I have a 2007 Ranger 3lt diesel turbo, 250.000 Klm on the clock.
I am currently using 5w 40 Nulon Full Synthetic, No smoke, But using a bit of oil, Looking to use a heaver oil,
Any suggestions,
Bowser.
Old and Grey said
08:48 PM Aug 25, 2020
Hi Bowser,
Any more Info Would Help.
20000km per year is not a lot. How often do you change your oil & Filter. 5w-40w is a good call. Try a 15w-40w in full syn.
I have done my own every 5000km in all my cars. My old Parado did 460,000km without a problem.
My 2012 200 Series GX has 146,000km. Does bugger all now, except long trips towing the van. Still I will change the oil every six months regardless.
Oils break down when mixed with fuel. And add the soot in the oil does it no good either.
Short trips Do Diesels motors no good either. They like to warm up and get used.
My GX takes minimum 4km just to get warm.
Grey
Tony Bev said
09:14 PM Aug 25, 2020
Hi Bowser
I use 10W-40 Nulon full synthetic oil (suitable for light duty diesel/petrol/LPG)
The specs on my Fiat 2.8 JTD turbo diesel engine says to use 5W-40
I feel that 5W-40 is just too light for my use, as I either travel in the summer, or head for the warmth in winter
It appears that some newer Nulon engine oils, do not mention diesel, only petrol/LPG, so it pays to read the container before buying
Jaahn said
08:15 AM Aug 26, 2020
Hi
Just a comment on the numbers for oils. The second number '40' is the 'thickness' of the oil when it is at working temperature. So if you want to run thicker oil then you need to get a higher number, say 50. The first number is the 'thickness' when the oil is cold and so the smaller numbers are useful for very cold weather, EG snowy areas etc, to get good circulation at startup. Indeed the number says 5W, meaning winter. But that should only matter for 5-10 minutes till the engine warms up to working temperature around Australia most places.
Note that all oils thin out as they get hotter, and they do not get 'thicker' at working temperature. The higher numbers means that they do thin out less than a 5W- 30.
Thinner oils are now used for better fuel consumption not longer engine life. Better quality oil like full synthetic is good for longer life and less oil use too in my experience.
"Synthetic oilis alubricantconsisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modifiedpetroleumcomponents rather than wholecrude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically. The actual synthesis process and composition of additives is generally a commercial trade secret and will vary among producers.[1]"
also ""Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality."
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 26th of August 2020 08:37:32 AM
Warren-Pat_01 said
04:17 PM Aug 27, 2020
G'day & thanks, Jaan,
"Thinner oils are now used for better fuel consumption not longer engine life. Better quality oil like full synthetic is good for longer life and less oil use too in my experience. cheers Jaahn"
So that is one thing my D-Max has in its favour - the grade of the engine oil!
My Nissan ran from the time of the previous owner at least on mineral oil 15-40 & I saw no reason to change that in the 182,000kms that I did in the car (the speedo read 453,000kms when I sold it & with the gas injection performed as well as a new car).
The D-Max uses full synthetic 15-40 - mainly due, I believe to it having a DPF fitted. Unlike other & often more common synthetic grades, there are few manufacturers of this oil (I think two - Castrol & Penrite), often making the oil harder to obtain & rarely "on special". However it the engine life is extended, it will be worth it in the long run.
bowser said
05:13 PM Aug 27, 2020
Thanks, Old and Grey,
I do a full change every Ten tho, I have spoken to a mech who suggested 10w 40, I will try that the I might move up to 15w 40.
Bowser.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:34 PM Aug 27, 2020
Diesel oils have more cleaning agents and zinc which is a lube additive helps on metal to metal parts . Try to use diesel spec oil
If possible ? They are designed to do their job with carbon Deposits in oil
Jaahn said
08:50 AM Aug 28, 2020
Aus-Kiwi wrote:
Diesel oils have more cleaning agents and zinc which is a lube additive helps on metal to metal parts . Try to use diesel spec oil If possible ? They are designed to do their job with carbon Deposits in oil
HI
Yes I agree that is correct.
However there is another factor to take into consideration. If your diesel vehicle has a DPF then you should be careful that you use an oil that is designed for low ash and is labled to do so. Otherwise you may clog the unit prematurely and cause much more expense. The same principle applies to petrol engines too, use a recommended oil type for your model to avoid problems.
Jaahn
Aus-Kiwi said
09:17 AM Aug 28, 2020
Correct Jaahn. The older engine builders use diesel oils in there muscle cars for the same reason . They have taken or reduced some of the friction modifiers out of their oils . I doubt its a big issue ? Unless your engine has oil burning issues !! The main thing is to replace your oil frequently!! Close family member make a good living repairing neglected engines !! They all blame the engines ! No its more the nut behind the wheel !!
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Friday 28th of August 2020 09:17:55 AM
Gundog said
02:48 PM Aug 28, 2020
bowser wrote:
Evening everyone.
I have a 2007 Ranger 3lt diesel turbo, 250.000 Klm on the clock.
I am currently using 5w 40 Nulon Full Synthetic, No smoke, But using a bit of oil, Looking to use a heaver oil,
Any suggestions,
Bowser.
The only oil for your Ranger should be 5w-30 full synthetic, using heavier will lead to engine wear and a possibility of a turbo blow up.
The Nulon FS maybe cheaper but Ford only specify 5w-30 or 0w-30 oils.
Aus-Kiwi said
05:09 PM Aug 28, 2020
With a few klrs on engine . It wont have issues . They have a variable oil pump in them . Ford or any manufacturer dont care after warranty period . Oil clearance ,passages are about small leaks in engine . Especially in summer I run a higher visc oil . If it going through oil ? I would check turbo seals etc ?? Short trips this time of the year . You get a build up of condensation in oil . Then on a long trip the condensation burns out . Making it seem like its burning oil .
swamp said
11:48 PM Aug 28, 2020
HI
GUN dog
Oils are ALL specified---- ambient temp vs oil viscosity
Early Ranger BT50 were specified with by Valvoline --Dura blend 10-40 semisynthetic . Once DPF appeared Valvoline synpower 10-30 or 5--30 was the recommended ,yes even for the earlier models .
FULL synthetic is 100% manmade POA/Ester types . Few retail oil brands have a wide range of FULL syn oils
All other so claimed retail oils are NOT synthetic even thou they claim as such . The retail oils use highly refined mineral base stock with additives .
Its a way for companies to get more profit .
In the USA Mobil 1 is offered at 5-8$ per ltr = real synthetic
Aus-Kiwi said
10:32 AM Aug 29, 2020
Yes a few years back I think it was Mobil ?? took another oil company to court . Saying their oil
Wasnt synthetic. It was ( lets say filtered). Tmk Mobil didnt exactly win ? As the filtered oil could be said to be syntheticated of sorts . Keep in mind the oil change method on these engines ! Dont drain them for too long . Drain and fill almost straight away .
Gundog said
10:40 AM Aug 29, 2020
swamp wrote:
HI GUN dog
Oils are ALL specified---- ambient temp vs oil viscosity Early Ranger BT50 were specified with by Valvoline --Dura blend 10-40 semisynthetic . Once DPF appeared Valvoline synpower 10-30 or 5--30 was the recommended ,yes even for the earlier models .
FULL synthetic is 100% manmade POA/Ester types . Few retail oil brands have a wide range of FULL syn oils All other so claimed retail oils are NOT synthetic even thou they claim as such . The retail oils use highly refined mineral base stock with additives . Its a way for companies to get more profit . In the USA Mobil 1 is offered at 5-8$ per ltr = real synthetic
From my Ford owners service guide Engine Oil SAE 5/10W-30 with specifications of API CD/CE/CF-4 OR ACED B1/B3/B5 Ford R1 530 5L.
WARNING Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions.
Do not use non-degtergent or API classes SC, SD, SE, SG or SH oils or additives.
One thing I have learnt over many years of motoring quoting a famous TV advert " Oils aint Oils Sol"
My 3ltr Ranger has a mere 220,000ks on the clock of which 40% is towing a 2.6t van.
About 4 years ago I had my ranger serviced at a major Ford Dealer in Adelaide, when the time came to pick up my ute and pay for the service, I asked what oil was used for the service, the service advisor promptly said 10w-40, to which I responded that is the wrong oil for my vehicle, after a moment of dispute the workshop manager was called, he said 10w-40 is ok, my response was to point out in the service book the correct oils, I demanded that the oil was to be drained and oil filter be replaced and the correct oil used, with me in attendance whilst the change was made.
Since that day before anybody services my Ranger I ask the question what oil is being used, I have only had one other suggest 10w-40.
Aus-Kiwi said
08:18 PM Aug 29, 2020
Why I service my own vehicles ! Could be any cheap oil .
swamp said
09:58 AM Sep 3, 2020
HI
Gun dog
U seem to be missing the point
Oil viscosity vs ambient temperature ITS WRITTEN IN ALL W/SHOP MANUALS
The recommendation u find in your owners manual is exactly that a RECOMMENDATION =guide
Picking a lower viscosity for a given temp places the oil closer to being worn out due to shear . Main reason why a high vis is specified for relevant oil temps .
Sounds like u have not read enough
As I have mentioned before oil companies and car makers shift the goalposts all the time . The only concern is with /without DPF + viscosity vs ambient + age of engine +full syn or semi syn .
Any oil introduced as 5/10--30 is an economy oil . Semi synthetics should be avoided as it breaks down quickly . Full synthetics only in this grade of oil . But u new this !!
Engine load [towing ] degrades oil viscosity as well .... to be expected
Evening everyone.
I have a 2007 Ranger 3lt diesel turbo, 250.000 Klm on the clock.
I am currently using 5w 40 Nulon Full Synthetic, No smoke, But using a bit of oil, Looking to use a heaver oil,
Any suggestions,
Bowser.
Hi Bowser,
Any more Info Would Help.
20000km per year is not a lot. How often do you change your oil & Filter. 5w-40w is a good call. Try a 15w-40w in full syn.
I have done my own every 5000km in all my cars. My old Parado did 460,000km without a problem.
My 2012 200 Series GX has 146,000km. Does bugger all now, except long trips towing the van. Still I will change the oil every six months regardless.
Oils break down when mixed with fuel. And add the soot in the oil does it no good either.
Short trips Do Diesels motors no good either. They like to warm up and get used.
My GX takes minimum 4km just to get warm.
Grey
I use 10W-40 Nulon full synthetic oil (suitable for light duty diesel/petrol/LPG)
The specs on my Fiat 2.8 JTD turbo diesel engine says to use 5W-40
I feel that 5W-40 is just too light for my use, as I either travel in the summer, or head for the warmth in winter
It appears that some newer Nulon engine oils, do not mention diesel, only petrol/LPG, so it pays to read the container before buying
Hi
Just a comment on the numbers for oils. The second number '40' is the 'thickness' of the oil when it is at working temperature. So if you want to run thicker oil then you need to get a higher number, say 50. The first number is the 'thickness' when the oil is cold and so the smaller numbers are useful for very cold weather, EG snowy areas etc, to get good circulation at startup. Indeed the number says 5W, meaning winter. But that should only matter for 5-10 minutes till the engine warms up to working temperature around Australia most places.
Note that all oils thin out as they get hotter, and they do not get 'thicker' at working temperature. The higher numbers means that they do thin out less than a 5W- 30.
Thinner oils are now used for better fuel consumption not longer engine life. Better quality oil like full synthetic is good for longer life and less oil use too in my experience.
cheers Jaahn
What is full synthetic oil ?? From Wikipedia ! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil All oils are not the same !
"Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made. Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. The base material, however, is still overwhelmingly crude oil that is distilled and then modified physically and chemically. The actual synthesis process and composition of additives is generally a commercial trade secret and will vary among producers.[1]"
also " "Full synthetic" is a marketing term and is not a measurable quality."
-- Edited by Jaahn on Wednesday 26th of August 2020 08:37:32 AM
"Thinner oils are now used for better fuel consumption not longer engine life. Better quality oil like full synthetic is good for longer life and less oil use too in my experience. cheers Jaahn"
So that is one thing my D-Max has in its favour - the grade of the engine oil!
My Nissan ran from the time of the previous owner at least on mineral oil 15-40 & I saw no reason to change that in the 182,000kms that I did in the car (the speedo read 453,000kms when I sold it & with the gas injection performed as well as a new car).
The D-Max uses full synthetic 15-40 - mainly due, I believe to it having a DPF fitted. Unlike other & often more common synthetic grades, there are few manufacturers of this oil (I think two - Castrol & Penrite), often making the oil harder to obtain & rarely "on special". However it the engine life is extended, it will be worth it in the long run.
Thanks, Old and Grey,
I do a full change every Ten tho, I have spoken to a mech who suggested 10w 40, I will try that the I might move up to 15w 40.
Bowser.
HI
Yes I agree that is correct.
However there is another factor to take into consideration. If your diesel vehicle has a DPF then you should be careful that you use an oil that is designed for low ash and is labled to do so. Otherwise you may clog the unit prematurely and cause much more expense. The same principle applies to petrol engines too, use a recommended oil type for your model to avoid problems.
Jaahn
Correct Jaahn. The older engine builders use diesel oils in there muscle cars for the same reason . They have taken or reduced some of the friction modifiers out of their oils . I doubt its a big issue ? Unless your engine has oil burning issues !! The main thing is to replace your oil frequently!! Close family member make a good living repairing neglected engines !! They all blame the engines ! No its more the nut behind the wheel !!
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Friday 28th of August 2020 09:17:55 AM
The only oil for your Ranger should be 5w-30 full synthetic, using heavier will lead to engine wear and a possibility of a turbo blow up.
The Nulon FS maybe cheaper but Ford only specify 5w-30 or 0w-30 oils.
GUN dog
Oils are ALL specified---- ambient temp vs oil viscosity
Early Ranger BT50 were specified with by Valvoline --Dura blend 10-40 semisynthetic . Once DPF appeared Valvoline synpower 10-30 or 5--30 was the recommended ,yes even for the earlier models .
FULL synthetic is 100% manmade POA/Ester types . Few retail oil brands have a wide range of FULL syn oils
All other so claimed retail oils are NOT synthetic even thou they claim as such . The retail oils use highly refined mineral base stock with additives .
Its a way for companies to get more profit .
In the USA Mobil 1 is offered at 5-8$ per ltr = real synthetic
Wasnt synthetic. It was ( lets say filtered). Tmk Mobil didnt exactly win ? As the filtered oil could be said to be syntheticated of sorts . Keep in mind the oil change method on these engines ! Dont drain them for too long . Drain and fill almost straight away .
From my Ford owners service guide Engine Oil SAE 5/10W-30 with specifications of API CD/CE/CF-4 OR ACED B1/B3/B5 Ford R1 530 5L.
WARNING Use of alternative oils may result in degraded performance, fuel economy and emissions.
Do not use non-degtergent or API classes SC, SD, SE, SG or SH oils or additives.
One thing I have learnt over many years of motoring quoting a famous TV advert " Oils aint Oils Sol"
My 3ltr Ranger has a mere 220,000ks on the clock of which 40% is towing a 2.6t van.
About 4 years ago I had my ranger serviced at a major Ford Dealer in Adelaide, when the time came to pick up my ute and pay for the service, I asked what oil was used for the service, the service advisor promptly said 10w-40, to which I responded that is the wrong oil for my vehicle, after a moment of dispute the workshop manager was called, he said 10w-40 is ok, my response was to point out in the service book the correct oils, I demanded that the oil was to be drained and oil filter be replaced and the correct oil used, with me in attendance whilst the change was made.
Since that day before anybody services my Ranger I ask the question what oil is being used, I have only had one other suggest 10w-40.
Gun dog
U seem to be missing the point
Oil viscosity vs ambient temperature ITS WRITTEN IN ALL W/SHOP MANUALS
The recommendation u find in your owners manual is exactly that a RECOMMENDATION =guide
Picking a lower viscosity for a given temp places the oil closer to being worn out due to shear . Main reason why a high vis is specified for relevant oil temps .
Sounds like u have not read enough
As I have mentioned before oil companies and car makers shift the goalposts all the time . The only concern is with /without DPF + viscosity vs ambient + age of engine +full syn or semi syn .
Any oil introduced as 5/10--30 is an economy oil . Semi synthetics should be avoided as it breaks down quickly . Full synthetics only in this grade of oil . But u new this !!
Engine load [towing ] degrades oil viscosity as well .... to be expected