BEWARE ---- SOLDERED JOINTS - THIS TIME ON ANDERSON PLUG & CHINESE WIRE ON SOLAR PANELS
Baz421 said
09:45 PM Jul 16, 2017
Had an Anderson plug on solar panels on ute to battery.
Had a problem - check voltage looked OK, plus open circuit voltage good battery but not charging.
Checked wiring - + wire at Anderson lug broke at the soldered joint. Seems it registered the voltage but wouldn't let current through resistance.
I had to replace the PWC solar controller so bought a good 20A MPPT controller.
Stripped wire on solar panel + wire all corroded and powdery (like talcum powder) so went back along wire. Found a factory joint in wire joined by twisting only and with a plastic around joint (no insulation). Replaced wire with good quality wire.
Wired up still no charging (no charge light) checked wires correctly wired. Went back to MPPT supplier, wired correctly, tried a portable panel, worked OK.
Problem - wire used for about 6 years open circuit - Chinese wire it seems from panel I used originally.
So beware these two things (soldered joint common problem) but wire quality. Watch for wire with fine strands with what looks like talcum powder between strands.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:51 PM Jul 16, 2017
Was it copper or alloy ? ALU will do that !!
Baz421 said
09:52 PM Jul 16, 2017
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
Was it copper or alloy ? ALU will do that !!
Very fine copper strands BUT they were not nice copper colour
Radar said
11:44 PM Jul 16, 2017
Our 4 ryear old caravan had sililar problem, the anderson plug power to the frig was failing traced the problem to the cheap wire used, how annoying.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:59 AM Jul 17, 2017
I bet not much copper in wire ? Just enough to make solder stick ? The white stuff is what happens when Alu and copper are mixed . Add water and they corode big time . Tinned copper to Alu with Elect jointing compound ( graphite grease) to keep water out and better Elect joint . But crap wire !! There's no way around it . Boats etc even have to use tinned copper ( silver colour) to prevent salt corrosion . I tin, crimp and solder . To be sure !!
Cruising Cruze said
08:01 PM Jul 17, 2017
Hi guys
And I always tough that an soldered wire is way better than an crimped one
So far I never had a problem with an soldered joint but I did in the past have with crimped one's
Cheers John
markf said
12:08 AM Jul 18, 2017
In applications where there is likely to be vibration crimping is the way to go. Much more reliable and robust. Boeing and Airbus looms are all crimped. Of course the crimping needs to be done properly - see http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-A-Quality-Crimped-Joint/
When soldering you may be heat treating the wire to the point of fatigue intolerance as well as introducing other metals and chemicals (flux) into the joint.
-- Edited by markf on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 12:15:51 AM
Jaahn said
09:03 AM Jul 18, 2017
Hi
Crap wire !!! If you want tinned copper wire for any application then go to your local boat supplier. Easy to solder and crimps well too. They usually use tinned wire in boats as it is much better in a corrosive marine environment. Boats use the same items as you do in your caravan.
Jaahn
patrol03 said
03:50 PM Jul 18, 2017
Solder joints are not made in the motor trade for various reasons including time and long term efficiency. Crimping is the preferred method. How many soldered joints do you find in a wiring harness in both old model and current vehicles. A properly crimped terminal will see most of us posters out. Some people are completely delusional when it comes to wiring application.
-- Edited by patrol03 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 03:52:55 PM
Aus-Kiwi said
09:07 PM Jul 18, 2017
Depends on crimps .. We use crimps in over head and substations . The thickness of crimp before crimped is up to 10mm thick .. The cheap speaker type ?. Sheesh crimp and solder !! Car Manu ?? It's all bought money and fast assembly .. One thing that helps with vibration is to have cables saddled, supported ..
markf said
09:43 PM Jul 18, 2017
patrol03 wrote:
A properly crimped terminal will see most of us posters out.
-- Edited by patrol03 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 03:52:55 PM
Absolutely. With the emphasis on "properly".
macka17 said
11:27 AM Jul 19, 2017
Any wiring I use or change out.
I go to L&Hansen.
they sell the 2 sizes of Solar wire in rolls, by the mtr.
Normally buy the lighter one. which is several times (multi strand)
bigger in Dia.
than the stuff we normally use.
The Heavy grade for panels and fridge in van.
As said. Tin first.
Insert in Anderson. Crimp with H\Duty.
OR nip round to sparky and use his Hydraulic one
$5 a pop.
Soldering then crimp. Negates the crimp.
Set solder is pretty hard to squeeze I found.
I tend to Crimp all heavy gear. Solder all small\light gear.
Torches,lights etc.
Then shrink Wrap over all of them.
The lined version (Marine) is 99.9% waterproof.
Everybody has their own way of doing it.
The After job seal is one of the most important bits.
No matter HOW good you do it.
Open to wet and weather.
Is asking for a short shelf life on anything electrical.
Had an Anderson plug on solar panels on ute to battery.
Had a problem - check voltage looked OK, plus open circuit voltage good battery but not charging.
Checked wiring - + wire at Anderson lug broke at the soldered joint. Seems it registered the voltage but wouldn't let current through resistance.
I had to replace the PWC solar controller so bought a good 20A MPPT controller.
Stripped wire on solar panel + wire all corroded and powdery (like talcum powder) so went back along wire. Found a factory joint in wire joined by twisting only and with a plastic around joint (no insulation). Replaced wire with good quality wire.
Wired up still no charging (no charge light) checked wires correctly wired. Went back to MPPT supplier, wired correctly, tried a portable panel, worked OK.
Problem - wire used for about 6 years open circuit - Chinese wire it seems from panel I used originally.
So beware these two things (soldered joint common problem) but wire quality. Watch for wire with fine strands with what looks like talcum powder between strands.
Very fine copper strands BUT they were not nice copper colour
Our 4 ryear old caravan had sililar problem, the anderson plug power to the frig was failing traced the problem to the cheap wire used, how annoying.
And I always tough that an soldered wire is way better than an crimped one
So far I never had a problem with an soldered joint but I did in the past have with crimped one's
Cheers John
In applications where there is likely to be vibration crimping is the way to go. Much more reliable and robust. Boeing and Airbus looms are all crimped. Of course the crimping needs to be done properly - see http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-A-Quality-Crimped-Joint/
When soldering you may be heat treating the wire to the point of fatigue intolerance as well as introducing other metals and chemicals (flux) into the joint.
-- Edited by markf on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 12:15:51 AM
Hi
Crap wire !!! If you want tinned copper wire for any application then go to your local boat supplier. Easy to solder and crimps well too. They usually use tinned wire in boats as it is much better in a corrosive marine environment. Boats use the same items as you do in your caravan.
Jaahn
Solder joints are not made in the motor trade for various reasons including time and long term efficiency. Crimping is the preferred method. How many soldered joints do you find in a wiring harness in both old model and current vehicles. A properly crimped terminal will see most of us posters out. Some people are completely delusional when it comes to wiring application.
-- Edited by patrol03 on Tuesday 18th of July 2017 03:52:55 PM
Absolutely. With the emphasis on "properly".
I go to L&Hansen.
they sell the 2 sizes of Solar wire in rolls, by the mtr.
Normally buy the lighter one. which is several times (multi strand)
bigger in Dia.
than the stuff we normally use.
The Heavy grade for panels and fridge in van.
As said. Tin first.
Insert in Anderson. Crimp with H\Duty.
OR nip round to sparky and use his Hydraulic one
$5 a pop.
Soldering then crimp. Negates the crimp.
Set solder is pretty hard to squeeze I found.
I tend to Crimp all heavy gear. Solder all small\light gear.
Torches,lights etc.
Then shrink Wrap over all of them.
The lined version (Marine) is 99.9% waterproof.
Everybody has their own way of doing it.
The After job seal is one of the most important bits.
No matter HOW good you do it.
Open to wet and weather.
Is asking for a short shelf life on anything electrical.
Seal it well.