Have a few tech questions for the people in the know...
Considering buying a 2013 Eagle Outback, and curious as to where the roof wires are located as part of the "solar provision" spec? In my previous Coromal poptop, they were located under the eaves of the pop top, but at a quick glance, I couldn't see where they were located on the Eagle Outback. I've done plenty of solar installs before, and know the drill, but easily locating the wiring helps ;) In this case, looking at a 200W semi-flexible panel, as they weigh less than 2kg, AND are currently around $350 on ebay. Add a basic solar regulator, and it's a cheap setup. As backup, I have a soft folding 100W external panel setup to plug into the external Anderson Plug, but I do like keeping the battery topped up whenever I can. Can anyone fill me in on this?
Also, read somewhere the battery doesn't receive direct charge from the vehicle when travelling? Is this the case? Previously, I had separate wiring via secondary Anderson Plug to my dual battery system, so the fridge power went one way, and the 240V battery charger a second line. Then had a diode isolator switch and direct battery wiring to power the fridge from the battery in emergency situations (ie. when filling up and having lunch, etc, for more than a short duration). So, will the battery charge straight from the vehicle when travelling?
Final question ;) Anyone used a 2000W (4000W surge) inverter to power a van microwave from a 100AH deep cycle battery? Yes, I know it's a very high current draw, with an 800W microwave surging to approx double, 1600W) however, we're talking very short durations (2-10 mins max) so should be capable. However, there can be a big difference between whats capable and what works ;) At this point, I'd rather not buy a 2KW generator (not running aircon off-grid yet), and charging the battery isn't an issue, between solar and my 600W genny for top-up. All the van lights, etc are LED presently, so overall draw is minimal.
First off using a inverter off just one 100 Ah battery is a big ask, I would increase your battery size by at least 100 ~ 200 Ah's and increasing the size of the solar on the roof, still keeping the portable folding panel for those cloudy days,
Unless you are staying for a long lunch break I would not worry about running the your house battery ( s) !. change over to gas if you are at all worried.
Charging the batteries while driving ?? a good investment would be a DC to DC charger that would be installed close to your house batteries and this would take into account the voltage drop due to the long cabling from your main battery all the way to the house batteries in the caravan. Well worth the effort and the cost involved.
Again, the 2000W inverter with microwave isn't for general use. Simply for the 2-10 mins required to run a microwave. I would think a 100A battery should be more than capable of running 60A draw for 10 mins max, technically. I was just curious if anyone had done this. If I want to run it fully, or had aircon, I'd buy a 2kw genny, but at this time, it seems unnecessary
In the vehicle, I have the normal car battery, isolated. A 120AH AGM deep cycle, at the back of the tray, in a battery box beneath. A 80AH Thumper behind the back seat, and a 100A deep cycle in the van. Power I have aplenty to run lights, etc, if I partially flatten the 100AH battery in the van using a microwave. Have 100W portable solar, and will likely put a 200W panel on the roof, and a small Genny as emergency backup.
I may put a second battery in with the van battery in the future, but given they're different formats and capacities, I can't just put the Thumper as a second charging van battery, as an example. Would need to update the charging system to handle 2 independent batteries of different type, which is getting complicated and expensive. Most of the inverters I'm looking at have voltage cutouts inbuilt, so if the volts drain too far, the inverter will cut off and protect the battery, so not likely to kill it.
Can't run gas or 240V in a Jayco Eagle-type van without setting up the van in full, popping up the top and extending the beds, as the canvas and bedding sit over the fridge enclosure. I beileve it specifically warns of this in the manual. One of the joys of this type of van. Was much easier in my Coromal poptop.
Have a full caravan dual battery setup in the vehicle, to the rear Anderson plug. 100A wire the entire way. Current resistance isn't a major issue. Always charged previous van's from the car battery while travelling, and I know my Coromal was set up that way. Damn handy at times.
Rocko wrote:1.. Also, read somewhere the battery doesn't receive direct charge from the vehicle when travelling? Is this the case? Previously, I had separate wiring via secondary Anderson Plug to my dual battery system, so the fridge power went one way, and the 240V battery charger a second line. Then had a diode isolator switch and direct battery wiring to power the fridge from the battery in emergency situations (ie. when filling up and having lunch, etc, for more than a short duration).
2.. Final question ;) Anyone used a 2000W (4000W surge) inverter to power a van microwave from a 100AH deep cycle battery? Yes, I know it's a very high current draw, with an 800W microwave surging to approx double, 1600W) however, we're talking very short durations (2-10 mins max) so should be capable. However, there can be a big difference between whats capable and what works ;) At this point, I'd rather not buy a 2KW generator (not running aircon off-grid yet), and charging the battery isn't an issue, between solar and my 600W genny for top-up.
1.. The way you have worded this is extremely confusing. In a standard installation Jayco have had one cable to the van hat feeds both the fridge and the 12 V input line to the Setec power supply. The Setec has a diode in it (not a diode isolator switch) that is in line with the battery charging line. This diode drops the voltage to the battery by around 0.6 V. I have not seen any provision for the battery to run the fridge from the battery at any time (unless someone has fiddled the wiring.)The diode is there to stop the fridge from discharging the battery because absorption fridges should never be run from a battery unless it is being charged by the engine alternator.
There is a 12 V switch in Jayco vans that isolates the battery from the system. When this switch is in the off position it also prevents the battery from being charged.
The hot wire that is commonly wired from the tugs battery to the trailer socket and the wire hat Jayco provide in their vans has too much voltage drop to both run the fridge and charge the battery. The fridge will drop the voltage way down and when you subtract the 0.6 V drop in the diode the battery gets very little charge.
2.. Your microwave will run your inverter to near its maximum capacity. You need roughly twice the rated output power of the oven to dive the oven. If the inverter is running at its maximum capacity it will be drawing around 200 A from your battery. That's a big ask for one battery. most travellers who run a microwave from 12 V generally have 3 or 4 batteries. A few use 2, not many one.
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PeterD Nissan Navara D23 diesel auto, Spaceland pop-top Retired radio and electronics technician. NSW Central Coast.
We have a 2000/4000w Inverter and run a Nespresso Coffee machine (for 2 cups) followed by a 5 min Microwave. Have 2 x 100 batteries, but it never causes any issues.
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Glen
A diesel Nissan Pathfinder towing a Coromal Element 542.
