Just bought this off my cousin. Does anyone run a charger from this? What size?
I just want to use it to charge my 100amp agm battery.
What is the biggest charger I can use? Can the 6amp battery dc charger output be used? Is there a voltage cut off unit I can buy to prevent overloading?
Thanks
Tony
DeBe said
09:31 PM Sep 21, 2018
Reasearch shows these generators are only300VA-240Watt continuous, also Square wave out put NOT sinewave. Be wary using a charger of this unit.
Eaglemax said
10:28 PM Sep 21, 2018
Cheers
Peter_n_Margaret said
01:20 PM Sep 22, 2018
A decent pair of jumper leads (as short as possible) from the vehicle crank battery whist running at a fast idle will charge much faster, quieter and with less pollution than that 2 stroke generator.
Cheers,
Peter
DeBe said
04:21 PM Sep 22, 2018
Hardly think a 2 stroke using 100-1 is mutch pollution. I still use a Seagull outboard 10-1 oil mix.
Peter_n_Margaret said
04:55 PM Sep 22, 2018
DeBe wrote:
Hardly think a 2 stroke using 100-1 is mutch pollution. I still use a Seagull outboard 10-1 oil mix.
About 10X a modern car, from memory.
Their sale (new 2 strokes) is banned from next year.
Cheers,
Peter
Mike Harding said
05:48 PM Sep 22, 2018
Peter_n_Margaret wrote:Their sale (new 2 strokes) is banned from next year.
*All* two-strokes? In all of Oz?
I foresee all sorts of unforeseen consequences.
Jaahn said
05:57 PM Sep 22, 2018
Eaglemax wrote:
Just bought this off my cousin. Does anyone run a charger from this? What size?
I just want to use it to charge my 100amp agm battery.
What is the biggest charger I can use? Can the 6amp battery dc charger output be used? Is there a voltage cut off unit I can buy to prevent overloading?
Thanks Tony
Hi Tony
To answer your question as best I can, without getting into other subjects! That unit puts out about 300W continuous as said. I do not know if it has square wave output, but I believe it will be just a rough sine wave from the windings direct with some control spikes. That should run an old style charger OK. The new fancy electronic ones may or may not like it. Who knows ?
But if we assume an efficiency of 50-60% output of a battery charger that would give around 10-12 A @ 15V max. The other 6A DC 'charger' output is not any good for charging batteries and will never bring them near fully charged. It can be used for 12V appliances direct. Often you are not allowed to use both at the same time either or only at reduced loadings.
These are primitive cheap units that will need 'manual' supervision to prevent overloading I think. I used to carry a similar small one for super emergency use, as we went out in the bush a bit in our MH. But I now have a super jump starter instead. Never had to use either on my vehicle but have started quite a few others. My solar is wired to charge my vehicle battery too.
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Saturday 22nd of September 2018 06:10:11 PM
Eaglemax said
07:36 PM Sep 22, 2018
Honda changed I ts recommendation of fuel mix from 50:1 to 100:1. This was due to carbon build up in the exhaust port
https://youtu.be/9BCBclAWVNo
Revently I installed a solonoid and fuse in the tug engine bay. In hindsight yes, I could charge the agm from the tug. Thanks Peter
I have an old style charger Projecta 2700ma with trickle feature. It works on this genny well. I think I'm best to invest in a 15-20amp similar type charger for the genny and caravan parks.
Tony
Eaglemax said
08:14 PM Sep 22, 2018
I think a dc-dc charger is the go
Jaahn said
07:52 AM Sep 23, 2018
Hi Tony
If you drive most days then charging from the tug makes sense. It has the biggest charger of all. It can also charge when not driving as Peter said. Basically I do that and the solar tops it up when stopped. I have a MH so it is a little easier to do and I have a VSR to do the switching with a big cable to the house battery.
But IMHO the need for a DC-DC charger is set by your alternator type, or the alternator regulator control. If it has a new smart alternator which reduces the voltage to less than the battery needs for charging then you need the DC-DC charger. This will also compensate for voltage drop in long cables if fitted correctly.
If you have an old style alternator, like your Commodore motor perhaps, you may be able to use a VSR with good cables and connector which can work OK. The devil is in the details really. Or you could use the jump leads when necessary when the battery needs a topup and a 240V charger when staying in caravan parks. Or all these.
Whatever you do, you do need a battery meter to monitor the state of charge. And you need to get some experience in knowing what is the battery state of charge.
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Sunday 23rd of September 2018 08:00:18 AM
Just bought this off my cousin. Does anyone run a charger from this? What size?
I just want to use it to charge my 100amp agm battery.
What is the biggest charger I can use? Can the 6amp battery dc charger output be used? Is there a voltage cut off unit I can buy to prevent overloading?
Thanks
Tony
Cheers,
Peter
About 10X a modern car, from memory.
Their sale (new 2 strokes) is banned from next year.
Cheers,
Peter
*All* two-strokes? In all of Oz?
I foresee all sorts of unforeseen consequences.
Hi Tony
To answer your question as best I can, without getting into other subjects! That unit puts out about 300W continuous as said. I do not know if it has square wave output, but I believe it will be just a rough sine wave from the windings direct with some control spikes. That should run an old style charger OK. The new fancy electronic ones may or may not like it. Who knows ?
But if we assume an efficiency of 50-60% output of a battery charger that would give around 10-12 A @ 15V max. The other 6A DC 'charger' output is not any good for charging batteries and will never bring them near fully charged. It can be used for 12V appliances direct. Often you are not allowed to use both at the same time either or only at reduced loadings.
These are primitive cheap units that will need 'manual' supervision to prevent overloading I think. I used to carry a similar small one for super emergency use, as we went out in the bush a bit in our MH. But I now have a super jump starter instead. Never had to use either on my vehicle but have started quite a few others. My solar is wired to charge my vehicle battery too.
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Saturday 22nd of September 2018 06:10:11 PM
Honda changed I ts recommendation of fuel mix from 50:1 to 100:1. This was due to carbon build up in the exhaust port
https://youtu.be/9BCBclAWVNo
Revently I installed a solonoid and fuse in the tug engine bay. In hindsight yes, I could charge the agm from the tug. Thanks Peter
I have an old style charger Projecta 2700ma with trickle feature. It works on this genny well. I think I'm best to invest in a 15-20amp similar type charger for the genny and caravan parks.
Tony
Hi Tony
If you drive most days then charging from the tug makes sense. It has the biggest charger of all. It can also charge when not driving as Peter said. Basically I do that and the solar tops it up when stopped. I have a MH so it is a little easier to do and I have a VSR to do the switching with a big cable to the house battery.
But IMHO the need for a DC-DC charger is set by your alternator type, or the alternator regulator control. If it has a new smart alternator which reduces the voltage to less than the battery needs for charging then you need the DC-DC charger. This will also compensate for voltage drop in long cables if fitted correctly.
If you have an old style alternator, like your Commodore motor perhaps, you may be able to use a VSR with good cables and connector which can work OK. The devil is in the details really. Or you could use the jump leads when necessary when the battery needs a topup and a 240V charger when staying in caravan parks. Or all these.
Whatever you do, you do need a battery meter to monitor the state of charge. And you need to get some experience in knowing what is the battery state of charge.
Jaahn
-- Edited by Jaahn on Sunday 23rd of September 2018 08:00:18 AM