When I purchased this coaster it had a 24v to 12v x 20amp charger, charging 1 120amh battery.
So I have stripped out the back half to modify beds, fit toilet and shower
Will be fitting 2 x 200w solar panels connected to the batteries by 100amp cable of 2 meters via a 50amp mppt controller
I am running a 50amp twin core right up the rhs of the coaster and will tap 2 flyleads of 50amp cable to 2 separate fuse boxes, The fridge will also run off this cable.
On the lhs there will be 2 fuse boxes connected to the batteries by 50 amp cable.
Isolator fitted at batteries and fridge
50 amp circuit breaker at batteries
I know
For the purist, I call cable 50 amp and 100amp cause that's what I know it as and not squared this or that
cheers
blaze
ps
any ideas taken on board if offered, but I am only a simple old mechanic so no high teck explanation
Aus-Kiwi said
02:40 PM Jan 29, 2019
I have two 6mm sq cables runing down from 4 Panels . With 35 Amp Prostar reg . No trouble at all . Cables are 2m long from roof connection under panel for extra protection ., All charged by 9.30am with green light flashing on 13.7v 220l Compressor fridge freezer and little 50l fridge connected permanently.
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Tuesday 29th of January 2019 03:11:49 PM
Whenarewethere said
04:59 PM Jan 29, 2019
I take it you are running the 2 x 200 watt panels in series with the MPPT.
4AWG at 12 metres +&- (there & back) will have a 0.15 voltage drop at 15 amps.
I replaced the 16AWG with 12AWG cable within my fridge to help the entire electrical network.
PeterD said
12:28 AM Jan 30, 2019
blaze wrote:I know
For the purist, I call cable 50 amp and 100amp cause that's what I know it as and not squared this or that
Blaze, is the current rating you are using the rating for the cable in free air or the rating when buried in the wall. You should really make an effort to find out the cross section of the cable as the current rating of cables is pretty meaningless to knowledgeable electrical types.
blaze said
03:13 AM Jan 30, 2019
when I pick up a length of cable, I reckon by now, Im a pretty good judge of the wire size and insulation for the purpose I choose to use it. To be perfectly honest, for what I am doing, I am more than happy with my cable chose.
In the past I have held aircon cirtifictae (linicence for R12), telecomnication cert (doing phone line work) Built and sold/serviced computers
Can weld with mig, tig and stick, left and right handed, worked in construction, renovated a few houses, run a printing shop with offset press, hot foil printing, sign writing and screen printing all this plus more after training as a diesel fitter at 15 years old.
I didnt start this post To find the square **** of a cable or to see if my solar panels were inside out and tthe generator running backward
so I most likely wont respond to any more post in this thread
Thanks for all the imput
cheers
blaze
yobarr said
08:03 AM Jan 30, 2019
blaze wrote:
I didnt start this post to find the square **** of a cable or to see if my solar panels were inside out and tthe generator running backward so I most likely wont respond to any more post in this thread.
Thats telling them Blaze.....heaven forbid,you might even think that they were trying to help you! Cheers.
Aus-Kiwi said
08:58 AM Jan 30, 2019
Theres so many different wire size combinations . In domestic 240v its measured in actuall
Wire size . I dont wish to lecture or get personal. I assume 50 amp is 25mm sq being under 5m ? Must say even the leads from 40 amp charger are on the thin side .,Note how hot these get when charging ? The connectors at reg in my case is only big enough for ( app) 8mm. So I fitted a link behind regulator to reduce cable size .,
Terryt said
03:08 PM Jan 30, 2019
Blaze, it's nice you have a coaster and I hope you get as much enjoyment out of as we do ours but to put that post up and inviting ideas only to jump down peoples throats when they make suggestions doesn't bode well for future assistance or suggestions. And with all your experience I'm surprised you don't know it all. Oh that's right, you do
Jaahn said
06:07 PM Jan 31, 2019
Hi Blaze
To throw in another aspect of your Coaster transformation to consider as you plan it and do the work !
The Coaster like most buses is normally front heavy unloaded. When fully loaded with passengers and some gear, it is much better balanced with the back carrying more weight than the front axle. This is good and should be with the dual wheels there. When buses are converted to a camper often there is insufficient weight put down the back. Eg only the double bed, and/or the toilet and shower. The heavy cupboards and batteries and tanks etc are usually around the center. So the front axle load is heavy and the rear is too light. This is not balanced and the vehicle often lacks traction in poor conditions.
Just saying, for other people and your self to consider.
Jaahn
blaze said
07:35 PM Jan 31, 2019
Thanks Jaahn
The shower, toilet, sink are going right across the back .
The toilet will have a gap between it and rear wall (accessed from boot) for tools,jacks etc
2 x 120amph batteries behind wheel, 90 l water tank just in front of wheel
40 l aux fuel tank just in front of rhs wheel
single beds over wheel archs will create more storage for heavier Items
and yes, the bum does sit up with nothing in it. like now
cheers
blaze
When I purchased this coaster it had a 24v to 12v x 20amp charger, charging 1 120amh battery.
So I have stripped out the back half to modify beds, fit toilet and shower
Will be fitting 2 x 200w solar panels connected to the batteries by 100amp cable of 2 meters via a 50amp mppt controller
I am running a 50amp twin core right up the rhs of the coaster and will tap 2 flyleads of 50amp cable to 2 separate fuse boxes, The fridge will also run off this cable.
On the lhs there will be 2 fuse boxes connected to the batteries by 50 amp cable.
Isolator fitted at batteries and fridge
50 amp circuit breaker at batteries
I know
For the purist, I call cable 50 amp and 100amp cause that's what I know it as and not squared this or that
cheers
blaze
ps
any ideas taken on board if offered, but I am only a simple old mechanic so no high teck explanation
I have two 6mm sq cables runing down from 4
Panels . With 35 Amp Prostar reg . No trouble at all . Cables are 2m long from roof connection under panel for extra protection ., All charged by 9.30am with green light flashing on 13.7v 220l Compressor fridge freezer and little 50l fridge connected permanently.
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Tuesday 29th of January 2019 03:11:49 PM
I take it you are running the 2 x 200 watt panels in series with the MPPT.
4AWG at 12 metres +&- (there & back) will have a 0.15 voltage drop at 15 amps.
I replaced the 16AWG with 12AWG cable within my fridge to help the entire electrical network.
Blaze, is the current rating you are using the rating for the cable in free air or the rating when buried in the wall. You should really make an effort to find out the cross section of the cable as the current rating of cables is pretty meaningless to knowledgeable electrical types.
In the past I have held aircon cirtifictae (linicence for R12), telecomnication cert (doing phone line work) Built and sold/serviced computers
Can weld with mig, tig and stick, left and right handed, worked in construction, renovated a few houses, run a printing shop with offset press, hot foil printing, sign writing and screen printing all this plus more after training as a diesel fitter at 15 years old.
I didnt start this post To find the square **** of a cable or to see if my solar panels were inside out and tthe generator running backward
so I most likely wont respond to any more post in this thread
Thanks for all the imput
cheers
blaze
Thats telling them Blaze.....heaven forbid,you might even think that they were trying to help you! Cheers.
Wire size . I dont wish to lecture or get personal. I assume 50 amp is 25mm sq being under 5m ? Must say even the leads from 40 amp charger are on the thin side .,Note how hot these get when charging ? The connectors at reg in my case is only big enough for ( app) 8mm. So I fitted a link behind regulator to reduce cable size .,
Hi Blaze
To throw in another aspect of your Coaster transformation to consider as you plan it and do the work !
The Coaster like most buses is normally front heavy unloaded. When fully loaded with passengers and some gear, it is much better balanced with the back carrying more weight than the front axle. This is good and should be with the dual wheels there. When buses are converted to a camper often there is insufficient weight put down the back. Eg only the double bed, and/or the toilet and shower. The heavy cupboards and batteries and tanks etc are usually around the center. So the front axle load is heavy and the rear is too light.
This is not balanced and the vehicle often lacks traction in poor conditions.
Just saying, for other people and your self to consider.
Jaahn
The shower, toilet, sink are going right across the back .
The toilet will have a gap between it and rear wall (accessed from boot) for tools,jacks etc
2 x 120amph batteries behind wheel, 90 l water tank just in front of wheel
40 l aux fuel tank just in front of rhs wheel
single beds over wheel archs will create more storage for heavier Items
and yes, the bum does sit up with nothing in it. like now
cheers
blaze