Afternoon all
I pulled my weaco cf60 out and was surprised to find no display when powered on, started diagnosing and have traced it back to the danfoss 240/12v control board(101n0500) the one that feeds the compressor. I have pictures but dont know how to upload them.
It there anyone who is able to help diagnose the failed part or can fix the boards or knows of a reasonably priced replacement the oem ones are hundreds of dollars.
Cheers in advance
Mike Harding said
01:55 PM Jun 24, 2020
First and foremost ensure 12V is getting to the fridge connector.
Next check any fuses the fridge may have - there may be one on the control PCB itself.
Next (seriously) lift the empty fridge 25mm from the floor and then drop it.
Next, with 12V applied, gently wiggle all wires and connectors you can find.
If none of the above produce an indication of the fault then you will need to find a technician to repair it or, and this may be a cheaper option, buy a new no-brand fridge from E-bay or the like - Jaycar currently have a range which look reasonable.
Good luck.
DeBe said
07:27 PM Jun 24, 2020
Don't drop the fridge, its not an Engel. Is the no display on 12V or 240V?
Whenarewethere said
08:12 PM Jun 24, 2020
I can't help on the actual problem, if you haven't pulled the fridge apart, it's not a problem, there are internal images here of my CX28 which I have made changes. Pulled it apart about half a dozen times. Also put in a 7amp panel circuit breaker (not shown).
Its a bit unusual for both the 12V & the 240vac side to fail. The only internal fuse is soldered inside on the 240V AC side. The 12V side uses the external fuse.
Debe:
I wont drop all good. I have pulled the danfoss unit out, not display on 12v or 240v I have hooked 12v up to the unit and bridge it as per other threads. I seem to have varying voltages throughout the board. I did check the compressor pin, on power on it pulses high to 20vdc ish and the drops down to 5vdc and holds there but no luck previously when it was Actually installed. What voltages should I expect at the compressor pins?
With the ac no luck at all, I removed the 12vdc and wired a to it via splade connectors and L &N. But I didnt get any voltage on the compressor pins when supplied with ac.
Maybe the ac part of the board is cooked but the 12v side still seems unreliable. Also my board has a large 330uF cap that isnt in your image that normal?
Appreciate the help
johncavil said
03:05 PM Jun 25, 2020
Debe: for clarification I have removed the danfoss unit and am bench testing it.
johncavil said
03:27 PM Jun 25, 2020
Debe: for clarification I have removed the danfoss unit and am bench testing it.
johncavil said
03:49 PM Jun 25, 2020
Debe: for clarification I have removed the danfoss unit and am bench testing it.
DeBe said
07:42 PM Jun 25, 2020
My board the 240V AC side was destroyed, so I removed most of the parts & only use it on 12V DC now. If you have 12V DC on the control box pins & bridge C & T, the compressor should run. If it doesn't run then the Control box is probably had it. Don't muck about with the 240V AC side of things. If it wont run on 12V DC then its unlikely to run on AC.
-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 25th of June 2020 07:46:38 PM
DeBe said
07:54 PM Jun 25, 2020
This is the block diagram of those units. The 240V AC is secondary to the operation. The 12/24V DC side is the primary part of the unit.
Morning all,
So I have managed to get the compressor running and have left it over night with a internal/external temp sensor but have found that it doesnt cool. I had it running for 10+ hrs but no luck.
If the compressor runs but no cooling would that mean that there is no gas left, would any body know what Id be looking at to have it pressure tested and refilled?
Cheers for your help
DeBe said
08:08 AM Jul 2, 2020
Most likely no gas. Depending where the leak is wheather its repairable. Refrigeration repairs are expensive these days, see portable fridges in the scrap yard all the time these days. Might be time to move on to a new one.
us8camping said
05:32 PM Jul 6, 2020
Hi DeBe.
i have the same fridge but different issue.
works ok 240 but no 12v.
i get the fridge light on, can select settings but has an orange flashing light.
i have done the steps on other threads..
i bridged the wires and the compressor ran.
12v and 5v on the board
whats the next option?
DeBe said
06:21 AM Jul 7, 2020
Count the number of flashes, that should be a fault code.
us8camping said
03:01 PM Jul 7, 2020
Thanks for that DeBe.
one flash, i did a quick google pointing to low voltage?
have checked the voltage coming into the danfross unit is the same volt as the battery 12.9.
I have also tried running wire direct from the battery into the unit with no success.
-- Edited by us8camping on Tuesday 7th of July 2020 08:55:34 PM
DeBe said
07:34 PM Jul 7, 2020
The only thing I can suggest is check the 12V power connectors on the board. The solder can develop small cracks around the pins. Re solder & check the other pins too.
First and foremost ensure 12V is getting to the fridge connector.
Next check any fuses the fridge may have - there may be one on the control PCB itself.
Next (seriously) lift the empty fridge 25mm from the floor and then drop it.
Next, with 12V applied, gently wiggle all wires and connectors you can find.
If none of the above produce an indication of the fault then you will need to find a technician to repair it or, and this may be a cheaper option, buy a new no-brand fridge from E-bay or the like - Jaycar currently have a range which look reasonable.
Good luck.
I can't help on the actual problem, if you haven't pulled the fridge apart, it's not a problem, there are internal images here of my CX28 which I have made changes. Pulled it apart about half a dozen times. Also put in a 7amp panel circuit breaker (not shown).
https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t65059593/extra-fridge-insulation-wattage-test/
My board the 240V AC side was destroyed, so I removed most of the parts & only use it on 12V DC now. If you have 12V DC on the control box pins & bridge C & T, the compressor should run. If it doesn't run then the Control box is probably had it. Don't muck about with the 240V AC side of things. If it wont run on 12V DC then its unlikely to run on AC.
-- Edited by DeBe on Thursday 25th of June 2020 07:46:38 PM
i have the same fridge but different issue.
works ok 240 but no 12v.
i get the fridge light on, can select settings but has an orange flashing light.
i have done the steps on other threads..
i bridged the wires and the compressor ran.
12v and 5v on the board
whats the next option?
Thanks for that DeBe.
one flash, i did a quick google pointing to low voltage?
have checked the voltage coming into the danfross unit is the same volt as the battery 12.9.
I have also tried running wire direct from the battery into the unit with no success.
-- Edited by us8camping on Tuesday 7th of July 2020 08:55:34 PM