in the fuel system as well as providing some improved lubrication to the fuel pumps and injectors.
Two stoke oil does reduce injector noise however it has no benefit as an algaecide or cetane level (like octane rating in petrol) improver.
As you now have a common rail diesel a simple pre-filter may extend the life of your pump and injectors (at least $10k worth of parts) so the pre-filter would be a good investment.
Companies supply DIY kits that you can install in about 30 minutes that are manufactured for your vehicle.
Jaahn said
09:09 AM Jun 13, 2017
Hi
Back in the '80s I worked in PNG and the vehicles were all diesel Japanese light trucks. The same brands as today. EVERY ONE of them had a dual filter system with a water seperator and water sensor with a light on the dash. The dual filter system may have been two units or a dual purpose one piece unit. Most of the fuel was out of '44 gal' drums which can get water into them if not resealed properly as the water sits on the top in the rim when it rains as it does up there.
All the diesels I worked on after that, trucks, tractors and agriculture equipment in Australia had dual filters and often glass bowl seperators. Seemed just sensible to me. Easy to check for problems. Now my point is this, if it was good enough for the old days when the diesels were low tech mechanical injection systems, why have they dropped the standard of filtration steps. Just saving a buck to get the truck out to the customer. Then the 'insurance' liability for problems passes to them !!!
You make your own luck by making good decisions !!
Good luck Jaahn
River Rat said
06:51 PM Jun 13, 2017
Yep, back in the 70's when I was farming the tractors had a twin CAV setup with glass bowl on the primary, we used to swap the secondary to the primary and put a new one on the secondary, regular changes and draining of any water in the bowl ensured that the secondary was always like new when we changed them..........and that was on the old relatively low pressure mechanical injection, much more important these days with CRD
-- Edited by River Rat on Tuesday 13th of June 2017 06:52:25 PM
How,
I have done a search and found some info but some also talked about too much pressure or not enough to fit a Pre-diesel filter (second filter). I have been reading about one advertised in the 'Grey Nomad Times'. Flash-Lube Diesel Filter and sounds like it is what I am talking about.
Has anyone got one and what do you think of them. If not what do you use etc. I use the Flash-Lube Diesel Additive about every 10,000km.
I have a 2014 RG Colorado Twin Cab Ute 2.8 Diesel.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there everyone.
Another option although probably not as effective in protecting the fuel system in the first instance after filling up with fuel would be another filter on its own circuit with a simple electric fuel pump running all the time, or maybe a switch to turn it off after a suitable time after filling up each time .
The flash lube one you are looking at is a water filer at 30 micron so shouldn't cause a flow problem unless full of gunk.
No i don't have one fitted yet
Woody
Pre\After and in replacement of.
Unless You living touring in High humidity areas.
I reckon the original filter is fine.
As above. I carry coupla spares,
and every time the car serviced I change the filter too.
Extra $30 a pop ain't gonna kill you.
I reckon my spare 20 or 40 ltrs I carry in jerry cans when bush
is more important.
Contaminated fuel.
At my last work place we had two Rangers get water in the fuel here in Perth, replacement pump and work done to clean out the tank, not much change from $1800 each.
Your choice.
One good quality fuel filter is all that is required. It will block with any contaminant and engine will not go.. I fail to see how a fuel system can be damaged if the correct fuel filter is installed. Just carry spare filters because one bad load of fuel will often take more than one filter change to get back to normal.
The worry is are you getting a good quality filter. The vehicle manufacturer will have a micron specification required so if you meet or finer all will be good. Filters are cheap in the scheme of things. Petrol filters generally are not fine enough for diesel engines.
Neil
Keep Safe on the roads and out there.
I always plan to top up. ONLY at truck Stops when travelling.
and never fill anywhere, if delivery truck unloading diesel.
Neil.
Hence as I said. I carry a coupla spares.
In the last 35 yrs I've never had a fuel problem with filtration.
Injection and split pipes, Yes.
and around 28\9yrs ago coming South through Camoweal.
I picked up a bad load at the Ford servo.
Only one EVER.
Modern Toyota filters clean down to 3 microns and there are pressure sensors in the filter housing measuring the differential pressure between inlet and outlet which inform you on the dash if you need to change the filter.
Why waste money on a second or pre filter?
Just buy reputable OEM filter cartridges in the first place, they only cost about $60 each and are designed to last up to 80,000km with a specified changeover at every 60,000km service.
The aftermarket industry has folks buying so much sh!t you don't need.
-- Edited by Hylife on Wednesday 7th of June 2017 03:01:30 PM
agree with Ian, a 30 micron pre-filter with glass bowl is a good idea
while I am yet to find any water in the bowl, for interest sake I cut open the last one I changed at 40,000km (normal use interval for my Navara)
I fitted a Lucas water trap filter to mine a long time ago. It is the type that has a clear bowl ...with a reasonably fine gauze strainer (about 70 micron I think)...and has a spinning type action as fuel moves through it. I also fitted an electric lift pump that flows fuel at 180 litres/hour at 4-6psi pressure...which does a great job at keeping positive flow at injector pump and keeping fuel cool. Only a handful of times I have had to empty a small amount of sludge out of drain tap on watertrap...mostly on the coast in smaller towns. This is done by turning the key on and having pump running while undoing trap tap...not letting any air in. I change my main fuel filter at 10000 km intervals....and have never had any crap of any sort come out of them..due mainly to having the water trap fitted. Plus the L/P makes bleeding a new filter soooo easy...lol.
Having seen first hand the damage water can do to a common rail engine....my thorts are that fitting a primary coarse water trap filter with either a glass or warning system is an absolute must ...and compared to the cost of repairs....damn cheap as well.
Cheers Keith
Hi
IMHO this is a good statement of what is required. I would do this if I had a new type of engine that is so sensitive to damage. I ordered optional water drain filter cartridges for my old motorhome. They have a water drain tap fitted. A glass bowl would be even better.
It is OK to say a good quality OEM filter will last 60-80000Kms but take my word for it that it will last 100 Kms or less after you buy a load of rubbish fuel with water and rust in it. It may protect the injection system or it may not !! Just the luck of the draw really. If you believe in other types of insurance then I would put this in the same category. Just in case !!
Twice in my years I have had to clean out a petrol tank in my cars when we received a bad load with water bought in the city. I would hate to see what problems a modern diesel would have given.
Jaahn
Thanks everyone again for all your input.
I am now not sure what way to go really
as I agree with both sides 
No use going to Holden to ask 
as I have lost all confidence in their "Technicians" and they will probably say they don't know anyway. You don't get to speak to a 'Mechanic' any more, you only get to speak to a service 'Advisor', everything is second hand info. I will look for a 'GOOD' diesel mechanic here in down town Townsville and get their thoughts. Anyone know one?
I haven't had any problem yet and hope not to, just a thought on my part.
The 'Flash-Lube' filter I read about in the latest edition of 'Grey Nomad Times' is a 30 micron and from what has been said so far should still be ok for the Injector's etc but I am still a little confused. Yeh I know, that's easy for me.
The other thing I have been thinking about doing is, the Collie gets a book service every 15,000km but now out of warranty so thinking of maybe every 10,000km and change the fuel filter each time, currently it gets changed every 30,000km (every second service).
Thinking, thinking, thinking.
Google Baileys Diesel Service and Berrima Diesel , lots of info on extra filters there , also many others , YouTube have a lot of info about extra filters for CR-Diesel Motors , it might help you decide what to do .
Hi Chief,
No comments on second fuel filter, however, I always use BP, Caltex or Shell. Never an independent. Nothing against them but fuel can be questionable at times. If a refuelling truck is in the servo, ask if dumping diesel. Always carry a spare fuel filter.
Use mineral two stroke oil instead of Flashlube. ration 200:1. That works out to about 240mls per 120l of fuel.
Good luck
If there's water in the fuel you have about a 50-100ml buffer in the pre-filter, my main filter is nominal 5um and has a water sensor as standard so it is the last line of defence.
Each fill I add about 100ml of DieselPower or Fuel Doctor additive, both are reputed to stop the growth of algae in the fuel system as well as providing some improved lubrication to the fuel pumps and injectors.
Two stoke oil does reduce injector noise however it has no benefit as an algaecide or cetane level (like octane rating in petrol) improver.
As you now have a common rail diesel a simple pre-filter may extend the life of your pump and injectors (at least $10k worth of parts) so the pre-filter would be a good investment.
Companies supply DIY kits that you can install in about 30 minutes that are manufactured for your vehicle.
Hi
Back in the '80s I worked in PNG and the vehicles were all diesel Japanese light trucks. The same brands as today. EVERY ONE of them had a dual filter system with a water seperator and water sensor with a light on the dash. The dual filter system may have been two units or a dual purpose one piece unit. Most of the fuel was out of '44 gal' drums which can get water into them if not resealed properly as the water sits on the top in the rim when it rains
as it does up there.
All the diesels I worked on after that, trucks, tractors and agriculture equipment in Australia had dual filters and often glass bowl seperators. Seemed just sensible to me. Easy to check for problems. Now my point is this, if it was good enough for the old days when the diesels were low tech mechanical injection systems, why have they dropped the standard of filtration steps. Just saving a buck to get the truck out to the customer. Then the 'insurance' liability for problems passes to them !!!
You make your own luck by making good decisions !!
Good luck Jaahn
Yep, back in the 70's when I was farming the tractors had a twin CAV setup with glass bowl on the primary, we used to swap the secondary to the primary and put a new one on the secondary, regular changes and draining of any water in the bowl ensured that the secondary was always like new when we changed them..........and that was on the old relatively low pressure mechanical injection, much more important these days with CRD
-- Edited by River Rat on Tuesday 13th of June 2017 06:52:25 PM