The power Supply in my 20 YO Westport has finally carked it.
On our last trip the LED lights seemed a bit dull & when I turned on the parallel incandescent ones they really went dull. Some wouldn't even switch on. So I deduced that I had no 12v output from the Power supply. Elec tests confirmed this and the battery was certainly about flat. It's an old battery too.
We don't free camp so I don't watch the battery condition as I don't have a monitoring system permanently connected. I leave it on float when at home. Examination of the power supply revealed several components with corroded legs & one or two completely broken. It has suffered from moisture damage perhaps over many years .. who knows. To repair it would be a couple of days work & then I would probably not have a reliable PS anyway.
So ..
I am in the process of replacing it. (And putting in a basic monitoring system as well as water proofing & ventilating the PS enclosure)
It seems that the recommended replacement is a Setec ST35-111. That's the one that Jayco stock as a replacement for $677.60.
I can get one from a local RV parts supplier for $495 over the counter, which seems OK to me.
My question is ... Does anybody know of an alternative or a better (delivered) price?
... and ideas on a simple monitoring system?
ps .. Jayco recommend a PS with a 35A capacity for my size van ... like the orig one was. The original PS make is discontinued.
-- Edited by Cupie on Sunday 8th of October 2017 09:41:51 PM
macka17 said
10:41 PM Oct 8, 2017
That sort of money.
Buy one or a coupla 130w Panels and Regulator.
With an AC 20a Smart battery charger.
Elect drill pop rivetter. U Tube, and ebay.
You'll have a free running\Independant. 12v system.
with Smart. Ac charging for when on mains.
Half a days work after you set up panels for mounting. (Ally angle 2inch x 8inch strips)
Hire (Broons?)
2 x 9ft trestles plus 1 or 2 same in planks.
Set up alongside van on level and go for it.
DON'T go the old "fall off" single ladder trick leaning on side of van.
NO WAY.
Leads to neck brace. walking frame. Quadriplegic, etc.
For the sake of $50 hire.
It has 2 x 75 AH batteries to look after, hasn't missed a beat, easy to install, very happy with the result and only $250.
-- Edited by Santa on Monday 9th of October 2017 08:38:39 AM
iana said
09:15 AM Oct 9, 2017
Cupie, I take it that when the failed power supply is removed, you are going to be left with a big hole in the paneling, and the replacement power supply will fit into this hole, the wiring will also fit with no modifications. I have the ST35-111, came with the van and have no problems so far, Jayco are now installing a completely different system in their new vans, but I can't give you details.
If however the existing power supply is not an earlier one of that type, and for instance is mounted in the boot etc. then a range of possibilities open up. It would pay you to invest in new 12v batteries as well. I would also look at a DC-Dc charger mounted near the van batteries, using the feed from the vehicle to charge while driving. As above, ctek have a range of units to do this.
Enquire about the new system now being installed in the Jayco vans, it is completely different to the previous units, and very neat.
WAssa41 said
09:23 AM Oct 9, 2017
Some van manufactures do not have a 240v to 12v power supply. They install a battery and a good battery charger which does that same thing.
Warren
Yuglamron said
10:23 AM Oct 9, 2017
My Fridge is 12 Volt only and was run on a CTek 240 Volt to 12 Volt Charger .The type designed to be used as a 24/7 power supply. Packed up and my local Auto electrician told me to buy one of these for $60
Been running for two years now, the CTek cost around the $250 mark. It had lasted about two years.
I was told by the electrician a very well known Australian company source these and put on their own labels and sell for $190. Can't verify but when I looked at both they certainly looked identical and the copper windings inside looked to be the same gauge.
PeterD said
10:29 AM Oct 9, 2017
As the Setec power supplies are not much of a charger I would recommend doing what the majority of manufacturers do. Just fit a good charger battery and a power box/fuse distribution box. With the money saved from the extortionate price of the Setec you should also then have the money for a good SOC monitor.
Cupie said
10:46 AM Oct 9, 2017
Thanks all. The very good replies have me thinking in a new direction.
I am aware of the new hi tech Setec system that Jcar are using, though I haven't investigated it. Before making a final decision I will price it & look at the physical installation aspect.
I like the idea of putting in one or two Ctek units (they can be installed with 2 or more to increase the charge rate). Perhaps just one & add another if not coping. The only downside of doing that is that when the battery carks I am stuffed, as different to the Power Supply approach which works with or without a battery.
The hole in the wall is not an issue as I can make a metal cover to mount the new device on or perhaps just use the old face to open and give access to the new stuff mounted in the old case. I can even use the old load distribution fuse assembly.
I do need a new battery & intend getting one irrespective of what I decide.
My current 'from vehicle' charging is via a dedicated accessory relay but I intend perhaps one day moving to a van mounted DC/DC charger that has solar input capability. It was our intention to try free camping with the low cost option, before moving to Solar in the unlikely event that it suits SWMBO. I'll need to examine the solar option in more detail particularly the associated overall costs. I'll use the trestle & plank approach if I go that way. My son has a good set. My neighbour has an old hardwood set but they are far too heavy & difficult to manoeuvre for an old fart like me.
We don't intend using the van for a few months so I have plenty of time to explore options and consult with my expert friend who does all my electronics stuff while I steadily regress to an out of date techno dumbo.
Once again thank you all for your excellent opinions.
Edit .. Two more great inputs while I was typing the above. I'll certainly look at the smart charger options (any recommendations on that & the SOC device pls?).
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 9th of October 2017 10:51:00 AM
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 9th of October 2017 11:25:51 AM
wasn_me said
11:08 AM Oct 9, 2017
Hi Cupie.
Check my recent post in "show us your rig". I had a problem with the power supply. I removed it & replaced as per some of the above advise.
I only fitted the guages cause I could, They'ye not a necessity.
I'm only using the 250s dual for solar regulator. The car could be wired to it if required.
If you remove the power supply your self make sure the 240 volt is unpugged first. There is naked 240 volt terminals in there once the cover is removed.
My power supply was under the dinette seat. I removed it & made up a platform to mount the replacement charger & fuse block.
Cheers Pete
Cupie said
12:13 PM Oct 9, 2017
wasn_me wrote:
Hi Cupie.
Check my recent post in "show us your rig". I had a problem with the power supply. I removed it & replaced as per some of the above advise.
I only fitted the guages cause I could, They'ye not a necessity.
I'm only using the 250s dual for solar regulator. The car could be wired to it if required.
If you remove the power supply your self make sure the 240 volt is unpugged first. There is naked 240 volt terminals in there once the cover is removed.
My power supply was under the dinette seat. I removed it & made up a platform to mount the replacement charger & fuse block.
Cheers Pete
Thanks Pete .. Got a copy of that. It's along the lines of what Macka & others were saying. Perhaps I should revise my solar installation program & combine it with this replacement task using a smart charger.
I know what you mean about exposed 240v wiring. I was surprised to see that mine had an unprotected busbar for each of the earth & Neutral (why one would ask) and the active was joined by an electrical connector but nor taped or otherwise protected. Bit of a worry. Mexican made about 20 years ago.
BTW what SOC meter did you choose?
macka17 said
09:55 PM Oct 9, 2017
My Waeco built in fridge Power supply died on a prev van.
Removed. Installed a Smart (3 or 4 way in those days.) charger.
It ran fridge and charged van battery's for yonks. when sun not shining
till I upgraded van.
You don't NEED a power supply nowadays. They dead money.
A con. You tied to power supply AC.
The solar gives you "FREEEEEEEDOM".
as the man with the blue face screamed.
B4 most of them got killed.
AWwwwww. "Skoootland Forever". Till we all ded anyway.
"Ere you go.
2 x 130w panels del $260.
and or.....
1 x 200w Del $240ish
For around the Cost of Power supply, and you have free standing solar.
Updatable at later times.
MUCH better alternative I reckon.
Plug in. Charger does job.
Any other time. Sun shining.
FREE POWER Complete no brainer.
Add it up. and\or. speak to Solar owners.
VicOffroads sell pretty good quality cells\panels.
Sharp and Sun-way? cells.
Warren-Pat_01 said
10:43 PM Oct 9, 2017
Cupie,
The advantage of the SETEC system is that there is minimal mucking around to change it & the series 2 units are "Smart" & can charge to 35A. I've done tests to prove it. But they are EXPENSIVE as you've found.
As far as a voltage monitor goes, the minimal meter you need is available from Jaycar (www.jaycar.com.au/cigarette-lighter-battery-monitor/p/QP2220). It will plug into a 12v cigarette lighter socket & costs $20. See also the Techies Post recently called "Doing the Maths" for the voltages that you should see.
I would suggest you use a small solar panel (eg 20-40w) to float your battery when you are at home, rather than the van's 240v system. The SETEC & CETEK systems do have a solar input so you don't need another regulator.
Warren
wasn_me said
09:06 AM Oct 10, 2017
Cupie wrote:
Thanks Pete .. Got a copy of that. It's along the lines of what Macka & others were saying. Perhaps I should revise my solar installation program & combine it with this replacement task using a smart charger.
I know what you mean about exposed 240v wiring. I was surprised to see that mine had an unprotected busbar for each of the earth & Neutral (why one would ask) and the active was joined by an electrical connector but nor taped or otherwise protected. Bit of a worry. Mexican made about 20 years ago.
BTW what SOC meter did you choose?
Hi Cupie,
That's not an SOC meter. it's a voltmeter & amp meter. The minimum is a volt meter. The volt meter I used was around $20 from jaycar.
The cost of my conversion approx,
240 volt charger $220
ctek 250s dual $340
fuse block $50
solar panel $190
You could fit the charger & fuse block as start & add solar later.
Cheers Pete
macka17 said
11:37 AM Oct 10, 2017
As above Cupie.
But a $50 basic regulator will cover to 20a.
no need for super ones.
I bought a 40a 4 way charger 5 or 6 yrs ago on net, Still fine.
$130.
You don't NEED a smart one.
Your Panel\s will "float" battery at a higher voltage anyway.
$99 x 2 will buy 2 x 100w panels. or $260 for 260w in panels del.
Do NOT buy the cheap. No name cells. Sometimes you unlucky.
I have Analog. V.A meters. set up in a box to mount on wall from yrs ago.(yachts)
Tricky Dicky speshuls.
I find then easier to read from a dist.
Still work fine. Have mounted on wall inside deck door.
Conn,. to solar on carport roof charging boat battery's.
Lets me know without going outside.
Price things on net. and look for "reviews"...on ALL items you fancy. First.
U Tube is a good start point.
Cupie said
06:05 PM Oct 12, 2017
Thank you all for your replies.
I have taken them all on board & consulted both my Financial Controller (SWMBO) and tomorrow I will run my plan past my Technical advisor.
This is what I propose ..
200w solar from Vic Offroads @215.95 (plus $100 cabling etc) connecting ... via
a DC/DC CTEK D250S Dual @ 292.99 ( Vehicle power via Andersen connects here too) .. to a
Giant 110Ah AGM @$269 from Aussie Batt & Solar
For 240v supply situations I will use a CTEK Multi US 7002 Smart charger @ $149.99
I have included a couple of those Digital Volt/Watt meters (from Jaahn's post) to give me a rough idea of what's going on. One in the charge side of the battery & one in the common load return (neg) I think. I'm not inclined towards a real SOC system for the price they sell at.
Notes .. On my van all lights are 12v LEDs that draw 240mA each, The shower fan is 12v too Don't know yet what it draws. A lot I think. The Pump is 12v too if not on town water. Everything else is 240v when available except HWS that is Gas only. 3 way fridge on gas if free camp. Forgot bloody TV & aerial amp. I'll have to wire them for 12v too ... currently off 240v.
The Charger has a Supply mode that can work without a battery & is OK for 14 to 225A/H batts plus the 7a max output is (just) OK for my CP light situations while still charging battery if necessary. A larger CTEC one was a bit too costly @ $324 v $ $149 . My solar will be charging too so it shouldn't be a problem.
Any suggestions or criticisms are welcome .. I've got a thick skin.
Once again .. thank all for your input ... I got a lot from the Solar sub forum too, especially the 'doing the sums' thread.
I'll get serious about all of my usage a bit later (The purists would say it's essential to do that first). Then I can set the free camp rules for SWMBO .. who will then do what she wants to anyway.
-- Edited by Cupie on Thursday 12th of October 2017 06:17:25 PM
swamp said
11:23 AM Oct 14, 2017
Hi
Jayco setec is a 35 amp power supply for use in c/parks etc
It charges an aux battery at the rate of 15 amps
The most common setups are either for 1 or 2 AGM batteries 100-120ah each
240volt ac charger 15-25amp eg projecta brand 200-300$
solar and dcto dc eg Projecta IDC 25amp 250-300$$
solar if needed upto 25amps mppt
dc to dc charger functions like a 240v charger but from your car altenator [supply ] to the van batts
Solar panel cost plus install
could start with 160watt portable set with Anderson connection at draw bar . Do the roof mounted later .
Ideally its best to have 160watt to 200watt of panel to each 100-120 ah battery.
PeterD said
09:13 PM Oct 14, 2017
Warren-Pat_01 wrote:
The advantage of the SETEC system is that there is minimal mucking around to change it & the series 2 units are "Smart" & can charge to 35A. I've done tests to prove it. But they are EXPENSIVE as you've found.
Warren
That is not so. They are supplying 35 A total maximum. The battery output is 15 A maximum or less if the house load is more then 20 A. Read the handbook, it describes the capacity thus:
Battery Charging current is limited to a maximum of 10A (ST20-II) and 15A (ST35-II). This provides optimum life for the batteries. To charge at the maximum battery charge current above, ensure the load current plus battery current is equal or less than the maximum output current. The charging current will be reduced in situations where the difference between the rated output current and the load current (the available charging current), is less than the maximum charging current.
In addition the battery charging function is not very good. It may supply 35 A when a battery is fairly flat but they do not put out sufficient voltage to fully charge a battery.If you are in doubt then compare the charging voltages of a Setec with the charging voltages of a proper charger.
The power Supply in my 20 YO Westport has finally carked it.
On our last trip the LED lights seemed a bit dull & when I turned on the parallel incandescent ones they really went dull. Some wouldn't even switch on. So I deduced that I had no 12v output from the Power supply. Elec tests confirmed this and the battery was certainly about flat. It's an old battery too.
We don't free camp so I don't watch the battery condition as I don't have a monitoring system permanently connected. I leave it on float when at home. Examination of the power supply revealed several components with corroded legs & one or two completely broken. It has suffered from moisture damage perhaps over many years .. who knows. To repair it would be a couple of days work & then I would probably not have a reliable PS anyway.
So ..
I am in the process of replacing it. (And putting in a basic monitoring system as well as water proofing & ventilating the PS enclosure)
It seems that the recommended replacement is a Setec ST35-111. That's the one that Jayco stock as a replacement for $677.60.
I can get one from a local RV parts supplier for $495 over the counter, which seems OK to me.
My question is ... Does anybody know of an alternative or a better (delivered) price?
... and ideas on a simple monitoring system?
ps .. Jayco recommend a PS with a 35A capacity for my size van ... like the orig one was. The original PS make is discontinued.
-- Edited by Cupie on Sunday 8th of October 2017 09:41:51 PM
Buy one or a coupla 130w Panels and Regulator.
With an AC 20a Smart battery charger.
Elect drill pop rivetter. U Tube, and ebay.
You'll have a free running\Independant. 12v system.
with Smart. Ac charging for when on mains.
Half a days work after you set up panels for mounting. (Ally angle 2inch x 8inch strips)
Hire (Broons?)
2 x 9ft trestles plus 1 or 2 same in planks.
Set up alongside van on level and go for it.
DON'T go the old "fall off" single ladder trick leaning on side of van.
NO WAY.
Leads to neck brace. walking frame. Quadriplegic, etc.
For the sake of $50 hire.
Morning Cupie, after my original power supply failed on our motor home about 3 years ago I installed a https://www.edisons.com.au/ctek-12v-15amp-mxs15-smart-battery-charger/
It has 2 x 75 AH batteries to look after, hasn't missed a beat, easy to install, very happy with the result and only $250.
-- Edited by Santa on Monday 9th of October 2017 08:38:39 AM
If however the existing power supply is not an earlier one of that type, and for instance is mounted in the boot etc. then a range of possibilities open up. It would pay you to invest in new 12v batteries as well. I would also look at a DC-Dc charger mounted near the van batteries, using the feed from the vehicle to charge while driving. As above, ctek have a range of units to do this.
Enquire about the new system now being installed in the Jayco vans, it is completely different to the previous units, and very neat.
Some van manufactures do not have a 240v to 12v power supply. They install a battery and a good battery charger which does that same thing.
Warren
My Fridge is 12 Volt only and was run on a CTek 240 Volt to 12 Volt Charger .The type designed to be used as a 24/7 power supply. Packed up and my local Auto electrician told me to buy one of these for $60
Been running for two years now, the CTek cost around the $250 mark. It had lasted about two years.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-240V-to-DC-12V-50A-600W-Voltage-Transformer-Switch-Power-Supply-Converter-AU-/152614950440?hash=item23888f5628:g:zjIAAOSwuq9ZX03v
Supplied from Australian Sources.
I was told by the electrician a very well known Australian company source these and put on their own labels and sell for $190. Can't verify but when I looked at both they certainly looked identical and the copper windings inside looked to be the same gauge.
Thanks all. The very good replies have me thinking in a new direction.
I am aware of the new hi tech Setec system that Jcar are using, though I haven't investigated it. Before making a final decision I will price it & look at the physical installation aspect.
I like the idea of putting in one or two Ctek units (they can be installed with 2 or more to increase the charge rate). Perhaps just one & add another if not coping. The only downside of doing that is that when the battery carks I am stuffed, as different to the Power Supply approach which works with or without a battery.
The hole in the wall is not an issue as I can make a metal cover to mount the new device on or perhaps just use the old face to open and give access to the new stuff mounted in the old case. I can even use the old load distribution fuse assembly.
I do need a new battery & intend getting one irrespective of what I decide.
My current 'from vehicle' charging is via a dedicated accessory relay but I intend perhaps one day moving to a van mounted DC/DC charger that has solar input capability. It was our intention to try free camping with the low cost option, before moving to Solar in the unlikely event that it suits SWMBO. I'll need to examine the solar option in more detail particularly the associated overall costs. I'll use the trestle & plank approach if I go that way. My son has a good set. My neighbour has an old hardwood set but they are far too heavy & difficult to manoeuvre for an old fart like me.
We don't intend using the van for a few months so I have plenty of time to explore options and consult with my expert friend who does all my electronics stuff while I steadily regress to an out of date techno dumbo.
Once again thank you all for your excellent opinions.
Edit .. Two more great inputs while I was typing the above. I'll certainly look at the smart charger options (any recommendations on that & the SOC device pls?).
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 9th of October 2017 10:51:00 AM
-- Edited by Cupie on Monday 9th of October 2017 11:25:51 AM
Hi Cupie.
Check my recent post in "show us your rig". I had a problem with the power supply. I removed it & replaced as per some of the above advise.
I only fitted the guages cause I could, They'ye not a necessity.
I'm only using the 250s dual for solar regulator. The car could be wired to it if required.
If you remove the power supply your self make sure the 240 volt is unpugged first. There is naked 240 volt terminals in there once the cover is removed.
My power supply was under the dinette seat. I removed it & made up a platform to mount the replacement charger & fuse block.
Cheers Pete
Thanks Pete .. Got a copy of that. It's along the lines of what Macka & others were saying. Perhaps I should revise my solar installation program & combine it with this replacement task using a smart charger.
I know what you mean about exposed 240v wiring. I was surprised to see that mine had an unprotected busbar for each of the earth & Neutral (why one would ask) and the active was joined by an electrical connector but nor taped or otherwise protected. Bit of a worry. Mexican made about 20 years ago.
BTW what SOC meter did you choose?
Removed. Installed a Smart (3 or 4 way in those days.) charger.
It ran fridge and charged van battery's for yonks. when sun not shining
till I upgraded van.
You don't NEED a power supply nowadays. They dead money.
A con. You tied to power supply AC.
The solar gives you "FREEEEEEEDOM".
as the man with the blue face screamed.
B4 most of them got killed.
AWwwwww. "Skoootland Forever". Till we all ded anyway.
"Ere you go.
2 x 130w panels del $260.
and or.....
1 x 200w Del $240ish
1 x Regulator. Medium quality one. $100.
Cable, clamps, Aluminium angle . rivets. Sika Pro. $100ish
For around the Cost of Power supply, and you have free standing solar.
Updatable at later times.
MUCH better alternative I reckon.
Plug in. Charger does job.
Any other time. Sun shining.
FREE POWER Complete no brainer.
Add it up. and\or. speak to Solar owners.
VicOffroads sell pretty good quality cells\panels.
Sharp and Sun-way? cells.
The advantage of the SETEC system is that there is minimal mucking around to change it & the series 2 units are "Smart" & can charge to 35A. I've done tests to prove it. But they are EXPENSIVE as you've found.
As far as a voltage monitor goes, the minimal meter you need is available from Jaycar (www.jaycar.com.au/cigarette-lighter-battery-monitor/p/QP2220). It will plug into a 12v cigarette lighter socket & costs $20. See also the Techies Post recently called "Doing the Maths" for the voltages that you should see.
I would suggest you use a small solar panel (eg 20-40w) to float your battery when you are at home, rather than the van's 240v system. The SETEC & CETEK systems do have a solar input so you don't need another regulator.
Warren
Hi Cupie,
That's not an SOC meter. it's a voltmeter & amp meter. The minimum is a volt meter. The volt meter I used was around $20 from jaycar.
The cost of my conversion approx,
240 volt charger $220
ctek 250s dual $340
fuse block $50
solar panel $190
You could fit the charger & fuse block as start & add solar later.
Cheers Pete
But a $50 basic regulator will cover to 20a.
no need for super ones.
I bought a 40a 4 way charger 5 or 6 yrs ago on net, Still fine.
$130.
You don't NEED a smart one.
Your Panel\s will "float" battery at a higher voltage anyway.
$99 x 2 will buy 2 x 100w panels. or $260 for 260w in panels del.
Do NOT buy the cheap. No name cells. Sometimes you unlucky.
I have Analog. V.A meters. set up in a box to mount on wall from yrs ago.(yachts)
Tricky Dicky speshuls.
I find then easier to read from a dist.
Still work fine. Have mounted on wall inside deck door.
Conn,. to solar on carport roof charging boat battery's.
Lets me know without going outside.
Price things on net. and look for "reviews"...on ALL items you fancy. First.
U Tube is a good start point.
Thank you all for your replies.
I have taken them all on board & consulted both my Financial Controller (SWMBO) and tomorrow I will run my plan past my Technical advisor.
This is what I propose ..
200w solar from Vic Offroads @215.95 (plus $100 cabling etc) connecting ... via
a DC/DC CTEK D250S Dual @ 292.99 ( Vehicle power via Andersen connects here too) .. to a
Giant 110Ah AGM @$269 from Aussie Batt & Solar
For 240v supply situations I will use a CTEK Multi US 7002 Smart charger @ $149.99
I have included a couple of those Digital Volt/Watt meters (from Jaahn's post) to give me a rough idea of what's going on. One in the charge side of the battery & one in the common load return (neg) I think. I'm not inclined towards a real SOC system for the price they sell at.
Notes .. On my van all lights are 12v LEDs that draw 240mA each, The shower fan is 12v too Don't know yet what it draws. A lot I think. The Pump is 12v too if not on town water. Everything else is 240v when available except HWS that is Gas only. 3 way fridge on gas if free camp. Forgot bloody TV & aerial amp. I'll have to wire them for 12v too ... currently off 240v.
The Charger has a Supply mode that can work without a battery & is OK for 14 to 225A/H batts plus the 7a max output is (just) OK for my CP light situations while still charging battery if necessary. A larger CTEC one was a bit too costly @ $324 v $ $149 . My solar will be charging too so it shouldn't be a problem.
Any suggestions or criticisms are welcome .. I've got a thick skin.
Once again .. thank all for your input ... I got a lot from the Solar sub forum too, especially the 'doing the sums' thread.
I'll get serious about all of my usage a bit later (The purists would say it's essential to do that first). Then I can set the free camp rules for SWMBO .. who will then do what she wants to anyway.
-- Edited by Cupie on Thursday 12th of October 2017 06:17:25 PM
Jayco setec is a 35 amp power supply for use in c/parks etc
It charges an aux battery at the rate of 15 amps
The most common setups are either for 1 or 2 AGM batteries 100-120ah each
240volt ac charger 15-25amp eg projecta brand 200-300$
solar and dcto dc eg Projecta IDC 25amp 250-300$$
solar if needed upto 25amps mppt
dc to dc charger functions like a 240v charger but from your car altenator [supply ] to the van batts
Solar panel cost plus install
could start with 160watt portable set with Anderson connection at draw bar . Do the roof mounted later .
Ideally its best to have 160watt to 200watt of panel to each 100-120 ah battery.
That is not so. They are supplying 35 A total maximum. The battery output is 15 A maximum or less if the house load is more then 20 A. Read the handbook, it describes the capacity thus:
In addition the battery charging function is not very good. It may supply 35 A when a battery is fairly flat but they do not put out sufficient voltage to fully charge a battery.If you are in doubt then compare the charging voltages of a Setec with the charging voltages of a proper charger.