Just purchased and used a Anderson plug terminal crimping tool. 50A Cable Crimper LUG LS16, $27.00 delivered. from Autoelec.com.au in Bairnsdale. Pre ratchet 1 click to hold terminal and clic away, auto release once done. leaves enough room for solder if you crimp in the middle. They say they use themselves in their workshop. No affiliation with me, but so far good value. cheers Craig
Old Col said
06:43 AM Nov 5, 2017
you forgot the AU in the link
patrol03 said
07:51 AM Nov 5, 2017
A well crimped terminal with shrink-wrap is preferable to solder. Auto manufacturers and trade always crimp.That solder makes a better join is mythical.In many cases it is the beginning of the corrosion process.
swamp said
11:11 AM Nov 5, 2017
Hi
in the auto world ,crimping is quicker and cheaper plus no learning curve . Soldered cables still exist by oem .
macka17 said
11:33 AM Nov 5, 2017
Multi strand\Electrical current. Solder all the way. up to around 1\4 inch.
Crimping better above that.
I have a crimper BUT not wide enuff jaws. Every time I crimped an Anderson
I got a Banana crimp.
I ended up using an old 18in Bolt cutter used for cutting Yacht rigging.
Welded a piece on each cut out in jaw so they didn't slice just compress.
Purrfect every time now.
PeterD said
11:34 AM Nov 5, 2017
Craig1 wrote:
Leaves enough room for solder if you crimp in the middle.
If you solder a crimped joint you weaken it. The cable you crimp in the connector is annealed copper. When you solder it that hardens the copper which in turn makes it more liable to fracture in high vibration situations, another reason that crimped joints are better.
Tony Bev said
12:03 PM Nov 5, 2017
Craig1 wrote:
Just purchased and used a Anderson plug terminal crimping tool. 50A Cable Crimper LUG LS16, $27.00 delivered. from Autoelec.com.au in Bairnsdale. Pre ratchet 1 click to hold terminal and clic away, auto release once done. leaves enough room for solder if you crimp in the middle. They say they use themselves in their workshop. No affiliation with me, but so far good value. cheers Craig
Hi Craig1
I am not an electrician
If you are talking about this type of crimping tool from Autoelec In this link here
I have a similar one, and they are very good
With Anderson type plugs, I use solder only The method behind my madness is :-
I find that (while playing around), I can remove the wire from the lugs, using my el cheapo gas torch This allows me to reuse the Anderson type plugs, on something else
On any open lugs, (which will not hold the solder), I crimp only
Not sure if this is the correct way to go about it, but it seems to work for me
Hylife said
11:03 PM Nov 5, 2017
I've had one of these from Jaycar for a couple of years now. Works like a cantilevered bolt cutter. Easy to use, even for arthritis sufferers.
Not so cheap at $50 but they come on special from time to time at approx. $25 each.
Hi
Even crimped automotive connection can break from vibration . Typically happens when cable is not supported by extended connector , sticky heat shrink ,electrical wrap ,wrapped OEM loom and not affixed to body work . And even silicon can stop vibration .
If u solder properly not allowing solder to migrate up the cable [to stiffen it ] there should be no issues .
Craig1 said
03:42 PM Nov 6, 2017
Hi to Tony/ Bev. Yep that's the one, sometimes my IT skills are scary, couldn't figure out how to do the " link". I also found if I " preloaded" the crimper by one click it would hold the terminal and then I could make sure the wire was fully inserted prior to final crimping. Cheers Craig
Just purchased and used a Anderson plug terminal crimping tool. 50A Cable Crimper LUG LS16, $27.00 delivered. from Autoelec.com.au in Bairnsdale. Pre ratchet 1 click to hold terminal and clic away, auto release once done. leaves enough room for solder if you crimp in the middle. They say they use themselves in their workshop. No affiliation with me, but so far good value. cheers Craig
in the auto world ,crimping is quicker and cheaper plus no learning curve . Soldered cables still exist by oem .
Crimping better above that.
I have a crimper BUT not wide enuff jaws. Every time I crimped an Anderson
I got a Banana crimp.
I ended up using an old 18in Bolt cutter used for cutting Yacht rigging.
Welded a piece on each cut out in jaw so they didn't slice just compress.
Purrfect every time now.
If you solder a crimped joint you weaken it. The cable you crimp in the connector is annealed copper. When you solder it that hardens the copper which in turn makes it more liable to fracture in high vibration situations, another reason that crimped joints are better.
Hi Craig1
I am not an electrician
If you are talking about this type of crimping tool from Autoelec
In this link here
I have a similar one, and they are very good
With Anderson type plugs, I use solder only
The method behind my madness is :-
I find that (while playing around), I can remove the wire from the lugs, using my el cheapo gas torch
This allows me to reuse the Anderson type plugs, on something else
On any open lugs, (which will not hold the solder), I crimp only
Not sure if this is the correct way to go about it, but it seems to work for me
I've had one of these from Jaycar for a couple of years now. Works like a cantilevered bolt cutter. Easy to use, even for arthritis sufferers.
Not so cheap at $50 but they come on special from time to time at approx. $25 each.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/heavy-duty-terminal-crimper/p/TH1849
Even crimped automotive connection can break from vibration . Typically happens when cable is not supported by extended connector , sticky heat shrink ,electrical wrap ,wrapped OEM loom and not affixed to body work . And even silicon can stop vibration .
If u solder properly not allowing solder to migrate up the cable [to stiffen it ] there should be no issues .