Here's a question how many vans are out there with only 1 outside vent, NO bottom vent. We have an 190 litre 2 door compressor fridge that is driving us crazy, fridge will not get cold some days it runs continuously other days it cycles. our 2 x 110 ah batteries drain ( we only have 300 watt on roof will be increased to 450 ) but we do not have a bottom vent on the outside. Hate the bloody fridge want to replace it with a 3 way. Bass
yobarr said
07:42 PM Dec 12, 2018
Bass wrote:
Here's a question how many vans are out there with only 1 outside vent, NO bottom vent. We have an 190 litre 2 door compressor fridge that is driving us crazy, fridge will not get cold some days it runs continuously other days it cycles. our 2 x 110 ah batteries drain ( we only have 300 watt on roof will be increased to 450 ) but we do not have a bottom vent on the outside. Hate the bloody fridge want to replace it with a 3 way. Bass
Hi Warren....I dont know the ins and outs of refrigeration,but I have a 175 litre Evakool fridge/freezer with NO vents to the outside.It simply vents into the van,with 6 inch clearance behind it,2 inches either side,and about 4 inches clearance to the shelf above it. Do yourself a BIG favour,and stay well away from 3-way fridges,particularly if you intend to travel anywhere near the Tropics,unless you are a person who likes warm beer. Had a 3 way Dometic 2553 fridge but gave it to someone I dont like! Cheers
-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 12th of December 2018 07:43:50 PM
-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 12th of December 2018 08:15:20 PM
Peter_n_Margaret said
07:51 PM Dec 12, 2018
Our compressor fridge has no external vents, it vents inside only, so no risk of dust getting in.
How it is vented depends on the layout of the compressor and the condensor. Start by getting a copy of the instillation nstructions. If you follow them it will probably work well.
Cheers,
Peter
Dougwe said
07:51 PM Dec 12, 2018
Before you do that try fitting one or two computor fans to inside vent manually controlled to suck hot air out. I fitted two and have no problems at all now. The hot sun is on that side of teepee every day as we speak. I turn fans on around 3pm and turn off around 8pm.
Radar said
08:06 PM Dec 12, 2018
Bass wrote:
Here's a question how many vans are out there with only 1 outside vent, NO bottom vent. We have an 190 litre 2 door compressor fridge that is driving us crazy, fridge will not get cold some days it runs continuously other days it cycles. our 2 x 110 ah batteries drain ( we only have 300 watt on roof will be increased to 450 ) but we do not have a bottom vent on the outside. Hate the bloody fridge want to replace it with a 3 way. Bass
Hi Bass
My first thoughts are that you need the frig serviced by a proper 12/240 volt frig person, no ifs or butts. Maybe something so simple as a sensor.
I personnaly think the vents will have very little to do with the operation of the frig but may need enlarging to improve an already good product.
Bass a question needs answering is, whats the age of the frig and how long has it been not operating unsuccessfully for?
To replace the frig is going to be very expensive excircise either way.
I do like the simplicity of the 3 way and the modern larger ones are even better, so don't get confused by the statements "beer will not be cold enough in one".
swamp said
08:27 PM Dec 12, 2018
HI
300watts per 220AH will always be borderline .
Heavy consumption requires at least 200watts per 100/120ah battery
Use a MPPt to get every bit out of the solar
What do u do for 12v van batt charging while driving ????
Are u arriving at camp flat /under charged ??
With limited storage u have no excuses batts must be FULLY charged .
Consider a DC/DC prefer a 30 amp unit
Is the compressor fridge operating OK get serviced and check its temps and operating pressures .
What`s the inside temp of van when its having trouble .
An exhaust for any fridge is a good idea to keep the heat out of the van .
Aux fridge fans work differently for compressor vs 3 way but same principle
Monitoring battery state of charge
At least have a digital volt meter eg 12.03 volts installed so u no your AM/morning voltage B4 charge happens
Hetho said
08:49 PM Dec 12, 2018
Hi Bass.
I have a 215 litre compressor fridge with a bottom freezer, 2 door. I have no vents to the outside.
My fridge is a Nova Cool and it vents via the fan that sucks the warm air from under the fridge to the inside of the van.
However, it needs to be serviced as dust/fluffy stuff builds up on the fan blades.
Before you give up, unscrew the front vent panel and give it a good vacuum and defluff. Especially on the inside of the fan.
The fan unscrews for easy cleaning.
I do mine every month or so, its amazing the buildup. Give the vent a good clean as well.
Hopefully this will help. My fridge works perfectly in 46 and or 4 degrees.
Regards.
Hetho.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:01 PM Dec 12, 2018
Door seals ok ? We have no problem with 200 l fridge / freezer and 50l portable on batteries 220 AH / 400 watt solar . Most days by 10.30 the green light in flashing . It runs even when home . Seems its not operating efficiently? Or not holding the temp ??
Radar said
09:45 PM Dec 12, 2018
Hetho wrote:
Hi Bass.
I have a 215 litre compressor fridge with a bottom freezer, 2 door. I have no vents to the outside.
My fridge is a Nova Cool and it vents via the fan that sucks the warm air from under the fridge to the inside of the van.
However, it needs to be serviced as dust/fluffy stuff builds up on the fan blades.
Before you give up, unscrew the front vent panel and give it a good vacuum and defluff. Especially on the inside of the fan.
The fan unscrews for easy cleaning.
I do mine every month or so, its amazing the buildup. Give the vent a good clean as well.
Hopefully this will help. My fridge works perfectly in 46 and or 4 degrees.
Regards.
Hetho.
Hi Hetho.
Some real good information there. Ralph.
Wanda said
08:45 AM Dec 13, 2018
Hi
Like others above, we have a 210lt Evakool with no outside vents(my choice from new). We also had installed a double fan, with a switch I can turn on when needed, set up to circulate air through the rear of the fridge. Did not want any outside vents as this is just another area dust WOULD get in.
This system works for me, yes, the fridge still cycles for longer periods on the hotter days but I am sure it is made easier with the fans.
Sounds like you either have a fridge problem or insulation problem, whatever DON'T go back to a 3 way.
good luck lots of advise still to come?
Ian
-- Edited by Wanda on Thursday 13th of December 2018 08:48:04 AM
iana said
09:21 AM Dec 13, 2018
We have a 217 lt. (I think) Waeco compressor fridge, it is vented air in at the bottom from outside, and hot air out through the roof, and to the inside of the van. Remember the fridge is removing heat, and exhausting it outside in our case, or inside for others.
Our fridge cycles each hour and the compressor runs for about 5 minutes. You don't say how old the fridge is, nor how old the batteries are. Or whether you have an alternate power supply to avoid the batteries going past their discharge limit. We have just replaced our batteries, and the power is holding quite well, I think the original batteries may have been damaged by the service/manufacturer, and never had full capacity. Power management with a 12v fridge is a big thing, as the power usually drains at about 3-4am.
So we have 450W of solar, and 2x 12 AH AGM batteries, plus a standby batter of 80AH in the ute. This can be plugged in when required when required.
I would check that the condenser is clear of debris, and that the compressor fan is running and the fan is also turning not loose on the shaft, and is clean.
We have a switch that turns on an element, to stop frosting at the door, that is recommended to be off when using the 12v power of the RV. We have the fridge temperature set to minimum.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:22 AM Dec 13, 2018
Dont know if this helps ? Early on when we had lower battery AH / 180 watt solar . I fitted a timer where fridge was turned off from say ?? Midnight to 7AM . With plenty of cold bottles of water had plenty in reserve .
Radar said
04:00 PM Dec 13, 2018
Looks like the Orignal Poster has gone out and buried his head in the sand.
elliemike said
05:24 PM Dec 13, 2018
As a previous poster said. Have you had it checked by a Refrigeration Service Person.
It might need re gassing, if it has lost any of the Refrigerant it will struggle.
I ran a 3 way fridge for 10 years All over Australia it worked OK for me. But then, I never carry Beer.
They can be a pain sometimes, but generally pretty reliable when installed correctly, (or Re Installed correctly).
Very few installations of 3 way fridges in Caravans and Campers I have seen, are set up as per Manufacturer's Specs. Wiring, Venting spaces gaps etc. So right from coming out of the factory the 3 way fridge is not working efficiently.
When doing some major alterations to the inside of the van last year I replaced the 3 way with a Compressor Fridge and installed another battery (two new ones) . I am very pleased with it.
The old 3 way fridge is now in a 20 + year old caravan and still going well last time I heard from the owner. They very rarely use it on Gas.
-- Edited by elliemike on Thursday 13th of December 2018 05:45:42 PM
Bass said
07:10 PM Dec 13, 2018
Hi guys, thanks for the reply's. To answer some questions the van is a sentinel ( stay well away from that brand also sentinel caravan repairs. ) any way it was new in late 2016 so I assume that the waceo fridge is a 2016 model also the batteries about the same age. On the inside it has vents at the top and bottom , and 1 vent on the outside at the top. The van is fitted with a BM PRO battery management system with trek read out so I know amp draw, batt voltage, solar imput, batt condition etc. sometimes the fridge draws 4amps other times it idles at 1.8 amps.
We bought the Van in late 2017 ( still new 12months old )
As I said are going to put another 150 watts on roof and have 2 x 120ah full river batts at home that are 2 years old they going in. When we get the van home will take advice and track down a fridge man and get him to have a look.
Note.. our last van had 3 way fridge and it worked well kept its cool in high 30's.
BAZZA44 said
12:37 PM Dec 14, 2018
Don't go to a 3 way.
Check the wiring to the fridge. Is it just 4 or 6 mm auto wire. If so, you need to rewire with larger wire direct from batteries to fridge, via a circuit breaker.
There needs to be no voltage loss.
As been mentioned clean condenser etc. Can you fit insulation between the fridge and walls of cupboard.
A good compressor fridge, correctly installed, will always work better than a 3 way.
And yes you need more solar.
Barry
iana said
01:51 PM Dec 14, 2018
Bass wrote:
Sometimes the fridge draws 4amps other times it idles at 1.8 amps.
Just wondering if we have a clue here, according to our Dometic Waeco manual, the RPD-175 draws 7Amps, and the 213 draws 7.5Amps. Your fridge is drawing a lot less, but it sounds as though the compressor is going much longer, suggesting there is no load on the compressor, suggesting it has lost its refridgerant.
Bass said
08:33 PM Jun 10, 2019
Hi guys I have replied but don't know what has happened to them. To keep all up to date here's the latest story. Fridge works on 240 ok ( i think) It was at our son's for months he turned the 240v off acciedently and in full sun and 30 degree day fridge turned off drained batteries to 10.7 V. So I fitted extra 180 watt solar ( now 480w ) installed a bottom vent. replaced batteries with 2 x 120ahr . TODAY no 240v part sunny and 13 degrees fridge running on and off, Batteries 13.6 volts. all up its working fine extra solar doing great. Went outside at 6pm to check van, Fridge off and batteries at 10.7 v.. Seals are good done the high power light test, took top vent off and blew dust etc away ( cape york dust)
Now our Diesiel heater was tripping on under voltage (10 meters of light cable) so wired direct to batteries now all good. should the Fridge be wired directed to the batteries ? I'm guessing from the batteries to the BMPRO to the fridge would be 10 meters also.
Pulling me dam hair out, Cheers Bass
blaze said
09:22 PM Jun 10, 2019
I run all my loads via a main fuse to the battery. My controller only takes care of the solar input and output. Have always set up my systems like this
cheers
blaze
Bass said
04:31 PM Jun 11, 2019
Hi blaze, follow this if you can.. got home 3pm no clouds, van on 240v fridge running battery gauge said 13.6 v. (all else turned off. ) Turned 240 off fridge stopped instantly batteries 11.7v fridge would not start red light flashing, turned thermo up tried again fridge fired up for a second , batt 14 v then stopped batt volt back to 11.7. NO solar imput showing. turn on 240 bingo all good fridge started ok 13.6 v batts. Right turn 240 off check batteries with multimeter 13.5 v thats good, pull top vent off check volts to fridge 10.7v bugger someone stole my volts. Ok go to battery management system fridge is connection number 1, double bugger 10.7 v. ( still no solar showing ) Check solar imput 19.75v seems ok. check ALL outputs 10,7v . disconnected all power source to BMPRO it shuts down, reconnect again all outputs 12.8v even shows solar .8amps , now the big test turn fridge on BINGO bloody thing runs and continues to run. Maybe just maybe it has been the BMPRO all the time. watch this space.
Cheers bass. ( think will follow your lead and wire it direct.
iana said
11:13 AM Jun 12, 2019
When we went to take our van away from the dealer, the 12v fridge didn't go, the tech had a look and got it going, all good. Got it home and found the fridge not going again, found the fuse in the Setec unit blown. I checked the circuit and found that for some reason, Dometic use a 240-12v transformer that swaps over to house 12v when the mains is disconnected. There seemed to be some conflict that when switching blew the fuse.
So why have this black box? when the Setec unit does that anyhow, so I ripped it out, connected the fridge direct to the Setec unit and had no trouble with blowing fuses since.
That unit must have a relay to switch over, and I am wondering if you have this black box, and if the relay contacts are in poor condition giving you a reduced or no voltage.
Anyway if you have this 240v adaptor, try doing what I have done, disconnect the 12v leads and join them up red to red and black to black, and see if there is a difference.
I forgot to add, you will find it at the end of the 240v lead, somewhere under the fridge. Ian
-- Edited by iana on Wednesday 12th of June 2019 11:15:59 AM
Bass said
04:46 PM Jun 12, 2019
Thanks iana when /if it stops raining i will check that out. Driving me crazy everbody says compressor fridges are better but our gas one in last van never missed a beat in 6 years even up north in 40 degree days worked fine. This bloody thing..... it should not drain the 2x100ahr batteries when van in full sun and zero else on in 1 day. bad mistake buying this van. Makes holidays unpleasent, we coped going to cape york thanks to honda genny.
Baz421 said
09:59 AM Jun 13, 2019
Bass wrote:
Hi blaze, follow this if you can.. got home 3pm no clouds, van on 240v fridge running battery gauge said 13.6 v. (all else turned off. ) Turned 240 off fridge stopped instantly batteries 11.7v fridge would not start red light flashing, turned thermo up tried again fridge fired up for a second , batt 14 v then stopped batt volt back to 11.7. NO solar imput showing. turn on 240 bingo all good fridge started ok 13.6 v batts. Right turn 240 off check batteries with multimeter 13.5 v thats good, pull top vent off check volts to fridge 10.7v bugger someone stole my volts. Ok go to battery management system fridge is connection number 1, double bugger 10.7 v. ( still no solar showing ) Check solar imput 19.75v seems ok. check ALL outputs 10,7v . disconnected all power source to BMPRO it shuts down, reconnect again all outputs 12.8v even shows solar .8amps , now the big test turn fridge on BINGO bloody thing runs and continues to run. Maybe just maybe it has been the BMPRO all the time. watch this space.
Cheers bass. ( think will follow your lead and wire it direct.
Hey Bass,,, had a very similar problem on 12v. However we have a 12v ONLY compressor fridge.
My solar controller failed easter weekend,,,, got a new one in Melb,, fitted up looked ok etc etc.
Turns out it was the load connection WITHIN THE JAYCAR POWERTECH SOLAR CONTROLLER,,,,, THE LOAD KEPT DROPPING OFF and I had up to 2.5v drop at fridge,,, CAUSED BY THE PROBLEM CONTROLLER NOT POOR WIRING AS THE SO CALLED EXPERTS KEPT TELLING ME ,,, I knew it wasn't wiring as it has been ok for the life of the van.
New controller seemed to be doing the same,,,, however I reset it and all good now.
Remember this hi tech stuff is working for us,,,,,,lol. I espouse the KISS principle, and we keep meeting grey nomads with all sorts of tech problems with all sorts of things almost daily,,, shiny new vans problem after problem. Thetford fridges (latest models) seem to be the most common issues.
Cheers Baz
Bass said
07:19 PM Jun 13, 2019
Hi Baz, I hope it is the controller it seems to have reset itself but i haven't tested it yet, the CEO put stuff in the fridge and dosen't want stuff defrosted. on weekend will try it out as will be in van so can watch it. The heater problem was man made. solved that problem. Cheers bass
Baz421 said
09:32 PM Jun 13, 2019
Bass wrote:
Hi Baz, I hope it is the controller it seems to have reset itself but i haven't tested it yet, the CEO put stuff in the fridge and dosen't want stuff defrosted. on weekend will try it out as will be in van so can watch it. The heater problem was man made. solved that problem. Cheers bass
Hi again.
One way to check is at the solar output voltage as you turn the fridge on. Mine was a load output connection (or use battery voltage at controller) but it showed battery voltage correctly but as soon as fridge started voltage dropped instantly up to 2.5V.
What brand/model solar controller is it.
I was tearing my hair out too,,, even got a fridgie to put a new controller on compressor (Danfoss BDF50) but same result so looked at solar controller as the problem,,, and there it was bingo.
This took about 3 weeks to solve so I know where you are coming from.
Cheers baz
iana said
10:59 PM Jun 13, 2019
If by chance it is the regulator, have a look at the one I have for sale, it allows you to have more panels if required, and is good quality, I'm only selling it as I was advised to go a MPPT reg.
Bass said
07:19 PM Jun 16, 2019
Hi guys thanks for the imput now have 480 watts on the roof and that should be fine for every thing. I think by adding the lower vent I have solved one problem as the fridge didn't run any where as often as previously ( either 240v or 12v ). we arrived at 9,30pm when pulled up plugged in 240v and controller failed to switch over. turned it off and reset then back on all ok. moved van sat arvo disconnected 240v moved and reconnected 240v Bloody thing worked ok no reset required, and worked fine , left van on 240v and will retest in 2 weeks. Controller is a setec BMPRO 35. with a trek readout, Cheers bass
Bass said
07:17 PM Oct 7, 2019
Hi guys, Current update.....Van at our old home till we sell it (home ) plugged in to 240v . on the weekend played about a bit, turned 240 off, fridge stopped all else off also no lights etc, check batteries 12.94v ok get out big portable solar 120watt plug into anderson plug no change no readout no lights etc batteries still 12.94v. Right, plug solar direct to battery anderson plug 13.6v thats good but everything still OFF. Turn 240v back on........Nothing, zip, nil, fridge on but nothing else working. turn 240v off turn 240v back on all aok everything all good. turned 240v off and plugged solar in again same result as before oh golly gee wiz ( or words to that effect ) gave up and turned 240v back on FAR OUT trek controller shows 12.8 v connected to AC. so left the bloody thing at that. Multi meter reading batteries 12.94v.
Gave up with the setec / BMpro people one bloke told me to bring van in and they would change it over so when back in vic another bloke said I have to unwire it and bring it in and they would look at it (week or so) Whingeing to work mate about problem and his brother had similiar problem with bmpro and got same response.
Don't know where to go now any one want to buy a van. Lol.
-- Edited by Bass on Monday 7th of October 2019 08:32:33 PM
Bass
Hi Warren....I dont know the ins and outs of refrigeration,but I have a 175 litre Evakool fridge/freezer with NO vents to the outside.It simply vents into the van,with 6 inch clearance behind it,2 inches either side,and about 4 inches clearance to the shelf above it. Do yourself a BIG favour,and stay well away from 3-way fridges,particularly if you intend to travel anywhere near the Tropics,unless you are a person who likes warm beer. Had a 3 way Dometic 2553 fridge but gave it to someone I dont like! Cheers
-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 12th of December 2018 07:43:50 PM
-- Edited by yobarr on Wednesday 12th of December 2018 08:15:20 PM
How it is vented depends on the layout of the compressor and the condensor. Start by getting a copy of the instillation nstructions. If you follow them it will probably work well.
Cheers,
Peter
Hi Bass
My first thoughts are that you need the frig serviced by a proper 12/240 volt frig person, no ifs or butts. Maybe something so simple as a sensor.
I personnaly think the vents will have very little to do with the operation of the frig but may need enlarging to improve an already good product.
Bass a question needs answering is, whats the age of the frig and how long has it been not operating unsuccessfully for?
To replace the frig is going to be very expensive excircise either way.
I do like the simplicity of the 3 way and the modern larger ones are even better, so don't get confused by the statements "beer will not be cold enough in one".
300watts per 220AH will always be borderline .
Heavy consumption requires at least 200watts per 100/120ah battery
Use a MPPt to get every bit out of the solar
What do u do for 12v van batt charging while driving ????
Are u arriving at camp flat /under charged ??
With limited storage u have no excuses batts must be FULLY charged .
Consider a DC/DC prefer a 30 amp unit
Is the compressor fridge operating OK get serviced and check its temps and operating pressures .
What`s the inside temp of van when its having trouble .
An exhaust for any fridge is a good idea to keep the heat out of the van .
Aux fridge fans work differently for compressor vs 3 way but same principle
Monitoring battery state of charge
At least have a digital volt meter eg 12.03 volts installed so u no your AM/morning voltage B4 charge happens
Hi Bass.
I have a 215 litre compressor fridge with a bottom freezer, 2 door. I have no vents to the outside.
My fridge is a Nova Cool and it vents via the fan that sucks the warm air from under the fridge to the inside of the van.
However, it needs to be serviced as dust/fluffy stuff builds up on the fan blades.
Before you give up, unscrew the front vent panel and give it a good vacuum and defluff. Especially on the inside of the fan.
The fan unscrews for easy cleaning.
I do mine every month or so, its amazing the buildup. Give the vent a good clean as well.
Hopefully this will help. My fridge works perfectly in 46 and or 4 degrees.
Regards.
Hetho.
Hi Hetho.
Some real good information there. Ralph.
Hi
Like others above, we have a 210lt Evakool with no outside vents(my choice from new). We also had installed a double fan, with a switch I can turn on when needed, set up to circulate air through the rear of the fridge. Did not want any outside vents as this is just another area dust WOULD get in.
This system works for me, yes, the fridge still cycles for longer periods on the hotter days but I am sure it is made easier with the fans.
Sounds like you either have a fridge problem or insulation problem, whatever DON'T go back to a 3 way.
good luck lots of advise still to come?
Ian
-- Edited by Wanda on Thursday 13th of December 2018 08:48:04 AM
Our fridge cycles each hour and the compressor runs for about 5 minutes. You don't say how old the fridge is, nor how old the batteries are. Or whether you have an alternate power supply to avoid the batteries going past their discharge limit. We have just replaced our batteries, and the power is holding quite well, I think the original batteries may have been damaged by the service/manufacturer, and never had full capacity. Power management with a 12v fridge is a big thing, as the power usually drains at about 3-4am.
So we have 450W of solar, and 2x 12 AH AGM batteries, plus a standby batter of 80AH in the ute. This can be plugged in when required when required.
I would check that the condenser is clear of debris, and that the compressor fan is running and the fan is also turning not loose on the shaft, and is clean.
We have a switch that turns on an element, to stop frosting at the door, that is recommended to be off when using the 12v power of the RV. We have the fridge temperature set to minimum.
Looks like the Orignal Poster has gone out and buried his head in the sand.
As a previous poster said. Have you had it checked by a Refrigeration Service Person.
It might need re gassing, if it has lost any of the Refrigerant it will struggle.
I ran a 3 way fridge for 10 years All over Australia it worked OK for me. But then, I never carry Beer.
They can be a pain sometimes, but generally pretty reliable when installed correctly, (or Re Installed correctly).
Very few installations of 3 way fridges in Caravans and Campers I have seen, are set up as per Manufacturer's Specs. Wiring, Venting spaces gaps etc. So right from coming out of the factory the 3 way fridge is not working efficiently.
When doing some major alterations to the inside of the van last year I replaced the 3 way with a Compressor Fridge and installed another battery (two new ones) . I am very pleased with it.
The old 3 way fridge is now in a 20 + year old caravan and still going well last time I heard from the owner. They very rarely use it on Gas.
-- Edited by elliemike on Thursday 13th of December 2018 05:45:42 PM
We bought the Van in late 2017 ( still new 12months old )
As I said are going to put another 150 watts on roof and have 2 x 120ah full river batts at home that are 2 years old they going in. When we get the van home will take advice and track down a fridge man and get him to have a look.
Note.. our last van had 3 way fridge and it worked well kept its cool in high 30's.
Check the wiring to the fridge. Is it just 4 or 6 mm auto wire. If so, you need to rewire with larger wire direct from batteries to fridge, via a circuit breaker.
There needs to be no voltage loss.
As been mentioned clean condenser etc. Can you fit insulation between the fridge and walls of cupboard.
A good compressor fridge, correctly installed, will always work better than a 3 way.
And yes you need more solar.
Barry
Just wondering if we have a clue here, according to our Dometic Waeco manual, the RPD-175 draws 7Amps, and the 213 draws 7.5Amps. Your fridge is drawing a lot less, but it sounds as though the compressor is going much longer, suggesting there is no load on the compressor, suggesting it has lost its refridgerant.
Now our Diesiel heater was tripping on under voltage (10 meters of light cable) so wired direct to batteries now all good. should the Fridge be wired directed to the batteries ? I'm guessing from the batteries to the BMPRO to the fridge would be 10 meters also.
Pulling me dam hair out, Cheers Bass
cheers
blaze
Cheers bass. ( think will follow your lead and wire it direct.
When we went to take our van away from the dealer, the 12v fridge didn't go, the tech had a look and got it going, all good. Got it home and found the fridge not going again, found the fuse in the Setec unit blown. I checked the circuit and found that for some reason, Dometic use a 240-12v transformer that swaps over to house 12v when the mains is disconnected. There seemed to be some conflict that when switching blew the fuse.
So why have this black box? when the Setec unit does that anyhow, so I ripped it out, connected the fridge direct to the Setec unit and had no trouble with blowing fuses since.
That unit must have a relay to switch over, and I am wondering if you have this black box, and if the relay contacts are in poor condition giving you a reduced or no voltage.
Anyway if you have this 240v adaptor, try doing what I have done, disconnect the 12v leads and join them up red to red and black to black, and see if there is a difference.
I forgot to add, you will find it at the end of the 240v lead, somewhere under the fridge. Ian
-- Edited by iana on Wednesday 12th of June 2019 11:15:59 AM
bad mistake buying this van. Makes holidays unpleasent, we coped going to cape york thanks to honda genny.
Hey Bass,,, had a very similar problem on 12v. However we have a 12v ONLY compressor fridge.
My solar controller failed easter weekend,,,, got a new one in Melb,, fitted up looked ok etc etc.
Turns out it was the load connection WITHIN THE JAYCAR POWERTECH SOLAR CONTROLLER,,,,, THE LOAD KEPT DROPPING OFF and I had up to 2.5v drop at fridge,,, CAUSED BY THE PROBLEM CONTROLLER NOT POOR WIRING AS THE SO CALLED EXPERTS KEPT TELLING ME ,,, I knew it wasn't wiring as it has been ok for the life of the van.
New controller seemed to be doing the same,,,, however I reset it and all good now.
Remember this hi tech stuff is working for us,,,,,,lol. I espouse the KISS principle, and we keep meeting grey nomads with all sorts of tech problems with all sorts of things almost daily,,, shiny new vans problem after problem. Thetford fridges (latest models) seem to be the most common issues.
Cheers Baz
Cheers bass
Hi again.
One way to check is at the solar output voltage as you turn the fridge on. Mine was a load output connection (or use battery voltage at controller) but it showed battery voltage correctly but as soon as fridge started voltage dropped instantly up to 2.5V.
What brand/model solar controller is it.
I was tearing my hair out too,,, even got a fridgie to put a new controller on compressor (Danfoss BDF50) but same result so looked at solar controller as the problem,,, and there it was bingo.
This took about 3 weeks to solve so I know where you are coming from.
Cheers baz
Controller is a setec BMPRO 35. with a trek readout,
Cheers bass
Gave up with the setec / BMpro people one bloke told me to bring van in and they would change it over so when back in vic another bloke said I have to unwire it and bring it in and they would look at it (week or so) Whingeing to work mate about problem and his brother had similiar problem with bmpro and got same response.
Don't know where to go now any one want to buy a van. Lol.
-- Edited by Bass on Monday 7th of October 2019 08:32:33 PM