Hi all. Just returned from a two week free camp trip. Small problem. I know the 12v fridge position is not very efficient, when I arrive at destination and fridge may be around 6c , switch to gas and it continues to climb. Sometimes as high as 12c before starting to fall. I have tried setting on everything from 2 to maximum with no change. Any answers for me ? Do these fridges need servicing ? Yes it was level and the van obviously warm inside. I have an outside shade and a fan at the back of the fridge. Cheers in advance. Col P
Hi.
Haven't had those things for a while.
But from memory the gas ain't too good either. if venting not smack on.
If temp's quite warm, inside and our of fridge.
The gas could take that long to get up to working b4 dropping temp's.
Does it continue dropping to what you want, after that initial rise?
Most here will tell you.
To change to a 12\24\240 unit.
I've got a 3way in this van. but primary unit is 80Ltr Waeco in back of ute.
Maybe a second hand unit somebody updating?. they often for sale if finances allow.
Hi Colin. It would have helped if you had mentioned how big the fridge is and how old the fridge and van are. It sounds to me as though you have a heat dissipation and fridge insulation problem. The sides and top of your fridge should be well insulated with foam or other insulating material and there should be a good flow of air from bottom to above the fridge at the rear. Some people install a 12v fan to either suck the hot air up past the condenser pipes or blow air up from the bottom.Usually the former is the preferred way. Give some thought to your problem and perhaps these few hints may improve the situation. Heat around the cabinet and insufficient circulation of air at the rear of the fridge are more often than not the cause of cooling problems if of course your fridge is in good condition.
He has a fan at the back of the fridge already, might pay to check if the fan is creating the air flow required, drawing air in and back out or is it just forcing hot air around the fridge.
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VAN December 2019 Goldstar 21ft
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Life Was Ment To Be Easy If You Have The Ability To Adapt
.... Do these fridges need servicing ? ......and a fan at the back of the fridge. ...
Yes, the gas flue should be disassembled and de-carboned/de-rusted every year or so.
Is the fan of sufficient size (90mm or bigger) and is it mounted to the top vent as an extractor fan or is it just blowing warm air around inside the cavity.
I used 3 x 120mm computer case fans and a thermos switch designed for pipes.
Two of the big problems with fridge cooling is one the gap between the cooling fins and the wall of the van. If the gap is to wide say greater than 25mm then the cooler air from the bottom vent will take the path of least resistance and flow up between the fins and the van wall, installing fans makes almost no difference. I made up a false wall to reduce the gap from 100mm to 25mm and the difference was amazing even on very hot days. The second problem when on 12 volt is the size of the wire to the fridge. I have done both mods and even on a hot day I can travel for 4 hours and the temp remains the same.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Update : Don't know the size, standard small under bench fridge. It is 14 years old But has had very little use up to the past 4 years. When it reaches peak heat it does drop slowly to minimum on gas. The fan at the back works well. Hot air escapes easily out of the top vent. Maybe I will look at upping the 12v wire and installing batts in the walls and top. How is the gas flue taken apart ? I bet that has never been cleaned !!! Thanks again for help so far, much appreciated as you all know the price of a new fridge. Col P
This is how I have overcome the problem with our 90ltr Dometic over heating (a lot). Firstly I installed 2 x 80mm fans on the bottom vent sucking in air and 1 x 120mm fan in the top vent withdrawing air as well as a outside shade over the vents and packed more insulation around the fridge with batts and all done from the outside, this all made a considerable difference but not enough for my liking. Over the last week I looked into the installation and found that the gap between the wall and the condensor was 70mm when it should have been about 25mm (bad installation) not wanting to pull the fridge out I used some light composite ally we use in the sign industry and made an angle to fill the gap, this was lowered in and siliconed to the wall at the bottom of the condenser the theory being that the air from the fans would be sucked over the condenser. For the last 2 days I have had the fridge going with the setting on 4 in 30° + no fans on and no fridge shade the side of the van in the sun and the temp has not gone over 2.8° previously unheard of, Before the baffal it would probably gone to 5 or 6 and when I travelled to Cooktown higher again, just as well we had and Engle in the back of the car. With expected temps of 34° today and 36° tomorrow in Victoria I will see how it goes. In 2 days I will post back and report how it all goes, fingers crossed the problem will be solved.
-- Edited by Jaybird on Saturday 7th of January 2017 11:46:44 AM
I found a fan with cover or cowling to direct air rather than just fan works better . Plus a solar extractor fan on top vent .. The usually work well on gas . Maybe the change over time is changing temps ? 3 ways don't recover as fast as compressor ..
It seems to be the nature of the beast that 3 way fridges struggle when the temperature exceeds around 25 degrees. We had ours serviced & a heat extraction fan installed last year.
It cost us an arm & a leg with very little in the way of improved performance. Ours works well on 240V & 12V while on the move.
Lately we've taken to setting up camp in a direction that avoids the afternoon sun from shining on the outside wall adjacent to the fridge. eg. Not facing west.
We also tried different temperature settings which made no difference at all. Good luck!
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Hylife can you explain where you use the switch and how to wire the fans in. Do the fans run full time or does the switch shut them off. Diagram would be nice even if all done in a new thread.
Ok have found the thread on installing cooling fans in fridge enclosure and will post there
-- Edited by CC Bear on Saturday 7th of January 2017 09:12:03 PM
-- Edited by CC Bear on Saturday 7th of January 2017 09:26:08 PM
-- Edited by CC Bear on Saturday 7th of January 2017 09:35:04 PM
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Our Rig
VAN December 2019 Goldstar 21ft
TUG 2017 Ford Ranger Wildtrak
Life Was Ment To Be Easy If You Have The Ability To Adapt
Hylife can you explain where you use the switch and how to wire the fans in. Do the fans run full time or does the switch shut them off. Diagram would be nice even if all done in a new thread.
There is already a 12v supply at the rear of the fridge for when you run on 12v of course.
Rather than have the fridge get its supply from the tug I used 6mm wire to the deep cycle van house battery, this way the 12V supply is always available regardless of which of the 3ways it is running on.
The thermos switch is designed for pipes with a curved face and retaining clip and they are avail in different temp ratings on the Senasys web site.
Using a cheapo temp gun from SCA I measured the pipework temps whilst running on a 30 degree day and ordered the switch on that basis.
On my old fridge the correct temperature for the switch I ordered determined the location. The switch clamps to the pipework that runs along the top, after the chimney just before the evaporator fins on the left.
My tap into the positive rail 12V at the bottom of the fridge (that goes to a small terminal strip for the 3 way switch mechanism) goes to the thermo switch and then to the fans.
If the pipework temp rises over the specified level, the fans automatically come on, and turn off when things cool down (usually but not always over night).
Sorry for just jumping in like this. I have been following the discussion regarding a number of issues with 3way fridges.
I wonder if someone could put me right. My fridge is a Dometic RM2350. The fridge just does not seem to work at all on 12Volts
When I put a volt meter on the block connector behind the fridge, which supplies 12volt power to the fridge, with the fridge switched off I get a reading of 12.7Volts and when I change the meter to Ohms I get an open circuit reading which should be right as the switch is open.
However when I switch the fridge on to 12Volt I get a Zero volt reading(no power)and a closed circuit reading indicating the 12volt element should be serviceable with no fault.
Any light on this would be greatly appreciated.
My apologies for any inconvenience I may have caused.
Welcome to the forum rob from what I have found out most 12 v works off the tug when driving so ignition must be on. This way your fridge is just kept cool. So first is your fridge wired through the car plug or is it wired from your van battery?
Someone else will be on for sure and help you further, in the mean time use the search function and see if you can find more information. Cheerd
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Our Rig
VAN December 2019 Goldstar 21ft
TUG 2017 Ford Ranger Wildtrak
Life Was Ment To Be Easy If You Have The Ability To Adapt
Thanks for the reply. Much obliged. Currently the fridge is wired to the caravan battery which is being continuously charged through the 240V power supply. The battery voltage reading on a fixed volt meter inside the caravan reads 13.3 to 13.7 volts continuously. Power to the fridge at the block connector behind the fridge is 12.7Volts. Must be a volt drop in the wiring of around 0.5 to 1.0 volts.
I do have an Anderson plug connection from vehicle to caravan and will see what that gives. I will do a test and post it here.
Just one question please. Does a continuity reading on the multimeter confirm that the heater element is serviceable?
Can ot answer that last question but your volt meter inside, usb ports and loss through connections all lose some power. Turn your battery charger of and give it a couple of minutes and then check the reading on your inside volt meter. I find when on charge the reading is always high.
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Our Rig
VAN December 2019 Goldstar 21ft
TUG 2017 Ford Ranger Wildtrak
Life Was Ment To Be Easy If You Have The Ability To Adapt
Thanks Mutley. Do you have a dedicated battery just for the fridge or are you using the Caravan battery?
I have the fridge connected to the Caravan Battery and shows 12.7 volts at the block connector but no cooling.
When I put a volt meter on the block connector behind the fridge, which supplies 12volt power to the fridge, with the fridge switched off I get a reading of 12.7Volts and when I change the meter to Ohms I get an open circuit reading which should be right as the switch is open.
However when I switch the fridge on to 12Volt I get a Zero volt reading(no power)and a closed circuit reading indicating the 12volt element should be serviceable with no fault.
Maybe I am doing something wrong regarding the multimeter?? and getting the wrong result?
Right folks I have it sorted. My Auto Sparkie has run a new wire with a 50Amp fuse included from the fuse box directly to the block connector behind the fridge. It now works like a dream. Still operates through the switch on the front of the fridge as before.
Thanks for all the positive communication. My first experience on this site has been all good.
