Hi all I am now running in our new Ford Everest Ambiente 4x4 and I see in the book that it says to remove the anti-rattle bolt from under the tow bar when towing. This is new to me because when I towed with my Hyundai Santa Fe I thought it had to be left in and tightened.
Our single axle fiberglass Karakampa when fully loaded (close to 1.7 Tonne tare) has a ball weight of about 130 -140kg (I know it is not 10% but that is how they design them). It towed very well behind out Santa Fe and we didnt use WDH as Hyundai didnt recommend them.
I have done a Google and from what others have said the bolt definitely must be undone/removed when towing. I accept that though it is new to me and I did think the bolt on the Everest was smaller than the one on the Santa Fe.
I took the 6x4 box trailer to the dump with a load of weeds with our Everest and with the anti-rattle bolt out as they say to. There was quite a rattle and I am wondering how I will go when I hitch the caravan on. I am wondering how others are going and what they are doing and are they putting grease on the square tube/tow hitch as it will be moving, some are saying they slip shims in the square tube. Does anyone have any other ideas? I will find out when I get another 200km on the clock and try towing I guess if I were to get some torsion bars (WDH) they would hold things stiff and stop rattling but our little van tows well without them and with the heavier and more grunty Everest it should be a fly weight.
Thanks in advance for any input.
-- Edited by sandman55 on Sunday 10th of June 2018 08:58:53 PM
Kebbin said
09:06 PM Jun 10, 2018
It's there to stop the hitch rattling when there is no weight on it, so you do not tighten when hooked up just back it off and tighten lock nut.
thomas01 said
09:11 PM Jun 10, 2018
Hi Sandman,
My understanding of the anti-rattle bolt is that it should only be tightened when not towing. This stops the tongue from rattling when there is no downward load on it.
It is possible that your trailer, although loaded with weeds, had a very low tow-ball weight which caused the tongue to move around a lot in the tube causing the rattle. If you were easily able to lift the trailer on and off the towball without needing a jockey wheel then the towball weight was probably not enough to stop it from rattling. 100+kg on the towball when the van is attached should keep it a lot quieter.
Tightening the anti-rattle bolt when towing will only wear away the end of the bolt and wear a hole in the tongue.
Robert.
KevinC said
10:15 PM Jun 10, 2018
I must drive very smoothly, because I've never had any hitch rattle without load. The bolt they supplied is still unused.
When I'm towing, well that's a different story.
I think there are better methods available if you're troubled by the hitch rattling.
sandman55 said
10:26 PM Jun 10, 2018
Thanks guys I accept that the anti-rattle bolt has to be not screwed against the tow hitch when towing or it can break the welds.
thomas01 yes I was able to hitch the fully loaded box trailer so hopefully what you say the ball weight of the caravan will stop it rattling. In a week when I get the K's up I will give the van a trial tow.
Do you guys put any lubrication on the square tube of the to hitch? I see it as a moving part with the bounces of the road.
patrol03 said
10:06 AM Jun 11, 2018
Hi Sandman. The best way to stop any rattle is to fit steel shim to the appropriate size. I have also seen people force in nylon wedges.All seem to do the job. A piece of cheap steel ruler worked for me.
sandman55 said
12:42 PM Jun 11, 2018
Thanks for that patrol03 I will keep that in mind after I have done my test run
swamp said
05:56 PM Jun 11, 2018
HI Look at the hitch at the front of hitch [ front of car ] anti rattle bolt then hitch pin tow ball pushes down then see saws over pin and pushes up [at front] That's why the bolt should be located at the very front of the connection pushing up
The only exception to this is a bolt at the back/top pushing down .
Either of above leave bolt tight !!!!!!!
Where`s your bolt ???
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 11th of June 2018 05:56:53 PM
sandman55 said
08:14 PM Jun 11, 2018
Hi swamp the anti-rattle bolt is on the under side to the front of the pin. We have got our kilometers up today but the weather is wet and windy so we might wait a few days till it clears and give the van a test run out on the highway and back to see what is what.
Pommylad said
11:39 PM Jun 11, 2018
Hi I drive a Ford Everest and tow a Jayco Silverrline and have never had a rattle when the van is connected. When the van is parked up I remove the tow hitch from the back of the car so it fits in my garage and also so I dont walk into it when loading the back. I dont have the ford factory hitch fitted I went for aftermarket And never have any problem.
sandman55 said
12:24 AM Jun 12, 2018
Thanks Pommylad I will find out how mine goes in a few days.
swamp said
04:38 PM Jun 12, 2018
HI
If the bolt is on the underside at the front of side of hitch pin it will never be under load .
The main issue with these is when makers put them in the wrong position and/or use a small diameter bolt ie under 10mm
Towed 15 years every day for work , bolt/ hitch has never had a problem TIGHT !!
Look in the wreckers there`s huge amounts of 4x4 with flogged out oversize hitch pin holes ,loose rattle bolts !!!
sandman55 said
07:15 PM Jun 12, 2018
Hi swamp I can see what your saying. The rattle bolt would have to have the van draw bar lifting to put weight on the bolt as in lurching. Since I started this thread I have found some (I think from memory Everest owners) say that the welds have given way and the bolt has come off. I just went out with a torch and mirror and checked mine and they are little better than tack welds which is poor. If I was the one designing the tow bar I would use a larger bolt (our Santa Fe had a larger bolt) I would tack the nut in place remove the bolt then put a decent weld all round which would shrink the nut and when it was cool I would re tap it to size. I will try it out in a couple of days and if there is any rattle or noise when I brake I might try as some have said putting a shim in the receiver but I don't want it too tight because I want to remove it when not in use.
EJP said
07:30 PM Jun 12, 2018
I have a Hayman Reece locking pin which, when fitted, secures the towball tongue to the hitch by tightening a nut fitted to the tongue securing pin which locks the tongue to the hitch. Works well. Shims can also be used if there is still any vertical movement between tongue and hitch. The locking pin fits most tongue and receiver towbars and comes with a key type lock to prevent unauthorised removal of the tongue. They are available from caravan and auto accessories shops.
Regards, EJP
Thanks guys I'm not too worried about rattle when I'm not towing because it will give me incentive to remove the shin basher though the receiver does poke out a bit to the back of the vehicle.
Hi all I am now running in our new Ford Everest Ambiente 4x4 and I see in the book that it says to remove the anti-rattle bolt from under the tow bar when towing. This is new to me because when I towed with my Hyundai Santa Fe I thought it had to be left in and tightened.
Our single axle fiberglass Karakampa when fully loaded (close to 1.7 Tonne tare) has a ball weight of about 130 -140kg (I know it is not 10% but that is how they design them). It towed very well behind out Santa Fe and we didnt use WDH as Hyundai didnt recommend them.
I have done a Google and from what others have said the bolt definitely must be undone/removed when towing. I accept that though it is new to me and I did think the bolt on the Everest was smaller than the one on the Santa Fe.
I took the 6x4 box trailer to the dump with a load of weeds with our Everest and with the anti-rattle bolt out as they say to. There was quite a rattle and I am wondering how I will go when I hitch the caravan on. I am wondering how others are going and what they are doing and are they putting grease on the square tube/tow hitch as it will be moving, some are saying they slip shims in the square tube. Does anyone have any other ideas? I will find out when I get another 200km on the clock and try towing I guess if I were to get some torsion bars (WDH) they would hold things stiff and stop rattling but our little van tows well without them and with the heavier and more grunty Everest it should be a fly weight.
Thanks in advance for any input.
-- Edited by sandman55 on Sunday 10th of June 2018 08:58:53 PM
My understanding of the anti-rattle bolt is that it should only be tightened when not towing. This stops the tongue from rattling when there is no downward load on it.
It is possible that your trailer, although loaded with weeds, had a very low tow-ball weight which caused the tongue to move around a lot in the tube causing the rattle. If you were easily able to lift the trailer on and off the towball without needing a jockey wheel then the towball weight was probably not enough to stop it from rattling. 100+kg on the towball when the van is attached should keep it a lot quieter.
Tightening the anti-rattle bolt when towing will only wear away the end of the bolt and wear a hole in the tongue.
Robert.
When I'm towing, well that's a different story.
I think there are better methods available if you're troubled by the hitch rattling.
Thanks guys I accept that the anti-rattle bolt has to be not screwed against the tow hitch when towing or it can break the welds.
thomas01 yes I was able to hitch the fully loaded box trailer so hopefully what you say the ball weight of the caravan will stop it rattling. In a week when I get the K's up I will give the van a trial tow.
Do you guys put any lubrication on the square tube of the to hitch? I see it as a moving part with the bounces of the road.
Thanks for that patrol03 I will keep that in mind after I have done my test run
HI
Look at the hitch
at the front of hitch [ front of car ] anti rattle bolt
then hitch pin
tow ball pushes down then see saws over pin and pushes up [at front]
That's why the bolt should be located at the very front of the connection pushing up
The only exception to this is a bolt at the back/top pushing down .
Either of above leave bolt tight !!!!!!!
Where`s your bolt ???
-- Edited by swamp on Monday 11th of June 2018 05:56:53 PM
Hi swamp the anti-rattle bolt is on the under side to the front of the pin. We have got our kilometers up today but the weather is wet and windy so we might wait a few days till it clears and give the van a test run out on the highway and back to see what is what.
Hi I drive a Ford Everest and tow a Jayco Silverrline and have never had a rattle when the van is connected. When the van is parked up I remove the tow hitch from the back of the car so it fits in my garage and also so I dont walk into it when loading the back. I dont have the ford factory hitch fitted I went for aftermarket And never have any problem.
Thanks Pommylad I will find out how mine goes in a few days.
If the bolt is on the underside at the front of side of hitch pin it will never be under load .
The main issue with these is when makers put them in the wrong position and/or use a small diameter bolt ie under 10mm
Towed 15 years every day for work , bolt/ hitch has never had a problem TIGHT !!
Look in the wreckers there`s huge amounts of 4x4 with flogged out oversize hitch pin holes ,loose rattle bolts !!!
Hi swamp I can see what your saying. The rattle bolt would have to have the van draw bar lifting to put weight on the bolt as in lurching. Since I started this thread I have found some (I think from memory Everest owners) say that the welds have given way and the bolt has come off. I just went out with a torch and mirror and checked mine and they are little better than tack welds which is poor. If I was the one designing the tow bar I would use a larger bolt (our Santa Fe had a larger bolt) I would tack the nut in place remove the bolt then put a decent weld all round which would shrink the nut and when it was cool I would re tap it to size. I will try it out in a couple of days and if there is any rattle or noise when I brake I might try as some have said putting a shim in the receiver but I don't want it too tight because I want to remove it when not in use.
Regards, EJP
Gday...
Some info that may be helpful praps - http://www.boroniatowbars.com.au/FAQ.html
Cheers - John
Thanks guys I'm not too worried about rattle when I'm not towing because it will give me incentive to remove the shin basher though the receiver does poke out a bit to the back of the vehicle.