Just curious, during services you may have had done, what happens to the wheel bearings, and for what price?
Craig1 said
10:00 PM Mar 2, 2018
Assume you mean trailer/caravan -Wheel bearings are cheap. They should normally be either repacked or replaced after being packed" with wheel bearing grease in both cases". If subject to water immersion they often go rusty or squirt the grease out, then often fail, usually with a lot of drama. More technical people than me can add I am sure. cheers Craig
Re The Phrase " Finger Tight" for bearing adjustment, my finger tight is not tight as I get some slight wheel rock when moving the outside edges of the van tyre, so tighten up a wisker.
Appreciate to tight, can cause Bearing failure issues when the bearing gets hot.
Peter
iana said
12:42 AM Mar 3, 2018
I'm asking what actuarly happens to the bearings during the service at the garage. Wheel just jacked off the ground and the wheel spun, or removed and more grease just added, or removed, cleaned examined and re-greased, or just replaced with new.
Just curious. Do you know?
swamp said
02:09 AM Mar 3, 2018
Hi
inspect wheel bearings is inspect and report
Repack wheel bearings is changing grease and change bearings if worn out optional .
blaze said
03:42 AM Mar 3, 2018
you cant clain to have serviced or really even checked a wheel bearing unless it is removed, cleaned and repacked, refitted with a new seal, just because it has no moment and spin quiet dosnt mean its not going to fail 500km down the road
cheers
blaze
KevinC said
07:05 AM Mar 3, 2018
iana wrote:
Just curious, during services you may have had done, what happens to the wheel bearings, and for what price?
When I do mine I remove the bearings, just the roller part (cones) not the cups, and wash them out with diesel so they're clean and then examine them for any signs of discolouration or pitting on the rollers themselves. Provided they're OK, I look at the cups, the bits in the hub that the bearings sit in, and make sure they're also smooth. If everything is new looking I reassemble with some new grease squeezed through the bearings and lightly packed around. I don't fill the whole cavity with grease, nor do I use bearing buddies like you might on a boat trailer.
If one of the bearings is showing signs of wear, I replace the lot, cups and cones on all wheels, so they're all the same age. Just a bit anal I suppose.
So when I'm finished, I believe the bearings are as good as when it left the factory.
If I get my bearings done by a workshop, I never know how they were done, so I trust they are OK. So far I've not been disappointed.
As far as cost is concerned, it's not a quick job, so you'll have to pay the hourly rate plus grease, and maybe even new bearings. But then, like me, you'll not be worrying about your wheels falling off as you travel.
-- Edited by KevinC on Saturday 3rd of March 2018 07:06:34 AM
Ron-D said
08:58 AM Mar 3, 2018
Same process here as Kevin,but after I have racked up a lot of Ks ,even if they look like there in good shape I will replace replace them with new ones,there not expensive...
Aus-Kiwi said
09:57 AM Mar 3, 2018
I try to replace then go for a few short trips . Just in case they donât bed in properly . Donât always replace grease if itâs clean . Just add a bit more and assemble .
aussie_paul said
11:38 AM Mar 3, 2018
It is a fine line between "if it ain't broke don't touch it" and "preventive maintenance"
Ausssie Paul.
swamp said
12:01 PM Mar 3, 2018
Hi
No fine line here !!
If u donot use your van a lot do every 2-3 yrs
All else
20,000km on black top
every 10,000km offroad
every time u go thru axle deep water eg b4/after trip
Bearings with slight preload last a lot longer than ones with play .
boab said
01:33 PM Mar 3, 2018
how often does the average person check there wheel bearings in there car, most vans dont do any where near as many kls as there tug with my van if they got hot i would check them if not just a squirt of oil in the dust cover keeps the grease pliable and doing its job the bearings in my van have been there for at least 6 or 7 years and i see no reason to mess with them.
KevinC said
01:48 PM Mar 3, 2018
Oh, and by the way, new seals are a must whenever the hubs are removed. I know many will re-use the seals, And I too have had to in the past when in an emergency situation. But good seals are an insurance policy, so whenever you ask someone to service your wheel bearings, always ask for new seals regardless of the state of the bearings.
Aus-Kiwi said
04:38 PM Mar 3, 2018
A lot depends if youâve done water crossings nga etc .My boat trailer was checked Atleast twice a year . Car carrying trailer . Every two years. Front hubs on motor home . Two years and Check brake pads before every long trip. Including bushâs etc on shocks , suspension .
iana said
08:35 PM Mar 3, 2018
OK I can assume by the answers that no body really knows what happens to the wheels on their van when it goes in for a service. You could have nothing done and be charged a fortune.
I have to at some time soon, do a service on my van, the first after the sellers first service, brought a bearing set and found they are rather expensive, that is if you were to replace them, the bearing set came in at $61, and a seal at $16. I had a wheel off a few months ago, and noted they were Japanese bearings, so won't be replacing unless u/s.
blaze said
09:19 PM Mar 3, 2018
iana wrote:
OK I can assume by the answers that no body really knows what happens to the wheels on their van when it goes in for a service. You could have nothing done and be charged a fortune. I have to at some time soon, do a service on my van, the first after the sellers first service, brought a bearing set and found they are rather expensive, that is if you were to replace them, the bearing set came in at $61, and a seal at $16. I had a wheel off a few months ago, and noted they were Japanese bearings, so won't be replacing unless u/s.
Don't know how you assume that no body knows, I for one have worked as a mechanic doing wheel bearings amonst lot of other stuff. Other have also told of what they do
cheers
blaze
erad said
10:35 PM Mar 3, 2018
Probably a bit late to add anything to this thread, but here goes... I carry a spare (new) set of bearings (inner and outer) for my caravan in a tub of grease. The bearings are already pre-packed with the grease, so (shudder) if a bearing carks it on the road, theoretically all I have to do is to remove the wheel from the axle, get a drift (a long screwdriver) out from my toolbox and whack the dead bearing cups out. Then carefully drive the new ones in and reassemble the whole shebang and away we go (with slightly greasy hands). Well, that's the theory anyway. Carrying the spare bearing in a tub of grease is the easiest way to ensure that it doesn't start rusting, and by pre-packing it with grease, it saves both time and effort on the road, and hopefully ensures that the bearing is properly lubricated right from the start. I am not brave enough to speak too loud, lest it hear me, but thusfar the system has worked very well - because I have come prepared, such measures will not be necessary.
Brenda and Alan said
11:11 PM Mar 3, 2018
Have to strongly disagree with the statement that bearings given pre-load last longer than loose bearings. Timken type wheel bearing maximum preload is ZERO. Anything more than this will drastically reduce their service life. With the castle nuts used on caravan axles it is best to undo the nut from the zero prelod position to the closest hole for the split pin, never be tempted to nip it up to the next hole.
Alan
Warren-Pat_01 said
11:41 PM Mar 3, 2018
Car (4WD) bearings are generally done each 40-60,000kms.
With some modern cars eg, Ford Falcon, Pajero the hubs & bearings are sealed for life - you replace the whole hub. How long they last for depends on the driver & where the car goes but they can last 150,00kms. They are rather expensive at $1500 for each hub.
I do my van at 10,000kms - also changing the seal - not like some Jayco dealerships. It's definitely cheaper insurance than what happened a few years ago.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:17 AM Mar 4, 2018
$60 for double race Falcon bearing . The older Falcon , Holden type with roller bearing each side . As used in most vans etc . I tighten then back off 1/2 a turn . Over 40 odd years never had issues . I carry spares . Strange thing is they have been used to help others on the road . In most cases just fitting bearing race . Not the cone . Yet got the person going enough to get van fixed at next service centre . In this case abadded gear oil in cap to make sure bearing is well lubed !! Hey it worked !! Btw last time was on Stuart highway north of Copper Pedy . A good 800ks . Lucky .
swamp said
10:48 AM Mar 4, 2018
Hi ALL tapered rollers had preload . No vehicle manufacturer recommends movement . Actual spec of preload differs . Sometimes there is only minimal preload . Technically lube bearings with oil and tension with a torque to turn gauge . . Once preload is established then grease bearings . Preload applies to diff pinions and carrier bearings ,front wheel drive bearing hubs [older units ] , gearbox bearings etc etc etc How preload is achieved with std. wheel bearings is with adjusting tool/shifter [depending on hub nut ]. Low tech . At wheel alignments wheel bearing play is not tolerated .
Brenda And Alan Your description tells me u preload tighten up once installed stationary . Just crank to the next hole ..doh Preload is the whole process of how u adjust wheel bearings properly ,tighten and backoff and repeat while turning hub . The preload is when u leave it adjusted on the light tightening stroke whilist moving hub. You need to feel/hear for cage movement and feel drag. There is a sweet spot b4 u get to bearing cage noise . A well packed bearing set will give a choice of 1-2 holes in the castle nut . If u cannot make the 2nd go to the first .
Wheel bearing adjustment is not hard but experience does help a lot . Especially when the wheel/hub cannot be rotated ,mainly in industrial situations . U need to have a ''feel'' for tension .
Rechecking wheel bearing tension is not a bad idea but adjusted ""correctly"" its NOT required .
In many vans the castle nut is tight on rough threads . . Castle nut need to be able to be moved by 1 finger. If not these spindle threads need to be thread filed.
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 10:53:13 AM
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 11:06:19 AM
Brenda and Alan said
10:51 PM Mar 4, 2018
Swam
Have a look at timken or similar manufacturers' web sites and you will find the the axle bearing used on most caravan axles have a maximum recommended preload of zero. I have been doing wheel bearing for many years (over 50 ) and have yet to have on fail in service, this includes trucks and 4X4 vehicles with service lives in excess of 500,000 Kms. I will continue to run mine with no pre-load.
Alan
Aus-Kiwi said
07:49 AM Mar 5, 2018
Earlier disk brake hubs expand with heat . The tapper self centres the hub . There is a mile difference between correct and lose bearing . Torque method is fine . Follow manufacturers or bearing supplied instructions !! Most donât have torque wrench .
Greg 1 said
01:38 PM May 18, 2018
Further to this subject,
1. Cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to bearings. I have seen mechanics handling new bearings with crap all over their hands, and you know that bearing is going to have a very short service life.
2. Never wash a bearing and blow it out with compressed air allowing it to spin. Fastest way to cause brindling of the rollers running a dry bearing around with air. Will cause the bearing to fail much earlier that it should. You would not believe the number of mechanics I have had to pull up on this one.
3. Standard method with taper wheel bearings is to just nip the nut up, turn the wheel a couple of times to settle bearing, and back nut off one castelation. This method works without the need of a torque wrench and in 40 odd years I have not had a bearing fail or come loose using this method.
Just curious, during services you may have had done, what happens to the wheel bearings, and for what price?
www.candm.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php
But you need to logon to see the photos.
Re The Phrase " Finger Tight" for bearing adjustment, my finger tight is not tight as I get some slight wheel rock when moving the outside edges of the van tyre, so tighten up a wisker.
Appreciate to tight, can cause Bearing failure issues when the bearing gets hot.
Peter
Just curious. Do you know?
inspect wheel bearings is inspect and report
Repack wheel bearings is changing grease and change bearings if worn out optional .
cheers
blaze
When I do mine I remove the bearings, just the roller part (cones) not the cups, and wash them out with diesel so they're clean and then examine them for any signs of discolouration or pitting on the rollers themselves. Provided they're OK, I look at the cups, the bits in the hub that the bearings sit in, and make sure they're also smooth. If everything is new looking I reassemble with some new grease squeezed through the bearings and lightly packed around. I don't fill the whole cavity with grease, nor do I use bearing buddies like you might on a boat trailer.
If one of the bearings is showing signs of wear, I replace the lot, cups and cones on all wheels, so they're all the same age. Just a bit anal I suppose.
So when I'm finished, I believe the bearings are as good as when it left the factory.
If I get my bearings done by a workshop, I never know how they were done, so I trust they are OK. So far I've not been disappointed.
As far as cost is concerned, it's not a quick job, so you'll have to pay the hourly rate plus grease, and maybe even new bearings. But then, like me, you'll not be worrying about your wheels falling off as you travel.
-- Edited by KevinC on Saturday 3rd of March 2018 07:06:34 AM
Same process here as Kevin,but after I have racked up a lot of Ks ,even if they look like there in good shape I will replace replace them with new ones,there not expensive...
It is a fine line between "if it ain't broke don't touch it" and "preventive maintenance"
Ausssie Paul.
No fine line here !!
If u donot use your van a lot do every 2-3 yrs
All else
20,000km on black top
every 10,000km offroad
every time u go thru axle deep water eg b4/after trip
Bearings with slight preload last a lot longer than ones with play .
I have to at some time soon, do a service on my van, the first after the sellers first service, brought a bearing set and found they are rather expensive, that is if you were to replace them, the bearing set came in at $61, and a seal at $16. I had a wheel off a few months ago, and noted they were Japanese bearings, so won't be replacing unless u/s.
Don't know how you assume that no body knows, I for one have worked as a mechanic doing wheel bearings amonst lot of other stuff. Other have also told of what they do
cheers
blaze
Have to strongly disagree with the statement that bearings given pre-load last longer than loose bearings. Timken type wheel bearing maximum preload is ZERO. Anything more than this will drastically reduce their service life. With the castle nuts used on caravan axles it is best to undo the nut from the zero prelod position to the closest hole for the split pin, never be tempted to nip it up to the next hole.
Alan
With some modern cars eg, Ford Falcon, Pajero the hubs & bearings are sealed for life - you replace the whole hub. How long they last for depends on the driver & where the car goes but they can last 150,00kms. They are rather expensive at $1500 for each hub.
I do my van at 10,000kms - also changing the seal - not like some Jayco dealerships. It's definitely cheaper insurance than what happened a few years ago.
Hi
ALL tapered rollers had preload . No vehicle manufacturer recommends movement . Actual spec of preload differs . Sometimes there is only minimal preload .
Technically lube bearings with oil and tension with a torque to turn gauge . . Once preload is established then grease bearings .
Preload applies to diff pinions and carrier bearings ,front wheel drive bearing hubs [older units ] , gearbox bearings etc etc etc
How preload is achieved with std. wheel bearings is with adjusting tool/shifter [depending on hub nut ]. Low tech .
At wheel alignments wheel bearing play is not tolerated .
Brenda And Alan
Your description tells me u preload tighten up once installed stationary . Just crank to the next hole ..doh
Preload is the whole process of how u adjust wheel bearings properly ,tighten and backoff and repeat while turning hub . The preload is when u leave it adjusted on the light tightening stroke whilist moving hub. You need to feel/hear for cage movement and feel drag. There is a sweet spot b4 u get to bearing cage noise . A well packed bearing set will give a choice of 1-2 holes in the castle nut . If u cannot make the 2nd go to the first .
Wheel bearing adjustment is not hard but experience does help a lot . Especially when the wheel/hub cannot be rotated ,mainly in industrial situations . U need to have a ''feel'' for tension .
Rechecking wheel bearing tension is not a bad idea but adjusted ""correctly"" its NOT required .
In many vans the castle nut is tight on rough threads . . Castle nut need to be able to be moved by 1 finger. If not these spindle threads need to be thread filed.
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 10:53:13 AM
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 4th of March 2018 11:06:19 AM
Swam
Have a look at timken or similar manufacturers' web sites and you will find the the axle bearing used on most caravan axles have a maximum recommended preload of zero. I have been doing wheel bearing for many years (over 50 ) and have yet to have on fail in service, this includes trucks and 4X4 vehicles with service lives in excess of 500,000 Kms. I will continue to run mine with no pre-load.
Alan