Gibb River Road, WA

Dunmowin · Guru

Gibb River Road, WA

Nomad246 · Senior Member

We can thourghly recommend Gibb River Road. It's been a few years since we did the trek but went east to west. That way after 8 weeks in the bush we got marvellous sea feeds at Derby.

Some things may have changed since our time but we visited El Questro, Jacks Water Hole to name a few. Careful with your tyres, we didn't get a puncture however saw 1 fella that had 6. Also an over turned tour bus trailer.

The area is terrific

Pic is river ford on El Questro Station

Cheers

Dunmowin · Guru

What were you towing? Appears to be a camper trailer. Any thoughts on off road caravans. WE have heard had mixed reviews

Nomad246 · Senior Member

It's an off road trailer.

Road conditions can change due to grading/traffic etc, best to check closer to your time of travel. Mostly the GRR is flat with no problems towing, water crossings were fine (unless it rained) and we found the road surface corrigated and really sharp rocks, hence my comment on tyres. We always travelled with full recovery gear and never used it on the GRR. There is no issues with breakover angles on the main track, tour buses use it.

There are side tracks that would not be ok for vans but you could always unhitch.

We found the GRR not much different to drive than the Tanami Track. The Oodnadatta Track could be called a bit more of a highway.

One place I would not tow your Kedron is into the Bungle Bungles, that is definite offroad trailer tracks.

I'd tow your Kedron on the GRR, but I'd take tyre spares as a precaution. (mind you we didn't have a puncture). Only thing is that is a long road with no food shops, so to be too long out there requires a very very long drive to stock up the pantry. We did 8 weeks on the GRR and did we look forward to fresh food toward the end, but you can catch a fish or 2 along the way.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Dunmowin · Guru

You are not wrong when you say the Oodna is a bit of a highway. But we did no see many caravans there either.

Our tow vehicle and van are tyred alike, and we carry three spares, and full recovery gear. Did not use recovery gear, but did have a split in one of the tyres, which Adam Plate told us was due to under inflation. Which was a bit rich, as he recommends you reduce the pressure on the track.

We have a good sized fridge on board, plus our engle, so are OK for storage of frozen goods, but agree, you do eventually have the urge for a fresh lettuce and tomato sandwich on fresh bread. Carry 300 litres of water on the van, have one extra jerry can, but will probably get a couple more to carry in the 4wd.

Is that a guarantee that you can catch fish on the way? We have not had much luck anywhere since we left Brisbane in July 2011!

thanks for your advice

Gerty Dancer · Guru

In 2010 we went out with our tent to El Questro from the Eastern end, and from Derby at the other end we went out to Windjana Gorge. Fantastic scenery, but crowds and crowds of people in all types of tents, camper-trailers and off-road vans. Negative stories that we heard were about the traffic, people travelling too fast and over-taking in the dust. There were lots of families, less people our age.
It was school hols, so definitely avoid that time!.

The road into the Bungles is definitely 4WD, take a tent, its well worth it!

Nomad246 · Senior Member

At El Questro we had barramundi str8 from the river. Jacks Water Hole is also a fishing spot, as well as other places. I'm not a fisherman and proficient at drowning live bait but did see 1 on my rod. Up there tho. if the fish aren't biting just grab a passer by, throw them in the water and shoot the croc. Get a feed and a new pair of croc skin boots at the same time.

We could get some provisions and fuel along the GRR but not a lot of fresh food. Water should not be a problem as long as you have some filtering.

I carried 3 spares also along with the tubes and bead breakers and compressor etc. Actually in all the off road I've done, I've only used my recover gear on someone else up near Mt Sterling man from snowy hut. Only time when I have been recovered was during a traing course years ago and I learnt a valuable lesson.

GRR, you'll need to go to Emma Gorge, Zibadee Hot springs, Jacks Waterhole and many other wonderful places. Just looked at the website www.elquestro.com.au , looks like it's really moved forward since we were there.

Seeing you're set up for it, one of many other places to go is Lawn Hill Park, Adels Grove. www.adelsgrove.com.au ,, on the other side of the country, but well worth a trip.

Cheers

Firefly · Guru

We did the Gibb twice. Spat out at Derby the first time and were so impressed, we went back through.

We travelled all the way to Mitchell Falls but didn't tow. Some friends followed towing a camper trailer and we went about 15klms past I think it was Drysdale Station. We turned around and headed back. When we left them we decided to give it a go in our Hilux.

It wasn't pleasant, I really hated the road and the corrugations. When we reached Mitchell Plateau, the only van in there ended up being a Bushtracker. He got out of his car and took to the steps with a sledge hammer as he had damaged them on the way in.

It was an amazingly beautiful place, just overly corrugated at that time.

The rest of the road was stunning and we will go back for sure, when we get either a 'tracker or a Kedron. wink

jimricho · Guru

High air pressure is a killer of tyres on roads with sharp rocks. Several years ago the tyre dealer in Birdsville told me to run the tyres at no more than 28-30 psi. I've had this confirmed by other tyre experts.

Obviously one needs to adjust their maximum speed to allow for the lower pressure and to restore them to normal pressure when returning to the black stuff.

aussietraveller · Guru

Dont know for sure but have been told that they are bitumen sealing the Gibb River road about 50-100 KLM per year, I last travelled it in 1979 and it was so rough it was better to walk than drive but was a lot younger and sillier then, we took five days and visited each side track finding some fantastic places along the way our trip started at the Derby end and fortunately didn't get a puncture. As others have said best if recently graded and no recent rain.

Dunmowin · Guru

Thanks all for your varied but interesting comments, which we have taken on board. All going well, we will be looking to do it after the wet next year, however, no fixed time frame. If we have to wait til the following year, so be it.

Magga · Newbie

I know the KImberley very well and I have travelled most parts of the GRR several times a year over the last few years (work related) and can offer the following tips.
* always check closer to the time because conditions change quite dramatically depending on rain and traffic.
* definitely avoid GRR unless it is dry.
* if early season travel the depth of Pentecost and Durak rivers can be an issue - particularly the Durak's. The department of main roads has information at the start of the GRR as to which section of the road are open or closed, but that does not necessarily take into account pulling vans through too deep water. I am hearing that as of yesterday GRR was dry and OK - see https://www.mainroads.wa.gov.au/AboutMainRoads/OurRoleRegions/Kimberley/Pages/works-traffic-conditions.aspx
* watch ALL creek crossing on the way - usually sharp dips and possibility of holes under water you cannot see - walking pace only thru those
* some dips are OK for a car but might need slow approach with pulling a van
* they have done major improvements to the road east of El Questro, they have sealed most of the "jump ups" and realigned most of the road at the western end to Imintji.
* it is still corrugated in parts but not bad. just take it easy. if freshly graded, it tempts too many people to drive too fast and there have been many rollovers and fatalities. DO NOT speed.

Other than that, with the usual precautions - lowered tyre pressure, sensible driving and taking it easy - it's fine for an off road van.

Only fuel is at ElQuestro, Mt Barnett (both diesel and unleaded) and Imintji (only diesel).
Only basic food supplies at Mt Barnett and Imintji.

Forget taking van into the Bungle. DEC (Department of Environment and Conservation) do not allow vans in Purnululu NP - not yet anyway. For trailers no problem at all. If you wanted to go Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) NP - which I would highly recommend - I suggest parking van (secure) just inside the gates at the beginning of the track where there is a new caravan park (fairly basic but OK). The alternative would be Warmun (Turkey Creek). There is also a free camp just off the highway, just west of the turn off to Purnululu but security would be an issue with vans left there unattended.
Allow 2.5 hrs to cover the 53Km. The road is not bad but just slow as it is very winding and there are a lot of creek crossings - mainly dry.

The ultimate would be to stay overnight at APT's Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge and have two days in the park.
If you are short of time, there are scenic flights from Kununurra, and also "fly-drive" (flight and ground touring) day or two/three day trips. Flying and ground touring is exponentially better than the basic scenic flight and definitely worth the extra money.

Just DO NOT leave the Kimberley without seeing the Bungle Bungle. It is a 7+ star destination.
Windjana Gorge is a must too and there is good basic camping there and road is fine (watch creeks and dips)

El Questro camp site is great, and there is a great camp site at Home Valley Station too. Good camp site by the river at APT's Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge too (only 20 sites or so but great facilities).

Hope this helps

Happy travel

jules47 · The Happy Helper

What a great post Magga - and welcome to the site - some great info there for people heading to WA - personally loved the Bungle Bungles and Windjanna Gorge, and Tunnel Creek!!!

Dunmowin · Guru

Magga wrote:
I know the KImberley very well and I have travelled most parts of the GRR several times a year over the last few years (work related) and can offer the following tips.
* always check closer to the time because conditions change quite dramatically depending on rain and traffic.
* definitely avoid GRR unless it is dry.
* if early season travel the depth of Pentecost and Durak rivers can be an issue - particularly the Durak's. The department of main roads has information at the start of the GRR as to which section of the road are open or closed, but that does not necessarily take into account pulling vans through too deep water. I am hearing that as of yesterday GRR was dry and OK - see https://www.mainroads.wa.gov.au/AboutMainRoads/OurRoleRegions/Kimberley/Pages/works-traffic-conditions.aspx
* watch ALL creek crossing on the way - usually sharp dips and possibility of holes under water you cannot see - walking pace only thru those
* some dips are OK for a car but might need slow approach with pulling a van
* they have done major improvements to the road east of El Questro, they have sealed most of the "jump ups" and realigned most of the road at the western end to Imintji.
* it is still corrugated in parts but not bad. just take it easy. if freshly graded, it tempts too many people to drive too fast and there have been many rollovers and fatalities. DO NOT speed.

Other than that, with the usual precautions - lowered tyre pressure, sensible driving and taking it easy - it's fine for an off road van.

Only fuel is at ElQuestro, Mt Barnett (both diesel and unleaded) and Imintji (only diesel).
Only basic food supplies at Mt Barnett and Imintji.

Forget taking van into the Bungle. DEC (Department of Environment and Conservation) do not allow vans in Purnululu NP - not yet anyway. For trailers no problem at all. If you wanted to go Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) NP - which I would highly recommend - I suggest parking van (secure) just inside the gates at the beginning of the track where there is a new caravan park (fairly basic but OK). The alternative would be Warmun (Turkey Creek). There is also a free camp just off the highway, just west of the turn off to Purnululu but security would be an issue with vans left there unattended.
Allow 2.5 hrs to cover the 53Km. The road is not bad but just slow as it is very winding and there are a lot of creek crossings - mainly dry.

The ultimate would be to stay overnight at APT's Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge and have two days in the park.
If you are short of time, there are scenic flights from Kununurra, and also "fly-drive" (flight and ground touring) day or two/three day trips. Flying and ground touring is exponentially better than the basic scenic flight and definitely worth the extra money.

Just DO NOT leave the Kimberley without seeing the Bungle Bungle. It is a 7+ star destination.
Windjana Gorge is a must too and there is good basic camping there and road is fine (watch creeks and dips)

El Questro camp site is great, and there is a great camp site at Home Valley Station too. Good camp site by the river at APT's Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge too (only 20 sites or so but great facilities).

Hope this helps

Happy travel

Magga, welcome, and thank you so much for all this information. I am going to print it out and place it my Camps Book at the appropriate page. Not doing GRR now until next year, so still gathering info.