HiClone and Electronic Rust prevention

Yuglamron · Guru

HiClone and Electronic Rust prevention

macka17 · Guru

I tried a Hi Clone yrs ago.
Luckily he refunded
as they do NOTHING. Just stir the air a little.

Rust prevention.
Best way is LOTS of fish oil in spray packs.
Flooded in every hole you can find.
Any dead ends. Drill a few holes and spray in there.
Then lots of polish (I use CT20)
and instant touch ups of all stone chips.
One of the company's advertises improvements in Salt farms.

I've worked in salt farms with draglines and cranes. (Maint)
They all reckon 3 to 4 yrs max. with any vehicle.
With any treatment or not.

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Save your money on both .

T1 Terry · Guru

A mix 50/50 of http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/performance-chemicals/pyroil/tectyl-506-heavy-duty-rust-preventative and fishoil, then add 10% by volume of diesel when putting it into the fishoil gun. The fishoil with the help of the diesel will saturate any rust present, the Tectyl will form a wax type seal to keep the air out and stop the fishoil from drying out and pealing the paint off, the diesel will make the mix creep into every crevice and actually climb up a panel improving the over all coating protection. Drill drain holes and let the excess drain into a container, it can then be mixed with another 10% diesel by volume and used for the next section, or stored ready for the next job. It really does work, the sections of my bus conversion I treated back in 2000 are still rust free, I certainly know which sections I didn't treat and now I need to cut those bits out yet again.

Some have suggested mixing phosphoric acid with the mix to attack and rust, convert it and then it will be sealed with the other ingredients but I'm unsure about leaving any acid to continue doing what it does.

T1 Terry

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

I've mixed diesel and fish oil . Second coat I used fish oil , Linseed oil and some vasoline . It sets like a wax . The first coat penetrates .,

T1 Terry · Guru

That is the key, stop the fish oil from drying out and pulling the paint off exposing bare metal creating a bigger problem that was there originally. Who knows what goes into making the Valvoline Tectyl, but industry has used it for yrs when protected storage of ferrous metals is required

T1 Terry

Aus-Kiwi · Guru

Yes it really needs spraying approx every ten years .. Moisture trapped in panels, seams or in insulation is the main cause !! I just repaired an old Celica as race car . Caged no rego . All down the left side had rusted out ! Often wandered why one side ? Seems the left side was parked toward beach in carport up NSW coast . What I found with rust repaires is to cut the WHOLE section out and weld a gal or zink coated panel back in . Then paint protecting the welds . Temp easy repaires just DONT work !!

-- Edited by Aus-Kiwi on Tuesday 25th of October 2016 12:50:32 PM

mr glassies · Guru

I have electronic rust inhibitor on my ute had it on my word abd brumby . A m8 got a old surf club buggy a few yrs ago with one on it and the only place it had rust was on the coil over shocks . They were rubber mounted I'm sold . Gold Coast company was banned from a snow state in USA because there cars wernt rusting

Dibs

Warren-Pat_01 · Guru

I had an ERS system on my GQ Patrol - & had no rust problems at all. Surface rust only on scratches but nothing heavy.
I was sceptical at first but it definitely worked.

Fish oil - is one of the definite No-nos!! Fish oil was the anti-rust thing 15 years ago & yes, I used it. Was proven to be a great corrosion cause up here in the tropics! My MQ had quite a bit of rust on areas that had been "treated". Much, much better is Lanolin fluid/spray.

The HiClone - fitted one to my Patrol MQ - pulled it out, put in in a few times & couldn't say it helped as driving conditions changed over the trials. On the GQ, I had a change-over unit (different model) - the fuel consumption definitely improved - especially with the DGA system on the car. So far with the GU, I have fitted the gas injection only. The car had an electronic rust unit (of a brand that is no longer being made) on it when I bought the car but has since given up.
I hope to buy the genuine ERS unit soon.

In my experiences they both work - the Hiclone may be not so well.

Warren

oldtrack123 · Guru

Yuglamron wrote:
I saw recently that the electronic rust protectors have been banned in some States. A bit like Hiclones they are a Furfy.

https://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/announcements/red-light-distributors-car-rust-reduction-devices-ceci-units
This is the WA Govt stance on these rust prevention devices.
Lots Motsa for not a Lotta benefit.

You can pump electricity through some iron/steel wire all day long and spray it with salt water and it will still rust. More snake oil gadgets/ Be it very expensive ones

-- Edited by Yuglamron on Sunday 23rd of October 2016 03:16:28 PM

DITTO

Even their demos are a con

Especially the one with the parts in a spray tank of salt water

Anyone with real experience in cathodic protections will see through that trick

Of course ,IF your car is submerged or always wet, it could have some localised effects. biggrin

mr glassies · Guru

Well I old track maybe I should have taken pictures of this as I do know about some things I talk about . On my brumby I installed a era and were the drill swarf laid in a section of my ute they never went rusty till the took out the batterie . But then again it might have been because I had lithium batteries hahahahahahahahahahah lmdo.

Dibs

hako · Guru

My Ford Territory has had a ERS fitted since new and despite never being garaged with sun, rain etc and it still has not a spot of rust even in the known Territory rust trap spots.
Despite this I figure they probably are snake oil and it's only by chance that my car came with one fitted.....but I still cannot figure why I have no rust.

Good Luck.

ronsat · Newbie

Hi Dibs,

I had a CouplerTec 4WD unit on a Suzuki Grand Vitara for a couple of years until an accident (not my fault) wrote the vehicle off.

I then got an Isuzu Mux and fitted the unit to it.

It gave up the ghost within a year or so and when I contacted Couplertec they offered me another new ERP for about $450 (IIRC) trading in the faulty one.

The original one cost me $695!

I have enclosed photos of the ERP after I got the electronics out of the case after carefully chipping away the resin that encapsulated the printed circuit board.

Now I understand the reason it's covered by resin- hardly $20 worth of electronics!

Regards,

Ron