What are the most common auto electrical problems?
Young fella said
05:24 AM Sep 21, 2021
G'day nomads.
Thankyou all for the great advice on my last post in regards to phone reception while travelling! Since I got such great feedback I thought I would post another question seeking your wisdom!
What are the most common auto electric or car problems you have experienced when on the road? I've been talking to a few friends and they said mechanics in remote areas can get on the pricey side...
My thinking is getting some knowledge around fixing the most common problems so if I am remote I wont need an expensive tow or to call out a mechanic to fix minor issues.
Would love to know your thoughts and experiences.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Young fella
Radar said
07:18 AM Sep 21, 2021
Young fella wrote:
G'day nomads.
Thankyou all for the great advice on my last post in regards to phone reception while travelling! Since I got such great feedback I thought I would post another question seeking your wisdom!
What are the most common auto electric or car problems you have experienced when on the road? I've been talking to a few friends and they said mechanics in remote areas can get on the pricey side...
My thinking is getting some knowledge around fixing the most common problems so if I am remote I wont need an expensive tow or to call out a mechanic to fix minor issues.
Would love to know your thoughts and experiences.
Thanks again.
Cheers, Young fella
Hi.
I am not qualified at any trade, have enjoyed being a driver since I was 17 years old and needed my own wsdom to get out of trouble.
I carry with me in my box of tricks.
Electrical 12 volt test light (45 years old)
Multi meter, have someone show you the basic of how to use, write simple stuff down for reference.
Soldering iron, I am still learning to use it but I can, not with class. Don't forget the solder
Fuses. Check around your car and caravan for the right size fuses, carry just a few for emergencies.
Electrical tape, duct tape, 6 medium length zip tires, 6 of each Electrical connects (female, male yellow ones).
Crimping tool, side cutters, stanley knife.
In my electrical kit I have some very small spanners 6, 8, 10, 12ml.
With that lot I take on the world and most times I can get by until I get home for a better job.
Tony LEE said
07:28 AM Sep 21, 2021
Trouble is most cars now, you can't even see the engine let alone any part of the electrical system, especially given how much is on a data bus fed from computers.
Even the old "carry fan belts and radiator hoses" is just about obsolete.
The number of times I have jump started cars or given people blade fuses is out of hand.
A DC clampmeter is worth its weight in gold.
Mike Harding said
08:00 AM Sep 21, 2021
The most common electrical problem with vehicles is, and always has been, connectors.
I am an electronics engineer, I have designed vehicle systems, I have a modern vehicle, I have a full tool kit both electrical and mechanical and know how to use it - if my vehicle broke down with a non obvious fault I would spend no more than 30 minutes or so trying to fix it then I'd call the RACV.
Modern vehicle electronics are so complicated and their component parts so interdependent that unless one has both a good knowledge of that particular vehicle and the appropriate (electronic) diagnostic tools fault finding, in most instances, is all but impossible. Even the main dealers are often reduced to simply swapping modules for a known good unit as a guessing game.
I have now known two people who have sold their cars because multiple repairers, over some months, could not find intermittent electrical faults with them.
Fortunately modern electronics are very reliable (out to about 10 years anyway) that faults are rare.
As an electrical toolkit I suggest:
An Android (or iPad) tablet, a copy of Torque and a Bluetooth OBDII dongle
Roll of insulation tape
Selection of fuses
A length of wire (5m) of 2.5mm CSA or about 4mm OD
Combined wire cutter and stripper
Contact cleaning aerosol
Cheap multimeter with battery removed until needed
A strip of "ChocBlock" connectors
Top level cover in one of the motoring organisations
PeterD said
08:15 AM Sep 21, 2021
Young fella wrote:What are the most common auto electric or car problems you have experienced when on the road? I've been talking to a few friends and they said mechanics in remote areas can get on the pricey side...
I find the most common problems are the ones you don't expect to fail. At least, they are the ones that box you up.
Aus-Kiwi said
09:44 AM Sep 21, 2021
Mostly connections or lose loom
, breaking connections . Water, corrosion with different metals . Yes can happen ! Copper onto alloy .
Possum3 said
09:58 AM Sep 21, 2021
Most common?
1. Connection between car and Trailer/Caravan - Loose wiring dirty connection plugs - Wiring too light for purpose.
2. Blown fuses - overloading circuit/s - wiring too light for purpose.
3. Damaged cabling underneath van - rocks and water ingress.
4. Battery/s flat - Faulty battery, insufficient solar input (cloudy/rainy days).
5. Faulty gauges etc - usually terminal faults.
6. Solar Panel - wiring and attachment to vehicle.
7. Faulty cable termination; Modern vans wired by low skill assemblers, often termination is by only twisting wires together, not crimped or soldered.
Generally all cabling in modern caravans is minimum standard (if at all to Standard) - all electrical fitments the same poor quality. Modern LED lighting has reduced the need to replace globes, etc - If van still has any old 12V lights change to LED (longer lasting, brighter, less current draw).
Always carry; Test lamp, Multimeter, electrical screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat blade), long and short nose radio pliers, very small spanners and 150mm crescent wrench (shifter), insulation tape, Water dispersant spray, spare fuses and globes, small tubes of contact adhesive and silicon caulking, super glue, anderson plugs, small rolls cabling, cable ties (note these are temporary fix). Cable crimps and end terminals plus crimping tool.
Young fella said
03:42 PM Sep 21, 2021
Thanks a heap everyone!
Will definitely take note of these!
Scubadoo said
10:04 PM Sep 21, 2021
We have been lucky over the years.
25 odd years of Hiace van campers followed by our current 7 year stint with a Misti Canter based motorhome.
I honestly can't think of a single auto electrical issue despite some major solar, battery, component etc. modifications. A couple of brake light replacements excluded. It all keeps on working.
Touch wood.
Tony LEE said
09:37 AM Sep 22, 2021
Mike, you forgot to add mobile phone to your list
Whenarewethere said
10:03 AM Sep 22, 2021
If you are trying to save weight & only want one set of wire cutters. Parrot cutters although a bit more difficult to use precisely for wire stripping, are great for cutting fencing wire caught up under the car.
Aus-Kiwi said
10:13 AM Sep 22, 2021
Lets not forget wire size !! Most including manufacturers fit just big enough wire size ! So adding anything extra without a relay is looking for trouble . Even some auto electricians fit wires too small !! Trouble is no one really knows what is going to be fitted in future ! A coffee machine, different elect jug etc even though gas is the better ? Then some just dont understand load rattings and plug everything in ! Toaster, elect jug , frying pan, microwave and wander why things go bad !! Good ole circuit breaker keeps things from getting out of control !!
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 10:14:35 AM
Whenarewethere said
10:35 AM Sep 22, 2021
I pulled apart the fuse box in my Land Rover to see what's inside, I wouldn't recommend it as once you stuff it up you will probably need to buy a new one & get it coded to the car at great expense.
The accessory circuits go through here, so do not overload them. If you need more amps use a relay triggered via the accessory circuit & run a separate cable.
One on the plugs, really well designed.
Mike Harding said
01:38 PM Sep 22, 2021
Whenarewethere:
Photograph 1 = 252 kilobytes
Photograph 2 = 326 kilobytes
Photograph 3 = 70 kilobytes
Photograph 4 = 107 kilobytes
Why did you post those four photographs?
1 - It was a totally pointless response to this thread and added nothing
2 - You have posted them before
3 - I pay by byte on a slow internet connection as, unlike you, I am not in the inner city with broadband
4 - Many nomads will be in my situation with slow expensive internet
5 - Everyone else manages to explain themselves without posting gigabytes of photographs, why can't you?
6 - If you *really* think you *need* to post a photograph put it on a bloody website and post a link here
Whenarewethere said
01:47 PM Sep 22, 2021
It's why I squash them down in Photoshop instead of posting 50 megapixel 16bit photos.
I am on a prepay 80gb for 12 months $150 the cheapest pre pay I can find.
Please let me know what if there is a cheaper option. Thank you.
valiant81 said
05:06 PM Sep 22, 2021
Hi all; Whenarewethere, Those photos one looks like a fuse block,and the other more like the engine management computer for your car. Major and minor I:C's and a microprocessor to boot. A fair bit of electronics in there !! Notice the water proof coating over the componence. Two boards in the one housing as well. Arr, the joys of modern electronic in cars !!
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:08:57 PM
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:10:15 PM
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:12:13 PM
Whenarewethere said
05:51 PM Sep 22, 2021
The photos are of the one fuse box guts with front & rear covers removed, that was a bit of a challenge the way the locking clips were designed. They were basically designed to clip together once. If the fuse box fails, it gets chucked out.
I was interested to see what's inside, but I was a bit concerned I might end up with a dead car. But I like to see how things work. What is the point of being here!
Front photo where the blade fuses plug in & 3 wiring loom plugs.
Back photo with 3 more wiring loom plugs.
Edge photo to show 3 layers of circuit boards which cannot be pulled apart unless you desolder the 3 boards, which has 2 more wiring loom plugs out the bottom edge.
So 8 wiring loom plugs in total into this one fuse box.
There is also the main distribution fuse box in the engine bay. A minor fuse box in the boot which actually powers some pretty key parts of the car. Between the two fire walls there is a box of tricks to run the engine.
This car had its wiring totally redesigned in 2012 from the original 2007 model. Bodywork basically still the same, but electrical, it's totally different. Has a 180amp alternator.
So don't overload circuits as they are printed. If you need more power for accessories be extremely careful how you wire things up.
markf said
10:39 PM Sep 22, 2021
Mike Harding wrote:
The most common electrical problem with vehicles is, and always has been, connectors.
I<deletia>
Top level cover in one of the motoring organisations
RACV Total Care is the bees knees if you're in VIC. We've used it twice in the last few months and they looked after us incredibly well. Once in Newman WA and once about 115 km's from home.
Because I drive a British car I tend to be plagued by Lucas (Prince of Darkness) connectors failing to connect. A handful of suitable connectors, wire cutters and strippers as well as a good quality crimping tool can see me right. Except when the dreaded red plug (ECU connector) gets full of oil which can result in a hole range of problems. Very rarely does the actual cabling go belly up. Connectors and bad joins are the usual culprit in my experience.
Some sort of diagnostic tool can also be a great help. Especially with "red plug" issues. Also a cheap DC clamp / multimeter is well worth taking along as well as a test lamp. It goes without saying that a handful of relevant fuses should also be in the box of "electrical bits".
Old and Grey said
09:40 AM Oct 8, 2021
Hi Young feller,
The Heart of the total system. The power plant son, the Battery. Carry a good set of HD jumper leads and know how to use them.
The number of times, people have walked up to me at boat ramps after leaving their lights on, in a rush to get on the water.
Others who run down the battery running camping fridges over a number of days.
A little tip here: Before trying to jump start the dead vehicle, with the engine running, leave the leads connected for a good 5 minutes before trying to start them. Your system will put just a bit of a charge back into their/ your battery.Will make jumping much easier, if the other starting vehicle is a small unit.
They see me with a 200 cruiser and make a bee line for me. My leads are fully soldered at both ends of the terminals to give full juice. 2x 860CCA batteries down under helps out in my unit.
Regards Grey
Young fella said
04:53 PM Oct 12, 2021
Haha sounds like a plan...
Thanks for the advice mate!
Whenarewethere said
05:19 PM Oct 12, 2021
Don't running accessories off the starter battery.
If you want to listen to the car radio when remote. Don't. Use a portable radio.
When remote pull out pointless footwell globes & other pointless globes.
If camping next to the car & you are near the car during the day, only close the doors to the first catch. It stops the car cycling through a pre startup procedure every time you open a door. Which is a drain on the battery. You will be surprised just how many times one opens a car door... then a flat battery.
Cuppa said
11:32 AM Oct 13, 2021
Very useful for fault finding is a good length (7 metres) of twin core cable with crocodile clips on both ends.
PeterD said
11:45 AM Oct 13, 2021
Cuppa wrote:
Very useful for fault finding is a good length (7 metres) of twin core cable with crocodile clips on both ends.
My handy piece of wire is 5 metres of hookup wire with a crock clip one end and a banana plug the other. I use it as one leaf for my multimeter. When I am checking for voltage drops I can check most things as I am working away from the battery in the tug to anywhere on the van.
Tony Bev said
12:13 PM Oct 13, 2021
Hi Young fella
Unfortunately there are no (one size fits all), common electrical problems, as all vehicles are different
It is true that away from the populated areas, everything (including mechanics) is more expensive
I would be carrying (if you can obtain one), a workshop manual for your vehicle, just to give yourself a basic idea, when trying to make temporary repairs
I would also go onto a forum of your (vehicle/caravan/RV), to see what problems do occur, and sometimes how to overcome them
As others have already said, a lot of electrical problems, start at the battery/wires/fuses/etc
Before Covid-19 came along, a person could politely ask other travellers, to help them out
Not sure what the new normal will be in the future, but I notice in WA, (where we are still free to travel), we seem to be congregating a lot less, in the free camps
Whenarewethere said
02:28 PM Oct 13, 2021
Tony Bev wrote:
Before Covid-19 came along, a person could politely ask other travellers, to help them out
Not sure what the new normal will be in the future, but I notice in WA, (where we are still free to travel), we seem to be congregating a lot less, in the free camps
People are getting more anxious. It started with mobile phones. With Covid I think there will be a compounding level of insecurity. More people won't ask for help & others will drive on avoiding you like the plague.
G'day nomads.
Thankyou all for the great advice on my last post in regards to phone reception while travelling! Since I got such great feedback I thought I would post another question seeking your wisdom!
What are the most common auto electric or car problems you have experienced when on the road? I've been talking to a few friends and they said mechanics in remote areas can get on the pricey side...
My thinking is getting some knowledge around fixing the most common problems so if I am remote I wont need an expensive tow or to call out a mechanic to fix minor issues.
Would love to know your thoughts and experiences.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Young fella
Hi.
I am not qualified at any trade, have enjoyed being a driver since I was 17 years old and needed my own wsdom to get out of trouble.
I carry with me in my box of tricks.
Electrical 12 volt test light (45 years old)
Multi meter, have someone show you the basic of how to use, write simple stuff down for reference.
Soldering iron, I am still learning to use it but I can, not with class. Don't forget the solder
Fuses. Check around your car and caravan for the right size fuses, carry just a few for emergencies.
Electrical tape, duct tape, 6 medium length zip tires, 6 of each Electrical connects (female, male yellow ones).
Crimping tool, side cutters, stanley knife.
In my electrical kit I have some very small spanners 6, 8, 10, 12ml.
With that lot I take on the world and most times I can get by until I get home for a better job.
Flat starter battery & overloaded accessory circuits.
The number of times I have jump started cars or given people blade fuses is out of hand.
A DC clampmeter is worth its weight in gold.
The most common electrical problem with vehicles is, and always has been, connectors.
I am an electronics engineer, I have designed vehicle systems, I have a modern vehicle, I have a full tool kit both electrical and mechanical and know how to use it - if my vehicle broke down with a non obvious fault I would spend no more than 30 minutes or so trying to fix it then I'd call the RACV.
Modern vehicle electronics are so complicated and their component parts so interdependent that unless one has both a good knowledge of that particular vehicle and the appropriate (electronic) diagnostic tools fault finding, in most instances, is all but impossible. Even the main dealers are often reduced to simply swapping modules for a known good unit as a guessing game.
I have now known two people who have sold their cars because multiple repairers, over some months, could not find intermittent electrical faults with them.
Fortunately modern electronics are very reliable (out to about 10 years anyway) that faults are rare.
As an electrical toolkit I suggest:
An Android (or iPad) tablet, a copy of Torque and a Bluetooth OBDII dongle
Roll of insulation tape
Selection of fuses
A length of wire (5m) of 2.5mm CSA or about 4mm OD
Combined wire cutter and stripper
Contact cleaning aerosol
Cheap multimeter with battery removed until needed
A strip of "ChocBlock" connectors
Top level cover in one of the motoring organisations
I find the most common problems are the ones you don't expect to fail. At least, they are the ones that box you up.
, breaking connections . Water, corrosion with different metals . Yes can happen ! Copper onto alloy .
1. Connection between car and Trailer/Caravan - Loose wiring dirty connection plugs - Wiring too light for purpose.
2. Blown fuses - overloading circuit/s - wiring too light for purpose.
3. Damaged cabling underneath van - rocks and water ingress.
4. Battery/s flat - Faulty battery, insufficient solar input (cloudy/rainy days).
5. Faulty gauges etc - usually terminal faults.
6. Solar Panel - wiring and attachment to vehicle.
7. Faulty cable termination; Modern vans wired by low skill assemblers, often termination is by only twisting wires together, not crimped or soldered.
Generally all cabling in modern caravans is minimum standard (if at all to Standard) - all electrical fitments the same poor quality. Modern LED lighting has reduced the need to replace globes, etc - If van still has any old 12V lights change to LED (longer lasting, brighter, less current draw).
Always carry; Test lamp, Multimeter, electrical screwdrivers (Phillips and Flat blade), long and short nose radio pliers, very small spanners and 150mm crescent wrench (shifter), insulation tape, Water dispersant spray, spare fuses and globes, small tubes of contact adhesive and silicon caulking, super glue, anderson plugs, small rolls cabling, cable ties (note these are temporary fix). Cable crimps and end terminals plus crimping tool.
Will definitely take note of these!
If you are trying to save weight & only want one set of wire cutters. Parrot cutters although a bit more difficult to use precisely for wire stripping, are great for cutting fencing wire caught up under the car.
Lets not forget wire size !! Most including manufacturers fit just big enough wire size ! So adding anything extra without a relay is looking for trouble . Even some auto electricians fit wires too small !! Trouble is no one really knows what is going to be fitted in future ! A coffee machine, different elect jug etc even though gas is the better ? Then some just dont understand load rattings and plug everything in ! Toaster, elect jug , frying pan, microwave and wander why things go bad !! Good ole circuit breaker keeps things from getting out of control !!
-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 10:14:35 AM
I pulled apart the fuse box in my Land Rover to see what's inside, I wouldn't recommend it as once you stuff it up you will probably need to buy a new one & get it coded to the car at great expense.
The accessory circuits go through here, so do not overload them. If you need more amps use a relay triggered via the accessory circuit & run a separate cable.
One on the plugs, really well designed.
Whenarewethere:
Photograph 1 = 252 kilobytes
Photograph 2 = 326 kilobytes
Photograph 3 = 70 kilobytes
Photograph 4 = 107 kilobytes
Why did you post those four photographs?
1 - It was a totally pointless response to this thread and added nothing
2 - You have posted them before
3 - I pay by byte on a slow internet connection as, unlike you, I am not in the inner city with broadband
4 - Many nomads will be in my situation with slow expensive internet
5 - Everyone else manages to explain themselves without posting gigabytes of photographs, why can't you?
6 - If you *really* think you *need* to post a photograph put it on a bloody website and post a link here
It's why I squash them down in Photoshop instead of posting 50 megapixel 16bit photos.
I am on a prepay 80gb for 12 months $150 the cheapest pre pay I can find.
Please let me know what if there is a cheaper option. Thank you.
Hi all; Whenarewethere, Those photos one looks like a fuse block,and the other more like the engine management computer for your car. Major and minor I:C's and a microprocessor to boot. A fair bit of electronics in there !! Notice the water proof coating over the componence. Two boards in the one housing as well. Arr, the joys of modern electronic in cars !!
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:08:57 PM
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:10:15 PM
-- Edited by valiant81 on Wednesday 22nd of September 2021 05:12:13 PM
The photos are of the one fuse box guts with front & rear covers removed, that was a bit of a challenge the way the locking clips were designed. They were basically designed to clip together once. If the fuse box fails, it gets chucked out.
I was interested to see what's inside, but I was a bit concerned I might end up with a dead car. But I like to see how things work. What is the point of being here!
Front photo where the blade fuses plug in & 3 wiring loom plugs.
Back photo with 3 more wiring loom plugs.
Edge photo to show 3 layers of circuit boards which cannot be pulled apart unless you desolder the 3 boards, which has 2 more wiring loom plugs out the bottom edge.
So 8 wiring loom plugs in total into this one fuse box.
There is also the main distribution fuse box in the engine bay. A minor fuse box in the boot which actually powers some pretty key parts of the car. Between the two fire walls there is a box of tricks to run the engine.
This car had its wiring totally redesigned in 2012 from the original 2007 model. Bodywork basically still the same, but electrical, it's totally different. Has a 180amp alternator.
So don't overload circuits as they are printed. If you need more power for accessories be extremely careful how you wire things up.
RACV Total Care is the bees knees if you're in VIC. We've used it twice in the last few months and they looked after us incredibly well. Once in Newman WA and once about 115 km's from home.
Because I drive a British car I tend to be plagued by Lucas (Prince of Darkness) connectors failing to connect. A handful of suitable connectors, wire cutters and strippers as well as a good quality crimping tool can see me right. Except when the dreaded red plug (ECU connector) gets full of oil which can result in a hole range of problems. Very rarely does the actual cabling go belly up. Connectors and bad joins are the usual culprit in my experience.
Some sort of diagnostic tool can also be a great help. Especially with "red plug" issues. Also a cheap DC clamp / multimeter is well worth taking along as well as a test lamp. It goes without saying that a handful of relevant fuses should also be in the box of "electrical bits".
Hi Young feller,
The Heart of the total system. The power plant son, the Battery. Carry a good set of HD jumper leads and know how to use them.
The number of times, people have walked up to me at boat ramps after leaving their lights on, in a rush to get on the water.
Others who run down the battery running camping fridges over a number of days.
A little tip here: Before trying to jump start the dead vehicle, with the engine running, leave the leads connected for a good 5 minutes before trying to start them. Your system will put just a bit of a charge back into their/ your battery.Will make jumping much easier, if the other starting vehicle is a small unit.
They see me with a 200 cruiser and make a bee line for me. My leads are fully soldered at both ends of the terminals to give full juice. 2x 860CCA batteries down under helps out in my unit.
Regards Grey
Haha sounds like a plan...
Thanks for the advice mate!
Don't running accessories off the starter battery.
If you want to listen to the car radio when remote. Don't. Use a portable radio.
When remote pull out pointless footwell globes & other pointless globes.
If camping next to the car & you are near the car during the day, only close the doors to the first catch. It stops the car cycling through a pre startup procedure every time you open a door. Which is a drain on the battery. You will be surprised just how many times one opens a car door... then a flat battery.
Very useful for fault finding is a good length (7 metres) of twin core cable with crocodile clips on both ends.
My handy piece of wire is 5 metres of hookup wire with a crock clip one end and a banana plug the other. I use it as one leaf for my multimeter. When I am checking for voltage drops I can check most things as I am working away from the battery in the tug to anywhere on the van.
Unfortunately there are no (one size fits all), common electrical problems, as all vehicles are different
It is true that away from the populated areas, everything (including mechanics) is more expensive
I would be carrying (if you can obtain one), a workshop manual for your vehicle, just to give yourself a basic idea, when trying to make temporary repairs
I would also go onto a forum of your (vehicle/caravan/RV), to see what problems do occur, and sometimes how to overcome them
As others have already said, a lot of electrical problems, start at the battery/wires/fuses/etc
Before Covid-19 came along, a person could politely ask other travellers, to help them out
Not sure what the new normal will be in the future, but I notice in WA, (where we are still free to travel), we seem to be congregating a lot less, in the free camps
People are getting more anxious. It started with mobile phones. With Covid I think there will be a compounding level of insecurity. More people won't ask for help & others will drive on avoiding you like the plague.