An AGM battery *is* a lead acid... But It's not a flooded lead acid (FLA), and the two have slightly different voltage characteristics...
We need to figure out if your controller is able to (properly) handle AGM specifically. Do you happen to have a model number? At worst, just a pic so we might be able to figure out what it is?
The battery is R/S so I was going to change to a 100 A/H AGM as I was of the understanding that for this purpose it would be better. (Previous battery was LA 100 AH)
Using around a 150 Watt panel and a middle of the range controller (thus my previous post).
We don't do much free camping and when we have we've used a small Genny to top up the batteries, something I want to get away from.
The reason the battery is RS after a couple of years is that we have moved to a retirement village where the vans are parked remote from power etc., thus the "careless maintenance" on my part. Previously it was parked outside our house with 240 available all the time.
Keith.
-- Edited by Sparkster on Friday 26th of February 2016 09:33:20 AM
I have used AGM batteries in my MH and think they are good and good value. But the controllers just treat them as "sealed" type. Actually they are a bit more tolerant of "misuse" than the other common types I think so also a good feature. Much lower internal resistance so they charge more easily and discharge more easily. Lower losses really.
From the Tracer Manual the difference is only in the (bulk) boost voltage settings. Gel 14.2V, Sealed 14.4V, LA 14.6V. All other settings are the same voltage, and Gel gets no equalisation charge.
Of course the solar panel will fix the parked problem !
Just be careful,some cheaper controllers will allow 17-19 volts to your battery which will eventually kill it .Get a good quality controller thar will feed no more than 14 volts to the battery.i