WAECO CF60 fridge dead on 12V, was good on 240 for a couple days longer
Harrer94 said
03:17 PM Mar 2, 2020
Hey there,
I have trouble with my waeco fridge cf60, it was working in 12 volts as on 240. First it stopped on 12 and after a while it stopped on 240 as well. All what works is the emergency mode. Lights on screen seem to be normal as long it's on emergency mode. As soon as i put it on normal mode on 240v it looks all good, display on, but if the temperature goes under the setup compressor doesn't start. On 12 v display turns on for 1 sec and turns of straight away. Display shows no temperatures on 12, but the green light flashes every 5 sec once(not the red) . Compressor doenst run on 12 v either.
What can it be, what can't it be? Looks like in my fridge are Boards from a cf40 fridge. Fuses seem to be all okay. How does polyfuse look like and how to test it?
Hope u can help me out need to start travel next week and need to have it sorted by then, otherwise all my food will be f*****...
Thanks in advance!
Cheers Florian
DeBe said
03:24 PM Mar 2, 2020
It may not have a polly fuse at all. Need pictures of the compressor control & the other board. Waeco change things on there models.
Whenarewethere said
03:28 PM Mar 2, 2020
Have you disconnected it from both 240 & 12 volts for a few minutes. I did once have a strange issue on my 28L Waeco & this fixed it.
Harrer94 said
03:37 PM Mar 2, 2020
Right will try to disconnect both for half an hour or something.
Harrer94 said
04:17 PM Mar 2, 2020
Shall be the pictures
bobsa said
04:26 PM Mar 2, 2020
Hi ,
Polyblock fuse, if this is gone the compressor will not run, they are a yellow square or round looking , have this model got one ?
The emergency override switch by-passes the thermostat, this will make the compressor run all the time,,
things will get very cold and freeze so you will have to turn the power on and off you are now the thermostat, is this happening ?
There are youtube on changing the thermostat by chopping out the underneath and refoaming the new one in
Jaycar part number for the thermister is RN3440 this a NTC 10K@25oC about $1
if this is your problem you could buy a thermister solder some wires to it and connect to the original thermostat
connection , just hang the lead into the fridge and tape the thermister to the bottom
sounds like a thermister problem to me.
cheers good luck Bob
Whenarewethere said
04:45 PM Mar 2, 2020
I have opened up my 28L a few times, also added a 7amp circuit breaker for 12 volts & heavier wiring.
A few photos inside the 28L fridge. Very straight forward opening & closing them.
Yeah it's buzzing on that little Platine where all the wires coming in (picture 3). Don't really feel like the thermistor would be gone. Which of the pictures is the polyfuse?
Harrer94 said
06:08 PM Mar 2, 2020
Bob where about can I find the thermistor on the board? How can I check it?
DeBe said
06:50 PM Mar 2, 2020
There is no Polly fuses in this unit. Also a faulty thermistor does not cause the display to go out. Put the compressor module back to gether. Using 12v to power the fridge check for 12V & 5V on the marked points on the picture. The thermistor is internal & foamed in to the fridge.
-- Edited by DeBe on Monday 2nd of March 2020 07:00:17 PM
So on 5v/ct are 5 volts on both sides. Thermistor plug are 2.5v with 4.4kohm and 23 degrees temperature.
DeBe said
11:19 PM Mar 2, 2020
To test the thermistor resistance it needs to be unpluged from the board. If you have 5 volts at the control board then the temp display should be litup. another test is short C & T the compressor should run continously.
Harrer94 said
12:51 AM Mar 3, 2020
So 5 volts and 10400 ohm on it. The ct contacts I contacted with a screwdriver but nothing happen different, compressor didn't start and display stayed blank... As soon as I unplug and plug the big white plug together, display turns on for about a second or sometimes for little longer. After it's blank again.
tracks said
08:58 AM Mar 3, 2020
This is a long shot, I've played around with circuit boards a lot, before you start pulling bits apart this is the first thing I would do, make sure all power is disconnected and leave for an hour or so before doing anything, get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner from Jaycar or wherever and give the board and all connections, plugs etc a good spray and leave again for an hour or 2, then apply power and see if she works, I've seen boards burnt out or short circuited by all sorts things tiny bugs, dust and moisture, hope this helps, failing that its a trip to a Waeco approved service joint,
DeBe said
12:27 PM Mar 3, 2020
Begining to suspect there is a fault with the display board. As a last check remove C & T terminals from compressor & put a link across the C & T terminals on the compressor, it should run. Your thermistor is fine.
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 3rd of March 2020 12:28:33 PM
Harrer94 said
01:21 PM Mar 3, 2020
Can u explain bit better we're I need to make the link pls? I think so too, it might be the display board.
Harrer94 said
01:45 PM Mar 3, 2020
cleaned the board with degreaser, wd40 and a toothbrush. 240v working again, but still issue with 12volts.
Harrer94 said
02:04 PM Mar 3, 2020
So runs on 240 perfectly! As soon I unplug 240 and put on 12v display turns on for about a second and turns off again. Compressor doesn't start at all only on emergency mode on 12v.
Pictures from display board.
DeBe said
03:15 PM Mar 3, 2020
Remove C & T wires & use a short link C & T. Compressor should run on 12v. Interesting to see if display lights up.
Compressor worked with c&t. Yeah as I said on 12volt normal mode display turns on for 1 sec and turns black after. If it turned blank it stays blank. Compressor doesn't work at all on 12 volts normal mode. Everything else seems like working now. Just this bloody 12 volt mode not...
DeBe said
06:57 PM Mar 3, 2020
I think it has got to the stage where you need to find a dealer that has a display board, & a compressor module to try. Theres not mutch else in these units. The display board is where the control processor is. It does eventualy get to a point is it worth spending money on it.
Harrer94 said
09:33 PM Mar 3, 2020
****...displayboard or the other, would need to order cause in middle of nowhere... What could be broken on displayboard? Do u have any links for me?
Harrer94 said
09:35 PM Mar 3, 2020
And do u have a picture how the display board shall look like? Like one of urs, just to double check if all the solder is right.
DeBe said
09:38 PM Mar 3, 2020
With surface mount components on the display board i dont consider them repairable. Only replacable if you can get them.
Right thank u so much for helping! Just another question have in total 380 watts solar power and a deep circle with 120ah. Out here western qld during Summer every day 40 degrees. After a 4 week fridge doenst get enough power. How many ampere does this fridge need if runs all day and night on Max? Setup always on low.
Whenarewethere said
11:19 AM Mar 4, 2020
Around 3.8amps maximum while the compressor is running, typically 3.2amps when the battery is a little discharged. There is not a lot between the 28L & 60L models. Maybe another 0.5amp.
Before we had an auxiliary battery in the car we ran the fridge cold when driving & made sure it was off while parked.
We also got ice bricks from Bunnings & lined the evaporator coil to create thermal mass. It worked really well but you do loose some fridge volume.
Run it all morning. Again late in the day for a few hours. Leave it off at night. You want about the equivalent of about 15 minutes per hour. So about 6 hours per 24 hours. Hot weather run it a bit longer.
We can wait to have a bit of meat in town. We also use powdered milk, they are probably the main things to be careful with.
Have you disconnected it from both 240 & 12 volts for a few minutes. I did once have a strange issue on my 28L Waeco & this fixed it.
Polyblock fuse, if this is gone the compressor will not run, they are a yellow square or round looking , have this model got one ?
The emergency override switch by-passes the thermostat, this will make the compressor run all the time,,
things will get very cold and freeze so you will have to turn the power on and off you are now the thermostat, is this happening ?
There are youtube on changing the thermostat by chopping out the underneath and refoaming the new one in
Jaycar part number for the thermister is RN3440 this a NTC 10K@25oC about $1
if this is your problem you could buy a thermister solder some wires to it and connect to the original thermostat
connection , just hang the lead into the fridge and tape the thermister to the bottom
sounds like a thermister problem to me.
cheers good luck Bob
I have opened up my 28L a few times, also added a 7amp circuit breaker for 12 volts & heavier wiring.
A few photos inside the 28L fridge. Very straight forward opening & closing them.
https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65059593/extra-fridge-insulation-wattage-test/
-- Edited by DeBe on Monday 2nd of March 2020 07:00:17 PM
Begining to suspect there is a fault with the display board. As a last check remove C & T terminals from compressor & put a link across the C & T terminals on the compressor, it should run. Your thermistor is fine.
-- Edited by DeBe on Tuesday 3rd of March 2020 12:28:33 PM
Around 3.8amps maximum while the compressor is running, typically 3.2amps when the battery is a little discharged. There is not a lot between the 28L & 60L models. Maybe another 0.5amp.
Before we had an auxiliary battery in the car we ran the fridge cold when driving & made sure it was off while parked.
We also got ice bricks from Bunnings & lined the evaporator coil to create thermal mass. It worked really well but you do loose some fridge volume.
Run it all morning. Again late in the day for a few hours. Leave it off at night. You want about the equivalent of about 15 minutes per hour. So about 6 hours per 24 hours. Hot weather run it a bit longer.
We can wait to have a bit of meat in town. We also use powdered milk, they are probably the main things to be careful with.