Grey water tanks, the wife and my self have been talking ( this alone can get me into trouble ) and it's time to clean the water tanks. Our caravan has two tanks and both will need doing. Have heard that bleach or bi carb soda and even vinigar can be used but the last time we cleaned the tanks out, we had the tast of the bleach in the water and took a few ( read a lot ) of flushing of the tanks before the tast left the water.
Our caravan is now only 3 years old and was bought new !!! so want to look after it. The van has only ever been filled with a water graded hose and also town water. The problem is we only use the caravan spasmoticly through out the year and could sit for 6 months between uses.
So what does one use that is easy to use and doesn't leave a cemical tast behind.
Personally I use "Milton" the cleaner for Baby's feeding bottles and teats.
I empty a whole bottle into the tank and fill with water. I then drive around for a few K's and then drain. Re-fill and it's all good. Very little after taste and the makers say it's safe. I don't notice any after taste myself, and I also treat the water with PureMagic water treatment. This stuff is Colloidal Silver and is a recommended water treatment. "Doesn't give you enough silver to become Papa Smurf".
We always add chlorine to the tanks, then filter via 1um active carbon before the drinking water tap, which removes it all.
Chlorine (sodium hypochlorate) can be added as bleach (usually about 6% free chlorine) but be sure that it has no colour or scent or anything else added. Usually the cheapest is the best.
We use liquid swimming pool chlorine (12% free chlorine).
Every now and then I add chlorine drive around the block . Then water the lawn .. About 1/4 full . I top it up with fresh water. When I first bought it I added bicarbonate of soda on second fill ., As there was a sour water tast originally . Never had issues since .. I see they use Percarbonate to clean beer lines ? But I save that for the black / grey water ..
There are many different forms of Chlorine to treat water and clean tanks. Swimming pools use dry calcium hypochlorite powder (leaves calcium behind) or cyanuric acid tablets(slow release but produces organo chlorine by-products) or liquid pool chlorine or bleach (sodium hypochlorite mixed with sodium hydroxide) Miltons is sodium hypochlorite but with added sodium chloride instead of sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) for obvious reasons. All these products when dissolved in water in an alkaline solution produce hypochlorous acid which kills the bacteria and molds. This is why the pH of pools needs to be controlled to keep the available chlorine levels up.
A newer form of chlorine is now available (this is used in large purification plants) it is called Chlorine dioxide this does not require pH adjustment to produce chlorine in solution and has more available chlorine when mixed with water than most other products. When I was a Camec the other day I saw they were selling this in tablet form (Clean-Oxide) one tablet to 200 lt water.
I have only just done my tanks with their powder tank cleaner, two washes and the no chlorine left (I used the "Best" cartridge for the last fill as Sydney water is chlorinated) so haven't tried Clean-oxide yet.
As mentioned bicarb will help remove some taint from tanks and if a lot of hard water (bore water) has been used you may also need to clean with a de-limer. (these are usually contain citric or lactic acid (compounds that remove metals by forming complexes) and acids such as hydrochloric or acetic (vinegar).
**warning Acid should never be used till all chlorine has been removed from the tanks else chlorine gas will be emitted)
Probably the best option is never to use bore water or use an ion exchanger or reverse osmosis unit to clean-up water before filling tanks. (I carry a few collapsible 20lt containers in the van shower recess in case I need to collect water of uncertain quality for washing etc.
Also consider the material of manufacture (stainless steel versus plastic)
Last tip I was given was leave tanks full (no air no growth) and drain hot water tank when not in use to reduce corrosion of anode. I leave the 240 volt switch off by default on the hot water system in case I forget to open the vent on the hot water heater and fill before use.
Hope this provides some tips on tank care and feeding!
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Brian & Nada retired and > "Ready to live the Dream" Live in the Shire!
76 series V8 Landcrab with Jayco Starcraft Outback Poptop
From any good camping or caravan shop you can buy a bottle of Bio-Magic for sterilising water tanks.
It gives instructions on the right amount to use, and includes testing sticks for testing it at the tap, a bottle lasts for ages, you only use a tiny amount, and it really refreshes the taste of the water.
It's based on colloidal silver and hydrogen peroxide, a safe and healthy concoction when used correctly, much better than chlorine. (Yuk!) Costs about 50 bucks a bottle, or less.
I believe it is best to drain the tanks when the van will be sitting idle for a few months.
You can also purchase an inline filter from B.E.S.T. water filters, which also uses silver technology, it connects to the water inlet on the van and is good for when connected to caravan park water, or when filling the tanks. Always ensures safe non smelly water at the sink. They cost about a 100 bucks but last for a few years.
Bevan
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Bevan
Friendship is not a relationship with someone whom you've known for a long time, but with someone you trust, under any circumstances.
What have you been putting in your tanks? Those of us who only put potable water into our tanks do not use chemicals. All I do is drain my tank during the last last meal or morning tea stop on the way home. I leave the plug out (you will not empty a tank unless you drive for a whole with the plug out.) I then reinsert the plug and fill the tank when I get home.
I am one of the majority who believe that storing the van with full tank gives the least possibility of anything growing in the tank.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
What have you been putting in your tanks? Those of us who only put potable water into our tanks do not use chemicals. All I do is drain my tank during the last last meal or morning tea stop on the way home. I leave the plug out (you will not empty a tank unless you drive for a whole with the plug out.) I then reinsert the plug and fill the tank when I get home.
I am one of the majority who believe that storing the van with full tank gives the least possibility of anything growing in the tank.
I agree with this above.
Having worked in the food processing industry and also at sea. Potable water in full tanks could be stored for very long periods and still pass HACCP (Hazard and Contaminant Control Point) tests. If you are filling with Town Supply Scheme type water it probably is already treated with Chlorine or whatever they use now. In the case where tanks and the distribution lines had been drained for a period of time, a full CIP (Clean In Place) process was required before filling again.
I had my water tank removed off the van a couple of years ago to underseal the floor. I just happened to have an Inspection TV Camera from work with me in the truck. I put the flexible camera probe inside the tank for a look at what state it was in. Just clean black poly tank was all I could see. No slime, deposits, or green algae at all just Black Poly Tank. That is after about 11 years of use. I always fill the tank and leave it Tight (full) when stored adding a couple of Milton Tablets to the 70 ! litres of water. Drain and refill before heading out again.
-- Edited by elliemike on Tuesday 1st of March 2016 09:08:33 PM
-- Edited by elliemike on Tuesday 1st of March 2016 09:12:34 PM
If the water tank is accessible for cleaning, then you have to follow the below mentioned steps for cleaning it:-
- Empty the tank. - Scrub or pressure wash the interior walls to remove dirt and grime. - Rinse out the tank - Mix a solution of household bleach and water ( 1 table spoon or 15 ml of bleach for every gallon of water) - Scrub or pressure wash the interior walls or the tank with this solution and thereafter leave it for at least two hours. - After atleast two hours, you have to thoroughly rinse the tank with clean water and thereafter refill with potable water.
There is great need for precaution when using a strong chlorine solution as water holding tank is a confined space and under no circumstances should you enter a confined space, unless there is proper precaution.
-- Edited by peterphilips on Monday 14th of November 2016 07:48:51 PM
For the drinking water tanks, I drained the tanks, and now fill up with the tap water going through a B.E.S.T filter, which is supposed to kill any bacteria as it has silver in it
For the grey water tank, every now and again the wife drops in a bottle of cheap white vinegar, as it was recommended to her by another female traveller
As a side note we either carry enough drinking water from our home, or purchase bottled water, as a bit of gastro, would not be nice, while we were travelling
What have you been putting in your tanks? Those of us who only put potable water into our tanks do not use chemicals. All I do is drain my tank during the last last meal or morning tea stop on the way home. I leave the plug out (you will not empty a tank unless you drive for a whole with the plug out.) I then reinsert the plug and fill the tank when I get home.
I am one of the majority who believe that storing the van with full tank gives the least possibility of anything growing in the tank.
Yep, similar here, use only potable water and keep tanks full whist not in use.