Caravan dealer is fitting a towbar, solar panels - Need advice
Petesahut said
06:25 PM Aug 11, 2018
We have put down a deposit for a used caravan pop top, an Olympic Fulcher Pop Top. I needed to upgrade the towbar from its existing 16KG to a 2300 KG.
The vehicle is a Ford Territory 2012 SZ diesel.
We struck a deal where the dealer offered to install the bar (Hayman Reece) and brake controller as well as two batteries and a roof-mounted solar panel (125w). The van has a 24/12 volt system already, I asked if it would be wired to charge the batteries while we are driving, he assured me it would. The price sounded reasonable but I know next to nothing about solar panels.
What kind of questions should be asking in this situation? The brake controller, I have no idea which controller he is going to fit and how much they normally cost, I have heard they can cost somewhere in the area of $600 + ?
In reference to the panels and batteries, again I have not the time to do any research as yet so I am relying on the good and experienced folk in the forum.
So in summary, what kind of questions should I be asking about the brake controller; solar panel and batteries?
Pete
-- Edited by Petesahut on Saturday 11th of August 2018 10:47:03 PM
swamp said
10:16 AM Aug 12, 2018
HI solar 125 is very entry level basic basic
Ideally 2x 125--150 watts panels on roof
Optional ,,Portable panel, Anderson connector on draw bar wired to solar controller
Solar watts to battery aH is every 100-120ah battery = 160-200watts solar // any less watts will give low performance //many operate with more watts per ah
Have an solar controller 25-- 30 amp as a bonus these come with a dc/dc charger [car charger to charge van batts ] Brands Projecta IDC25 250$ Enerdrive DC/dc 450$
Have 25mmsq cable feeding from front of car with a 120amp Anderson to connect to dc to dc charger in van
Ritar good average batteries ,there are possibly better but at a higher price .
Brake controllers Teknoshia Podigy or P3 Redarc
The boring part Electrical system protection LOW VOLT DISCONNECT --set at 12,oov //50% capacity protects batts from over discharge installed on batt positive post Isolator on/off protects from over discharge in storage [installed in neg batt cable ] even solar controllers can draw power when off gradually flattening batts
It is expensive to upgrade solar later
eg different panel positions on van roof and wiring may need up sizing .= costly
Specify a good system to start with WILL save u money
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 12th of August 2018 10:27:30 AM
Dougwe said
12:26 PM Aug 12, 2018
Another thing to keep in mind with all the additives, make sure you don't go over the vans ATM. Every item added adds weight.
Just something to keep in mind.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there.
Possum3 said
04:31 PM Aug 12, 2018
Contact Colin Young at Caravan Council of Australia and get reliable information www.caravancouncil.com.au/
Petesahut said
07:22 AM Aug 14, 2018
Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, the information has been very helpful.
We have put down a deposit for a used caravan pop top, an Olympic Fulcher Pop Top. I needed to upgrade the towbar from its existing 16KG to a 2300 KG.
The vehicle is a Ford Territory 2012 SZ diesel.
We struck a deal where the dealer offered to install the bar (Hayman Reece) and brake controller as well as two batteries and a roof-mounted solar panel (125w). The van has a 24/12 volt system already, I asked if it would be wired to charge the batteries while we are driving, he assured me it would. The price sounded reasonable but I know next to nothing about solar panels.
What kind of questions should be asking in this situation? The brake controller, I have no idea which controller he is going to fit and how much they normally cost, I have heard they can cost somewhere in the area of $600 + ?
In reference to the panels and batteries, again I have not the time to do any research as yet so I am relying on the good and experienced folk in the forum.
So in summary, what kind of questions should I be asking about the brake controller; solar panel and batteries?
Pete
-- Edited by Petesahut on Saturday 11th of August 2018 10:47:03 PM
HI
solar 125 is very entry level basic basic
Ideally 2x 125--150 watts panels on roof
Optional ,,Portable panel, Anderson connector on draw bar wired to solar controller
Solar watts to battery aH is
every 100-120ah battery = 160-200watts solar // any less watts will give low performance //many operate with more watts per ah
Have an solar controller 25-- 30 amp as a bonus these come with a dc/dc charger [car charger to charge van batts ]
Brands
Projecta IDC25 250$
Enerdrive DC/dc 450$
Have 25mmsq cable feeding from front of car with a 120amp Anderson to connect to dc to dc charger in van
Ritar good average batteries ,there are possibly better but at a higher price .
Brake controllers
Teknoshia Podigy or P3
Redarc
The boring part
Electrical system protection
LOW VOLT DISCONNECT --set at 12,oov //50% capacity protects batts from over discharge installed on batt positive post
Isolator on/off protects from over discharge in storage [installed in neg batt cable ] even solar controllers can draw power when off gradually flattening batts
It is expensive to upgrade solar later
eg different panel positions on van roof and wiring may need up sizing .= costly
Specify a good system to start with WILL save u money
-- Edited by swamp on Sunday 12th of August 2018 10:27:30 AM
Just something to keep in mind.
Keep Safe on the roads and out there.