Don't enjoy having to get down to change the tank selector over - usually a tank will run out at night! Jayco have the selector under the van usually on the main beam of the chassis, while Coromal have the valves inside on the floor in a cupboard.
Has anyone else replaced their tank selector with a better system?
My solution was to put in 2 solenoids on my Coromal, but have sold it and wondering if there is a more efficient solution. My problem was there was a slight battery drain if you left them switched on, as I had wired them via an electrical A/B selector. Just need some ideas how to only have the solenoid only switched on while the pump is running - ideas?
With mine a tap is turned on and the pump power from the pump side of the pressure switch also powers each/both solenoids I have selected. No unnecessary current drain.
Aussie Paul.
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Wednesday 27th of June 2018 09:05:28 PM
Delta18 said
09:14 PM Jun 27, 2018
I fitted one of these to each of my 3 80L tanks https://www.topargee.com.au/motorised-valves.html
I also have one of these gauges for each tank, https://www.topargee.com.au/store/p2/H2F-SM_Water_Tank_Gauge.html
This allows me to know to the litre how much water I have in any tank and can switch tanks from in the van.
The valves ONLY draw current when actually switching, once open they stop drawing current.
I have them wired so when a tap is turned on the valve opens and shutting the tap off the valve closes stopping bleed-back to the tank which can lead to air in the system & spitting when tap is opened.
aussie_paul said
09:29 PM Jun 27, 2018
Delta18 wrote:
I fitted one of these to each of my 3 80L tanks https://www.topargee.com.au/motorised-valves.html
I also have one of these gauges for each tank, https://www.topargee.com.au/store/p2/H2F-SM_Water_Tank_Gauge.html
This allows me to know to the litre how much water I have in any tank and can switch tanks from in the van.
The valves ONLY draw current when actually switching, once open they stop drawing current.
I have them wired so when a tap is turned on the valve opens and shutting the tap off the valve closes stopping bleed-back to the tank which can lead to air in the system & spitting when tap is opened.
Excellent Delta18, I looked at those type of systems, but way too expensive for me I'm afraid.
Aussie Paul.
Treecrest said
06:23 PM Jun 28, 2018
Thanks for the ideas Paul, although I don't understand the power bit as my pump has only 2 wires - a photo & explanation would be appreciated.
Glen
Delta18 said
06:36 PM Jun 28, 2018
aussie_paul wrote:
Delta18 wrote:
I fitted one of these to each of my 3 80L tanks https://www.topargee.com.au/motorised-valves.html
I also have one of these gauges for each tank, https://www.topargee.com.au/store/p2/H2F-SM_Water_Tank_Gauge.html
This allows me to know to the litre how much water I have in any tank and can switch tanks from in the van.
The valves ONLY draw current when actually switching, once open they stop drawing current.
I have them wired so when a tap is turned on the valve opens and shutting the tap off the valve closes stopping bleed-back to the tank which can lead to air in the system & spitting when tap is opened.
Excellent Delta18, I looked at those type of systems, but way too expensive for me I'm afraid.
Aussie Paul.
Believe me, long after you have forgotten the price you will be appreciating the convenience.
aussie_paul said
07:50 PM Jun 28, 2018
Treecrest wrote:
Thanks for the ideas Paul, although I don't understand the power bit as my pump has only 2 wires- a photo & explanation would be appreciated.
Glen
Hi Glen, those two wire are positive+ and negative- to the pump. Mine are red+ and black-. The positive wire between the pressure switch and the pump is where I attached the positive+ wire to go to the tank selector solenoid switches. All negative wires are in common to the battery negative post as is usual I believe. I will see what I have saved in pics and take some for you if not.
Aussie Paul.
Treecrest said
10:19 AM Jun 29, 2018
I will have a closer look at the current pump as the van I previously had, there was no visible wires except the red and black going into the pump. But now I understand what to look for, I might have to remove a cover?
Treecrest said
01:11 PM Jul 12, 2018
Yep - found the red (+) wire from pressure switch to ump, spliced in the tank selector switch and all good. Only issue was the water input non return valve fails and water is spurting out when pumping from tanks! Will remove inards of the fitting and insert a JG non return valve in the inlet pipe.
Thanks
Glen
aussie_paul said
02:32 PM Jul 12, 2018
Treecrest wrote:
Yep - found the red (+) wire from pressure switch to ump, spliced in the tank selector switch and all good. Only issue was the water input non return valve fails and water is spurting out when pumping from tanks! Will remove inards of the fitting and insert a JG non return valve in the inlet pipe.
Don't enjoy having to get down to change the tank selector over - usually a tank will run out at night! Jayco have the selector under the van usually on the main beam of the chassis, while Coromal have the valves inside on the floor in a cupboard.
Has anyone else replaced their tank selector with a better system?
My solution was to put in 2 solenoids on my Coromal, but have sold it and wondering if there is a more efficient solution. My problem was there was a slight battery drain if you left them switched on, as I had wired them via an electrical A/B selector. Just need some ideas how to only have the solenoid only switched on while the pump is running - ideas?
http://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t64129753/water-tank-swappingchanging-remotely/
I did mine earlier in the year Treecrest.
With mine a tap is turned on and the pump power from the pump side of the pressure switch also powers each/both solenoids I have selected. No unnecessary current drain.
Aussie Paul.
-- Edited by aussie_paul on Wednesday 27th of June 2018 09:05:28 PM
I fitted one of these to each of my 3 80L tanks https://www.topargee.com.au/motorised-valves.html
I also have one of these gauges for each tank, https://www.topargee.com.au/store/p2/H2F-SM_Water_Tank_Gauge.html
This allows me to know to the litre how much water I have in any tank and can switch tanks from in the van.
The valves ONLY draw current when actually switching, once open they stop drawing current.
I have them wired so when a tap is turned on the valve opens and shutting the tap off the valve closes stopping bleed-back to the tank which can lead to air in the system & spitting when tap is opened.
Excellent Delta18, I looked at those type of systems, but way too expensive for me I'm afraid.
Aussie Paul.
Thanks for the ideas Paul, although I don't understand the power bit as my pump has only 2 wires - a photo & explanation would be appreciated.
Glen
Believe me, long after you have forgotten the price you will be appreciating the convenience.
Hi Glen, those two wire are positive+ and negative- to the pump. Mine are red+ and black-. The positive wire between the pressure switch and the pump is where I attached the positive+ wire to go to the tank selector solenoid switches. All negative wires are in common to the battery negative post as is usual I believe. I will see what I have saved in pics and take some for you if not.
Aussie Paul.
Yep - found the red (+) wire from pressure switch to ump, spliced in the tank selector switch and all good. Only issue was the water input non return valve fails and water is spurting out when pumping from tanks! Will remove inards of the fitting and insert a JG non return valve in the inlet pipe.
Thanks
Glen
Aussie Paul.