For some time I've contemplated shortening the Hayman Reese hitch shank by 80 mm.
Unfortunately I always look at it while we are away touring where I don't have the facilities to do the job.
To my way of thinking and with the reading I've done over the years, if I can get the ball just 80 mm closer to the axle then handling can only improve.
At present I have no obvious handling problems in fact the setup works well.
What do the experienced 'vanners out there think, would I be better off shortening the shank by what appears to be 80 mm?
Yes shorten it ! All positive IMHO. Only down side might be more risk of the coupling bumping the car when backing up to hitch it on.
Jaahn
KevinC said
11:28 AM Feb 12, 2018
Agree with Jaahn. Mine was sticking out too far so I took it to a machine shop and had it drilled so it fits tight against the bar. Like in your top photo. But I can't see how you intend to shorten yours. If it's already been drilled you may find another hole would be too close to the existing one. Maybe a bit more info?
Dickodownunder said
11:30 AM Feb 12, 2018
Shorten it if possible but before being confident with the new dimension ensure that when jacknifed the vehicle is not going to conflict with the drawbar or any other part of the van or trailer.
Stoneshields and the like can be close to the tow vehicle when manoevering with sharp angles.
patrol03 said
01:35 PM Feb 12, 2018
I would certainly shorten your unit. You can fill the hole with a piece of 13/16 rod and tack weld each side then grind off.The heat from the weld will not effect the strength of the bar. The only downside is that with a longer drawbar it is easier to back but 80mm shorter may not be noticeable. I have shortened mine in the manner I have described. No change felt but leverage factor reduced.
Sparkster said
04:10 PM Feb 12, 2018
Thanks for the replies so far, all good stuff.
I will do a check for the "jack knife" scenario although I don't have boxes or stone guards etc. on this 'van.
In both my photos I am using the holes in the existing shank as I had one drilled a few years ago, forgotten why now.
I had the shank shortened about an inch by a local machine shop not long ago to facilitate the spare on the new car so if I go ahead he'll get the job again. Ten minutes work for him and $20 - bargain! Much cleaner cut than I can do on that size solid bar.
Barboots said
09:03 PM Feb 12, 2018
I have a shortened "trunnion" HR part I'd be happy to swap with you. Inner Perth metro, if you're in this part of the world.
kesa32 said
12:31 AM Feb 13, 2018
l was told there has to be 50mm of metal either side of the hole to be legal.......no other holes, welds etc
mezza56 said
08:08 AM Feb 13, 2018
I contacted HR re shortening mine as on the Ford ranger towbar it could not slide all the way in like on the HR bar , they said it was a No No , the same hitch on our genuine Toyota towbar slides all the way in now. I suggest not listening to anyone here and contact them first .From what I have heard some people have had it cut , but using a water /oil fed saw to keep the temp right down.
Dick0 said
12:10 PM Feb 17, 2018
Yep, shortened mine (as in your pic) and, also, removed all vertical and horizontal play with thin metal "packing". No movement & no rattles.
For some time I've contemplated shortening the Hayman Reese hitch shank by 80 mm.
Unfortunately I always look at it while we are away touring where I don't have the facilities to do the job.
To my way of thinking and with the reading I've done over the years, if I can get the ball just 80 mm closer to the axle then handling can only improve.
At present I have no obvious handling problems in fact the setup works well.
What do the experienced 'vanners out there think, would I be better off shortening the shank by what appears to be 80 mm?
Any pros and cons would be much appreciated.
![DSCN0033[1].JPG](/download.spark?ID=2121247&aBID=51933 "DSCN0033[1].JPG")
![DSCN0034[1].JPG](/download.spark?ID=2121248&aBID=51933 "DSCN0034[1].JPG")
Hi
Yes shorten it ! All positive IMHO. Only down side might be more risk of the coupling bumping the car when backing up to hitch it on.
Jaahn
Stoneshields and the like can be close to the tow vehicle when manoevering with sharp angles.
Thanks for the replies so far, all good stuff.
I will do a check for the "jack knife" scenario although I don't have boxes or stone guards etc. on this 'van.
In both my photos I am using the holes in the existing shank as I had one drilled a few years ago, forgotten why now.
I had the shank shortened about an inch by a local machine shop not long ago to facilitate the spare on the new car so if I go ahead he'll get the job again. Ten minutes work for him and $20 - bargain! Much cleaner cut than I can do on that size solid bar.
I contacted HR re shortening mine as on the Ford ranger towbar it could not slide all the way in like on the HR bar , they said it was a No No , the same hitch on our genuine Toyota towbar slides all the way in now. I suggest not listening to anyone here and contact them first .From what I have heard some people have had it cut , but using a water /oil fed saw to keep the temp right down.
Yep, shortened mine (as in your pic) and, also, removed all vertical and horizontal play with thin metal "packing". No movement & no rattles.