A common problem with oil seals is they go hard and ware a grove in the shaft. If the grove is worn too deep they will still seep oil after the seal has been replaced.

Replacement seals used to have the sealing lip offset to miss the worn part of the shaft, may not be the norm these days but if you get it changed talk to the people at a bearing service to see what is available. Service people will only put it an original seal. A speedy sleeve can be fitted to the crank end also. Also make sure the seal is a high temperature one. Maybe a oil stopleak additive is worth a try

A speedy sleeve fitted to the shaft and trimmed to length will usually solve the problem and you can still use the standard size seal. Speedy seals come in numerous sizes and used for axle and hub bearing fitting and shaft sealing including worn harmonic balancer seal faces. You just need to be able to measure the offending shaft diameter accurately.

Either way it looks like I am up for another 8 hours labour at least?

I would try better or improving cankcase ventilation first ? It may have a little blowby Pushing oil through seal ?

Thanks for all your replies. As I do not have the mechanical knowledge to try any of these solutions looks like I will be at the mercy of a repair shop.

sounds like the job wasn't done right the first time. I would speak to the orinal mechanic. warranty in my mind. ex mechanic.
cheers
blaze

HI
speedi sleeve if there is a groove
Hi temp seal --use a genuine
Correctly Tension flywheel in a criss cross fashion . failure to do this can distort seal surface .

Is the breathing system --PCV working correctly
Is the breather baffle inside rocker cover correct excess oil usage results and an increase in crankcase pressure can happen

Engine condition compression test
Leak down test
Both the above check for blowby into crank case . Excessive blowby comes out oil seals .