Hi this is my first timeon this site. Can someone please help me work out this problem. I have a 2012 Franklin 19 foot van with a microwave that draws 1250 amps, I am trying to run it off my Yamaha inverter 2kva 1600 amps continuous or a 2000 watt pure sine inverter again 1600 watts continuous. . When I plug either power source into the van input via a new heavy duty lead it will only run for about 5 seconds before cutting out. I have tried 2 different leads However if I connect it via lead direct to microwave it runs on both power sources. Any advice will be appreciated.
Aus-Kiwi said
02:23 PM Aug 25, 2017
Getting watts and volts mixed up .
Armo said
02:25 PM Aug 25, 2017
Sorry watts in all cases
PeterD said
02:34 PM Aug 25, 2017
Armo wrote:
I have a 2012 Franklin 19 foot van with a microwave that draws 1250 amps,
Is that the cooking power or the input power. If it is the cooking power you have not taken the efficiency of the equipment. The magnetron in the oven is only 60% efficient at the best so the unit will draw more than 1250 when running.
dragonfly1 said
02:34 PM Aug 25, 2017
Your hot water service is probably switched on and your battery charger they won't run everything at once one at a time
Dragonfly1
Armo said
02:50 PM Aug 25, 2017
Thanks for your thoughts I have been chasing this for a while and eliminated hopefully most things. Firstly the microwave is a 800 watt, input is 1250 according to the manual and an in line watt meter. Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger. This is confirmed when I start the generator and set econo it runs at idle ie no load has been put on it , however when I turn any appliance on eg toaster microwave it goes to full revs indicating prior to turning on these appliances there had been no draw from the generator. I was a auto mechanic and auto elect for 40 years but this one has me baffled. A good friend of mine who is a electrician says it cant be but it is happening. I have by passed the vans input circuits for the microwave and connected it direct and all is well but I would love to know where its going wrong in the vans wiring system. Thanks
Armo said
02:58 PM Aug 25, 2017
One other question does tow bar ball weight lessen when you attach a load leveling hitch. Thank you
Armo said
03:08 PM Aug 25, 2017
Back to the microwave problem is it posdible the van wiring is on its limits that is ok for shore power but to much resistance due to small wire size to handle my power sources that have only just enough power?
PeterD said
03:42 PM Aug 25, 2017
Armo wrote:
One other question does tow bar ball weight lessen when you attach a load leveling hitch. Thank you
No, the only way you can lessen the bal weight is to redistribute the load in the van. The reason the rear of the tug rises when you put the bars on is because they transfer some of the weigh that was originally on the rear axle to the front axle of the tug and the vans axles. That's why the correct name for the hitch is a WDH (weight distribution hitch.) The following is an actual demonstration done at the Melbourne caravan show by HR. In each case add the weights of the two van axles and see how the WDH redistributes the ball load.
Back to the microwave problem is it posdible the van wiring is on its limits that is ok for shore power but to much resistance due to small wire size to handle my power sources that have only just enough power?
If the wiring in the van is at fault then I suggest that it requires attention or replacement. One check you can do is to see if the inlet socket heats up just before the microwave ceases working
Barboots said
04:38 PM Aug 25, 2017
Disregard
-- Edited by Barboots on Friday 25th of August 2017 04:40:43 PM
KFT said
05:09 PM Aug 25, 2017
G'day,
from my own experience the issue with your M/wave not working on the genny is due to the eco throttle being active. If you switch this off the oven should work fine.
I am sure it is to do with the lag time from the load coming on and the genny matching the load.
mine works fine on my Eu20i if I disable the eco while we use the oven.
Frank
PeterInSa said
05:15 PM Aug 25, 2017
Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)
I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.
Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.
Peter
Aus-Kiwi said
06:28 PM Aug 25, 2017
Yes I would say combo of economy mode and start up current draw from m/wave ?
Peter_n_Margaret said
10:56 AM Aug 26, 2017
Engage the services of a qualified electrician before you burn the van to the ground, or worse.
Cheers,
Peter
Armo said
11:05 AM Aug 26, 2017
All fixed. I replaced the input plug. Thanks for all the suggestions
Possum3 said
02:29 PM Aug 26, 2017
PeterInSa wrote:
Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)
I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.
Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.
Re (Every thing is switched off hot water, fridge, battery charger.)
I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.
Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.
Hi this is my first timeon this site. Can someone please help me work out this problem. I have a 2012 Franklin 19 foot van with a microwave that draws 1250 amps, I am trying to run it off my Yamaha inverter 2kva 1600 amps continuous or a 2000 watt pure sine inverter again 1600 watts continuous. . When I plug either power source into the van input via a new heavy duty lead it will only run for about 5 seconds before cutting out. I have tried 2 different leads However if I connect it via lead direct to microwave it runs on both power sources. Any advice will be appreciated.
Is that the cooking power or the input power. If it is the cooking power you have not taken the efficiency of the equipment. The magnetron in the oven is only 60% efficient at the best so the unit will draw more than 1250 when running.
Your hot water service is probably switched on and your battery charger they won't run everything at once one at a time
Dragonfly1
No, the only way you can lessen the bal weight is to redistribute the load in the van. The reason the rear of the tug rises when you put the bars on is because they transfer some of the weigh that was originally on the rear axle to the front axle of the tug and the vans axles. That's why the correct name for the hitch is a WDH (weight distribution hitch.) The following is an actual demonstration done at the Melbourne caravan show by HR. In each case add the weights of the two van axles and see how the WDH redistributes the ball load.
If the wiring in the van is at fault then I suggest that it requires attention or replacement. One check you can do is to see if the inlet socket heats up just before the microwave ceases working
Disregard
-- Edited by Barboots on Friday 25th of August 2017 04:40:43 PM
from my own experience the issue with your M/wave not working on the genny is due to the eco throttle being active. If you switch this off the oven should work fine.
I am sure it is to do with the lag time from the load coming on and the genny matching the load.
mine works fine on my Eu20i if I disable the eco while we use the oven.
Frank
I would also pull the plugs out of their sockets especially the Hot water system, just in case a switch is faulty.
Do you have an earth leakage switch, (not sure if that's the correct term) if not you suggest you have one installed, it may show up an appliance/cabling/switch fault.
Peter
Cheers,
Peter
Peter I think you are referring to an RCD (Residual Current Device). Cheap on E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Powertech-15A-to-10A-Converter-Adapter-RCD-suits-Caravan-15-Amp-to-10-Amp-/171452731309?epid=1038012385&hash=item27eb610fad:g:TBYAAOSwCQZZLzWA
Perhaps you should also check polarity on GPO's cheap tester from E Bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABAC-Power-Point-GPO-Tester-AC-230V-Safety-Polarity-Earth-Leakage-RCD-TEL1TLV2/262226188620?epid=5003305779&hash=item3d0de6194c%3Ag%3AE4IAAOSwGtRX0itv
A RCD is not functional with a plugged in generator
A RVD gives full protection from shocks to earth