Hope I can verbalize this better than the spaghetti factory Jayco produces with their wiring.
I have 2 wires running from an Anderson plug along my draw-bar to just under the front of the van. There are 2 more wires joined (soldered joint) at this point, 1 runs (Black) to Aux In +VE and the other (white) runs to L5 -VE (Pump Toilet Fuse) on the Setec 35 unit. From the joint point the other 2 wires run back to my fridge.
I was always under the understanding that the 2 wires from the Anderson plug ran straight back to my fridge which I would like to happen once I sort what the 2 wires running to the Setec unit are for.
The fridge wire are way too small measuring approx 4mm outside diameter so from the information already gained it seems they would need replacing anyway.
The van is fitted with solar panels and 2 Gel Batteries which take care of the 12 volt system and the fridge is switched to 240/Gas once destination is reached so having the fridge draw from the van batteries does not have to happen.
Enjoying the expertise of my fellow vanners and thanking you for your comments
Joe
PS what does VE stand for on the Setec unit? Might be a simple question but I'm a simple fellow.
JoeJan said
01:20 PM Dec 19, 2017
Just adding to my post. Have just taken a reading at the tugs Anderson Plug and got a reading of 13.75 V, down from initial start up of around 14.6v. So with that I would say all good on the tug.
The reading at the back of the fridge was 11.95 V, I see that as being down and the need for larger wiring being the order of the day. Am I correct i
with this thinking?
The other consideration is that the only fuse I have in the system is a auto reset at the tugs battery (25 amp). Should I put a fuse closer to the fridge end also?
Cheers
Joe
aussie_paul said
01:54 PM Dec 19, 2017
Hi Joe, I went through what you are going through with the Jayco wiring
I have finally replaced the Setec with a fuse block and a dedicated 240V charger. The Setec does not work very well as 240v charger.
Please find attached User manual. Hope this is of some help. PM me if required.
Aussie Paul
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 19th of December 2017 01:58:05 PM
JoeJan wrote:1.. I was always under the understanding that the 2 wires from the Anderson plug ran straight back to my fridge which I would like to happen once I sort what the 2 wires running to the Setec unit are for.
2.. The fridge wire are way too small measuring approx 4mm outside diameter so from the information already gained it seems they would need replacing anyway.
3.. The van is fitted with solar panels and 2 Gel Batteries which take care of the 12 volt system and the fridge is switched to 240/Gas once destination is reached so having the fridge draw from the van batteries does not have to happen.
4.. PS what does VE stand for on the Setec unit? Might be a simple question but I'm a simple fellow.
I'm not sure what model Setec you have in your van but on the outside they are all much the same. If it is not the Setec II let us know and we will point you to where you can download the correct handbook.
1.. If you look at the diagram on page 1 of the handbook You will see a "DC External Input" terminal. The Anderson plug +ve feeds through to it. The 1ve lead goes to a convenient terminal on the case. If you follow the circuit through the box you will see that it feeds through a diode (a one way electrical device) to the terminal that provide the house 12 V loads. This is for supplying lights from the tugs starting battery when you are stopping overnight. Way back when the Setec power supplies were designed very few vans had batteries and that's the way we camped, we used the tugs battery for our mega power requirements.
Now follow down through the Isense resistor and you will see that the Anderson plug also supplies current to charge the battery via the "Battery Output" terminals. This does not charge the battery very well as the voltage drop through the diode is around 0.6 V. The other thing that makes this a very poor charging circuit is the size of the cabling that Jayco installs (as you have already found out.)
2.. I totally agree.
3.. The battery will not power the fridge 12 V element as the diode is there to make sure it does not. That's one thing they got right.
4.. VE is part of -ve or +ve which is shorthand for negative or positive.
PeterD said
02:41 PM Dec 19, 2017
JoeJan wrote:
1.. Just adding to my post. Have just taken a reading at the tugs Anderson Plug and got a reading of 13.75 V, down from initial start up of around 14.6v. So with that I would say all good on the tug.
2.. The reading at the back of the fridge was 11.95 V, I see that as being down and the need for larger wiring being the order of the day. Am I correct i with this thinking?
3.. The other consideration is that the only fuse I have in the system is a auto reset at the tugs battery (25 amp). Should I put a fuse closer to the fridge end also?
1.. Yes, shows things are OK up to the Anderson plug. If the voltage drop to 13.75 V was after a fair time and the motor was at its usual running temperature then it could indicate that the alternator in your tug is temperature compensated. What is the make and model of your tug?
2.. Correct
3.. Never. A fuse where it is not needed is a major source of potential trouble. There are only two places you need a fuse. The first is at the source of a device that is capable of overheating the wire if it short circuits somewhere down the line. That is why you put a fuse near a battery but not near a solar panel. The second place is where you have a high current circuit supplying a wire that will not be protected by the fuse or circuit breaker at the battery. You only need a fuse or circuit breaker to protect the wiring. Neither are fast enough acting to protect electrical/electronic equipment. There is no point in including them at the equipment end as they cannot be effective there.
JoeJan said
05:59 PM Dec 19, 2017
Peter D
Thanks you for taking the time to reply and not only is your reply appreciated but the response others have given also.
My Tug is a 2016 Holden Colorado
Setec Unit is ST-35
Starting to understand it all a little more so thanks
Hope I can verbalize this better than the spaghetti factory Jayco produces with their wiring.
I have 2 wires running from an Anderson plug along my draw-bar to just under the front of the van. There are 2 more wires joined (soldered joint) at this point, 1 runs (Black) to Aux In +VE and the other (white) runs to L5 -VE (Pump Toilet Fuse) on the Setec 35 unit. From the joint point the other 2 wires run back to my fridge.
I was always under the understanding that the 2 wires from the Anderson plug ran straight back to my fridge which I would like to happen once I sort what the 2 wires running to the Setec unit are for.
The fridge wire are way too small measuring approx 4mm outside diameter so from the information already gained it seems they would need replacing anyway.
The van is fitted with solar panels and 2 Gel Batteries which take care of the 12 volt system and the fridge is switched to 240/Gas once destination is reached so having the fridge draw from the van batteries does not have to happen.
Enjoying the expertise of my fellow vanners and thanking you for your comments
Joe
PS what does VE stand for on the Setec unit? Might be a simple question but I'm a simple fellow.
The reading at the back of the fridge was 11.95 V, I see that as being down and the need for larger wiring being the order of the day. Am I correct i
with this thinking?
The other consideration is that the only fuse I have in the system is a auto reset at the tugs battery (25 amp). Should I put a fuse closer to the fridge end also?
Cheers
Joe
Hi Joe, I went through what you are going through with the Jayco wiring
I have finally replaced the Setec with a fuse block and a dedicated 240V charger. The Setec does not work very well as 240v charger.
Please find attached User manual. Hope this is of some help. PM me if required.
Aussie Paul
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Tuesday 19th of December 2017 01:58:05 PM
I'm not sure what model Setec you have in your van but on the outside they are all much the same. If it is not the Setec II let us know and we will point you to where you can download the correct handbook.
1.. If you look at the diagram on page 1 of the handbook You will see a "DC External Input" terminal. The Anderson plug +ve feeds through to it. The 1ve lead goes to a convenient terminal on the case. If you follow the circuit through the box you will see that it feeds through a diode (a one way electrical device) to the terminal that provide the house 12 V loads. This is for supplying lights from the tugs starting battery when you are stopping overnight. Way back when the Setec power supplies were designed very few vans had batteries and that's the way we camped, we used the tugs battery for our mega power requirements.
Now follow down through the Isense resistor and you will see that the Anderson plug also supplies current to charge the battery via the "Battery Output" terminals. This does not charge the battery very well as the voltage drop through the diode is around 0.6 V. The other thing that makes this a very poor charging circuit is the size of the cabling that Jayco installs (as you have already found out.)
2.. I totally agree.
3.. The battery will not power the fridge 12 V element as the diode is there to make sure it does not. That's one thing they got right.
4.. VE is part of -ve or +ve which is shorthand for negative or positive.
Thanks you for taking the time to reply and not only is your reply appreciated but the response others have given also.
My Tug is a 2016 Holden Colorado
Setec Unit is ST-35
Starting to understand it all a little more so thanks
Joe
I was more concerned whether it was a series I, II or III Here is the link to all of them.