I have to replace my Anderson plug and cable as it is just to short and pulls out after a few turns.
I want to replace the cable all the way back to the battery if I can .
Just extending it worries me.
I run one solar panel on teh roof through some sort of monitor devise
and two batteries
Two questions
1)What gage wire should I use 8,10,12 or?
2) At a guess do you think the cable runs directly back to the battereries or in to teh solar panel monitor.
Just interested in your views before I start pulling it to pecies
I intent to try and track the current cables back wants this week end
As you can tell I am no tech
Keep smiling and have a great week end.
Col
Possum3 said
01:37 PM Feb 1, 2019
A minor job for a Auto Electrician - Wire size and terminal ends and fuses best done by a pro. Most systems have a solenoid fitted.
Whenarewethere said
04:46 PM Feb 1, 2019
I have 6x20 watts of panels (2 in series x 3 sets) & use 6AWG throughout. My 120 watt soldering iron can just manage to solder a lug, but I have the lug sitting up on end in a hole drilled in a block of wood. Which keeps the lug still & provides insulation. Soldering iron sitting in the end of the lug & half fill with solder. Then heatshrink everything.
I haven't tried but I feel I would not be able to desolder the lug.
Col Rennie said
09:35 PM Feb 1, 2019
Thank you for the feed back
I will call in an auto ele
Baz421 said
09:59 PM Feb 1, 2019
Col Some retail 12v shops have premade wire/Anderson plugs OR you specify what you want.
If you can easily replace/run cable yourself,,, is cheapest option.
Curious are you ex RAAF,,, name rings a bell.
Cheers Baz
Aus-Kiwi said
11:22 PM Feb 1, 2019
Even auto electricians run wire too light . Easy to do yourself .
Whenarewethere said
12:17 AM Feb 2, 2019
I have a swaging tool to do up to 175 amp plugs, but prefer to solder but can only do up to 50 amp plugs. A lot of the pre made cables I have seen have non original Anderson plugs. If you do them yourself at least it is done right! Also run the heatshrink fully over the back half of the lug so it is fully insulated from the rear & it supports the cable so the wire cannot bend as much out the back of the lug. I also heatshrink with double wall thickness over both wires to give extra support. The 175 amp plug is getting a bit challenging.
This 50amp plug has 8AWG wire but it is the same heatshrink process as my 6AWG plugs & the second photo is a 175 amp plug.
Very nice job with the heatshrink. I find that's one of the disadvantages of the Anderson plugs, they let dust and moisture in the unsealed rear. Another quick and easy solution for sealing the rear and supporting the wires is a rubber boot from Jaycar - $4. I put them on all my Anderson plugs. The end cap helps to protect the contacts when there's nothing plugged in too.
-- Edited by Mamil on Saturday 2nd of February 2019 04:43:50 PM
Agree, the Anderson plugs are vulnerable. I have put this heavy duty cover on for the one in the engine bay. But it is a bit overkill where one needs some simple electrical cover.
Guys
Advise please
I have to replace my Anderson plug and cable as it is just to short and pulls out after a few turns.
I want to replace the cable all the way back to the battery if I can .
Just extending it worries me.
I run one solar panel on teh roof through some sort of monitor devise
and two batteries
Two questions
1)What gage wire should I use 8,10,12 or?
2) At a guess do you think the cable runs directly back to the battereries or in to teh solar panel monitor.
Just interested in your views before I start pulling it to pecies
I intent to try and track the current cables back wants this week end
As you can tell I am no tech
Keep smiling and have a great week end.
Col
I have 6x20 watts of panels (2 in series x 3 sets) & use 6AWG throughout. My 120 watt soldering iron can just manage to solder a lug, but I have the lug sitting up on end in a hole drilled in a block of wood. Which keeps the lug still & provides insulation. Soldering iron sitting in the end of the lug & half fill with solder. Then heatshrink everything.
I haven't tried but I feel I would not be able to desolder the lug.
I will call in an auto ele
Col Some retail 12v shops have premade wire/Anderson plugs OR you specify what you want.
If you can easily replace/run cable yourself,,, is cheapest option.
Curious are you ex RAAF,,, name rings a bell.
Cheers Baz
I have a swaging tool to do up to 175 amp plugs, but prefer to solder but can only do up to 50 amp plugs. A lot of the pre made cables I have seen have non original Anderson plugs. If you do them yourself at least it is done right! Also run the heatshrink fully over the back half of the lug so it is fully insulated from the rear & it supports the cable so the wire cannot bend as much out the back of the lug. I also heatshrink with double wall thickness over both wires to give extra support. The 175 amp plug is getting a bit challenging.
This 50amp plug has 8AWG wire but it is the same heatshrink process as my 6AWG plugs & the second photo is a 175 amp plug.
50amp 6AWG & 8AWG cable:
Very nice job with the heatshrink. I find that's one of the disadvantages of the Anderson plugs, they let dust and moisture in the unsealed rear. Another quick and easy solution for sealing the rear and supporting the wires is a rubber boot from Jaycar - $4. I put them on all my Anderson plugs. The end cap helps to protect the contacts when there's nothing plugged in too.
-- Edited by Mamil on Saturday 2nd of February 2019 04:43:50 PM
Agree, the Anderson plugs are vulnerable. I have put this heavy duty cover on for the one in the engine bay. But it is a bit overkill where one needs some simple electrical cover.