In the process of replacing the condenser fan on the fridge (12v compressor type). Put the new fan on with the able outwards, started up and its pulling the air through the radiator. However because of the nature of the installation, I thought it would be better to push the air through the radiator. However after turning the fan around 180 degrees, there doesn't feel as though there is much air being forced through it. I have noticed a gap at the bottom of the condenser, and that the air maybe going through there choosing an easier route, I will have to make a baffle to block it off.
I don't suppose it makes any difference, but someone may know better?
KJB said
09:38 AM May 6, 2021
Back to basics first check - did you turn the fan incl. the motor around or just taken the fan blade off and turned it around on the shaft ........ ?
iana said
10:12 AM May 6, 2021
Turned the whole fan assembly around, the fan blade doesn't look like its removable, and the motor is unidirectional.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 6th of May 2021 10:16:51 AM
Make sure the radiator core is clean and for sure block any "leaks" in the shrouding - should work providing the motor is turning in the correct direction.
Most fan blades are "directional" (efficient turning one way and inefficient turning the other way ) - worth checking ....
A clear, unobstructed path for the air on inlet side and exhaust side is paramount as the pressure/flow of the fan is very low.
iana said
10:45 AM May 6, 2021
Radiator core is clean, there is an area, lower part of the core that is open, and I need to make up a cover to stop the air taking the easiest route. However I tend to agree about the pressure/flow point.
Mike196 said
11:17 AM May 6, 2021
Fans are usually more efficient pulling air thru the Rad, even more so with a shroud.
Whenarewethere said
11:34 AM May 6, 2021
My understanding is that computer fans work a bit better when there is free air flow into the fan, so about 50mm on the intake side of the fan. You need about twice the thickness of the fan.
But more cross sectional area would be more beneficial. I upgraded my fridges condenser fan from 92 to 120mm. It is lower wattage & pushes more air & has a higher pressure.
My twin air compressors' fan under the seat there was not a lot of options to place a fan but it is pushing air onto the compressors, a high volume fan which is pretty inefficient but as it only runs while the compressors are running it is not an issue.
Fan at right, & foreground compressor unclipped.
Third compressor with push & pull cooling.
The after cooler for my air compressors will be push fan setup, still a work in progress.
New aluminium bracket to replace 92mm fan with 120mm on the fridge.
Acoustic insulation to quieten fan & also to act as a baffle to stop air recirculating around the edges. The fan can now only draw air in from the outside of the fridge.
All the pink coloured fans I have added. So, front case fans push, 1st CPU push, between 1st & 2nd CPU push & pull, 2nd CPU pull, rear case fan pull. All the pink fans are set at a lower RPM, primarily in this situation so the dual CPU computer runs quietly, as well as the other half dozen computers. My UPS has both push & pull fans which I replaced with these same quieter fans.
You just have to look at each situation. Fridge needs a quiet, efficient, good air flow through condenser & overall air flow setup. Maybe a few baffles to control air flow will be more beneficial than the actual fan.
Dusting out the condenser after each trip with your air compressor will have even more benefit to cooling efficiency.
A bit buggered, fan circuit trips out with two fans running, and gives a fridge fault. Will have to explore the possibility of using a relay that draws an extremely low current. So its back to the drawing board.
In the process of replacing the condenser fan on the fridge (12v compressor type). Put the new fan on with the able outwards, started up and its pulling the air through the radiator. However because of the nature of the installation, I thought it would be better to push the air through the radiator. However after turning the fan around 180 degrees, there doesn't feel as though there is much air being forced through it. I have noticed a gap at the bottom of the condenser, and that the air maybe going through there choosing an easier route, I will have to make a baffle to block it off.
I don't suppose it makes any difference, but someone may know better?
Back to basics first check - did you turn the fan incl. the motor around or just taken the fan blade off and turned it around on the shaft ........ ?
Turned the whole fan assembly around, the fan blade doesn't look like its removable, and the motor is unidirectional.
-- Edited by iana on Thursday 6th of May 2021 10:16:51 AM
Make sure the radiator core is clean and for sure block any "leaks" in the shrouding - should work providing the motor is turning in the correct direction.
Most fan blades are "directional" (efficient turning one way and inefficient turning the other way ) - worth checking ....
A clear, unobstructed path for the air on inlet side and exhaust side is paramount as the pressure/flow of the fan is very low.
Fans are usually more efficient pulling air thru the Rad, even more so with a shroud.
My understanding is that computer fans work a bit better when there is free air flow into the fan, so about 50mm on the intake side of the fan. You need about twice the thickness of the fan.
But more cross sectional area would be more beneficial. I upgraded my fridges condenser fan from 92 to 120mm. It is lower wattage & pushes more air & has a higher pressure.
My twin air compressors' fan under the seat there was not a lot of options to place a fan but it is pushing air onto the compressors, a high volume fan which is pretty inefficient but as it only runs while the compressors are running it is not an issue.
Fan at right, & foreground compressor unclipped.
Third compressor with push & pull cooling.
The after cooler for my air compressors will be push fan setup, still a work in progress.
New aluminium bracket to replace 92mm fan with 120mm on the fridge.
Acoustic insulation to quieten fan & also to act as a baffle to stop air recirculating around the edges. The fan can now only draw air in from the outside of the fridge.
All the pink coloured fans I have added. So, front case fans push, 1st CPU push, between 1st & 2nd CPU push & pull, 2nd CPU pull, rear case fan pull. All the pink fans are set at a lower RPM, primarily in this situation so the dual CPU computer runs quietly, as well as the other half dozen computers. My UPS has both push & pull fans which I replaced with these same quieter fans.
You just have to look at each situation. Fridge needs a quiet, efficient, good air flow through condenser & overall air flow setup. Maybe a few baffles to control air flow will be more beneficial than the actual fan.
Dusting out the condenser after each trip with your air compressor will have even more benefit to cooling efficiency.