I picked up a cheap throttle controller off ebay ~$100 and have seem them as low as around 80.
It's the Eittar 9S model
A mate has both the idrive and the cheaper original kings and speaks highly off them both .
He has said the idrive has more options but if you just want the increase in throttle sensitivity they both do a similar job.
With that info in hand I figured I'd roll the dice on a one similarly priced to the kings, since they didn't have them available since the first launch and feedback seemed to be good.
They have released another unit after I got this one but it seems to need a phone connection to control and I didn't like that.
I'd prefer one with a controller on dash .
This one is tiny.
here it is compared to a AA battery
Connection is made like all others, via an inline plug that connects between the throttle and the original cable.
This is what it looks like out of the box and what is included. Not much, but all you need I guess.
Connection is a piece of cake and installation even easier.
Since I lent it to a friend to test in his triton, I got used to reaching up and connecting/disconnecting without the need to physically see what i was going. All by feel.
Although, I'm a bit nifty on unclasping bras (skill for life) in the dark too....just sayin.
This image is in the Pajero NT and you can see how it connects
The circles are the 2 connectors.
The top one goes to the original cable and the 2nd is fitted into the original socket.
The arrow points down to the accelerator peddle for reference.
It couldn't be easier.
When you install it and take it for its first run, you notice immediately how much more responsive the vehicle is to throttle inputs.
No, it does not remove turbo lag but I can tell you it certainly does improve things when the boost comes up.
With the Paj, I've nearly got caught out a few times rolling up to a round about and trying to make a small gap.
Hitting the loud pedal expecting to shoot the hole but ending up watching the car getting closer and not being able to do anything about it until it spooled up.
It wasn't so much of an issue with the controller fitted but still warranted caution.
There mostly seems to be 2 schools of thought on these, with a few exceptions.
Those who have tried them and speak positively of them and those who have not and will share their opinion as to WHY they can't work.
Now whilst I have tried one, I'm not entirely wrapped but that is because of THIS specific unit.
Yet overall, I must say I am a convert to the whole scenario and will be purchasing another ....maybe the idrive.
The reason this unit was not suitable (received an ebay refund because of it) is because at low speeds and exaggerated in Low range, the thing lurches like a bastard.
I've tried everything to control the input to the pedal but nothing makes any difference. My friend who tested it on his triton reported the same issue.
It all but becomes dangerous navigating car parks where slow speeds are required. It's also a bit embarrassing looking like a learner bunny hopping along in public.
Granted when you get a bit of speed up it makes the drive more enjoyable but for my use, I can't forfeit that control when off road for a bit of extra acceleration at speed.
I did see some improvement in towing the van, any extra power is always handy, but again at low speeds, I looked a right proper goose creeping around CPs bouncing about both the pajero and the van.
Plus backing into a spot or up the driveway was becoming a real pain in the freckle.
I'm also looking to see what fuel usage looks like now its removed.
I also have a plan to pick up a torque lock up for the Paj and will be hoping for improvements there too.
Now to how I tested it.
This is not scientific but it was the best I could do with what I had available.
To get the data, I used my OBD2 reader and the torque app and did a few runs 0-60kmh
Frankly I was a little surprised at the results.
Granted, I could have done multiple passes but getting the footage took its own time and editing it down was over 3-4 hours. So it's already a fair investment in time but I hope it's sufficient to give you an idea of what they're like.
The test involved starting at the same spot and testing in settings 1, 5, 9 and no controller.
There are 9 settings all up, with level 1 the lowest setting but still increasing sensitivity. This was the setting I used most of the time as anything higher was just to exaggerated on the bunny hop scenario.
I was hoping to have a setting to lower sensitivity like the idrive for off road but this one does not do that. It's all up and up.
For those who will say, just push the throttle harder or further, all tests involved putting the throttle FLAT to the floor.
So no, it couldn't go any further, so in theory it removes that item for debate.
Here are the settings I used in the toque app .
I detailed the max settings and time below each run.
from left to right they are 1,5,9 and no controller.
Interestingly SP1 was quickest followed by SP5 and SP9 consecutively with no controller coming in last for this test.
Boost with the controller reached up to 32PSI with no controller staying at 14.7.
So this could explain the harder acceleration.
The speed difference between the quickest controller run and no controller was 7 seconds.
I don't think there is any argument that can be made here to say they don't do anything and it's all in your head.
I hope this helps any one considering the purchase and also help you not to fall for this model I went with.
I fully expect some vigorous discussion over this one, but keeping it respectful would be nice
As always, here's the video of the tests and an example of the issues I experienced with it.
Hi Brett :)
What is the point of this again I lost track somewhere ? :(
Jaahn
Mike Harding said
10:35 AM Nov 20, 2018
In the event of an insurance claim I suspect the insurance company would take a dim view of anything which interacts with the signal between the throttle position sensor and the engine management unit.
denmonkey said
10:58 AM Nov 20, 2018
Hey Jaahn,
which bit mate ? You've not heard of the throttle controllers before ?
Mike, I sussed this out and I've seen no reports from those who have them of any issues, even when specifically looking for them.
LLD said
11:17 AM Nov 20, 2018
Throttle controllers (aka throttle lock) vs Cruise Control.
Throttle controllers are often found on motorbikes (after market), farm equipment (tractors and trucks - when working in paddocks).
Cruise control sticks to a set speed. Throttle controllers stick to a set throttle opening. I've used both over the years. Never used one on a motorbike.
Agree with Mike. As an aftermarket fitment I'd like to hear an insurance company's view.
rockylizard said
11:21 AM Nov 20, 2018
Gday...
What does a throttle module do?
The iDrive throttle control module alters the signal from your accelerator to the throttle body. This gives you a quicker response from your throttle for sharper acceleration.
I fitted a iDrive throttle control to my Dmax , I like most others thought wow at first , I played with all the different settings with the Dmax unloaded , loaded and towing my Tvan and on Vic Highcountry 4WD tracks .
I decided it just wasn't needed the Dmax throttle was just fine standard , I had it fitted for over 90k but turned off most of the time
Every now and then I would turn it on just because it was still there , it only confirmed that it really was just a waste of $$$
I no longer have the Dmax , still have the iDrive anyone want it cheap ( they are fantastic )
JackoFJR said
12:11 PM Nov 20, 2018
LLD wrote:
Throttle controllers (aka throttle lock) vs Cruise Control.
Throttle controllers are often found on motorbikes (after market), farm equipment (tractors and trucks - when working in paddocks).
Cruise control sticks to a set speed. Throttle controllers stick to a set throttle opening. I've used both over the years. Never used one on a motorbike.
Agree with Mike. As an aftermarket fitment I'd like to hear an insurance company's view.
No mate that's no how they work .
denmonkey said
07:19 PM Nov 20, 2018
LLD, these one's as with many others which are now on the market bascically make your accelerator pedal more sensitive to input.
They tend to have several settings on how much they boost that sensitivity.
Some also have the ability to be set to auto and work off your driving style or even decrease the input for off roading or the like to make the pedal more docile.
Basically, what Rock pasted up.
Thanks Jacko, That was the same downfall of this one in my mind.
Although I've been promised by a mate who has the idrive that the issues I had with this one are not evident in his Idrive.
I want one where I can reduce the input on the pedal for when I'm off road and want a finer input.
I was happy to try this one at under 100 bucks but will need to consider if I really want it at 300.
I had this one in for around 4 months or more an am currently running without it.
if those issues weren't present though, I think it would still be connected.
cheers Brett
denmonkey said
11:00 PM Nov 21, 2018
as a note it appears the abode timer used in this video is out by a factor of 2. so times shown on the video are double of the actual times. As a result the speed tests look more like this. Sp1 6 seconds Sp5 6.5 Sp9 7.1 No Controller 9.5 so the difference to 60 is about 3.5 seconds. I'll look to correct the video and upload with new figures.
-- Edited by denmonkey on Wednesday 21st of November 2018 11:01:10 PM
outlaw40 said
06:27 AM Nov 22, 2018
I put throttle controllers in the same class as hyclones .the idea behind them is to trick your brain into thinking your achieving something and lighten your wallet to improve fuel economy . The thought that anything that speeds up the micro second it takes the electric sisgnal to get from the accelerator pedal to the engine is going to make any significant difference is ridiculous ,but hey your money your choice where you spend it .
denmonkey said
09:57 AM Nov 22, 2018
I think you'll find there is built in delays to make the vehicle more 'drivable' for the average person.
Since taking it back out I can notice they sponginess of the throttle without it.
I remember those hyclone things but have never had a chance to see one in the flesh or lay hands on it.
The controller though obviously can't change your car into something it's not but it does change how the power is delivered.
No different to the 'sports' button on the dash I guess.
The results I got show they do improve the cars responsiveness, how it happens though I can't tell you.
Hi yawl,
I picked up a cheap throttle controller off ebay ~$100 and have seem them as low as around 80.
It's the Eittar 9S model
A mate has both the idrive and the cheaper original kings and speaks highly off them both .
He has said the idrive has more options but if you just want the increase in throttle sensitivity they both do a similar job.
With that info in hand I figured I'd roll the dice on a one similarly priced to the kings, since they didn't have them available since the first launch and feedback seemed to be good.
They have released another unit after I got this one but it seems to need a phone connection to control and I didn't like that.
I'd prefer one with a controller on dash .
This one is tiny.
here it is compared to a AA battery
Connection is made like all others, via an inline plug that connects between the throttle and the original cable.
This is what it looks like out of the box and what is included. Not much, but all you need I guess.
Connection is a piece of cake and installation even easier.
Since I lent it to a friend to test in his triton, I got used to reaching up and connecting/disconnecting without the need to physically see what i was going. All by feel.
Although, I'm a bit nifty on unclasping bras (skill for life) in the dark too....just sayin.
This image is in the Pajero NT and you can see how it connects
The circles are the 2 connectors.
The top one goes to the original cable and the 2nd is fitted into the original socket.
The arrow points down to the accelerator peddle for reference.
It couldn't be easier.
When you install it and take it for its first run, you notice immediately how much more responsive the vehicle is to throttle inputs.
No, it does not remove turbo lag but I can tell you it certainly does improve things when the boost comes up.
With the Paj, I've nearly got caught out a few times rolling up to a round about and trying to make a small gap.
Hitting the loud pedal expecting to shoot the hole but ending up watching the car getting closer and not being able to do anything about it until it spooled up.
It wasn't so much of an issue with the controller fitted but still warranted caution.
There mostly seems to be 2 schools of thought on these, with a few exceptions.
Those who have tried them and speak positively of them and those who have not and will share their opinion as to WHY they can't work.
Now whilst I have tried one, I'm not entirely wrapped but that is because of THIS specific unit.
Yet overall, I must say I am a convert to the whole scenario and will be purchasing another ....maybe the idrive.
The reason this unit was not suitable (received an ebay refund because of it) is because at low speeds and exaggerated in Low range, the thing lurches like a bastard.
I've tried everything to control the input to the pedal but nothing makes any difference. My friend who tested it on his triton reported the same issue.
It all but becomes dangerous navigating car parks where slow speeds are required. It's also a bit embarrassing looking like a learner bunny hopping along in public.
Granted when you get a bit of speed up it makes the drive more enjoyable but for my use, I can't forfeit that control when off road for a bit of extra acceleration at speed.
I did see some improvement in towing the van, any extra power is always handy, but again at low speeds, I looked a right proper goose creeping around CPs bouncing about both the pajero and the van.
Plus backing into a spot or up the driveway was becoming a real pain in the freckle.
I'm also looking to see what fuel usage looks like now its removed.
I also have a plan to pick up a torque lock up for the Paj and will be hoping for improvements there too.
Now to how I tested it.
This is not scientific but it was the best I could do with what I had available.
To get the data, I used my OBD2 reader and the torque app and did a few runs 0-60kmh
Frankly I was a little surprised at the results.
Granted, I could have done multiple passes but getting the footage took its own time and editing it down was over 3-4 hours. So it's already a fair investment in time but I hope it's sufficient to give you an idea of what they're like.
The test involved starting at the same spot and testing in settings 1, 5, 9 and no controller.
There are 9 settings all up, with level 1 the lowest setting but still increasing sensitivity. This was the setting I used most of the time as anything higher was just to exaggerated on the bunny hop scenario.
I was hoping to have a setting to lower sensitivity like the idrive for off road but this one does not do that. It's all up and up.
For those who will say, just push the throttle harder or further, all tests involved putting the throttle FLAT to the floor.
So no, it couldn't go any further, so in theory it removes that item for debate.
Here are the settings I used in the toque app .
I detailed the max settings and time below each run.
from left to right they are 1,5,9 and no controller.
Interestingly SP1 was quickest followed by SP5 and SP9 consecutively with no controller coming in last for this test.
Boost with the controller reached up to 32PSI with no controller staying at 14.7.
So this could explain the harder acceleration.
The speed difference between the quickest controller run and no controller was 7 seconds.
I don't think there is any argument that can be made here to say they don't do anything and it's all in your head.
I hope this helps any one considering the purchase and also help you not to fall for this model I went with.
I fully expect some vigorous discussion over this one, but keeping it respectful would be nice
As always, here's the video of the tests and an example of the issues I experienced with it.
cheers Brett
What is the point of this again I lost track somewhere ? :(
Jaahn
In the event of an insurance claim I suspect the insurance company would take a dim view of anything which interacts with the signal between the throttle position sensor and the engine management unit.
which bit mate ? You've not heard of the throttle controllers before ?
Mike, I sussed this out and I've seen no reports from those who have them of any issues, even when specifically looking for them.
Throttle controllers are often found on motorbikes (after market), farm equipment (tractors and trucks - when working in paddocks).
Cruise control sticks to a set speed. Throttle controllers stick to a set throttle opening. I've used both over the years. Never used one on a motorbike.
Agree with Mike. As an aftermarket fitment I'd like to hear an insurance company's view.
Gday...
What does a throttle module do?
The iDrive throttle control module alters the signal from your accelerator to the throttle body. This gives you a quicker response from your throttle for sharper acceleration.
https://happygotravel.com.au/idrive-throttle-control-module/
Cheers - John
I decided it just wasn't needed the Dmax throttle was just fine standard , I had it fitted for over 90k but turned off most of the time
Every now and then I would turn it on just because it was still there , it only confirmed that it really was just a waste of $$$
I no longer have the Dmax , still have the iDrive anyone want it cheap ( they are fantastic )
No mate that's no how they work .
They tend to have several settings on how much they boost that sensitivity.
Some also have the ability to be set to auto and work off your driving style or even decrease the input for off roading or the like to make the pedal more docile.
Basically, what Rock pasted up.
Thanks Jacko, That was the same downfall of this one in my mind.
Although I've been promised by a mate who has the idrive that the issues I had with this one are not evident in his Idrive.
I want one where I can reduce the input on the pedal for when I'm off road and want a finer input.
I was happy to try this one at under 100 bucks but will need to consider if I really want it at 300.
I had this one in for around 4 months or more an am currently running without it.
if those issues weren't present though, I think it would still be connected.
cheers Brett
as a note it appears the abode timer used in this video is out by a factor of 2.
so times shown on the video are double of the actual times.
As a result the speed tests look more like this.
Sp1 6 seconds
Sp5 6.5
Sp9 7.1
No Controller 9.5 so the difference to 60 is about 3.5 seconds.
I'll look to correct the video and upload with new figures.
-- Edited by denmonkey on Wednesday 21st of November 2018 11:01:10 PM
Since taking it back out I can notice they sponginess of the throttle without it.
I remember those hyclone things but have never had a chance to see one in the flesh or lay hands on it.
The controller though obviously can't change your car into something it's not but it does change how the power is delivered.
No different to the 'sports' button on the dash I guess.
The results I got show they do improve the cars responsiveness, how it happens though I can't tell you.