Your panels will only put out a small ampage A typical 80-watt panel has an operating voltage of 17.8 volts that delivers 4.5 amps (watts = volts x amps) in industry standard conditions
The 40 watt solar panel has an output of 2.4 amps of DC power during peak solar hours.
-- Edited by gst on Sunday 11th of November 2012 04:08:28 PM
-- Edited by gst on Sunday 11th of November 2012 04:12:12 PM
5.7 amps before the controller, can,t get a good reading on the battey side as it would cook the multimeter. I need a bhigher reading ammeter.It shows 17.8v on the panel side.I suppose I should disconnect the battery to check the output on the controller side.Bill
-- Edited by bill12 on Sunday 11th of November 2012 05:09:26 PM
I wonder if anybody know of a solar panel regulater that you can manually adjust the current or valtage going into your batterys?My one stays the same valtage no matter what draw I put on the batterys. Very strange if you ask me.I have a cm3024z so called "smart " regulater, and I don,t think you can adjust them. Any thoughts. Thanks Bill
you can most likely go into the menu and step up the voltage but why would you want too. If your batteries are maintaining about 13.5 volts all is good. I had trouble with my last regulator and the buttons didnt work right and accidently set to 15 volts and it did start to heat the batteries rather quick. cheers blaze
The regulator should adjust the voltage depending on the type of battery and the current state of charge. The amperage delivered will depend on how much is available from the solar panels and the rate of acceptance by the batteries.
"Smart" chargers work all of this out. If you increase the voltage beyond what is required, you will 'fry' the batteries. First step it to check the battery manufacturer's data (it will vary depending on the battery type) and to ensure that the regulator is set accordingly.
The batterys seem to go on about 12.8 v, but charge better from the alternater than the panels.I have a 120 amp/hr deep cycle, and a 120 amp/hr n70zz starting battery with a rotary battery switch.I have tried to adjust the valtage with no sucess.Should I have a deep cycle and a starting battery in the same system? both are brand new batterys. Bill
You may have a buggered controller Bill, If you have a multimeter set it to amps and put it inline before the controlller and that will check panel output and then put in line after the contoler to check the controler cheers blaze
5.7 amps before the controller, can,t get a good reading on the battey side as it would cook the multimeter. I need a bhigher reading ammeter.It shows 17.8v on the panel side.I suppose I should disconnect the battery to check the output on the controller side.Bill
-- Edited by bill12 on Sunday 11th of November 2012 05:09:26 PM
Hi Bill
It is a PWM reg
the amps on the battery side SHOULD be the same as on the input side
I down loaded a manual but its in chinglish. Its a cm 30 I bought about 12 months ago, and never seemed to work right. I will check the amps on the battery side tmrow. Bill
A couple of comments:- 1. If the controller is at the solar panels and your'e leads are long/insufficient amperage or both, you could be having significant losses in the leads. Best to mount the regulator close to the batteries if possible. 2. Some regulators have an adjustable setting for the particular type of battery you are charging: AGM's require a highr voltage than lead acid. 3. If you do have to buy a new regulator, apparently an MPPT type is best.
A couple of comments: - 1. If the controller is at the solar panels and youre leads are long/insufficient amperage or both, you could be having significant losses in the leads. Best to mount the regulator close to the batteries if possible. 2. Some regulators have an adjustable setting for the particular type of battery you are charging: AGM's require a higher voltage than lead acid. 3. If you do have to buy a new regulator, apparently an MPPT type is best.
Hope this helps,
Are you sure item 2 is correct as my 30amp controller/charger manual states that maximum charging as follow: - Gel batteries 14.4 volts, Lead-Acid batteries 14.7volts. And I have to set it accordingly.
Maintenance charging voltage is 13.8volts
-- Edited by patrolst on Tuesday 13th of November 2012 07:04:54 PM
-- Edited by patrolst on Tuesday 13th of November 2012 07:08:03 PM
If you download the manual you will find it is not a very smart "smart regulator." It looks like a Plasmatronics or Steca regulator but that's where the similarity ends. The technical data only lists a float voltage (13.8 V.) There are no instructions in the document for user setting of any voltages. I'm afraid the OP has been sold a pup (what often happens when dealing through Evilbay.)
Bill, you are correct in what you say in your orginal and subsequent posts. This unit will only float batteries, not charge them in a timely manner so you will not get a good charge on your batteries. If you like that style of controller I suggest you don't skimp and get a Plasmatronicd Dingo. There are also plenty of other models that are good but I suggest you keep clear of the Chinese clones.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.